Tag Heuer Caliber S Manual

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Leronne Washington

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Aug 3, 2024, 6:05:08 PM8/3/24
to melreibioje

I restore many vintage chronographs. While there are some unique approaches in the different brands there is a common approach and lubrication is just common sense now. I am going to service a Heuer cal 12 and I could "guess" at the lubrication of this very unique chrono I would be thrilled to have a lubrication chart from a service manual if it exists.

I think the base caliber for the Tag Hour Caliber 12 is an ETA 2892A2 so for the movement side you could just use that one.
But then the chronograph part use to be a 8510 and it isn't any special with that either, chronographs usually isn't that hard to lubricate, just in case your calibre 12 also has this module i can paste the lubrication procedure.

I have a confusion found some links below no lubrication guides no service manuals and one of them appears to be different than the rest? As far as lubrication goes just find a modern chronograph and follow those suggestions.

The base movement was a Buren/Hamilton, and the rest was a mix of Hamilton, Breitling, Heuer, and Dubois Depraz doing the module. There's a good write up on the history at Hodinkee -heuer-breitling-hamilton-50th-anniversary

Interestingly in some service literature I've seen they recommend cleaning the module assembled. Since these are all 40 something years old it's best to ignore that and disassemble for cleaning. There are a couple of thin springs in the winding system that really like to disappear. The rotor assembly is not meant to be taken apart, and it's tricky getting oil in to the axle but very important. The click for the auto reversers has a long fragile spring that needs to be carefully managed. Overall it's down on my list of movements I like; I think it was a case of "too many cooks"- but they do work well.

I was a bit tired when writing yesterday night and I see it is a bit unclear, a lesson learned, never sleep and write.

Yes there are two different versions of what sometimes is called Calibre 12 one vintage and one modern.
The vintage (which I assume this adress based on the title) is called Chronomatic Calibre 12 and are using the chronograph module shown above 8510. The lower picture is the lubrication scheme from its Tech manual using as usual just two lubricants, Synth-a-lube (Moebius 9010) and Bergeon KT22 (Grease).
This one you can see serviced in three links from @JohnR725 Watch Bloke, Watch Guy and Ranfft and i think described by @nickelsilver

The they made a modern version based on the 2892A2 which is using a Dubois-Depraz 2008 Chronograph module.
For this one I have no lubrication shematics.
This is the link shown to watchbase.com.

this is why it's helpful if the original poster would always post a photo of the watch movement they're asking about. It's not the only time we've had confusions because people either ask the egg questions without showing us the watch or hear where we have more than one watch.

then finding technical information from that seems to be nearly impossible but I vaguely recall I once found something I just can't remember why or where. They probably be helpful if we knew all the places the module has found itself attached to because that might reveal a data sheet for that watch as opposed to I don't think they give out anything other then look we make nifty modules.

as were just looking for generic guide we find out which Omega watches have a module. The module should be more or less similar I would suggest of someone's taking a module apart take lots and lots of pictures take too many pictures.

Thank you everyone for the wealth of information. I am good to go. I didn't provide a photo of the watch because I didn't have it in my shop yet and I didn't know there was a modern version.
Thanks again!!!

Today we'll discuss the differences between automatic watches and hand-wound watches, also known as manual-wind watches. We'll also give you some insight on how you would use each of these as well as how these different types of watches work so that you'll appreciate these differences.

All mechanical watches are powered by a tightly wound spring inside the watch. This spring is known as the mainspring. All mechanical watches require winding in order for them to work. The winding is typically done using the crown (a knob usually on the side of a watch case) or a winding key is some cases.

The mainspring is a tightly wound spring inside the watch that holds a certain amount of tension similar to that of a tape measure. Through a series of gears, components, and screws, this tension is incrementally released. As tension is released, the energy generated from this release of this tension is transferred to other mechanical components. These components are called the gear train and escapement which essentially powers the watch and keeps everything moving. The rotor keeps the mainspring tightly wound to allow a steady flow of energy in the caliber (the mechanical movement).

Automatic watches require less of you in order to use them daily. An automatic watch (also known as a self-winding watch) allows you to use your mechanical watch without having to wind it each day. There are times though when you would have to wind an automatic watch but that is a topic for another time.

Manual wind watches are not self-winding like an automatic watch and therefore require that you wind them by hand or sometimes with a special tool in order for the watch to operate. Similar to the manual transmission where you need to be more hands-on to use it.

There was a time in history where every watch was a hand-wound watch and over the many years watchmaking evolved. Automatic watches, also known as self-winding watches were first conceived with the invention of the rotor and at the time, an automatic watch was called "perptuel" (French for perpetual).

On self-winding (automatic) watches, a rotor is attached to the watches movement so that when you move your wrist, the rotor spins and winds the watch back up again by tightening the mainspring. A hand-wound watch has no rotor and therefore needs to be wound by hand in order for it to work.

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