Xtool M1 Working Area

[Lorin Searing]

Yourwork space is larger than the actual work area of the machine. The XTool D1 Pro with 20W laser has a working area of 430 x 390mm (16.93 x 15.35 inches), and you can only realistically hit that by disabling the limit switches.

IIRC, Xtool prevents you from changing the GRBL parameters directly, the way everybody else does, and requires going through XCS to manipulate (a subset of?) the configuration values. Is that how it works?

Recently, the laser company xTool began shipping their F1 machine. I was fortunate enough to receive one from them and did an initial impressions review here. They are now providing a great accessory, the xTool F1 Slide Extension ($199) and it is available now for purchase.

The F1 is a galvo laser, which is fast, but galvo lasers generally have a very small working area. Because galvo lasers have a mirror system which directs the laser beam and the lens is fixed focal length, the further the beam gets from the lens, the more out of focus it becomes. So that keeps the working area fairly small.

After looking at photos of this Slide Extension and then seeing the delivered box on my porch I went to pick it up and was shocked to find that it was way heavier than I expected. Lifting it out of the box I realized this is no cheaply made gadget. This thing has some heft to it. Installation is super easy and you will need their XCS software to calibrate the slide extension. I found an excellent installation video featuring my favorite xTool presenter, Twiggy. Her product knowledge and enthusiasm is a gigantic plus!

Just as the F1 laser is intuitive, so is the xTool F1 Slide Extension. I took one look at this thing, scratched my head, and realized it would be a breeze to make a business card template. I managed to fit 6 cards into the working area. XCS software and their Grid Array tool made it super simple.

One thing I want to note is that your template perimeter needs to start at X0, Y0. Then when you go to actually engrave the item make sure that the upper left hand corner of your template is set to X0, Y0 on the actual bed of the machine.

Subsequently, my greater point here is that making a template is EASY. Just design it to align at X0, Y0 coordinates and when you fill in the middle with your text or photos, it will engrave right where you told it to.

I would recommend that you start by making some material test cards. XCS software allows you to make these easy-to-use templates using the grid array function. This is ideal way to determine the optimal settings needed on the materials you plan to use. This will help you avoid wasting materials and save costs.

The xTool P2 riser can be installed to allow for a movable floor, also known as the base plate. This feature is particularly useful when working with taller materials and is perfect for engraving. The front door of the riser base flips down, making it easy to slide the base into any of the nine positions available. This allows you to engrave on larger materials, such as wooden boxes, suitcases, and large wooden bowls, among others.

In my opinion, having a honeycomb is essential if you plan on cutting small items with a laser cutter. It serves to protect your work surface from accidental burning and also ensures that your material stays level and stable during the cutting process.

I have experienced a few instances where my acrylic projects were ruined because the cut piece started to fall out between the slats but got stuck. When the laser moved over the area again, it hit the protruding piece which caused my project to move and ultimately destroyed it. The honeycomb does require regular cleaning which can be a pain in the butt. The honeycomb also comes with magnets to keep your materials in place which is very useful.

This attachment is a versatile tool that can be configured and set up in multiple ways to help you engrave on various objects. The most popular being coffee cups, balls, travel mugs, glasses, and more. It is an essential tool if you plan to engrave around the whole surface area of an item.

When I initially agreed to review this machine, I intended to keep it in my craft room with the exhaust pipe directed out the window. However, upon arrival, I realized that the machine was larger than I had anticipated. Consequently, I had to place it outside in my workshop. I found an adjustable bed on marketplace which worked perfectly. I can now move the machine around with ease when not in use.

The problem I encountered outside was that I had no window in my workshop, so I just directed the exhaust pipe outside the door. Unfortunately, when a gust of wind came along, all the smoke blew back into my workshop.

To solve this issue, we had to put a hole in the wall on the side of the shed for the vent pipe. This allowed me to close the doors to stop the smoke coming back inside which worked perfectly. You still get the smell of the burnt wood/acrylic but not the fumes. For this reason, I would definitely use and air purifier if I was using this machine inside my home.

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My Name is Anita HollandI am a self taught DIY and Craft fanatic, building all my projects from mainly recycled materials. I love finding furniture fit for the landfill and giving it new life. Upcycling, repurposing and recycling are my main focus, which keeps my hobby cheap. Because most of my materials are free, this seems to give me the confidence to try bigger and better projects each time. My goal is trying to come up with projects you don't see everyday. I hope you enjoy browsing my projects.

Are you debating between getting a diode or a CO2 laser cutter for your hobby or small business? Both types of machines can cut and engrave similar materials, such as wood, colored acrylic, and tumblers. So which one is right for you?

A diode laser cutter is great for crafting small items, such as this propagation station or this dice box. I made both of these projects (and many more!) with my xTool M1, which has both a 10W diode laser and a cutting blade. I've been having a ton of fun with it!

However, there are a few drawbacks to diode laser cutters. It struggles with thicker materials, and can't cut clear, white or blue acrylic. They're also much slower, especially when engraving. That little box took almost two hours to engrave and cut!

So I was thrilled when xTool reached out again and asked if I wanted to try out their new P2 CO2 laser! While xTool provided this machine to me for free, I was not paid to write this review. I'll share my genuine experience using this tool for the first time, and any hiccups that occurred along the way.

I knew this machine was heavy, but I wasn't quite prepared for how difficult it would be to get up our narrow staircase to the second floor. The box was almost the same width as the stairs! We had to slide it up rather than carrying it. It's definitely a two person job!

After a few months, I decided to go all in on the tech craft machines and converted our backyard shed into a maker space! Now I have plenty of room for both lasers, plus a 3d printer, sublimation printer and heat press!

CO2 lasers require a mixture of distilled water and antifreeze to keep the machine cool. The antifreeze prevents the glass tube from shattering if the temperatures drop below freezing in your house or workshop.

xTool provides the antifreeze, a funnel and a handy chart to determine how much to add. Make sure to use distilled water, which you can buy at the grocery store. I marked a measuring cup with the ratios required for my climate.

The laser bounces off three mirrors to change the direction of the beam from the back of the machine to your work piece. To get the best results, you'll need to test the beam's position and adjust the mirror if necessary.

Cutting and engraving on a laser can create a lot of smoke and fumes. The best way to prevent your house from smelling like a campfire is to vent it outside through a window or door. If you don't have outside access, you can also hook it up to an air purifier.

The exhaust vent that comes with the P2 was a little too short to reach our window. I had the same issue with the M1, but it was light enough to wheel the stand closer. The casters barely move under the weight of the new machine!

I had some 4" hose left over from my dust collector in the workshop, but the fan exhaust only has a 3" opening. I connected the two different sizes with this adapter so it could reach the window. The casement window air conditioner seal keeps it in place, while also preventing rain from dripping into the room while I'm using the machine.

After downloading the xTool Creative Space software, you'll need to connect your computer with the provided USB cable. After the initial set up, you can connect over Wifi, although I'm still having issues connecting it this way. I prefer to plug it in when I'm using it so I don't lose signal to the machine.

You can also use Lightburn with the P2, although you'll lose some functionality such as curved surface engraving. I recently downloaded Lightburn just to play around with it, and it definitely has a steeper learning curve than xTool Creative Space!

I spent a week creating a bunch of projects with the new machine, which I'll share in future tutorials. Now that I've used both the P2 and the M1 extensively, I've gotten a good feel for where each one shines. Let's take a look at some of these features in more detail.

The xTool P2 has a working area of 23.6"12", versus the 15"x12" of the xTool M1. The bed is even larger, with adjustable slats that fit into grooves in the front and back. You can move the slats around to prevent smaller pieces from falling through, and there's an optional honeycomb panel for really tiny cuts.

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