Re: Best Settings For Gta 5 Pc
Roseanne Devon
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Looking for best settings for timelaps to make a smoother video without taxing the Pi too much.
FPS is 25 and minimum interval is 5.. set to trigger on Z change , what changes would give me a longer smoother video?
What would be nice would be a version of the timelapse video settings which would take a photo in exactly the same X/Y position each frame so that you just see the part building rather than the hectic nature of the extruder assembly itself.
The z change does do that on cylinders if you have the start postilion set to a specific spot.. (S3d option) Come to think of it, the reason I am asking this is I have had that set to optimize for faster print lately and didn't realize until now that is probably why the last few videos have been so crazy! Will try timed and see how that looks. Thanks!
Norm! Hey what settings are you using? I installed and guessed at it.. got a 10 hour print starting.. will the original tab for time laps still make a video even with the plugin running? Or does the plugin supersede the default timelaps? Heading to google to see if there is a dock on that plugin
But the issue is the game appears to become unbalanced in the final stage industrial or contemporary when either I or an AI just start to run away with everything and results in flight in 1600 AD or getting the warning the that someone has hit final era by turn 170...
I think the explosive snowballing is hard baked into the game, but one setting I have found that helps is turning the new world off. While it's fun to have that element of discovery, the opportunity it provides for who ever gets there first (usually the human player) to intensify their snowballing is too great.
I am happy someone made this thread. I have also been wondering what people play on.
First of all for Speed i have found out normal to be the best one, i have experimented with the other speeds and normal seems the best.
I always play on Huge with max competitors. I play on 3 Continents usually, but with only 30% Land. I find this is the best since it drives conflict, since there is little Land to compete for and makes games less boring. Also when playing on Low land percentage, territories seem richer and generally there are very few territories without any resources in them.
For other Map Setting i always play on Wet Climate(more forests is great) Many Rivers and Steep Elevation. There a lot of bonuses in the game relating to rivers and mountains, so like to give them more chances to spawn. Also you will still have many territories without any mountains or river even with max Settings.
I put Ridges and Cliff to Few, because i find them annoying and Lakes to Few but Big, since Lakes don't seem that useful.
Regarding pacing, I really recommend you try the configuration mod, which increases the amount of stars necessary to progress per era. Combined with slow difficulty it makes each era more fleshed out, and it makes it more unlikely for any empire to rocket through an era.
Ok thanks for the advice. I have started a game on the slow rather than normal and will see how I get on. Hoping it that it allows a bit more play in later years. I played through the Neolithic and it took a few more turns for sure but I actually preferred it. So far so good.
So my current favourite is to take off the 300 turn time leave the other victory conditions on. I play on a large map with 2 continents and no new world with a total of 7 AI. I actually find the game works quite well and you get a challenge and in all eras. Yes I still feel that as I reach the end era I am able to start researching techs in two turns which is a bit fast but some of that is my fault as I do like to swap to a French/Japanese culture at one point to help boost at one point. Game are usually over by 350 ish turns I have won by completing all tech, space and just collecting all the era stars.
Good to hear, I was about to try something similar. One question: how interesting is the naval aspect of the game? I suppose 2 continents or more requires to fight for naval superiority and naval bombardment. How well does it work?
Sometimes I use random number of continents to spice things up. I also use random settings for everything else like islands, lakes, world temperature, etc. The only thing I don't randomize is new world and strategic/luxury resource levels.
I'm using an EOS RP with either an RF24-105 mm F4-7.1 IS STM or RF100-400 mm F5.6-8 IS USM lens (depending on where I can plant myself on the sidelines/courtside). Right now I'm shooting basketball games indoors with decent lighting. My current settings are sports mode and auto focus. With 10 players running on the court, I'm finding it difficult to get a crisp image of the player I had in focus. I'd love a general cheat sheet of settings I can adjust to get sharper images. Thank you!
There aren't any settings that will work 100% in every situation. The best settings to use will vary depending on things like light levels at the location and the type of shot you are looking for. Sports photography is also a broad enough subject that we wouldn't be able to go over everything that could apply in one forum post. There are some general things to keep in mind and we do have helpful learning articles that can help get you started on your sports photography journey.
Sport mode on the camera is a good place to start out. In that mode the camera is in control of most of the settings and you do not have much room to make adjustments in that mode. If you want to start making adjustments to improve your photos you would need to look at using a mode like P, Tv, Av, or M. Sports photographers most commonly use either Tv or M mode. In P mode the camera controls the aperture and shutter speed. In Tv mode you control the shutter speed and the camera controls the aperture. In Av mode you control the aperture and the camera controls the shutter speed. In M mode you are in control of both the aperture and shutter speed.
The shutter speed can help with motion blur. The faster the shutter speed the less motion blur you will see. The trade off is that the faster the shutter speed the less time the camera sensor has to gather light, so in lower light conditions that can cause under exposed photos.
Aperture can help with your depth of field. That is how wide of an area is in focus. Smaller aperture values means the iris in the lens is more open, and that will give you a more shallow depth of field. That would have your subject in focus and the background blurred. Higher aperture values means the iris in the lens is more closed, and that will give you a wider depth of field. That would have your subject and more of the area around them in focus. Like with shutter speed the trade off is that the more closed the aperture is the less light gets to the sensor, so higher aperture values can cause under exposed photos.
Another thing to look at would be to have your AF Operation set to Servo. With that set once you start having the camera focus it will continually adjust the focus to match your subject as they move closer or further away from the camera. Since there is typically a lot of movement in sports it can help with focusing.
We have additional helpful learning articles that go over different types of photography and ways to shoot it HERE. We also have a helpful guide going over the different settings like shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and others HERE. If you would like to view the full manual for your EOS RP it is available HERE. Once you are on the web page click on the Manuals button and the one to reference is named EOS RP Advanced User Guide.
First I want to say that Hazel_T offered a lot of excellent advice.
Adding to her comments...
I owned the RP for 4 years. I did a fair amount of sports photography with it, mostly as a finish line photographer for marathons and triathlons. While every shot wasn't focused perfectly, a good 95% of them were... and this was doing some rapid fire shots... usually ended up with 6,000(ish) shots for four hours of shooting. The RP is very capable. Most of my shooting was on AF set to servo, ISO between 100-800 (depending on time of day... closer to 100 as it got lighter). Sports mode is fine. I shoot sports in Tv mode (shutter priority) and set the speed on 1/500 to make sure I freeze movement.
The main thing I see that might be somewhat limiting is your aperture on both lenses. If your budget allows, and you could find a lens (even used) with an F/2.8 aperture, it would make a world of difference. Even an inexpensive nifty fifty with a F/1.8 might not get you as close up as you want (take your 24-105 lens to the basketball court, set it at 50mm, and pan around to see if it works), but you would end up with a lot more keeper shots.