1982 Jeep Cj7 Wiring Diagram Pdf

[Jonelle Rycroft]

Tryingto replace my alternator. I have everything back on, but can't remember where this one wire connect to . I usually take a pic of whatever I'm working on before I remove it, but remember thinking this is easy I'm remember. I have this one lone wire going from the solenoid to ? ( does it go to the starter?) . Any assistance would be great. Thanks

82 Jeep CJ 7

Trying to replace my alternator. I have everything back on, but can't remember where this one wire connect to . I usually take a pic of whatever I'm working on before I remove it, but remember thinking this is easy I'm remember. I have this one lone wire going from the solenoid to ? ( does it go to the starter?) . Any assistance would be

Ken

Thank you all for your responses. I am still a little confused, and will post a little larger picture. I have the thicker gage wire running from batt to the solenoid. The plug that is in the alternator screwed into the back of the alternator, and I have left this one lone red wire that I thought went from the soleniod to ?? I showed the picture to several people at AZ, and they thought it went from the solenoid to the starter.

I replace the alternator mount bracket because it was cracked. Everything was hooked up using what I have in the picture, so what ever it goes to it has to be in about a 1 foot radius becuase that about how long the wire is. that's why I don't think it goes to the starter. Thanks again for the help, oviously not a machanic photo2.JPG 158.96KB 0 downloads just trying to save a litte money.

It goes to the same side of the solenoid that big wire goes on, from a post on the back of the alternator. It needs to be a heavier gauge though. The starter wire should go from the starter to the other side of that same solenoid

Your pick shows the external solenoid for the Starter and there should be a big wire from the battery to the starter, and a wire from the solenoid (looks properly sized as it carries little current) that goes to a second lug on the starter to kick the pinion out to the fly wheel.

OK, something in the picture does not look right to me, but it may just be different on the 82 than on the older CJs. I remember a wire, about 12 gauge, that went from the solenoid from the same terminal as the heavy cable from the solenoid to the starter. That wire went to the coil. The idea was that the coil ran on 12 volts during startup to give the spark some extra kick. During run mode the coil was supplied with only 6 volts with by meands of either a resistor of a resistance wire that is ebeded somewhere in the wiring harness where it runs across the firewall. The idea is that while the starter is energized it also energized 12 volts to the coil. I know from experience that if that wire to the coil is hooked to the wrong side of the soleniod, the side that goes directly to the battery and therefore alwyas has 12 volts, the coil will die an early death.

Thanks for your help. I did not replace the soleniod only the alternator. I did not add or remove wires. I only took off the old alternator. The old alternator and wiring was in place when I bought the CJ, and I have driven it that ways for 2 years. The only picture of the old set up shows the red wire attached to the soleniod but the picture cuts off and can't see where it attaches to.

Yes, I think that the summary of myanarchy comments and monele's diagram makes it pretty clear. The loose wire with the ring terminal goes to the post on the back of the alternator. See monele's diagram. the diagram shows the wire going to the battery. In this case, the way it gets to the battery is thru the connection to the battery cable at the solenoid.

You know, it appears that your ego is so fragile that it drives you to be an ass to everyone. It's almost an automated response too so I know you don't mean to be an asshat and I forgive you. But know that this crap drives people away from the board/club where you're involved.

Got this running and seems to run ok at higher RPM but still can act up at higher RPM. After the choke opens and the engine drops to base idle many times it just stalls. When it stalls the ignition coil just stops firing. sometimes it almost dies and catches again and cuts out and catches and cuts out and catches then stalls. When it cuts out the Ignition coil just stops firing. I replaced the Ignition module after taking this capture and figuring the module was faulty.

Yesterday I took a capture looking at the positive side of the ignition coil and noticed that as the problem started to happen sometimes the module would start regrounding the coil before the coil could fully discharge until it was just grounding it all the time. The pickup coil signal looks the same and the MCU signal to the Ignition module looks the same but the module keeps grounding the coil.

I agree with Brandon, you're not losing the control side. These used a very simple system and I don't recall them being very problematic. If you aren't losing supply voltage it may be the primary windings in the coil separating intermittently.

I see now, it appears the coil control continues to dwell during the failure (does not release). Place your amp probe at the control module and if the failure occurred and current is present, the module is responsible for the excessive dwell. if no Current is available, you have a short to ground present in the harness between coil negative and control module

Robert I have had issues with the old Ford system where the starter solenoid was grounding the coil causing a stall. Unplug the red wire on the solenoid, the ignition by-pass, and see if that makes a difference. Easy enough to try.

Be sure to check for any distributor shaft end play causing the loss of ignition. I remember an older, high mileage Ford Ranger years ago than caused me to chase my tail a while on a similar problem. A new distributor shaft was the fix

Nelson,Viewing the waveforms it can be seen that the coil primary remains grounded at the time the stall occurs. This proves the fault is not a loss of ignition do the shaft play but A control issue. The coil circuit is shorted on the control side. Whether the short is internal to the control unit, the coil itself or the circuit in between is what is to be found

If I have a current flow, I will check for current flow at the positive side of the coil and also by the module. That will help narrow down what is causing the grounding. If it is the module, why? It is the second new module on the car doing the same thing.

Great catch! I looked at where it starts to fire again at the end of the waveform and see the voltage coming back down again. Maybe I have a voltage drop on the ground circuit causing the trigger voltage not to be crossed on the module.

This jeep was sitting for 20 yrs, so may have corrosion on some of the grounds. The scope was hooked to the battery so the negative voltage readings could be grounding problems between the body, engine and battery. The module is bolted to the fender but grounded to the distributor. the MCU(PCM) is behind the glove box, and I will need to find out where it is grounded.

Does this have a factory tachometer I had a simular problem yrs ago and bypassed tach and problem gone. Also check grounds around right side of block/ head they would be loose I found on middle to back side of head also check pick up coil in dist found some that rivets come loose and pick up hits trigger wheel

I am thinking of hooking up 3 of the channels to the different grounds and the ignition. Start it and see what voltage drop I read on the different grounds till the problem occurs. Then clean and add redundant grounds if needed and recheck. I think it will be interesting to see the results.

I ihad kinda the same senerio 4.2 jeep had been sitting for 20 years customer wanted to drive it and after carb replacement I was still having issues, behind the battery there was or is a resister pac that the battery acid took out and I want to a local computer ship they gave me the resisters I needed and the ground at the block to battery was bad after that all was well

As long as the O2 sensor is reading .9 volts, the stepper motor will be in the wide-open position trying to lean the mixture out. Pull a vacuum hose or lean the idle mixture out by turning in the mixture screws 1-2 turns and see if the stepper motor extends.

I saw the WOT on the wiring diagram. I can't tell you how it pulses the stepper motor. On my diagram, it shows only two wires on the stepper. That doesn't seem correct. I test the stepper by creating a major vacuum leak (lean) or squirting some carb or throttle body cleaner or propane into the carburetor (rich). The stepper motor should respond to extreme rich or lean by changing direction.

Well after fine-tuning the Carb, getting the Exhaust replaced and the Air injection connected, fixing the O ring in the rollover valve it finally passed the California Dyno Emission test. the Jeep is finally going home!

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