Hello Kai,
Thanks for your message: you are right about the Hessian test failing here, I forgot about that. This is because the retraction R is only a first-order approximation of the exponential map.
So, f o R_x (the cost function f composed with the retraction R at x) has the same gradient as f itself, but they do not share the same Hessian. This means the gradient and Hessian of f only provide a first-order approximation of f o R_x, instead of a second order approximation. Perhaps this is why with or without the Hessian we do not see a qualitatively different result.
(Although, as we converge to a critical point, this distinction becomes moot: at a critical point x, the Hessian of f o R_x and the Hessian of f will coincide indeed, which is why we would still expect quadratic convergence "eventually" -- it's just very surprising that it seems not to occur before the numerical experiments are shut down.)
Again, this does not necessarily mean there is a bug, but if see more surprising behavior with this particular geometry, please do let us know about it.
Thanks,
Nicolas