Pci Tv Tuner

[Chiquita Palafox]

You can use a tuner for all musical instruments. Below is a list of common instruments and their tuning. The notes are written from lowest to highest, except for the ukulele and banjo that don't have strings ordered by pitch.

Notice the list above only shows the most common tuning for each instrument. In rare cases, other tunings are used. The indicated guitar tuning applies to classical guitar, steel-string acoustic guitar, and electric guitar.

I'm an LT owner for a number of months, and I really like my Helix, but at a gig last night I finally reached the breaking point where I plan to stop using the tuner completely - I find it too poorly coded to be usable in performance. I would appreciate your advice before buying:

Get any tuner that you can read well on stage. You would only need to wire it into the input, so it doesn't even need to be a pedal, you could use something like this: _2/ if that's good enough for you.

What is it about the tuner that you can't use? I generally tune at the beginning of the show and unless something happens that's enough. The tuner seems to work fine enough for me (I only use the tuner on it when playing bass, which isn't my primary instrument, I don't use a guitar with the Helix).

So when using the tuner send feature, it means the external tuner has to be on all the time, right? Unless I want to tap dance: 1) Hold the helix tuner button to activate the inbuilt tuner, and then 2) step on the external tuner switch to turn it on.

However, IMO using the headphone output is a bad idea. You want your clean, unaltered guitar signal going to the tuner before any effects. If you plug the headphone output to the tuner's input and you kick in any effects, especially choruses or other pitch altering effects, the tuner will have trouble.

Also if you place your tuner in one of the Helix the effects loops that means you're including the tuner's circuitry in your signal path. If the tuner is true bypass or has a good buffer that may be okay but it is not ideal and not necessary. I would either:

1) Place the tuner before the Helix - between your guitar and the Helix's guitar input. If tuner is true bypass that's good with a short cable between the tuner and Helix input. If the tuner is not true bypass but has a good buffer that works too.

Thanks! I'll try #1 - the Turbo Tuner claims a true bypass. My reasoning is that I don't have to have the tuner on all the time (like #2 would require). Or, I would have to hold the helix tuner button and then step on the Turbo Tuner button.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "I don't have to have the tuner on all the time". Do you mean you don't want the tuner engaged (tuning mode) all the time, or do you mean you don't want the tuner "on" (powered on) all the time ?

It sounds like you want to do option #1 which is just the traditional old school way as if you were going guitar to tuner to amp (or other effects pedals etc.). Makes sense, especially with your true bypass Turbo Tuner. When tuning, your guitar signal goes to the tuner and sound is muted. When not tuning your guitar signal goes straight through the true bypass tuner into the Helix guitar input. As with ANY true bypass setup keep your cables short like a 10 - 15 foot from guitar to tuner then short like a 1 or 2 foot into the Helix. Bottom line is keep total cable length under 20 feet.

There are reasons why someone might like option #2. For example if your tuner is NOT true bypass and has a bad buffer circuit that sucks tone you might not want to put that before the Helix. In that case you can employ the Helix external tuner feature (see Tuner section in the manual) to send your signal out one of the sends to the tuner that is always in tuning mode. That way your signal doesn't pass through the crappy tuner circuit while you're playing. It only goes there when you're tuning.

Another reason might be you want to bring the tuner closer to your face for visibility. I thought of doing that with a Boss TU-3S mini tuner (no footswitch). You could mount it to a mic stand to see it better but kick it in/out using the Helix tuner footswitch. Of course you could do that with any tuner - the TU3S is just small.

I was going to use option #2 with my regular Boss TU3 pedal tuner because even though it has a pretty good buffer I just thought it might be better not to have it before the Helix at all. I wanted to have my guitar going straight into the Helix guitar input. However I wound up going wireless with a Shure GLXD16 that has a tuner in it which is of course an active circuit before the Helix after all, but it sounds perfect and I prefer the tuner in the Shure over the Helix tuner. So I'm back to option #1 - just no guitar cable.

Yup! Have several. Always dead accurate and stable, regardless if used in Polyphonic mode or not. I prefer the Strobe mode for higher accuracy. The unit is so compact, durable and reliable. I use them on Acoustic Electrics, Solid body Electrics, Semi and Partially Hollow Body Electrics. All with great quick and accurate results. It will be nice when Helix's Tuner delivers as stable reliable results. Helix's existing Tune is okay, but it is very jumpy. Just needs to be better stabilized. Hopefully by firmware 3.0

Good idea. I explored that and bought one a month or two ago, excited to try it, but I didn't like it and sent it back. The poly and single note modes didn't agree, plus some other issues I can't recall now.

To your question though, I've used so many different tuners over the years and I have to say I always go back to the Korg Pitchblack. Big clear display, not much unnecessary distractions and locks in a tuning better than anything I've used. Probably why you see it so often on boards.

On a related note: What length and brand patch cable would you recommend to go to the Helix (either Guitar -> tuner -> Helix, or Guitar -> Helix -> tuner)? Sweetwater sold me a Mogami 18' TS-TS Ang/Str instrument cable, which was pricey. I saw this mentioned elsewhere: . Thanks!

It comes down to nothing more than layout for me, where do you want the tuner comfortably sitting (would go Guitar->Tuner->Helix, always first in the chain so that there's the cleanest tone possible for the thing to pitch to ). If you want it relatively flush against the side of the Helix then you don't need 18', if you want it a distance from the Helix then...well you get it. Nice thing is, most tuners have that signal mute so a really good kill switch if you need it or for like when guitar is on stage before show and and you want no feedback etc while you are off setting up the pyrotechnics :)

February 17, 2014 at 12:03 AM I have already submited a thread here and everyone said I should get a teacher, I never thought otherwise,but currently I cant afford lessons, and I dont want to see my violin inside its case , and when I practice my scales( I have seen that there are lots of scales do you recommend any that I should search? I am trying to focus on the major notes, not the sharp ones) I was first using a tuner ,since I am not familiar with their sound yet and because I dont have a teacher to say if it is right or wrong.But some people think it is a bad idea.

February 17, 2014 at 01:41 AM Avoiding sharps is not going to get you very far. There is a goood scale book by Hrimaly that is a time honored classic. Get that one, it starts very simple but it's got enough to keep you challenged for a few years too. The most comfortable major keys on the violin have 1, 2, or 3 sharps. When you are half way thru Hrimaly you can get Fischer.

Tuners are not evil, but they are slower than your brain and less accurate. You need to learn how to hear ringing pitches on your violin and how to play the intervals of the scale correctly. The latter is best described by Fischer.

A tuner is fine for tuning your instrument..and fine for periodic checks to make sure you are on track. But it is not a substitute teacher and you shouldn't rely on it as such. Most beginners actually start with the scales of G (one sharp) or D (2 sharps) because the finger placement is easier. The scale of C (no sharps or flats) is actually a little harder.

February 17, 2014 at 03:08 AM Tuners have their place, but like any tool they have to be used correctly. When you first start it is a good idea to at least tune the instrument with a tuner. To help train my ear, I used to tune the violin and then play two strings together and listen to how the notes interacted together.

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