Revamp

[Ante Vukorepa]

A little something i've been working on...

It's not a revision of the MakerBot Watch (although it's inspired by rev3). 

It's a completely new idea.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1702513/Chronoduino.jpg

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Romain Bazile]

Nice!

But, uh, what is it?


Cheers,

Romain

[Ante Vukorepa]

It's a... Chronoduino :)

Specs:

- Atmega 168 or 328

- internal OSC (up to 8 MHz)

- two right-angle push-buttons

- one programmable LED

- buzzer (speaker)

- DS1337 with a 32.768 kHz crystal for timekeeping

- BMP085 for pressure (baro) and temperature sensing

- microUSB for charging

- 4 headers for "Faces" - Chronoduino shields

- footprint: 1.52" = 38.6mm diameter

MakerBot watch is thin, but has a huge footprint. This thing's sized like a regular watch (add a case and it's still within 42ish mm dia, like most today's watches), but doesn't come with any indicators whatsoever apart from a single LED.

Idea being that you'll add a shield on top of it with a UI of your choice + additional sensors. And if you want to, you can leave it bare and use it as, say, a really tiny sensor node.

I'm currently working on designing an analogue LED Face similar to MakerBot Watch's, except this one also has a magnetometer on it (HMC5883) and two additional LEDs (for AM/PM indication). Combined with Chronoduino, that makes for a fully functional alti-baro-temp watch.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[o.or...@gmail.com]

(BTW, first time using EAGLE and first time trying to design a
fabricatable PCB, so i expect it will take a ton of revisions and a
loooong time before this thing's usable.)

--
Ante Vukorepa

On Jul 11, 3:47 am, Ante Vukorepa <o.orci...@gmail.com> wrote:
> It's a... Chronoduino :)
>
> Specs:
> - Atmega 168 or 328
> - internal OSC (up to 8 MHz)
> - two right-angle push-buttons
> - one programmable LED
> - buzzer (speaker)
> - DS1337 with a 32.768 kHz crystal for timekeeping
> - BMP085 for pressure (baro) and temperature sensing
> - microUSB for charging
> - 4 headers for "Faces" - Chronoduino shields
> - footprint: 1.52" = 38.6mm diameter
>
> MakerBot watch is thin, but has a huge footprint. This thing's sized like a regular watch (add a case and it's still within 42ish mm dia, like most today's watches), but doesn't come with any indicators whatsoever apart from a single LED.
>
> Idea being that you'll add a shield on top of it with a UI of your choice + additional sensors. And if you want to, you can leave it bare and use it as, say, a really tiny sensor node.
>
> I'm currently working on designing an analogue LED Face similar to MakerBot Watch's, except this one also has a magnetometer on it (HMC5883) and two additional LEDs (for AM/PM indication). Combined with Chronoduino, that makes for a fully functional alti-baro-temp watch.
>
> --
> Ante Vukorepa

> Sent with Sparrow (http://bit.ly/sigsprw)

>
> On nedjelja, 10. srpnja 2011. at 23:47, Romain Bazile wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >  Nice!
>
> >  But, uh, what is it?
>
> >  Cheers,
>
> >  Romain
>
> >  On 07/09/2011 06:46 PM, Ante Vukorepa wrote:
> > > A little something i've been working on...
> > > It's not a revision of the MakerBot Watch (although it's inspired by rev3).
> > > It's a completely new idea.
>
> > >http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1702513/Chronoduino.jpg
>
> > >  --
> > >  Ante Vukorepa

> > >  Sent with Sparrow (http://bit.ly/sigsprw)

[Ante Vukorepa]

Okay, couldn't sleep so i've used the night to route the first "face".

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1702513/cFace.jpg

As i've said before, layout is similar to the MakerBot Watch, except the LEDs are rotated (easier to route that way, plus, the orientation made more sense to me if used for indicating directions) and there are two extra (orange) LEDs next to the four yellow minute ones.

There's an HMC5883L 3D magnetometer nested near the center.

Routing it while staying within specs (according to the sheet, there must be NO planes nor traces under it) was a major PITA, which is why i've ended up with so many vias around it.

The bottom side has four SMD female headers to match the four pin headers on the main Chronoduino board.

What else... Oh, yeah. Did i mention i've retained the exact ATmega168 pinout from the MakerBot Watch? That means any code written for the MBW will work on the Chronoduino as well, without any changes.

So, there ya have it.

Thoughts, opinions, questions, suggestions? :)

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Eric Hoffstetter]

Looks pretty cool to me. I like the way you've arranged the LEDs.

-Eric

[o.or...@gmail.com]

BTW, got a few handfuls of these coming my way:

http://www.decadecounter.com/vta/articleview.php?item=784

They just beg to be used in a watch :)
(despite the more calculator-like digit grouping)


Regards,
Ante Vukorepa

[Ante Vukorepa]

Here we go...

EAGLE templates for the Chronoduino faces (shields).

The template has SMD female headers on the bottom.

Of course, if you don't have any interfering components on the top of the face, you can use through-hole variants as well. Also, if you want a tighter package and don't intend to switch faces often, you can also create a through hole variant without the headers and just solder the main board's pins in.

If this thing ever catches up and the need arises, i'll redesign the whole header idea with something lower-profiled (board-to-board connectors, perhaps).

Anywho, there are two sets of EAGLE sch & brd files.

The only difference between them are the pin names.

One is using MakerBot Watch conventions (LED ROWs and COLs - useful if you're making a compatible analogue-styled ELD face or a matrix). The other uses the ATMega pin names.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[o.or...@gmail.com]

Okay, this was way faster than i've expected...
Just got the proto-batch of Chronoduino and cFace PCBs.

http://arduous.orcinus.me/2011/07/the-boards-are-in/

[Romain BAZILE]

Whoa! So nice!
I think this is a great idea!

I want one!

Romain Bazile.

2011/7/28 o.or...@gmail.com <o.or...@gmail.com>

[bre pettis]

Agreed. I want one too!

Bre

MakerBot Industries
http://makerbot.com
MakerBot on Colbert: http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/06/09/bre-on-the-colbert-report/
Recent Video: http://cadillac.money.cnn.com/cnn/cbu/episode.jsp?pv=true&ep=7
Recent Old School Print: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/14/arts/design/makerbot-is-a-new-3-d-printer.html

[Jon Hodgins]

That looks cool, I'd like one as well.

Jon

On Jul 28, 12:35 pm, bre pettis <brepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Agreed. I want one too!
>
> Bre
>

> MakerBot Industrieshttp://makerbot.com

> MakerBot on Colbert:http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/06/09/bre-on-the-colbert-report/
> Recent Video:http://cadillac.money.cnn.com/cnn/cbu/episode.jsp?pv=true&ep=7

> Recent Old School Print:http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/14/arts/design/makerbot-is-a-new-3-d-p...

>
> On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 11:30 AM, Romain BAZILE <gromain....@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Whoa! So nice!
> > I think this is a great idea!
>
> > I want one!
>
> > Romain Bazile.
>

> > 2011/7/28 o.orci...@gmail.com <o.orci...@gmail.com>

[Ethan Dicks]

I want one (set) too.

-ethan

[o.or...@gmail.com]

Wow, didn't think you guys would be so interested in it even before
it's built :)

The plan is to populate one or two sets and see if the thing's even
working (i have a bad feeling i've messed something up, dunno why). If
it is, i'll do some tiny changes (i think i'll have to move the
battery connector a bit, for one), then order a bigger batch of PCBs
and make some for everyone.

Currently have only 3 sets of boards. If they all end up being
functional, i might send away two to whoever's interested.

Now that i have the boards and components in hand, i'm sorta worried
about the magnetometer. That package is insanely tiny.
Going to try to reflow it with hot air, using a gas-powered Weller, as
there's absolutely no way to solder it on traditionally. Hope i won't
mess it up.


Regards,
Ante Vukorepa

[Ethan Dicks]

On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 7:40 PM, o.or...@gmail.com
<o.or...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Wow, didn't think you guys would be so interested in it even before
> it's built :)

Oh... I thought you had a stack of like 10 board sets already (I order
from Gold Phoenix, recommended to me by Zack Hoeken, and it runs me
$99 incl FedEx charges for 155 sq in of boards - the ATmega8051 clock
board I did (72 LED matrix - 60 red, 12 green) was big, fat, 0.1" DIP
parts and we got 15-16 boards for our $99).

I can certainly wait until you _do_ place an order for 10 sets. I'll
have the other watch to work on before then.

> Now that i have the boards and components in hand, i'm sorta worried
> about the magnetometer. That package is insanely tiny.
> Going to try to reflow it with hot air, using a gas-powered Weller, as
> there's absolutely no way to solder it on traditionally. Hope i won't
> mess it up.

Yeah... that one's a toughie. I have personally done down to
0.5mm-pitch QFPs by hand, but that magnetometer is very wee.

Can't wait to see how it all turns out.

Cheers,

-ethan

[Romain Bazile]

To build my Makerbot Watch, i'm planning to build a reflow oven, as
simple as it gets, with a thermocouple, an arduino and some relay.
I can share the build, as i'll try to do something very simple to set up
and use! I think this will lead to an easy process for soldering fine
pitch boards!

Le 29/07/2011 02:40, o.or...@gmail.com a �crit :

[bre pettis]

I've had good luck with this technique using a hotplate from target.

http://wiki.makerbot.com/smtkit

Bre


MakerBot Industries

http://makerbot.com
MakerBot on Colbert: http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/06/09/bre-on-the-colbert-report/
Recent Video: http://cadillac.money.cnn.com/cnn/cbu/episode.jsp?pv=true&ep=7

Recent Old School Print: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/14/arts/design/makerbot-is-a-new-3-d-printer.html

On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 3:07 AM, Romain Bazile <groma...@gmail.com> wrote:

To build my Makerbot Watch, i'm planning to build a reflow oven, as simple as it gets, with a thermocouple, an arduino and some relay.
I can share the build, as i'll try to do something very simple to set up and use! I think this will lead to an easy process for soldering fine pitch boards!

[o.or...@gmail.com]

Just a little teaser:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeHRKKGEOLw

;)


Regards,
Ante Vukorepa

[o.or...@gmail.com]

Some photos to go with that video:
http://arduous.orcinus.me/2011/08/its-aliiiiive/

Writing a library for it right now.
Gonna post a little demo when it's in a usable state.

Oh, yeah, one more thing...
Remember when i've said it's pin-compatible with the MakerBot Watch?
Well, it isn't.
I forgot about that when i've moved the switches (buttons) to
different pins, displacing some of the led column pins in the process.


Regards,
Ante Vukorepa

[Romain Bazile]

For the pin-compatible issue, I don't think that's a problem! A couple
of #define at the top of the sketch, and it will be pin-compatible! :D

Le 04/08/2011 02:40, o.or...@gmail.com a �crit :

[Romain Bazile]

Oh, and I almost forgot, but ... very nice job! I just love what you
did! It's awesome! I can't wait to get my hands on one of your
chronoduino! :D

Le 04/08/2011 02:40, o.or...@gmail.com a �crit :

[Ante Vukorepa]

I'm rewriting the classes anyways, so it shouldn't be a problem :)

Made an output buffer and functions that write to it. And a buffer refresh function that sits in the main loop.

----
Ante Vukorepa

[Ante Vukorepa]

(i did, however rewrite the LED address defines used in the original MBW code and leave the light/unlightLED functions, so anything using those works out of the box :)

----
Ante Vukorepa

[Romain Bazile]

Hey!

I just found out about HobbyKing and their huuuuge collection of LiPo batteries.
I think this one might be great for the Makerbot Watch and the Chronoduino: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7568__ZIPPY_240mAh_20C_single_cell_.html
It's a 240mAh single cell, that can be soldered directly on the batttery pads with some wire.
Quite nice for $1.82!

And there might be some more nice gems hidden there! :D

Cheers,

Romain

[Eric Hoffstetter]

That should be a good battery. I was getting about 5 or 6 hours of life out of the 110mAh battery from sparkfun and this 240mAh battery is only a little bit larger. 

BTW I used sparkfun's usb li-po charger board an just cut it down to size (most of the board is not needed). It worked great for anyone who wants to use li-po with the original watch.

-Eric

[Ante Vukorepa]

Thanks for the battery tip! :)

Odd thing… i've been spending a lot of time on Hobbyking's web (quadcopters are one of my… vices) and never even considered looking for a MBW/Chronoduino battery there.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[o.or...@gmail.com]

Here we go, i've put together a quick Chronoduino demo:
http://arduous.orcinus.me/2011/08/quick-demo/

Enjoy the show! :)


Regards,
Ante Vukorepa

[Martin Bogomolni]

I think doing a full production run of these ( say a hundred? ) would
be fun. What is the BoM cost at those levels?

-M

[Ante Vukorepa]

Don't have a clue.

I don't even know what the cost is for one or even three.

I'll do some number crunching tomorrow and come up with some figures :)

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Romain Bazile]

I know for HobbyKing! Even while looking for cheaper batteries for the rev3 of the makerbot watch, I didn't even had the idea of looking there!

Quadcopters? Mmmmmm, yummmy! :D (Hopefully, or not, I don't have too much space to work (play) with them.... yet!)

Didn't the boards from Laen came by 3? What did you do with the 2 others?

Because this thing is really, really, really cool!

And I also wanted to ask, did you solder everything by hand?


Regards,

Romain

[Ante Vukorepa]

On petak, 5. kolovoza 2011. at 00:51, Romain Bazile wrote:

Quadcopters? Mmmmmm, yummmy! :D (Hopefully, or not, I don't have too much space to work (play) with them.... yet!)

Yeah, me neither. I mostly just tinker with helis (traditional and quad), rarely actually fly them XD

Didn't the boards from Laen came by 3? What did you do with the 2 others?

Yup! They're still here :)

Well, not here, back home. I'm on vacation, LOL.

Will solder those too when i get back.

Interested in one? They're a bit buggy as i've previously mentioned (the crystal and lack of 3.3V from TTL being the most important flaws).

 

And I also wanted to ask, did you solder everything by hand?

Yup.

The BMP085 and the magnetometer were soldered with hot air (gas-powered Weller). Everything else was a cheap chinese soldering station and good flux :)

Regards,

Ante Vukorepa

[Romain Bazile]

Le 05/08/2011 01:02, Ante Vukorepa a écrit :

On petak, 5. kolovoza 2011. at 00:51, Romain Bazile wrote:

Quadcopters? Mmmmmm, yummmy! :D (Hopefully, or not, I don't have too much space to work (play) with them.... yet!)

Yeah, me neither. I mostly just tinker with helis (traditional and quad), rarely actually fly them XD

Didn't the boards from Laen came by 3? What did you do with the 2 others?

Yup! They're still here :)

Well, not here, back home. I'm on vacation, LOL.

Will solder those too when i get back.

Interested in one? They're a bit buggy as i've previously mentioned (the crystal and lack of 3.3V from TTL being the most important flaws).

Oh yes! Definitely! They really look awesome! Even if they are buggy! For the crystal, maybe the ones from the makerbot batch can do... I still have some left, I can send you one or two to try if you want (or I can try if you send me a board! ;) ).

 

And I also wanted to ask, did you solder everything by hand?

Yup.

The BMP085 and the magnetometer were soldered with hot air (gas-powered Weller). Everything else was a cheap chinese soldering station and good flux :)

Very nice job then!
I'm waiting for my oven reflux controller to come in! I can't waiiiiiit!

Regards,

Ante Vukorepa

[Martin Bogomolni]

As I said .. I think I can swing an actual production run, assuming we
figure out the BoM. I have good connections at Advanced Circuits so
the PCB production wouldn't be a big issue. I've also got lots (and
lots) of the mega168's, so the microcontroller supply is easy (plus
we know they work great!).

Accelerometers, magnetometers, temperature sensors are optional items
to stuff .. which can keep the production BoM down. I also have good
relations with a company here in Austin called "Virtex" that does
assembly, and an account with them. So we could get the boards
assembled 'by pros'.

The real question comes down to "is there demand?" (I think so!) and
"can we afford it"

-M

[Ante Vukorepa]

Hmm. Definitely worth looking into :)

I'll figure out the BoM pricing and get back to you.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[o.or...@gmail.com]

Here's the prelim BoM cost for 1-5 pieces...


*Chronoduino*

components: $25.71
board: $5.00
material shipping costs: $5.01
total: $35.72


*cFace*

components: $15.39
pcb: $5.00
material shipping costs: $5.01
total: $25.40


TOTAL: $61.12


That's without the battery.
Bear in mind there are some components that haven't exactly been
"price-optimised".
For example, one of the 0402 capacitors, the 40k2 resistors and the
SMD 4-way receptacles are severely overpriced, i assume due to Farnell
UK sourcing them from Farnell USA. The "material shipping costs" is
the sum cost of having the components shipped to me (to Croatia; tax
not included), which could be avoided if the boards were assembled in
USA.

I'll figure out the cost for a 100-piece run next.


Regards,
Ante Vukorepa

On Aug 5, 1:13 am, Ante Vukorepa <o.orci...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hmm. Definitely worth looking into :)
> I'll figure out the BoM pricing and get back to you.
>
> --
> Ante Vukorepa

> Sent with Sparrow (http://bit.ly/sigsprw)

[Martin Bogomolni]

If you email me the BoM (qty/part#/type/tolerance) I can try to run
the numbers down lower using my account at Digikey/Mouser and other
suppliers here in the US.

-M

[Ante Vukorepa]

Here's a Digikey BOM (tab delimited) for 100 pcs.

See if it helps...

The total ends up being $2160.10.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Martin Bogomolni]

If the barometric pressure sensor is dropped, you can save $500. I
have the atmegas (ATMEGA168PV-10AU-ND) which I have for $1, saving
another $100...

With those, the BoM cost drops down to $1508.10 .. $15/unit is a lot
better (and you can leave the pad open for the baromeric pressure
sensor, if someone wants to hand-solder it on later)

-M

[Ante Vukorepa]

Hmm. That might work.

Maybe make a "lite", bring-your-own-BMP085-and-battery version and a limited(er) number of all-included boards/kits?

There's one thing still bothering me…

Charging/TTL is still pretty clunky. Right now, you can't have it running with just the USB, without the battery. And you have to have the battery attached to program it. The latter is due to an error (3.3V TTL line left hanging), but the former is a bit inconvenient.

Also, programming with an FTDI cable/adapter is clunky. Even though you don't have to solder the header in (just inserting it and removing it works fine). Would be nice to have a "universal" USB port for both, charging, power and programming. Problem is, FTDI chip is damned huge.

Anyone know of any alternatives?

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Romain Bazile]

We could try to use a teensy board clone maybe. I know it can run arduino sketches, though I'm not sure about the complete compatibility...
The micro-controller integrates the usb, so that might be a solution.
I've already thought of this, and I couldn't see any "easy" solution.

Another solution could be to duplicate the UNO board, but again, that's one more chip on board, with all its components.

The clock doesn't just run on usb because the usb 5V is just connected to the battery charger. We could add a 3V3 regulator to be used to provide 3V3 when usb is plugged in. We will have to be careful with the interaction with the battery... Maybe a small diode in line...


Hope this thought will be helpful!

R

[Martin Bogomolni]

There are a few projects to put a USB stack on the AVR, but the problem is getting them to fit inside of the 1K (or 2K) you have for a bootloader.  

So far, I haven't seen a lot of good progress there.  I saw a prototype for a bootloader that exposed the AVR as a "mass storage" device, with a "FAT" filesystem (both basically faked out to be 'only' enough to work).   The bootloader showed an "eeprom.hex" and "sketch.hex" file when you connect the device to a USB port.   You could read them (dump) or write them (program) .. but it was sooooo clunky.

-M

[Romain Bazile]

I don't think we need loads of functionality there, so maybe the teensy
solution is worth looking into...
More informations here:
http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/teensyduino.html

Cheers,

R
Le 09/08/2011 15:52, Martin Bogomolni a �crit :

[Ante Vukorepa]

Hmmm. Will check it out.

In the meantime, how about this:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/ICs/FT232R.htm

QFN32 should be compact enough.

Plus, we can even use it as an external clock for the 168.

Question is, is there enough space for the routing.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

On utorak, 9. kolovoza 2011. at 15:57, Romain Bazile wrote:

I don't think we need loads of functionality there, so maybe the teensy
solution is worth looking into...
More informations here:
http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/teensyduino.html



Cheers,

R

[Romain Bazile]

In the makerbot watch rev3, there's some space on the bottom (not much, but some), to add a chip like this. But the routing might be a little squeezed!

I don't know about the chronoduino, but it might be worth a try! (Please share your eagle files! :D :D )


Cheers,


Romain

[Martin Bogomolni]

good gosh that FTDI chip is _expensive_ ... most of the cost on the board.

Frankly, an external programming dongle/cable isn't that bad.   You don't have to hook up USB to the connector.

-M

[Ante Vukorepa]

Whoops, didn't even look at the cost.

It's pricey, but not *that* bad. 

$6.13 a pop at Farnell UK.

$4.31 for 100+.

But they don't have them in stock right now.

Although, yes, as far as i'm concerned, external dongle isn't a problem.

However, most people frown at that, so if this thing's ever going to get a wider user base (doubt it, but who knows), it's probably going to need built in USB<->UART conversion. So this is more of a "what if" mental exercise.

There's another option that i've just seen mentioned at Dangerous Prototypes…

Using a tiny QFN PIC as a USB interface.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Ethan Dicks]

On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 11:03 AM, Martin Bogomolni <marti...@gmail.com> wrote:
> good gosh that FTDI chip is _expensive_ ... most of the cost on the board.

Yes. Yes it is.

> Frankly, an external programming dongle/cable isn't that bad.   You don't
> have to hook up USB to the connector.

I am not horrified by the idea of an external programming dongle,
especially since I already own a few for Makerbot and other Arduino
uses (Diavolino, Sanguino, and a couple of other variants).

The only negative issue I see is that if an end-user sees a Mini or
Micro USB connector that only has Vcc and GND hooked up for charging
the LiPO battery, it might lead to confusion about why a different
cable is needed for programming.

-ethan

[Ante Vukorepa]

Will share the EAGLE files as soon as i'm back at (my regular) computer :)

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Ante Vukorepa]

On utorak, 9. kolovoza 2011. at 17:12, Ethan Dicks wrote:

The only negative issue I see is that if an end-user sees a Mini or
Micro USB connector that only has Vcc and GND hooked up for charging
the LiPO battery, it might lead to confusion about why a different
cable is needed for programming.

Yes, that's exactly the thing.

So far, the board has 4 different connectors, of which some are used for power and programming (ISP), some are used for programming only (TTL), some are used for power (JST) and some are used for charging (USB). It's a bit of a nuisance from an end-user point of view.

[Romain Bazile]

Digikey got them for $3.65 for 100+, so it's not that much expensive...

But Ethan is right, I think it would lead to some confusion if 2 cables are needed! Moreover, it would be really nice to have a single cable to charge AND program the watch. I think it would allow a much more wider audience to join in!

Less is better from the connector point of view I think!

The QFN pic might be a solution! I saw it too, but I didn't even think of using it here!

[Ante Vukorepa]

Okay, found the EAGLE files on my laptop (i'm still away on vacation :), but they're an old revision.

Instead of posting those, i've started making some changes, will then do some quick rerouting and post the revised (v0.2) version.

Also, will try to bring up a wiki and start putting all the relevant info there.

Changes i'm working on are:

- 3.3V vreg hooked up to the USB

- 3.3V line from the TTL header connected to the 3.3V rail

- diodes on the three 3.3V sources

- debug LED shifted to PD1 (got nowhere else to put it)

- high value resistor across (in parallel to) the crystal

Something i might do, but am still not sure about:

- reorganizing the port headers to include MOSI and MISO (which will break the cFace dependencies)

The reasoning behind this last bit that, somewhere down the line, card slots could be included on the Faces.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[o.or...@gmail.com]

Decided to use my vacation to write some documentation, so here goes:
http://chronoduino.orcinus.me/

It's a wiki with all the relevant info and data concerning
Chronoduino, including the EAGLE files and all the datasheets.
The software section is still missing, but (current) hardware should
be all there.

I've also finished revision 0.3 of the main board, containing a bunch
of power supply changes, and sent the files off for fabrication. Rev.
0.3 should be able to draw power from the battery, micro USB, the
serial TTL header or the SPI header, whichever of these is connected.
I've also added a tiny charging status LED (since the charging IC
supports it anyway and there was space), fixed the useless debug LED,
ditched the JST connector and reshaped the battery connector pads so
either the wires can be soldered to them directly, or a right-angle
SMD 2-pin header, and did a few other changes that escape me right
now.

On top of that, i've designed and sent off a new cFace board, this
time with an I2C PWM-able LED controller, less LEDs and a retro
segment LCD (6 digits) in the middle. I'll post the board design soon.

[Romain Bazile]

Nicely done! It's all I should have done for the rev3!
I've corrected my name and redirected the website address to point
directly at http://wiki.gromain.info/tiki-index.php?page=Makerbot+Watch

By the way, will there be a possibility to have one of the prototype
board? (Even from the v0.3!)

I've been thinking a bit of the case design, and it could be nice to
have two cases (let me explain a bit!):
One case for the "core" of the watch, with a screw thread on the
outside, and one case for the face, with a screw thread on the inside,
so you can "screw" the face on the core, and change it easily. Of course
for the face to be able to be screwed, the face will have to be allowed
to rotate on the case.
Do you see what I mean?
I'll make a little sketchup to show the concept!

R

Le 22/08/2011 22:21, o.or...@gmail.com a �crit :

[Ante Vukorepa]

On srijeda, 24. kolovoza 2011. at 12:40, Romain Bazile wrote:

Nicely done! It's all I should have done for the rev3!
I've corrected my name and redirected the website address to point
directly at http://wiki.gromain.info/tiki-index.php?page=Makerbot+Watch

Whooops : (

I'm so very sorry about the name.

I'll blame it on the lack of sleep and being too lazy to brew another cup of coffee while i was writing the documentation.

Oh, and sorry about not linking to the MBW3 wiki, didn't even know it was up.

Awesome work there! :)

  

By the way, will there be a possibility to have one of the prototype
board? (Even from the v0.3!)

I've got one v0.1 "reserved" for you if you don't mind the bugs.

If you do, i should have three v0.3 boards arriving some time next month (of which one's my own prototype, one's already been reserved for someone sourcing a sample OLED display i'll be building a Face for next and one's currently free).

I've been thinking a bit of the case design, and it could be nice to
have two cases (let me explain a bit!):
One case for the "core" of the watch, with a screw thread on the
outside, and one case for the face, with a screw thread on the inside,
so you can "screw" the face on the core, and change it easily. Of course
for the face to be able to be screwed, the face will have to be allowed
to rotate on the case.
Do you see what I mean?
I'll make a little sketchup to show the concept!

Yeah! That's close to what i had in mind, actually :)

Except i was thinking it might be easier to do snap-on case halves for starters (to enable easier experimentation and because it's probably easier to manufacture (from plastics, at least).

Before that, though, i'll really have to find some other board-to-board mating method, because classic pin headers currently used simply waste too much space… You could almost fit two 110 mAh batteries thickness-wise between the boards right now.

[Romain BAZILE]

No worries for the name and website! It's okay!

As for the boards, a bug free board can be nice (if available!). :-)

And for the case, the clipping halves are good I think!
I've also been thinking about several slices that could be screwed together... Easy to make, and easy to build!

For the mating space, we could slide the battery in between! I didn't even thought of that!

R

> Sent with Sparrow (http://bit.ly/sigsprw)

[Romain BAZILE]

Hey everyone!

How is it going with the new revision of the chronoduino?


Cheers,

Romain Bazile.

2011/8/26 Romain BAZILE <groma...@gmail.com>

[Ethan Dicks]

On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 11:56 AM, Romain BAZILE <groma...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hey everyone!
>
> How is it going with the new revision of the chronoduino?

I received mine a few days back and am setting up a new (to me) stereo
microscope to help me with inspecting my solder joints.

-ethan

[Eric Hoffstetter]

I've got mine soldered together, but I haven't gotten around to programming it yet.

-Eric

[Eric Hoffstetter]

Wow everyone is gearing up for this. I just want to let everyone know that you can do this with a regular soldering iron and a manacle for the occasional inspection. Better have some solder wick on hand too. 

I haven't tested mine yet, but I'm very confident that it turned out fine and I didn't have any problems with the original watch.

I'm not criticizing the folks with all the cool gear (because I am jealous). I just don't want anyone to be discouraged because they don't have all that stuff.

-Eric

On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 10:42 AM, Norm Sohl <no...@sohl.com> wrote:

We hope to get ours put together this weekend (solder paste and hotplate have arrived, and the microscope is set up on the bench!)

--Norm and Eli.

[Ante Vukorepa]

Wait, with Chronoduino or MakerBot Watch? :)

If former, then the new boards (v0.3) have arrived and i'll publish the schematics and layouts soon (the boards themselves will have to wait a bit, since i still have to order some components and the past few weeks have been extremely chaotic).

If latter, then it's waiting on the bench, right next to the iron, but i didn't have enough time to solder it yet.

Might give it a go tonight…

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

On četvrtak, 22. rujna 2011. at 19:42, Norm Sohl wrote:

We hope to get ours put together this weekend (solder paste and hotplate have arrived, and the microscope is set up on the bench!)

--Norm and Eli.

 

From: makerb...@googlegroups.com [mailto:makerb...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Romain BAZILE
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2011 8:56 AM
To: makerb...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Revamp

 

Hey everyone!

[Ben Combee]

On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 1:21 PM, Eric Hoffstetter <aero...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Wow everyone is gearing up for this. I just want to let everyone know that
> you can do this with a regular soldering iron and a manacle for the
> occasional inspection. Better have some solder wick on hand too.
> I haven't tested mine yet, but I'm very confident that it turned out fine
> and I didn't have any problems with the original watch.
> I'm not criticizing the folks with all the cool gear (because I am jealous).
> I just don't want anyone to be discouraged because they don't have all that
> stuff.

I did my original MakerBot Watch using hand soldering... and also my
second MBW that way too after completely messing up the first one due
to trying to rework the ISP connector and applying too much heat to
the board.

[Norm Sohl]

We hope to get ours put together this weekend (solder paste and hotplate have arrived, and the microscope is set up on the bench!)

--Norm and Eli.

 

From: makerb...@googlegroups.com [mailto:makerb...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Romain BAZILE
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2011 8:56 AM
To: makerb...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Revamp

 

Hey everyone!

[Ante Vukorepa]

+1 on everything said here.

A semi-decent soldering iron is enough, as long as you have a desoldering braid (wick) and a good flux (gel-like ones, in syringes are great). I've done SMDs with a $10 soldering iron on a few occasions, without a hitch. As long as you apply generous amounts of (good) flux, you're golden.

(of course, the problem with cheap soldering irons is, the tip will be useless after 5 sessions or so)

Magnifying glasses and loupes are a good idea if you're far-sighted. If you're near sighted (like me), soldering tiny components comes easier than crossing the street. Just remember to keep your hair away from the iron and the board ;))

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Ante Vukorepa]

Oh, and one more thing…

After not using either for quite a while, i've learned that kapton tape and/or blu-tack is an *excellent* addition to your gear. More important than a lot of other stuff people buy, like third hands and various vices. Both, to immobilise boards and components and to protect them from stray heat.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Ethan Dicks]

On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Eric Hoffstetter <aero...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Wow everyone is gearing up for this. I just want to let everyone know that
> you can do this with a regular soldering iron and a manacle for the
> occasional inspection. Better have some solder wick on hand too.

I put together two sets of MBI Gen3 electronics and the v1 Makerbot watch
with bare eyes and a Weller iron. OTOH, my eyes are 1-3-years older now
and a microscope is always handy for joint inspection.

> I haven't tested mine yet, but I'm very confident that it turned out fine
> and I didn't have any problems with the original watch.

I put mine together with no faults the first time and it's still working fine
(though I do need to carry a pocketful of batteries to keep it running).

> I'm not criticizing the folks with all the cool gear (because I am jealous).
> I just don't want anyone to be discouraged because they don't have all that

It is an easy enough design to put together with simple tools. That said,
I'm still looking forward to the magnified view.

-ethan

[Ante Vukorepa]

Argh!

Started soldering the MBW, had just one capacitor (the 100 nF one) and the LEDs left, took the cap with the tweezers and sneezed. Spent half an hour crawling about in the dust with a 900 lumen flashlight trying to find it, but it's gone.

I'm sure i've got a bunch of 100 nF capacitors stashed away somewhere, but it's nearly 1am here and i'm too lazy and tired to look for them, so i'll finish up soldering it tomorrow :)

Lesson learned: never solder SMDs with a cold.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Ante Vukorepa]

Here we go…

All nice and clean and shiny ;)

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1702513/_PEN2686.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1702513/_PEN2688.jpg

A few shots next to its younger sibling:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1702513/_PEN2690.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1702513/_PEN2691.jpg

Could've been neater (some of the LEDs and resistors are very slightly askew), but considering the cold and all the sneezing while i was trying to solder, didn't turn out that bad.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow

[Ante Vukorepa]

The Chronoduino v0.3 docs have just been published:

http://arduous.orcinus.me/2011/09/chronoduino-v0-3-published/

http://chronoduino.orcinus.me/index.php5?title=Hardware

… and i've started a naming scheme for the Chronoduino board revisions.

v0.1 and v0.2 have been christened Arnoux and Bahamonde retroactively. v0.3 is Baird. v0.4 will be Beluga (explanation in the post ;).

Coming up next: cFace+ v0.1, an improved cFace with a retro LED segment display and I2C LED controller enabling hardware PWM-ing of a 12-LED "analogue" ring.

-- 
Ante Vukorepa
Sent with Sparrow