Technique for applying Kapton to build plate

[Mardy Marshall]

When it came time to replace the original Kapton tape on my Replicator 2X build plate, I wondered if an old technique that model airplane builders use to apply decals would work.  They have the same basic problem, how to apply a big piece of thin sticky material to another surface without ending up with a bunch of wrinkles and bubbles.  The solution that someone came up with is to first spray the surface where the decal is going to be applied with Windex.  Then you lay the decal down onto the Windex covered surface.  The Windex keeps the decal from sticking, allowing you to properly position it and smooth out any wrinkles and bubbles.  You then work from the center outward and squeeze the Windex and air bubbles out.  I tried it with the Kapton tape and it worked perfectly!

-Mardy

[Damian Gto]

On most decals or tape you can use soap water and spray it over the surface you want to stick it to.

It should work here to. 

The only thing I can think of is that the glue can be little weaker, but in the same time if you have zero bubbles you will have less issues that the kapton tape will loosen up.

Also i thinking of what temperature is optimal to put the kapton tape on. After all it will stretch more easy when its getting hotter.

P.S I will change my kapton tape today and I will try it out. I will heat up the build plate to 50 degree and see how the soap water is acting. If it still stays firma without to vapor away I think that is a good temperature to start with. I will come back with more information. The printer is working right now( printing with my left extruder, for the right side is the thermal coupler bad) on a object that takes about 4 hours to print.

[yournam...@yahoo.com]

I know I am bringing up an old thread but I believe this is worth bringing up again. Thank you for saving my sanity! I was trying the old fashion way to install some 4 inch Kapton tape onto my aluminum HBP on my replicator 1. After a few unsuccessful tries and a quick forum search I came across your suggestion. I have used this in the past to install screen protectors but it never crossed my mind to use it with Kapton. For anyone wondering, yes it works very well on an aluminum plate also. I slid the pieces into place, squeegeed the Windex out, and used the preheat function to boil away any trapped moisture. I'm back in business.

[Jay]

Another idea you can look at is Super Kapton! (hahah)...actually it's just very thick Kapton sold on McMaster-Carr ( http://www.mcmaster.com/#2271K73 ) It WILL give you sticker shock @$35 plus shipping. It's like card stock. You can't chip using a standard Cricket Spatula (Cricut Spatula on Amazon). You can cut the 12" x 12" into two 6" x 12" strips. You lose about 3/8 of inch in Y. 

I put this on both of my R2X and I haven't got even a scratch yet...that's 6 months use...the ONLY downside is until it's 'seasoned' you'll get some bubbles from trapped air or moisture. Use a squeegee or very fine pin to pop then squeegee flat. 

Or you could leave it...they eventually go away...

Cheers!

Jay

[yournam...@yahoo.com]

I'll look into that in the future. Today was my first time to removed the pre-applied tape and I have 200 print hours so far. Another idea that seems promising is having a piece of tile cut. It seems porous enough to really stick. Cheap too

[Jay]

Ther's a LOT of opinions on that. Glass...Hairspray...Tiles...small children.....everything has been used and it just depends on the machine. My first R2X (02/13) with Kapton is amazing...everything sticks. My second R2X (07/13) is gonna need some more tuning (and there's other factors that I want get into about where the operate)....you can go to any "Home Store" and get some thing glass cut for like $3. ...put down the glass...then apply another piece of Kapton so it folds over both ends and under the aluminum plate...that keeps it on. It's a cheap thing to try to see if it works. You're only out the bucks for the glass, the piece of Kapton, and some of your time...

Jay

[Obfuscated]

YES!!! DO THIS! YOU WON'T REGRET IT!

[Embedded Junkie]

My solution has been to pierce the bubbles with a needle. A tiny dot enough to push the air out. Most of the time the bubble with deflate flat by itself. I have not had any issues with the Kapton tearing at these hole locations. I have not tried the windex approach but that sounds like a good solution as well. I'll have to try it.

I'll just stick to piercing the new bubbles that appear after several print jobs.

[yournam...@yahoo.com]

Last time I changed the tape I didn't wait long enough for the Windex to dry before printing and it began to boil and create a huge bubble. Luckily I had a needle handy to pop it because it literally would have grown large enough to remove the tape.

[delleps]

I squeegee the surface after applying the Windex and Kapton and immediately pre-heat the build plate. If I get bubbles, they're very small and go away after 30 minutes or so. No popping required.

On Wednesday, July 10, 2013 5:31:38 AM UTC-7, Mardy Marshall wrote: