(Unofficial) Replicator XL

[JohnA.]

All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files - here’s your chance.  

Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:

- Cupcake CNC: 100mm
- Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
- Replicator: 150mm
- Replicator 2: 155mm

And to check in on some competitors:

- Printrbot Plus: 203mm
- Ultimaker: 220mm
- Series 1: 230mm

With the swapping of just 6 pieces, a Replicator 1 can be made into the (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm.    The only pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.

How much bigger is it?  The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches.  The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches.  (Unofficial) Replicator XL?  500 cubic inches (err...498 I think).  

I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the ‘window’ shapes have been changed to reflect the ‘new look.’  

Enough talk, let’s get to the photos!






More photos here:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/jabella/sets/72157631867590921/with/8129224609/ 

We can only do this since the Replicator is Open Source Hardware, and as such I’ve put the laser-cut files online here:   http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33265 - please read to the bottom of this before you download them!

The smooth rods I used are:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#6459K112   (8mm x 400mm)

David Randolph (of Replicator hood fame) is working on a set of ReplicatorXL acrylic windows for this new chassis.   The existing ‘hood’ works great, and I printed with it all day.

I got my wood parts cut by Grand Laser ( http://www.grandlaser.com/ )  - but I’ve also worked at length with Angus Hines ( http://angushines.com/ ) and he can do the wood parts as well.

No matter who you use, make sure you send the updated files from Thingiverse, as they both probably have my older files.   The changes won’t impact pricing.  

Important Notes:    

• This isn’t a hard process, but it’s also not a 1 hour job .  I had to lengthen at least a dozen wires (stepper power / fan power / extruder heaters) by a few inches.  The thermocouple, HBP, and endstop wires on mine were all long enough.  
• The case design DXF files on Thingiverse for the Replicator (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18813) are WRONG.  These are not the production files - and it messed me up a bit.  The mightyboard power / usb / reset button location has moved, requiring some dremel adjustments.   On the files I uploaded I think I’ve resolved it, but haven’t tested it yet.  You might have to dremel these sections a little still.   If you’re thinking about using them for the basis for a custom case mod, let me know and I can probably help.   
• I called MakerBot Support to get the Replicator assembly documentation that we were told they were close to releasing in January:   Turns out it doesn’t exist / can’t be shared.   So take good notes / pics when you take it apart, as there are no directions on how to assemble it.   
• If you’re getting the case cut on your own, it’s 5.5mm plywood - birch I think.  
• Warning:  This will not work with the MBI firmware 5.5 - and maybe not with 6.1 either.  There’s a problem with them hardcoding the axes length.  You can change your .xml files all day long, but it won’t ever work.  
• Double Warning: If you wire something up wrong there's a real chance of blowing something up! You've been warned. Take good photos before hand, and double-check your work before you power anything on.

Big thanks to Bruce Wattendorf (of Giant Ultimaker fame)  for helping with my meager DXF editing skills.    Thanks also to Dan and Jetty for helping after I spent hours messing with firmware issues.  

[Doogiekr]

Wow, very very nice =)

[Dan Newman]

> Thanks also to Dan and Jetty for helping after I spent hours messing with firmware issues.

Hint: you cannot run this bot with the MBI firmware owing to z-axis clipping it does
with a hard coded Z axis length of 150 mm. Sailfish does not have that restriction.

Dan

[Clinton Hoines]

Wow very nice indeed. Now I have to find where to get these cut. :) Just made my night.

 

Clinton

[drando...@gmail.com]

Here you go. I can not make a large one piece front on my laser cutter like in the original hood design but I can make swinging doors which do require a few drill holes but if your will to tackle this upgrade then I think you will be fine with drill a few holes.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33269

I love this idea and you will be sure that I will be doing it myself. Great work!

[Gary Crowell]

Gee, how would you mod a Rep 2 to do this?  Ooooh snap!

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[Erwin Ried]

Wow! what a beast!

On 28 oct, 04:43, Gary Crowell <garyacrowel...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Gee, how would you mod a Rep 2 to do this?  Ooooh snap!

> On Oct 27, 2012 8:31 PM, "JohnA." <john.abe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > *All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files -
> > here’s your chance.  *
> > *Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:

>
> > - Cupcake CNC: 100mm
> > - Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
> > - Replicator: 150mm
> > - Replicator 2: 155mm
>
> > And to check in on some competitors:
>
> > - Printrbot Plus: 203mm
> > - Ultimaker: 220mm
> > - Series 1: 230mm
>
> > With the swapping of just 6 pieces, a Replicator 1 can be made into the
> > (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm.    The only
> > pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.
>
> > How much bigger is it?  The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches.
> >  The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches.  (Unofficial) Replicator XL?  500
> > cubic inches (err...498 I think).
>
> > I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it
> > look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the ‘window’ shapes
> > have been changed to reflect the ‘new look.’
>
> > Enough talk, let’s get to the photos!
>

> > ** <http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8129250268_20d887235a.jpg>
>
> > * <http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8129224609_4d33549c3c.jpg>
>
> > *More photos here:   *
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/jabella/sets/72157631867590921/with/
> > 8129224609/

>
> > We can only do this since the Replicator is Open Source Hardware, and as
> > such I’ve put the laser-cut files online here:

> >http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33265- please read to the bottom of

> > this before you download them!
>
> > The smooth rods I used are:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#6459K112  (8mm x
> > 400mm)
>
> > David Randolph (of Replicator hood fame) is working on a set of
> > ReplicatorXL acrylic windows for this new chassis.   The existing ‘hood’
> > works great, and I printed with it all day.
>

> > I got my wood parts cut by Grand Laser (http://www.grandlaser.com/<http://www.grandlaser.com/)>)  - but I’ve also worked at length with Angus Hines (
> >http://angushines.com/) and he can do the wood parts as well.
>
> > *No matter who you use, make sure you send the updated files from

> > Thingiverse, as they both probably have my older files.   The changes won’t

> > impact pricing.  *
>
> > *Important Notes:    *
>
> >    - This isn’t a hard process, but it’s also not a 1 hour job .  I had

> >    to lengthen at least a dozen wires (stepper power / fan power / extruder
> >    heaters) by a few inches.  The thermocouple, HBP, and endstop wires on mine
> >    were all long enough.

> >    - The case design DXF files on Thingiverse for the Replicator (

> >    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18813) are WRONG.  These are not the
> >    production files - and it messed me up a bit.  The mightyboard power / usb
> >    / reset button location has moved, requiring some dremel adjustments.

> >    * On the files I uploaded I think I’ve resolved it, but haven’t tested
> >    it yet. * You might have to dremel these sections a little still.   If

> >    you’re thinking about using them for the basis for a custom case mod, let
> >    me know and I can probably help.

> >    - I called MakerBot Support to get the Replicator assembly

> >    documentation that we were told they were close to releasing in January:
> >      Turns out it doesn’t exist / can’t be shared.   So take good notes / pics
> >    when you take it apart, as there are no directions on how to assemble it.

> >    - If you’re getting the case cut on your own, it’s 5.5mm plywood -
> >    birch I think.
> >    - *Warning:*  This will not work with the MBI firmware 5.5 - and maybe

> >    not with 6.1 either.  There’s a problem with them hardcoding the axes
> >    length.  You can change your .xml files all day long, but it won’t ever
> >    work.

> >    - *Double Warning: *If you wire something up wrong there's a real

[gth]

Wow, while I'm thinking about some joinery tricks to break the limits of Rep1 build size, you folks just blow the limits by plain old making it bigger.  
I think this was how monster trucks were born...  :))

Hats off to you all.  Wish I could tinker to this degree, but for now I'm only taking baby steps...

- G.

PS: The comedian in me wants to imply thingiverse is offline because of MBI paranoid reaction to this release, but practicality says it's probably just a 5 minute maintenance outage.  :))

[abellasr]

I just went to check Thingiverse and it is down??  I was like WTF?   This mod is really a no brainer. I few parts and a little soldering gets you a big jump in capacity.  Thanks JohnA for piloting this upgrade for everyone.

[JohnA.]

Just a note - I've been adding updates to the instructions on Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33265

New notes re: firmware, gcode changes, z-threaded rod, etc....

JohnA.

[geneb]

On Sun, 28 Oct 2012, JohnA. wrote:

> Just a note - I've been adding updates to the instructions on Thingiverse:
>
> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33265
>
> New notes re: firmware, gcode changes, z-threaded rod, etc....
>

JohnA, is there any reason the 5.5mm chassis couldn't be made from 12mm
plywood and then assembled using glue & pocket screws instead of using the
capscrew/nut assembly method the original uses?

tnx.

g.


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[JohnA.]

Other than having to redesign it, I don't see why not - with a few caveats....

- if you have to replace any bearings, having it glued / screwed will make replacement harder / impossible

- actually, i thought it was going to cause an issue with belt replacement, but the belts are all split on the Replicator... 

Maybe it wouldn't be terrible.  On older bots like the Cupcake if you glued the case (I bought one used that was glued) and the power supply died you were in for a Really Bad Time.

JohnA.

[ddurant]

Pretty cool, John!

 
On Saturday, October 27, 2012 10:31:46 PM UTC-4, JohnA. wrote:

[geneb]

On Mon, 29 Oct 2012, JohnA. wrote:

> Other than having to redesign it, I don't see why not - with a few
> caveats....
>

That's the easy part. :)

> - if you have to replace any bearings, having it glued / screwed will make
> replacement harder / impossible
> - actually, i thought it was going to cause an issue with belt replacement,
> but the belts are all split on the Replicator...
>
> Maybe it wouldn't be terrible. On older bots like the Cupcake if you glued
> the case (I bought one used that was glued) and the power supply died you
> were in for a Really Bad Time.
>

Ahh, I didn't realize that. I figured the chassis went together and then
all the components were installed after. Using glue & screws would make
for a much more rigid chassis without having to go to metal.

[Gary Crowell]

I've got all the parts on order.  Since I'll have it essentially fully disassembled, I was thinking that maybe it would be a good time to paint the new sides before assembly.  I've got some Kilz primer and some white enamel that I used on my wood (MDF) CNC router, which worked out well.  What do you guys think?

Gary

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[drando...@gmail.com]

I think painting the outside would be fine but I wouldn't use enamel or latex paint on the inside. The thickness of the wood, being laminated it would chip, peel with temp and humidity however a nice oil based stain would hold up nicely and allow the wood to breath just don't try to use a stain with a water treatment or coating.

I have my set coming in as well and I was thinking about doing a how to video for others that might want to do this.

[Ethan Dicks]

On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 10:31 PM, JohnA. <john....@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files - here’s your chance.
>
> Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:
>
> - Cupcake CNC: 100mm
> - Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
> - Replicator: 150mm
> - Replicator 2: 155mm
>

> With the swapping of just 6 pieces, a Replicator 1 can be made into the
> (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm. The only
> pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.

Nicely done! I just got a TOM and now I'm wishing for a Replicator.

Very clean and very clever mod.

-ethan

[Gerald Orban]

I'm going to be receiving lasercut panels and new rods tomorrow and am hoping to "upgrade" my Rep1 to XL this thursday! Really looking forward to it!

[Clinton Hoines]

Yeah I should have my laser cut panels and rods/belts by the and of next week. Decided to widen out the case/bed at the same time, so hopefully it works. :)

[JohnA.]

I've had painted / stained Cupcakes, and one thing I definitely recommend:   painting the inside white makes things SO MUCH BRIGHTER and easier to clean out.  The LED lights really make it glow, and it's easier to wipe down.   Drop any oil / blood / etc on the unfinished wood and it's basically there for life (see:  my Cupcake)

My Replicator XL was going to be stained black (hence the white decals) to make it look even more like a Rep 2, but since I hadn't tested it yet I didn't want to stain all my new parts + half my old parts and potentially end up with a mixed up mess.  

Next time I have a chance I might do it -- black outside, white inside.

For anyone with parts en route - make sure you hit the Thingiverse page again!  I've added a bunch of notes you'll need to make it work right.

JohnA.

[drando...@gmail.com]

Last coat of stain applied to everything on my upgrade. So guess what I'll be doing over this holiday weekend? BTW the thing the pieces are drying on is my homemade 5x5 CNC plasma cutter.

[Gary Crowell]

Quick work.  Mine should be here today, but I doubt I'll be able to do the dis/assembly for a couple of weeks.  I noticed my acrylic shipped too so I guess all fit well?

Gary

On Wed, Nov 21, 2012 at 12:14 PM, da...@avidquestion.com <drando...@gmail.com> wrote:

Last coat of stain applied to everything on my upgrade. So guess what I'll be doing over this holiday weekend? BTW the thing the pieces are drying on is my homemade 5x5 CNC plasma cutter.

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[Clinton Hoines]

Nice. :)

I did the exact same thing last week when I got my panels, I did paint the inside silver though. I stained the stock Replicator all black inside and out but makes it very dim on the inside.

Also cut hand cut some windows for it, just witing on my smooth rod or it would be all put together by now.  :)

 

[drando...@gmail.com]

Yes I dropped off your box of goodies this morning Gary.
Glad I waited because it need a little reworking to be perfect.
One of the perks of having my own laser cutter is I was able to make all the parts except for the front and back pieces.
So I already made all of them and painted them up.

[abellasr]

Looking good, waiting to see some pics of these "new" XLs all assembled.

[drando...@gmail.com]

I still have a few wires to extend but its all together and I love the look!

One of the perks of having my own laser cutter is that I was able to tinker and try things. I used up a lot of wood but I made a derivative of the RepXL with some changes added in. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35415

Here are my build photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/daverandolph/sets/72157632079826074/

I really think JohnA has come up with the best upgrade to date for the Replicator people. I'm excited to see whats next.

[drando...@gmail.com]

My build is done and printing now! Here are some of my notes for others building this.

1. I did have to extend some wires. For me I extended the heaters and fans for the extruders and the stepper motor for the Y-Axis. I extended them by about 4" each. It wasn't to bad and all of my extensions are underneath so you don't see any splices in the build chamber. Solder them don't just tape them! I highly recommend some shrink tubing.

2. You will be tempted to over tighten the bolts, don't or the wood will pull the square bolts in to tight and you will damage your frame.

3. Check out these vertical rod supports. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35013 I think they are better and look better than the wood ones used.

4. You don't have to disassemble the extruders electronics to take it apart. Take out the Y-axis rods and motors and belts and left the whole extruder and xaxis assemble out. Pull off the sides and unscrew the limit switches and unplug the lights from the motherboard. This way you won't have to remove very many wires when you take it apart. It's a lot easier than trying to remember what went where.

5. If you do detach a wire, label it.

6. Leave your Y motor loose and make the the last thing you tighten up since it needs to be pulled tight against the belt.

7. The Z end stop was barely long enough to reach to the new height. I suggest bringing it up the rear right behind the Y motor but bring up the Y-Limit switch up the rear left. This will give you a good 2 additional inches.

8.  Be sure to change the start and end g-code files located in ReplicatorG/replicatorg-0040/machines/replicator. There is a start and end file for either Dual_Head of Single_Head. Change the end code to G0 Z250 (from 150) and in the start code change the G1 to Z250 (from 150)

9. Also be sure to edit ReplicatorG/replicatorg-0040/machines/replicator.xml and search for id="z" length="150" and change that to 250. It will appear two in there. This will change the build volume in ReplicatorG for you.

OK now that I've given away all of my notes I have a question for everyone. When you go to print something the HBP always drops to the bottom and heats up the HBP then moves up to start the build. I can't seem to find where that is stored. Right now it goes to 150 and heats up and that is not a big deal but it will always serve as a reminder than once upon a time my Replicator only had 150mm Z build volume and I hope to erase that from existence. :)

And to show off I made up decals for the printer. I think this is about as close to getting it to look like a Replicator2 without buying a Replicator2.

[Jetguy]

Ethan, don't buy a new bot, upgrade that T-O-M and save some cash.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35372

Seriously, it prints in 3mm or 1.75, something you can't do on a
Replicator right now. Better than the Bowden on any Rostock because
you are using a direct drive extruder. Keep the parts you have and get
the print quality and build area you are wanting.

Gen4 electronics, + MK6 or MK7/8 extruder, open source, easy to get
parts, better build platform options and no dreaded Replicator
Platform sag (that would piss me off if I spent $2,200).

On Nov 6, 3:46 pm, Ethan Dicks <ethan.di...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Clinton Hoines]

Very nice job. :) Way better then a Rep2 ;)

Really like the hood you made as well, is that all bolted together or is the top bend on the edges? Looks for more pro now than any Replicator.

Great tips on the wiring etc,hope to use those tips next week. :)

 

Any chance you would share the sicker files, would like to print out the  XL decal as well

 

Clinton

[Gary Crowell]

On Sat, Nov 24, 2012 at 8:49 PM, da...@avidquestion.com <drando...@gmail.com> wrote:

6. Leave your Y motor loose and make the the last thing you tighten up since it needs to be pulled tight against the belt.

Got the rod holders printed, and I don't know if you saw my comment on Thingiverse, but I'm printing  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34785  to tension the Y-motor.  It looks like it should work perfectly.

Gary

[drando...@gmail.com]

Thanks Clinton I was really excited when John told me about this project. The hood is based off a design I derived from a makerbot hood design, its all flat with bolt together pieces. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23386 The doors and side are from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33269

I'll attach the eps of the sticker files to this message. Please note these are registered trademarks of MBI so please only use these in support of MBI and not to make illegal copies of their products.

Yep I saw your note Gary and I will have to print out one of them to size it up and I'll throw it into the drawing. Also looking at the doors tonight I think I'm going to add in a door stop piece and a latch. I'm thinking two little laser cut pieces of wood and some drill holes to mount it all but I will have to play with it first and see if it all works.

One additional note: I talked with John tonight and he told me why my Z-Axis wasn't going all the way down. ReplicatorG seems to have the Z-Axis hard coded in version 040 but as soon as I did the modifications to version 039 it all works beautifully.

Final side note I found with my HBP modification that if I use the 1" thick supports I have to set the z axis to 245 but with 3/4" version I could do the full 250. I will still with the 1" version and loose 5mm to keep my bed level.

[abellasr]

Clinton, email me your addy to john-at-botbuilder.net and I'll send you a sticker.

[drando...@gmail.com]

OK my last update for the night. I've updated my derivative to include the y- tensioner that Gary suggested because I think its a good idea. I also added in a door stop and latch to the front and I fixed the Z-Axis hole problem on the back plate.

[JohnA.]

I just installed the new doors / window panels that David is cutting and they're excellent.  The thick new acrylic is beefy, and the printed hinges seem to work great.  Everything fit first try.   

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jabella/8216979389/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jabella/8218064892/in/photostream

Now it looks good !      I've also got his Z-platform stiffener mod ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35059 ) to install later on...

JohnA.

[Adan Akerman]

That Kapton's lookin' ragged! You could use a piece of glass there...  :-)

It's looking amazing. I'm starting to get XL envy.

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[JohnA.]

I think I'm done with Replicator XL mods, for now at least.  

Full list here:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/jabella/8217672811/in/photostream/

I put in David's HBP stiffeners and they seem good.  I didn't do any before / after measurements, but I'm confident they'll help.  The Rep2 styled nameplate panel is a nice touch as well, and I installed it.   

JohnA.

[Dolf Veenvliet]

This is great guys! Very good idea, and excellent execution. At moments like these I wish I were more of a tinkerer so I'd dare do it myself. If anyone in the Netherlands has done this and wants to help out an artist do it as well... let me know! ;)

Keep up the awesome work!

On Sunday, October 28, 2012 3:31:46 AM UTC+1, JohnA. wrote:

All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files - here’s your chance.  

Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:

- Cupcake CNC: 100mm
- Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
- Replicator: 150mm
- Replicator 2: 155mm

And to check in on some competitors:

- Printrbot Plus: 203mm
- Ultimaker: 220mm
- Series 1: 230mm

With the swapping of just 6 pieces, a Replicator 1 can be made into the (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm.    The only pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.

How much bigger is it?  The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches.  The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches.  (Unofficial) Replicator XL?  500 cubic inches (err...498 I think).  

I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the ‘window’ shapes have been changed to reflect the ‘new look.’  

Enough talk, let’s get to the photos!