Introducing The Last Build Plate You'll Ever Want

[Bottleworks]

Introducing the last build plate you will ever need.  This is a 6 inch X 11 inch (152mm X 179mm) heated build plate. 

The build surface is a removable 3mm thick borosilicate glass secured to the heater plate by Neodymium Iron Boron (NdFeB) magnets recessed into the heater plate.  To remove, simply pull the build surface by the handles and remove from the machine.  Using glass as a build surface provides a clean, true, build surface. 

Having a removable build surface allows for easier removal of your finished prints and surface preparation (tape application, or other experimental adhesives). 

The heater plate is heated by a 130W heater controlled by the Replicator's Mightyboard.  This will be available for the Replicator 1, 2, and 2X machines.  Replicator 2 owners will have to upgrade their power supply to a higher amperage version.  Replicator 1 and 2X users can use their existing power supplies. 


Thoughts?  Who's interested? 

[SMT Guy Austin, Texas]

I'm in!

[Divine Shadow]

WoW , Thats one hell of an upgrade, definitely on my wish list!

[Pascal POECK]

Always depending on the price + shipping cost but definitively an awesome upgrade, well done ;)

[Jake]

I've been working on my own glass plate that sits atop the Rep2X aluminum HBP.  I guess I can stop working now. :)

The handles look like they're proud of the glass plate surface.  Does it clear both nozzles on the 2X?  For reference, the 2X's left nozzle seems to be about 173mm from center line of the place when the carriage is fully left.  The right nozzle is about 153mm from center when the carriage is full right.  Hard to tell but it looks like it will clear from one of the pictures.

I can't believe I'm considering it.  (Considering? Who am I kidding, where's the paypal link? hehe)  Kind of defeats the purpose of having bought a 2X, when you replace one of its key components... but I'm not happy with the flatness of the 2X HBP.

Going to sell extra glass plates?  I'd like a second so you can prep the next plate while one is in the machine.  Aren't you sick of making Replicator upgrades? heh.

I guess put me down for one, cost dependent.

[david b]

i want how much?

[Eighty]

I'm in!

[Infinityplusplus]

I am very interested! I will be one of the ones needing a new power supply. Anyone know roughly what these run and a good place to get one?

[Jonathan Wild]

Id be interested. How much ?

[Bottleworks]

Re: Price.  See attachment. 

[Jake]

Well, there's always money in the banana stand...

[Bottleworks]

For those who don't get that, I'm not sure on the cost quite yet. 

There is a lot that goes into this.  The glass is custom made, the heaters are custom made, the underside stainless steel cover plate is custom made...Everything but the bolts are custom made.  Replacement glass build surfaces will be available as extras/replacements.  Yes, the left nozzle should clear on a 2X, dual Rep1.  As for replacement power supplies, I am trying to work that out.  For the "hacker" type of person, you can get a power supply for less then $30.  For someone who wants a correct OEM style P/S, it will cost more, but I'm working on that. 

On Saturday, May 18, 2013 9:18:21 AM UTC-4, Bottleworks wrote:

[Bottleworks]

There is an insulation under the heater to keep the heat where it needs to be (the plate) and not project excessive heat on to the Z platform. 

[Darrell jan]

Do you need to have the new arms in order to use the new plate?

[Jetguy]

Step 1 is to not buy the wrong sized one that comes stock .
Step 2 is to remove the other weak points from the system such as the
power supply connector and the power switch.
Step3 is buy and use this
http://www.lightobject.com/DC-24V-15A-Switching-Power-Supply-Good-for-CNC-Stepping-Motor-Drive-P447.aspx
Step 4 is to use a mod like this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90025904@N04/8682683153/
sorry for the bad pic, jut note the hole where the power plug used to
be and the heavy #12 wire size used.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90025904@N04/8683797948/

I'm saying this because the stock supply is KNOWN to be too small for
the job, even the bigger 220 watt version.
The bed is 130 Watts, the 2 heaters in a dual are 40 Watts each.
That's 210 Watts and we have yet to run the motors, LEDs, fans, or
electronics.
This is why Makerbot made a change in the firmware that still lives on
to this day http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2012/03/14/update-o-rama-replicatorg-0034-replicator-firmware-5-2/
Two (cough, cough BS) faster warmup steps. No, it's to keep from
blowing up the PSU.
Further, the default start.gcode you all print with every single time
reduces the X-Y stepper current to zero after you have homed and went
to the warmup position for the same reason. Ever wonder why those
really big platform filling prints go off the edge sometime? Yes, that
is the single dumbest assumption to home and then disable current on
the steppers and "pray" nothing moves or bumps the prints heads during
the warmup.
http://groups.google.com/group/jetty-firmware/browse_thread/thread/f536369ab5e70952/a4ff2dd8cace222b?lnk=gst&q=start#a4ff2dd8cace222b

It should be noted why I say replace the connector and the switch.
Both are rated at 10A. The stock power supply is 9.2A. You NEVER
should run any connector or switch anywhere near the rated value. They
are mechanical and will fail over time. By using a now rated 15A max
supply, the connector and the switch are the next weak link. If you
are going to do the mod, you might as well fix EVERYTHING down to the
connectors and the gcode itself.

[Mike Hellers]

Looks great indeed. Count me in!

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[Jetguy]

Sorry, my post was not meant to take anything away from Bottleworks
amazing work. So far, his upgrades have help many folks achieve what
the bot should have been all along.
My point was that if you are already spending $125 for the Z arms and
then this bed. It's a shame to to properly fix the other parts of the
machine.
The stock PSU is way more expensive and found in this thread
http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot/browse_thread/thread/1da4278bee49d5e6/a37cc4279ce72823?lnk=gst&q=power+supply+schematic#a37cc4279ce72823


Poster simongeist:

Thanks for your responses. I think I will actually wait for the
exchange to
come, although it might take a while until it arrives here in
germany.
The same PS can be obtained at mouser
<http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/GS220A24-R7B/?
qs=dr9G5SL...>btw
but it still comes 100 € (130$).
thanks anyway,


- Moritz

BTW here is the US link http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/GS220A24-R7B/?qs=dr9G5SLQEJyNXgfef3LpMg==

So the mod I am suggesting is cheaper than stock too

On May 18, 9:52 am, Mike Hellers <m...@hellers.lu> wrote:
> Looks great indeed. Count me in!
>

[Jetguy]

BTW a little cheaper here is you still want to go stock
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2099286_-1
$91 VS $134

On May 18, 10:09 am, Jetguy <barrych...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Sorry, my post was not meant to take anything away from Bottleworks
> amazing work. So far, his upgrades have help many folks achieve what
> the bot should have been all along.
> My point was that if you are already spending $125 for the Z arms and
> then this bed. It's a shame to to properly fix the other parts of the
> machine.

> The stock PSU is way more expensive and found in this threadhttp://groups.google.com/group/makerbot/browse_thread/thread/1da4278b...

>
> Poster simongeist:
>
> Thanks for your responses. I think I will actually wait for the
> exchange to
> come, although it might take a while until it arrives here in
> germany.
> The same PS can be obtained at mouser
> <http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/GS220A24-R7B/?
> qs=dr9G5SL...>btw
> but it still comes 100 € (130$).
> thanks anyway,
>
> - Moritz
>

> BTW here is the US linkhttp://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/GS220A24-R7B/?qs=dr9G5S...

[David Celento]

Nice work! Interested as well.

[GBR1]

I am keen, will you offer a complet package, bed, alu arms and power supply?

Make life a lot easier for us folks outside the US otherwise we are paying for heaps of shipping for different items..

Great work..

GBR1

[Bradley Pearce]

I can do a package deal for the platform and arms. Maybe the power supply, if you want a stock version. They are expensive. I am trying to convince MBI to sell the PS's.  

Sent from my iPhone

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[Dan Newman]

FWIW, Bottleworks kindly sent me a prototype a couple of weeks ago which I have
been using on my Rep 2. It works quite well: I can successfully print ABS on my
Rep 2! I have even been using it for PLA, but at a much lower temp (~50C; blue
painter's tape). That's something Rep 1 and Thing-o-Matic owners who print in
PLA are known to do on occassion.

The Aluminum plate is nicely machined with insulation on the underside to keep
excess heat away from the Rep 2's stock ABS arms. The insulation works quite well,
although I've not put a temp sensor underneath to check -- just my fingers. (And
since the design is evolving, any quantitative numbers would not be representative
of the finished product anyway.)

Installation was very simple and didn't require any special tools -- just the hex
wrench shipped with the bot so that the electronics bay can be accessed. The Rep 2
motherboard already has the necessary connectors for the heated build surface's
wiring and the hookup there is simple as well. With the prototype I'm using, I
did not need to move my Z endstop nor add a shim to the Z axis assembly: tramming
the build surface worked fine without making changes.

And yes, I still have ABS arms on my Rep 2 but I will upgrade them soon.

Sailfish supports use of the HBP with the Rep 2. I don't see any reason why it
shouldn't work as well with MBI's firmware, although I have not tested that myself.

So far I've not had any problems using the upgrade and it is nicely designed and
executed. For the time being, I'm using my Rep 1's power supply.

Dan

[Dave Lockwood]

Awesome! Count me in as well!

[BTHOON]

I'm in

[Dan Newman]

That's the same PSU I've been planning to put in both my Rep 1 and Rep 2.
However, I've been planning to install a standard non-switched, fused,
non-filtered IEC-style A/C power entry receptacle as well (I have a box
of Schurter modules somewhere). That way, there's no dangling cord.
And non-switched, since I'd prefer that the family not get into the habit
of turning the bot off by turning off power to the PSU, leaving the
bot running for ~1 second on power below spec, possibly causing brown-out
related issues. I'll stick with a properly rated, easily accessible
switch on the side like Jetguy did. (And my Rep 1 also has the 5V linear
reg bypassed like Jetguy's and a switching DC/DC regulator used. Not
sure what Jetguy used for his.)

BTW, for 120VAC the contacts should be rated 5A or better since the PSU is
supplying 15A @ 24V (360W). While you might think that means 3A @ 120 VAC,
you need more since the PSU is not 100% efficient and you don't want to be
on the edge anyway. Me, I'll likely use a Schurter 6200.2100 which sells
for about $3 USD. (Shipping is more, but I have 'em around already.)

Nice thing about what Jetguy did is it avoids carrying the power brick around
as a separate item. You can of course, just velcro the MBI supplied brick to the
underside of the bot -- being mindful of cooling issues -- and get the same net
effect as regards transport issues.

Dan

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[RocketGuy]

I've been attempting to do something similar, including the magnets... And now I'll just save some time and say "me too". I'd buy in for it, with 2 glass plates and a meanwell P/S, tbd, assuming the cost is within reason.

Sudden revelation here- if the build platform is glass thermally pasted to the heater permanently(with or without a SS thermal spreader), heat times are reduced *significantly*. So why not make the heating element removable along with the glass? Magnets to mount it, sprung heavy contacts for the heater and thermistor? It would cost slightly more, but I'd be willing to pay it to save 5 minutes in each preheat, that adds up over time.

And then we could also have the second stage pre-heating outside the printer before the swap, even partially would save a huge amount of time.

I'm still in though, adding these refinements would truly make it the last stage needed, but starting from the bigger stage you propose would still save me time, I'd end up being in 2X I guess.

[Darrell jan]

OK, I'm in.

But what I'd really like is the "All Aluminum(with steel where necessary) Last 3D Printer you'll ever want"!  ;)

[Daniel Reetz]

I'm interested. The only real question for me is - how fast can I get it? Wink.

[Zach]

I'm in for a kit, depending on price.

[RoboSysop]

I'm in.

[Steven Castoe]

Take my money.

On May 18, 2013 12:01 AM, "Bottleworks" <bottlew...@gmail.com> wrote:

Introducing the last build plate you will ever need.  This is a 6 inch X 11 inch (152mm X 179mm) heated build plate. 

The build surface is a removable 3mm thick borosilicate glass secured to the heater plate by Neodymium Iron Boron (NdFeB) magnets recessed into the heater plate.  To remove, simply pull the build surface by the handles and remove from the machine.  Using glass as a build surface provides a clean, true, build surface. 

Having a removable build surface allows for easier removal of your finished prints and surface preparation (tape application, or other experimental adhesives). 

The heater plate is heated by a 130W heater controlled by the Replicator's Mightyboard.  This will be available for the Replicator 1, 2, and 2X machines.  Replicator 2 owners will have to upgrade their power supply to a higher amperage version.  Replicator 1 and 2X users can use their existing power supplies. 


Thoughts?  Who's interested? 

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[Eric]

I'm interested; I am curious to know if you can print without the tape, and would like more info on the power supply/hook ups. 

[Stan Velijev]

Yeah I'm interested if tape is necessary. I've bought both a glass plate and an aluminum plate so far, but both cannot be printed on without something covering them or a spray due to the heat conductivity of the surface shrinking and popping off the PLA. So sadly, I'm still on acrylic after 1000 print hours.

If it's heated then I don't see why that would be an issue - could you test out maybe an hour long build on bare heated glass?

Side note: I paid for arms about 2 weeks ago, are those shipping anytime soon?

[Eric Weber]

Cool. Count me in :-)

[Fastrack]

Wow... Just wow. But what on earth would I do with the 6 pieces of glass I already have from the group by!

I'm in depending on price.

Ben

[Nolightforyou]

I'd be interested in just getting the build surface if that was possible.... something that uses my existing BP on the Rep 2, but has a surface you can pop off and twist for easy-release.   Any possibility of something like that?

[Dan Newman]

On 19 May 2013 , at 8:58 AM, Nolightforyou wrote:

> I'd be interested in just getting the build surface if that was
> possible.... something that uses my existing BP on the Rep 2, but has a
> surface you can pop off and twist for easy-release. Any possibility of
> something like that?

Go to a local hardware store or glass shop and have them cut you a
rectangular piece of glass of similar dimensions to your acrylic
build plate. In the US, that costs about 10 USD.

Dan

[Anne McMills]

but it sounds like this new upgrade has a twistable surface that allows for easy release (unless I misread it).

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[Dan Newman]

On 19 May 2013 , at 9:02 AM, Anne McMills wrote:

> but it sounds like this new upgrade has a twistable surface that allows for
> easy release (unless I misread it).

You're confusing Bottleworks plate with DHeadricks plastic(?) film/coating
for placement over a build plate. This thread is about Bottlework's upgade
which uses a removable glass plate. Definitely not "twistable".

Dan

[Bottleworks]

I'll try to clarify somethings. 
1.  A power supply with a rating of 9.2A @ 24V (or higher amperage) Is fully sufficient.  That means from an OEM standpoint, the Replicator 1 and 2X power supplies.  This platform draws the same amount of current as a Replicator 2X platform.  My platform is also heated by a silicone heater.  It was engineered specifically to meet those criteria so there isn't a power supply or MightyBoard concern.  Using a higher amperage power supply allows you to perform additional modifications, but those don't have a direct relevance to this platform. 

2.  I will have replacement build surface assemblies available.  That will allow you to have build plates that are ready for use that can be quickly swapped out. 

3.  This is 3 mm thick borosilicate glass - it doesn't flex or warp.  That's the point of it.  It provides a true, flat surface, that doesn't warp overtime.

4.  You can use blue tape, Kapton tape, or -experimental adhesives-.  I personally don't use hair spray, as I find Kapton tape satisfactory, but this is the exact same type of glass that people successfully use hairspray with. 

5.  You do not have to use the aluminum arms (however they have their own benefits which are separate from this platform).  You can use the stock plastic arms.  The platform has a very good insulation on the underside that blocks a significant amount of heat from radiating downwards.  You can have the platform at 110°C and comfortably hold your hand up against the insulation.  It's an amazing insulator. 

[Dan Newman]

> 5. You do not have to use the aluminum arms (however they have their own
> benefits which are separate from this platform). You can use the stock
> plastic arms. The platform has a very good insulation on the underside
> that blocks a significant amount of heat from radiating downwards. You can
> have the platform at 110°C and comfortably hold your hand up against the
> insulation. It's an amazing insulator.

And on my Rep 2, I'm still using the ABS arms with this heated build plate.
No problems yet. And, it's a better situation than the Rep 1. The HBP
on the Rep 1 has the same wattage, 130W. BUT the HBP on the Rep 1 has no
insulation underneath it. So, on the stock Rep 1 there's more heat making
its way to the ABS arms. So, on the one hand using it with the stock ABS
arms is comparable to the Rep 1 (and likely Rep 2X) situation in as much as
it's the same wattage. On the otherhand, it's a better situation than on the
Rep 1 since insulation is installed.

Dan

[Bottleworks]

That's a very good point.  You end up being a winner with whichever situation (other then stock). 

[Bottleworks]

Replicator 2 users haven't experienced the benefits of having a heated build plate...  This will allow you to print in both ABS and PLA.  It also helps with getting PLA to stick to the build platform.  I'll let other users provide their experiences with PLA and heat. 

[Eric]

Dan: did the rep 1 arms warp over time? (this sounds like one of those self answering questions, but still curious). I'm also curious how much warping the rep2 arms will experience with this upgrade. 

The rep 2 arm upgrade is on my list, but a solid heated build plate is something that I would make first priority; granted I can achieve more that 500 hours printing before replacing the arms. 

So, Bottleworks, whats the price? :) 

[Dan Newman]

On 19 May 2013 , at 11:26 AM, Eric wrote:

> Dan: did the rep 1 arms warp over time? (this sounds like one of those self
> answering questions, but still curious).

A number of people reported that they warped. MBI had to replace the arms for
some people (e.g., Mark Cohen -- MakerGuy). At some point, MBI stated that
they changed them to a different ABS formulation which could withstand a bit
more heat. However, there's also the possibility of memory effects: if the
thermoplastic didn't cool uniformly in the injection mold, then there will be
internal stresses which will, over time relieve themselves. Warming accelerates
that process.

But will the warping, if you experience it, be enough to significantly impact
your prints? That's a YMMV situation. When I replaced the arms on my Rep 1
with Aluminum arms, I could see that they had warped some by placing them
alongside each other and seeing how out-of-true they were. However, it was
not enough to harm my prints (that I could tell). I replaced the arms because
of how bad the vibration was with that bot design. Other people definitely
had printing problems with their build surface demonstrably going out of
"level" during the course of a print.

> I'm also curious how much warping
> the rep2 arms will experience with this upgrade.

As above, YMMV. A number of people with Rep 1's used various forms
of insulation to help mitigate the issues they were seeing. Since this
plate comes with insulation, that should help considerable -- maybe even
eliminate it. To early to tell. And, if you have ABS arms with a lot
of internal stress in the plastic, then you are more at risk: an increased
chance of there being an issue. It doesn't mean the issue WILL happen.

Dan

[Guidozelf]

If you can make a deal with the arms for the Rep2 and ship it all in one go: count me in!

Looks fabulous! I've been working on a similar design recently, and I do have the bigger power supply already because of that.

But yours looks more sophisticated and: it's finished ;-)

Thumbs up!

Cheers, Guido

[Ticko]

I,m interested if price is okey. Using Replicator 1 and very happy that many of you are making upgrades like this :-) Thanks.

[Gerald Orban]

I'm tempted/interested. I have a pair of your arms as well and am waiting on the CNC milled extruder upgrade to ship (*nudge nudge* snoflake and Mr. Watson (; ). I haven't had any issues with my build platform since the arm upgrade but having a glass surface and the ability to easily remove the plate when needed sounds really great!

[Darrell jan]

If you're going to make a HBP/Arms combo available, maybe you'd need to know what printer everyone has? Mine is the original Replicator Dual.

[TobyCWoods]

Owning a rep2 and no experience with a hbp or abs leaves me with a question which I have asked before... Given a rep2...
Why does the hbp need to be controlled and powered via the bots mobo? Why can't it have it's own PS set up with a fixed temp and decoupled for the bots PS and controller?

[Dan Newman]

On 19 May 2013 , at 3:05 PM, TobyCWoods wrote:

> Owning a rep2 and no experience with a hbp or abs leaves me with a question which I have asked before... Given a rep2...
> Why does the hbp need to be controlled and powered via the bots mobo? Why can't it have it's own PS set up with a fixed temp and decoupled for the bots PS and controller?

Doesn't allow for unattended printing: what turns off the platform when the
print is done? Or what if you want the gcode to drop the print temp after
20 layers?

Dan

[Damian Gto]

There is little reason why you could not do what you say.

But I guess it is nice to be able to control it with Gcode.

But you could also build a controller for it with arduino that you piggyback the 3D printer.

[Carl]

Awesome work!

I can't wait to get the kit once it is available! :-)

[Bradley Pearce]

When is comes to the "could do this, could to that"... That also
equates to more cost. There is a balance of everything....It comes
down to what advantages do you gain for each extra dollar spent. If
an idea is fantastic and everyone wants one, but if no one can afford
it, it's a wasted idea. Everything could be made out of titanium,
but no one could afford it. So, it a balance. Adding an external
controller plus enclosure will probably add a good $30-40 in cost.
Low volume items cost a lot more then making 1k+ of a widget. It's
not worth it considering the current system works perfectly fine.

[Stan Velijev]

I'll ask again if tape or hairspray is necessary. You've mentioned it twice and someone else asked if just the glass plate could be used with heating.

If I have to use tape or spray then I don't quite see the point other than the option to use ABS.

And again,it's been 2 weeks since I ordered arms from you and haven't heard anything, could I have some sort of update on those?

[Bradley Pearce]

You have to use something - blue tape, kapton tape, hairspray, or
something else. That's standard.
1. The heat promotes a better hold.
2. It provides a better surface for Kapton tape to bond to. -The tape
tends to NOT pull away from the surface.
3. It also provides a flat surface that won't warp.
4. It's a surface that can easily be removed for surface prep and
post print removal.

The acrylic build plates on the Replicator 2 are not fully flat.
There are also reports that they permanently warp after printing a
larger object. The build plates on Replicator 2X also have been
reported to be warped from MBI. Over repeated heat cycles, I suspect
more users will be reporting excessive warp. And finally, the
Replicator 1 is warp happy. I've had mine replaced by MBI and it
warped within 10 heat cycles.


As for your arm order, you ordered with a ship date of June 1st. They
are shipping before that and in the order in which they were placed.
If you did not understand that or simply can't wait any longer, I'll
be happy to cancel your order and refund you.

[Eighty]

Stan,
His website does state this:

This is for preordering. The expected ship date is June 1, 2013. (This delay is mainly for waiting on bearings from China).

It was in a pretty small font, though, so I can understand if you didn't see it.

[_kyle]

Please count me in. I've been considering making my own HBP but I'd be psyched to let you do it for me.

[James Begera]

Count me in for my Replicator 2 and the ABS arm replacement as well. Where the "HERE'S HOW TO ORDER LINK" :)

[Stan Velijev]

Thanks for the info.

Guess I don't read through all of the order page since I ordered via an invoice. Last time I glanced at it I didn't notice the small font about the expected ship date.

Not complaining about the timing, just didn't know where to find info on when it'll ship.

There wasn't any mention when I ordered and hadn't gotten any updates nor saw anything in 7 page thread on here, so I just wanted to ask.

Still a little confused about the real advantage here over a flat glass or aluminum surface with tape/hs on it. Slightly better adhesion? Slightly easier maintenance?

Either way "last build plate I'd ever want" is one that doesn't need maintenance after every few builds, so maybe not ideal for me.

[James Harbal]

where does one find this heater plate that can be attached to the mightyboard?

[Bradley Pearce]

My hope is in your machine in about a month!  All jokes aside, I do hope to have this available-for-sale (and shipping) in one month. With the arms and this new platform, it's a lot to juggle, but I'm working on it!  

Sent from my iPhone

--

[Bottleworks]

A screen shot for you...

[Harrison]

Does that plate need to be trammed from above on the panhead screws? Are the thumb knobs still beneath the build platform?

[Ticko]

What about 3 point leveling the buildplate? Still 4?

[Bradley Pearce]

It's all 3 point!
The leveling system for all Replicator 2 & 2X machines are 3 point.
If this platform were to be installed in a Replicator 1, you would
have to convert to 3 point leveling.

On 5/23/13, Ticko <tedba...@gmail.com> wrote:
> What about 3 point leveling the buildplate? Still 4?
>

[Bottleworks]

That's the plan.  I pulled the trigger on two of the main components on Wednesday.

On Friday, May 24, 2013 9:28:53 AM UTC-4, Jordon Biondi wrote:

I am very interested.  So approximately one month till I can buy?

[Adam Nerva]

Please, please offer this as a complete package with power supply for Rep2 owners!

[Guidozelf]

Please make the power supply an option only for rep2 owners: I already have replaced mine for a 16Amps model. Probably more people have done similar things...

[Thomas Kulvik]

+1 on a complete upgrade-package. I'm holding my credit card. 

-Thomas

[Ticko]

The wait is soo long..This buildplate and 2 boro glas for quick change when printing a new part must be the best :-D Any updates on time,price?

[Zak Kus]

+1 for the Rep 1 kit. Almost missed this one. Love these bottleworks upgrades.

 My build plate decided to start a nice little bond fire around the connection, and now i am forced to use the primative super-warped-from-factory plate that shipped with early rep1s, so this is extra exciting (and a lovely build area increase no less!)

On Saturday, May 18, 2013 1:01:12 AM UTC-7, Bottleworks wrote:

[Bottleworks]

I've got to setup a shopping cart service on the server before I can have people order.  Too many variables, unlike the arm upgrades.  I'm going to try to have this done by the weekend.  I'm doing it on a remote server.  I'm not used to outsourcing hosting services...Weird... 

[Bradley Pearce]

Well, the heaters should be in route the second week of June. Custom
made part being shipped from China.
The first group of milled aluminum parts should be about 2 weeks.
The glass is a little up in the air...I expect the vender to be more
or less on track with the others. Then there are the little
bits/parts... Then assembly. So, a month is a safe timeline. What
if something crops up? Planning for unknowns can be impossible.

On 6/1/13, Lawrence Kwok <lawren...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Depending on cost, could be interested in up to 3-4, with extra plates if
> possible. Still a month out, or longer?

>
>
> On Saturday, May 18, 2013 4:01:12 AM UTC-4, Bottleworks wrote:
>>
>> Introducing the last build plate you will ever need. This is a 6 inch X
>> 11 inch (152mm X 179mm) heated build plate.
>>
>> The build surface is a removable 3mm thick borosilicate glass secured to
>> the heater plate by Neodymium Iron Boron (NdFeB) magnets recessed into the
>>
>> heater plate. To remove, simply pull the build surface by the handles and
>>
>> remove from the machine. Using glass as a build surface provides a clean,
>>
>> true, build surface.
>>
>> Having a removable build surface allows for easier removal of your
>> finished prints and surface preparation (tape application, or other
>> experimental adhesives).
>>
>> The heater plate is heated by a 130W heater controlled by the Replicator's
>>
>> Mightyboard. This will be available for the Replicator 1, 2, and 2X
>> machines. Replicator 2 owners will have to upgrade their power supply to
>> a
>> higher amperage version. Replicator 1 and 2X users can use their existing
>>
>> power supplies.
>>
>>
>> Thoughts? Who's interested?
>>
>

[MBuser]

Since I don't have a printer yet, the all-in-one upgrade package sounds great to get things together from the beggining, especially for 2 or 3 printers. And since my preference is for non-warped 7 inch ABS parts, a longer cool-down on the 2x would be preferred (can this be programmed?), and this extra time would make great use of additional plates to be prepped in the mean time.

[BTHOON]

Always loving my AL arms. Please do post when we can order. I've got a rep1 to buy this for.
If I need to do a mod to convert to 3 point leveling prior to installing this assembly, please tell me which mod to do and ill do it sooner rather than waiting.

Thanks!

[Tijl Dullers]

Count me in !

Op zaterdag 18 mei 2013 10:01:12 UTC+2 schreef Bottleworks het volgende:

[Bradley Pearce]

Here is the status on this project...

-  I've got almost everything but the glass.  I hope to have the glass within a week. They're local. 

-  If the glass arrives on time, I should be able to ship in about 2 weeks from today.  

-  I still haven't had time to setup an online store. I've had zero free time. It looks more like I'm going to have to use one of those "ready out of the box" shopping cart services. 

-  For those who are qualified and know what your doing, I can sell you one of those generic 10 amp power supplies. I can also provide the correct plug to attach your power source to the Mightyboard. This is only for those who are comfortable connecting mains voltage correctly to the power supply. 

-  for those that want the power supply which comes with the Replicator 1 & 2X, I can also supply you with that, however, it costs quite a lot. I'm not trying to make money on these power supplies. I would much prefer folks to source them independently, however, understand the needs of having one shipment. Please remember, replicator 1 & 2X users can use their stock power supplies. Only replicator 2 users need to upgrade their power supplies. 

I hope that covers it?  More soon...

Sent from my iPhone

--

[Michael Menefee]

I'm in for this and the CNC arms...

[BTHOON]

Sounds great!  I just wanted to make sure I know if I'm going to need to do a 3 point leveling mod to my Rep1 in order to take advantage of the new plate, and if so, which one should I do?

Thanks!

[Bradley Pearce]

Yes, Replicator 1 users will need to change over to 3 point. I'll
provide a template so you drill the hole in the right place.

>> <duller...@gmail.com<javascript:>>

>> makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>.

[Bottleworks]

Slowly Assembling...

[Jake Dambergs]

I'm very happy with the Aluminum arms, the dimensions were spot on, and the instructions made for an easy swap out.  My build plate was pretty darn flat to begin with but seems to have begun moving after about 15 hrs. printing.  I'm eagerly awaiting the release of this build plate.

My other problem is that my x motor assembly racks quite badly making a ton of noise and I expect will eventually need replacement.  I can't get the motor bolts as tight as I'd like as they simply sink into the plastic assembly though I think it may actually be the x rods moving.  Any chance of an aluminum replacement for this part?

Thanks!

Jake D

[Jetguy]

In the history of MakerBot and 3D printers in general, there has never, ever been a single motor failure. I mean do a search. Lot's opf people think they did, then found out it was anything but the motor. They are bulletproof.

 

Stepper motors have NO parts that wear out other than the ball bearings. It's possible to have a bad bearing but the motor failing is like a million to one or better.

Either you have the KNOWN to fail cable problem and that's not the motor, or you just hit the lottery and have the only reported motor failure in the history of the group.

[Jetguy]

Here's a link showing the problem and some fixes.

https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!searchin/makerbot/x$20cable/makerbot/5BOShhBAYWI/lZVthaGd6igJ

[Jake Dambergs]

Yeah, it's the plastic piece that the motor and the x rods attach to that I'm having the problem with, but I don't know what to call this piece - no problems with the motor or cable.  Thanks for the links though.

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[Jetguy]

The X axis end is what it's called. Contact MakerBot support and get them to send you one.

[_kyle]

Are you taking orders for these yet? I'm interested in the HBP and arms.

On Friday, June 14, 2013 1:06:55 PM UTC-7, Bottleworks wrote:

Slowly Assembling...

[Bradley Pearce]

I've got the web site mostly done.  I hope to have it up within the next 8 hours. 

Sent from my iPhone

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[Bottleworks]

The web site is up.  I've got to get some better photos and spend some more time on it, but for now, I need to get some sleep.

You can visit it at:
http://www.bctechnologicalsolutions.com/hbp/index.html

[Carl]

Awesome! When do you think you will be getting the uprated power supplies in stock for the Rep 2? I am itching to purchase the full set! :-)

[MBuser]

This looks great. Is the glass blue?

[Ticko]

Great work!
Just ordered!

[Michael Menefee]

Dumb question: the 2X's build plate is 160mm (6.3 in) in the "Y" direction.  Yours is 152.  Do I need to edit some parameters or otherwise mod a 2X to make this work? (in other words, can I tell the machine its build plate shrunk a bit in one dimension?)

[David Celento]

NICE JOB!

Tried to order for Rep2, but the link may be kerfluey? The price was less and it appeared to be the arms so I'm posting here first.

Coulda been a mobile issue... or me being half asleep after working all night!

~Dave

[Jetguy]

Sure, you could edit the config but understand that does NOTHING to prevent you from building something larger than the plate or even what the machine can take before running into the end of the axis. Simply put, it depends on you the user being smart enough not to try and build something too large at gcode creation time.

 

The only thing changing size does is change the size of the grid bottom in Replicator-G or Makerware and maybe, just maybe, it will throw you a warning if you exceed the limit. The bot will attempt to print whatever gcode you send it.

 

The thing you should understand is the coordinate system and how it works.

XYZ, 0,0,0 is the nozzle dead center of the machine and the bed with the nozzle at your trammed start height.

No matter what you do to the bed, 0,0,0 is still the same spot.

So when you print something that is say 100 x100 mm, That means it goes X+50 and X-50 assuming you centered it.

If the bed is now 10mm shorter no big deal, just keep in mind, you cannot print anything bigger than that.

 

So no, changing the bed size does not require a change to any setting, just a healthy dose of common sense that always needed to be applied before the change.

[BTHOON]

When you wake up, there's a typo on the build area measurement. Should be 279mm, but says 179.

Gave me a bit of pause there lol

[Bradley Pearce]

--
I will add some info on power supplies. I can provide a generic 10
amp power supply which you have to correctly wire up. You need to
know what you're doing with that one. I can also provide the power
plug to plug into the Mightyboard. This solution is much cheaper, but
you need to know what your doing.

The other solution is the stock power supply from a Rep1/2X. A Mean
Well Brand P/N GS220A24-R78. This is a drop in replacement, but the
disadvantage is that it costs a lot more.

I highly encourage you to buy a power supply off eBay or someone else.
I can provide them and I will be selling them my cost. Keep in mind,
that with my costs factored, in they will cost more then if you just
go on eBay and buy direct from a Chinese reseller. I have to cover
the PayPal fees and the shipping to me.

--

The 179mm vs 279mm typo has been fixed. Thanks for catching that.

--

The glass is clear. When I first took those photos, I put the blue
tape on the glass so you could see the glass better. The photos are
junk, IMO. I'm going to take some better photos and post them. The
only difference in what you see today, vs what will ship is the left
handle. The left handle will be longer then the right handle due to
dual extruder machines. If you use the right extruder, and are
printing on the left edge of the build surface, the left nozzle will
sometimes be off to the left. So, the additional clearance is needed.

--

The 4-6 weeks is some default I must have entered in the PayPal
system. I should be shipping by the end of the month or sooner. I'll
correct the PayPal note.

--

Yes, as Jetguy said, you don't to. Myself, I haven't taken the time
to do so yet. It's just an edit in the machine definition in RepG. I
or someone else can post some info on how to update that.
On that note, I believe Replicator 2 users will have to be using
Sailfish to make use of the HBP. Maybe someone with MBI firmware can
confirm that for me.

--

CalTech folks - Yikes, those are some smart folks! I was hoping to
have the price point lower, but the cost of the components is quite
high. Higher than I initially thought it would be. Same with the
replacement Glass build surface.

You can visit it at:
http://www.bctechnologicalsolutions.com/hbp/index.html

[Adam Nerva]

Hey Bradley, thanks for the info. But I think that's R7B on the model number, not R78... I just grabbed one off ebay!