Makerbot rep2... What causes this failure?

[Dave Sammons]

Oh great and powerful makerbot geniuses....


Here is my problem.   everything fails lately.  Weak layers, I have adjusted the temperature, leveled the plate... *replaced* the build plate.   taken everything apart and put it back together.  I have been in contact with makerbot support for about a 2 weeks now, and have not gotten any closer to a solution.  I have orders I need to finish, this thing has to get working again!


What causes this failure?  too much heat? not enough?  jam somewhere?  some clue please!

I have attached a print of glasses frames, and the build leveler

[Joseph Chiu]

Have you calibrated for your filament diameter and packing density?  Have you tried a different spool?

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[Dave Sammons]

Yes!  I have tried three different filaments, one from makerbot 2 from elsewhere with same results,  all measured within 1.73-1.76

[Steve Medwin]

Did you try tightening the set screw that holds the knurled wheel to the stepper motor in the extruder?

[Ryan Carlyle]

Did you try NEW filament? Like, unopened from the vacuum sealed package? If you store all your spools the same way, they could all have absorbed moisture.

Extruder fan pointing the right way? (Sticker not visible.)

Does filament curl to the side when you load, or drop straight down? Curling means nozzle debris.

Did you calibrate packing density or feedstock multiplier? (Very important) IE with 100% infill calibration boxes.

What print settings? Temp, speed, etc.

[Steve_Criz]

Nobody game to ask whether he's tried "the Canola oil" solution to certain print errors like those shown here?

Not even Makerbot by the sounds of it...

[Dave Sammons]

I did NOT try canola oil, should I? what exactly do I with it?  at this point I am game for deep frying the printer.

[Dave Sammons]

Yes, new filament, straight from the bag

I have previously installed my fan backwards, I know which way to do it now.

hmmm, it does slightly curl sometimes, not all the time, the flow is constant though, perhaps I will try clearing it again.   Is there a better way than the manually pushing a section through and pulling it out repeatedly?

Calibration, I did both the flat squares and the cube, the cube did not print, failed at 25% in a stringy mess.

I am using makerware.  default settings for speed, Temp we have varied from 190 to 235 depending on filament, and have experimented with various temps.

[d-oo-b]

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111711

Deep frying wont help i guess but i was close to do it as well. Instead i replaced the filament transport and filament. Also i make sure the filament spool is running freely and easy and not loaded to heavy (500g) or get stuck by blocking itself. I do not know what did the job finally but it works now on my 2x.

I still regret having bought this machine but that's what i spent d my $$ on and i try to make the best with it.

If anyone knows where i can get THERMOCOUPLES for it for a decent price i will be happy to hear about it.

Makerbot charges for delivery to europe $100 it is an issue for me for a wire they sell for $30 (i can buy a type K in store for 50ct, but i cannot weld it) 

[Waltermixxx]

Spark fun has thermo couples that folks here tend to use.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/251

:)

[Waltermixxx]

On Thursday, August 7, 2014 8:12:40 AM UTC-4, Waltermixxx wrote:

Spark fun has thermo couples that folks here tend to use.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/251

even better check out this gentlemen's video on upgrades for the rep 2.  in it he mentions the thermocouples. :) 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvBLOmRXF0U

[Waltermixxx]

http://www.adafruit.com/products/270   <- thermocouple as well :) the one he links to in his comments under the video on youtube :)

[d-oo-b]

thank you this info makes my life a lot easier :)

On Thu, Aug 7, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Waltermixxx <walter....@gmail.com> wrote:

http://www.adafruit.com/products/270   <- thermocouple as well :) the one he links to in his comments under the video on youtube :)

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[Ryan Carlyle]

Short version, put a bit of canola oil (or peanut or whatever, not olive, something with a high smoke point) on a sponge or paper towel. Wipe down a foot or so of the end of the filament prior to loading. Some people dip the tip in oil but I think that's overkill. You just need a thin film of oil. Load the filament and let it run for a while. (Run through the stuff you oiled.)

This will lubricate the inside of the thermal barrier, helping to keep jams from sticking. It also acts as a heat transfer medium to help keep filament cool and solid above the melt zone. (Reduce "heat creep" and retraction related issues.) This isn't a guaranteed fix, but it's remarkably effective for some people.

[Joe Soap]

One other, possibly more convenient, way to apply canola oil is using a
filament cleaner such as this:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52203

There are other similar cleaners on thingiverse.

Just a couple of drops on the sponge does the job. And if you need to
re-apply you can add more drops in the future without fuss. However, DO
NOT OVERLOAD WITH CANOLA OIL - it just needs a smear, it doesn't need to
be smothered.

It's a good idea to run the filament thru a sponge filter like this as
it enters the bot anyway - you don't want any dust or debris getting
inside the nozzle area, because that will lead to clogs which could be
hard to remove.

On 07/08/2014 18:55, Ryan Carlyle wrote:
> Short version, put a bit of canola oil (or peanut or whatever, not olive, something with a high smoke point) on a sponge or paper towel. Wipe down a foot or so of the end of the filament prior to loading. Some people dip the tip in oil but I think that's overkill. You just need a thin film of oil. Load the filament and let it run for a while. (Run through the stuff you oiled.)
>
> This will lubricate the inside of the thermal barrier, helping to keep jams from sticking. It also acts as a heat transfer medium to help keep filament cool and solid above the melt zone. (Reduce "heat creep" and retraction related issues.) This isn't a guaranteed fix, but it's remarkably effective for some people.
>

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[Dave Sammons]

I would love to point the humor of giving me a part to print... on a printer that does not print.

Printer is apart right now, did the nozzle clearing stuff (poke and pull) will do a blob next and hope it does not remove my thermal tape.  Will oil it and see if that helps.

if not I will just deep fry the whole printer.

[Dave Sammons]

See attached, re-assembled printer, re-leveled plate, feed it a tiny drop of oil on the filament
got this results.... which means?

[Joseph Chiu]

Try running the plate a hair lower (about 1/16th of a turn of the screw) all around, and maybe just a little bit more on the right.  You might be a hair too close.