I'm not opposed to helping Makerbot Industries or anything like that,
but if I can manage to save $12 on a cable I could rig myself, I'd
like to. Hell, that's the point of the whole machine. I'm hard-
pressed to believe there's really something magical about a USB to TTL
cable that makes it cost $20 from every source online. So what do you
think? Could I order one of these little jobbers and run my own
wiring for it and have it magically work? I have 7 billion pounds of
spare parts and wires and things around, I can make this work.
Side question, unrelated -- can someone confirm that Kapton tape does
in fact ship in the Basic Cupcake kit?
Thanks a million, I love all of you.
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What's "magical" about the USB2TTL cables and boards most folks carry is that they are based on FTDI chips. Drivers are available for Mac, Linux and Windows and their limitations are reasonably well understood.
Pick your poison. ;-)
Andrew.
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"The future is already here. It's just not very evenly distributed" -- William Gibson
Worst that'll happen is you spend another $20c if it doesn't work out, while adding knowledge and diversity to fab-culture. Go for it! :)
On Mar 30, 2010 10:39 AM, "Andrew Plumb" <and...@plumb.org> wrote:
It'll probably work as long as the only platform you want to use it on is (probably) Windows. Hard to say with that RAR-encoded file they provide and without schematics.
What's "magical" about the USB2TTL cables and boards most folks carry is that they are based on FTDI chips. Drivers are available for Mac, Linux and Windows and their limitations are reasonably well understood.
Pick your poison. ;-)
Andrew.
On 2010-03-30, at 1:02 AM, Pete is Colorbroken wrote: > THIS? http://www.mdfly.com/index.php?mai...
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"The future is already here. It's just not very evenly distributed" -- William Gibson
Me: http://clothbot.com/wiki/
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That's a really handy link! I have been looking for something like
that for some other Arduino-y projects - I'd personally rather have
TTL levels than 3.3v levels, but for the cost (under $5, shipped), I
might just get a couple to hack around with.
$20 each is, to me, not a disposable price - I'd be inclined to keep
the cable with the host. $5 each, OTOH, is cheap enough to have one
cable per project. Yes, I understand that I can't just unpackage the
Nokia cable and plug it in and that my time is worth "something", but
the savings to me comes not from doing it once for one Makerbot but
from embedding a hacked Nokia cable in project after project.
Thanks for the tip!
-ethan
I ordered a few CA-42s myself. I'll report back with my findings as well.
-ethan
--
My $3.50 CA-42s arrived much earlier than expected. Plugging one into
a Linux box (CentOS 5.3) gives...
usbcore: registered new driver usbserial
drivers/usb/serial/usb-serial.c: USB Serial support registered for generic
usbcore: registered new driver usbserial_generic
drivers/usb/serial/usb-serial.c: USB Serial Driver core
drivers/usb/serial/usb-serial.c: USB Serial support registered for pl2303
pl2303 6-2:1.0: pl2303 converter detected
usb 6-2: pl2303 converter now attached to ttyUSB0
usbcore: registered new driver pl2303
drivers/usb/serial/pl2303.c: Prolific PL2303 USB to serial adaptor driver
... so I anticipate no issues. ISTR the CA-42 uses 3.3V signal
levels, but that should work fine with a Sanguino (but I wouldn't be
able to program the Extruder controller unless I power it
independently of the cable).
-ethan
Tearing one apart, the cable has three wires, but the insides are
nothing like the ones on the previously mentioned webpages. This is a
seriously-cost-reduced part. The chip is directly mounted to the PCB
and covered in an epoxy bubble - quite common on cheap parts.
Fortunately, the PCB also has a full description of the signals. They
are:
GND, RxD, TxD (all used), CTS, RTS, 5V, DTR, RI, DCD, and DSR (all
blank). There's a couple of solder blobs connecting features, marked
S1 and S2. There's also four component spots blank, Q1 (SOT-23), R2,
R3, and R4 (604 sized, it appears).
This part looks good for basic comms with no hacking (just a new
connector for the Makerbot), or for programming with the cable
upgraded to 6 pins. Unfortunately, the packaging is a blue molded
soft plastic, not a polystyrene 2-part clamshell, but it might not be
too hard to print a replacement housing after destroying the original.
Thanks for the original suggestion for the CA-42 - I have a number of
Arduino and serial LCD projects that need something like this, and it
should be good for a Makerbot, too.
-ethan
- Jonathan
On Apr 3, 7:10 pm, Ethan Dicks <ethan.di...@gmail.com> wrote:
pete