Re: Heated build platform for a Replicator 2?

[Eric Cheung]

I second the OP. I'm playing with Nylon, and it looks like a heated bed is quite important.

The Rep 2X would have heated bed I heard. I hope the the hardware in the Rep 2 already has connections for it, making for an easier upgrade path.

[Dan Newman]

> The Rep 2X would have heated bed I heard. I hope the the hardware in the
> Rep 2 already has connections for it, making for an easier upgrade path.

Rep 2 (MightyBoard revG) has hookups for a heated bed (inputs to read
a 100K ntc thermistor; 24V outputs to drive the heater). You just have
to set the "has_hbp" EEPROM byte at 0x04C to the value 0x01 to tell the
firmware you have an HBP installed. (You may be able to set that from
MakerWare.)

Dan

[Wade Shepherd]

Interesting. I'll have to look into this. I read earlier today that the next gen cubify machine can print in both abs and pla but has a frosted glass build platform. Is it possible they found a way to make abs stick to glass with no heat? I'm not sure if my article was accurate but I was curious.

[Jetty]

Just to note, if planning on putting an HBP on a Rep 2. Although the
Motherboard looks like it
has support for it, the stock PSU is only rated for 6.25 Amp versus
the Rep1 9.2Amp.

Also, the Rep2 platform is larger, which would consume more Amps if
you're going for the same size
/ design.

Seeing as the HBP is a big component of the current draw, before
slapping on a HBP it would be
wise to get at least a bigger PSU and check the current draw of all
the hardware, being that the Rep 1
is pretty close to the limit and does some power sharing amongst
components because the load is
near the limit.

[Wade Shepherd]

Ok thanks for the tip, I'll probably contact makerbot before I would even consider trying something.

[Bottleworks]

No, the glass can be heated.  The glass is very flat.  That's the advantage. 

On Wednesday, March 6, 2013 12:19:59 PM UTC-5, Fred von Stein wrote:

I've had the Rep 1 since August 2012, and I've been printing ABS/PLA on the HBP. Recently I wanted to see about printing Nylon. I stumbled across this Google Group and signed up for notifications. One thing I notice is that the Rep 1 people are looking to get a borosilicate glass plate "upgrade", which is not heated, and the Rep 2 people are looking to get a heated build platform. What gives, why is it that the grass is always greener on the other side? 

[happyman]

I am wondering if  placing enclosure over Rep2 (something like acrylic box) and then use the portable heater to heat the air inside. This method is known to be used by Stratasys on their Dimension machine without HBP while maintaining temperature at 70c. Can this method help ABS warping in someway?
 

On Tuesday, January 8, 2013 12:24:24 AM UTC+7, Wade Shepherd wrote:

Anyone know if someone plans to sell one or how to make one. I just thought it would be neat to play with ABS plastic as well. This is my first 3d printer and am just looking to play.

[Flint Olsen]

I noticed that too, their method seems to work fine. I'm wondering if we could set up a post-print acetone injection system to polish off the print while the chamber temperature is still warm!

[James V]

While it's not quite a heated build plate, I've found that a cold plate causes problems for the build. I've come up with a little hack that I think works well, so I thought I'd share it.

Take a ziplock bag and add a couple napkins or a wash cloth, plus enough water to saturate. Microwave it for 30 seconds or until hot, then rest it on the build plate while the extruder heats, being watchful that you remove it before the print starts.I've had a lot fewer failed prints since I started utilizing this method, so I hope it helps a few of you out.

[Eighty]

Wow, hadn't heard that one before. Prior to getting Bottleworks' HBP, I would remove my glass plate, spray hairspray in it, use a hair dryer to thoroughly dry the plate (plus warm it up as much as possible), then slap it in just before printing. The warmth would help the first layer stick better.
Now, I just set the HBP to 40C, spray the plate, and let it dry up as the extruder and HBP get up to temp.