glue coming apart

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Marcus Wolschon

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Jun 23, 2011, 2:55:55 PM6/23/11
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Did the glue on the arc holding the extruder come apart on your TOMs
too? (Left and right side)
This seems to be the only part that is not held in place by nuts and
bolts and it does not
survive moving your TOM and came apart even during printing just due
to all the shaking.

What did you do against it?
I'm thinking of designing a replacement part that simple combines the
2 glued
plexi-glass parts into one ABS part (and maybe even extends to the
third bolt-hole
to properly mount the toolhead not just on one but in 2 dimensions. So
it can no longer
shake front to back with the heavy stepper motor on top.)

Marcus

Aaron Double

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Jun 23, 2011, 2:58:11 PM6/23/11
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Makerblock posted a printable version a while ago:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5228

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Bill Culverhouse

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Jun 23, 2011, 3:37:36 PM6/23/11
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The acetone most people use on their ABS prints is also
(mostly) what acrylic glue is made of. It melts/welds
acrylic. Use the same procedure you used with the
superglue to align the nuts to the hole and use a
couple of drops of acetone. The plastic will break
before the bond will. Not sure why they keep telling
people to use superglue on acrylic. It doesn't work
well.
 
You will need to make sure you got the super glue completely
off. Of course.
 
-b

Marcus Wolschon

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Jun 23, 2011, 3:43:28 PM6/23/11
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Thanks a lot!

Marcus

naug...@nauglanch.com

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Jun 23, 2011, 4:44:39 PM6/23/11
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Methylene Chloride is handy unadulterated acrylic cement. Water thin.
Wicks in to those cracks. glues those pieces. That said, it's harder
to get; got a few ounces from a chemist friend (anyone working in any
bio/med/materials lab should have it).

Chris Wundram

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Jun 23, 2011, 5:16:40 PM6/23/11
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I use TAP Acrylic cement, or WeldOn, both of which can be purchased
from TAP plastics. Works much better than super glue with acrylic,
and should also work with styrene and ABS.

Marcus Wolschon

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Jun 24, 2011, 5:05:13 AM6/24/11
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Thanks for the info.
The parts worked.
They worked.
However I needed to use the Dremel quite a lot.
They where more then just a snug fit. ;)
Even the M8 hole that could have had any size <M10
needed re-cutting. ;(
(Just so the next one reading this thread with a similar issue knows
what to expect.)

http://marcuswolschon.blogspot.com/2011/06/thing-o-matic-glue-coming-apart.html

Marcus

Mark Summers

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Jun 24, 2011, 5:10:31 AM6/24/11
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I originally used hot glue (out of laziness).  This seemed to be working but, in hindsight, how stupid was I?  It was warming and hence becoming soft during prints, from the heat of the air surrounding the extruder.  This was affecting print accuracy without me realising it.  Of course, eventually, the glue bonds gave up entirely and the extruder came away from the rest of the printer.

I then went to the other extreme, using binary adhesive "Plastic Weld" that comes in a double syringe, designed to dispense exactly the right amount of resin and cataylst.

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Zip Zap

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Jun 24, 2011, 6:25:11 PM6/24/11
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Ever tried Loctite Super Glue?  That thing bonds in 5 seconds.  Don't get the cheap 99 cent variety.  Those are crap. 



From: Mark Summers <woma...@gmail.com>
To: make...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, June 24, 2011 2:10:31 AM
Subject: Re: [MakerBot] glue coming apart

Robert Hunt

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Jun 25, 2011, 8:01:41 AM6/25/11
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I used some superglue when I put mine together back in December 2010
and it hasn't moved once. I did rough up the surface a little before
though which helped.

On Jun 24, 11:25 pm, Zip Zap <zzap...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Ever tried Loctite Super Glue?  That thing bonds in 5 seconds.  Don't get the
> cheap 99 cent variety.  Those are crap.  
>
> ________________________________
> From: Mark Summers <womag...@gmail.com>
> To: make...@googlegroups.com
> Sent: Fri, June 24, 2011 2:10:31 AM
> Subject: Re: [MakerBot] glue coming apart
>
> I originally used hot glue (out of laziness).  This seemed to be working but, in
> hindsight, how stupid was I?  It was warming and hence becoming soft during
> prints, from the heat of the air surrounding the extruder.  This was affecting
> print accuracy without me realising it.  Of course, eventually, the glue bonds
> gave up entirely and the extruder came away from the rest of the printer.
>
> I then went to the other extreme, using binary adhesive "Plastic Weld" that
> comes in a double syringe, designed to dispense exactly the right amount of
> resin and cataylst.
>
> http://soundcloud.com/womagridhttp://www.womagrid.comhttp://www.myspace.com/womagrid

David Smith

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Jun 25, 2011, 10:21:33 AM6/25/11
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Roughing up the surfaces is key to appropriately strong cyanoacrylate (super glue) bonds.  Cyanoacrylate glues also degrade over time, so you want to buy small tubes and use them fresh.  Many model-builders store cyanoacrylate adhesives in the freezer to prolong their shelf life. 

Acetone welding is definitely the strongest method of attaching parts, but there is no inherent reason why CA bonds should not be plenty strong enough to withstand torque and vibration.  I used CA because I had it and could either use it and finish the build or wait to get acetone.

Dave Smith

Mark Cohen

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Jun 25, 2011, 2:28:53 PM6/25/11
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I have 5 of these all glued with ca and so far no issues, but I'll watch for it.

Sent from my iPad
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