Firmware issues with Replicator 1

[Nancy Elisabeth]

Hello everyone, I am new to 3D printing and working with electronics in general so I apologize if I use the wrong terminology. I've been assigned the task of trying to fix my office's Makerbot Replicator, which stopped working this past April. The machine will start up but the interface is messed up and only displays black blocks. I have been assured by the person who worked with it previously that is it not a hardware issue but a firmware problem, so I opened a support ticket with Makerbot to try and get to the bottom of it. I was sent a MacBot Tool 9000 v1.0, which recognizes the Replicator when the USB is plugged into my laptop but which cannot locate the firmware update to upload. The entire 'browse' window is blank, even if I look for MacBot specifically. I've emailed Makerbot support back but I think they didn't understand what my problem was and my shift is ending soon so I thought I would try here to see if anyone has any suggestions! I searched through the previous posts but there seems to be nothing similar, though I am wondering if the new release of MakerWare 1.1 would help? Or trying Sailfish? Or whether trying to build a new interface off of Thingiverse would be the best option? There doesn't seem to be any mods to the Replicator and it was only in use from September 2012 to April 2013, with an estimated 20 - 30 hours of total lifetime build on it.

I would appreciate any help!

Thank you!

[Jetguy]

We need a few more details.

Does the bot make startup sounds when you turn it on (play the MakerBot song)?

 

Understand that  there are actually 2 processors in the bot. The first one is the 8u2 that the USB port is plugged into. If you see that when you connect to a computer the bot shows up, that means the 8u2 is working. But all that chip does is creates a USB to COM port (remember old serial ports  on computers before USB?).

The main processor that actually runs the bot and controls the LCD is an atmega1280.

What happens is that maybe someone tried to update the 1280 and messed it up with bad code or a bad sequence.

The problem is, there is a tiny bit of code called a bootloader. Normally, chips can  ONLY be programmed with a special programmer device. The bootloader code starts the instant the chip is turned on and would allow for programming without a programmer over the USB to serial communications path.

So likely, not only do you have non-working code on the bot, but you also likely have corrupted with bootloader and therefore cannot flash via the normal update process.

 

Further, MakerBot support didn't help you out. They gave you a tool for the newer series of mainboards in the Replicator 2 series of bots. That tool cannot fix your problem if the bootloader is corrupt.

 

Now, the way to fix is not impossible, but you do need a programmer to do it. You have to flash the bootloader to the chip using an AVR programmer. Here is an example programmer http://www.amazon.com/SparkFun-Pocket-AVR-Programmer/dp/B004G54E9I/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A30ZYR2W3VAJ0A

 

But, let's also be realistic here. The Replicator 1 is KNOWN to blow up the electronics. You have a suspect situation. The best thing you could do long term is to send that board to one of us to perform the procedure and replace the regulator known to kill the board.

Heck  I'll do it for free, but you either have to send me the bot or send me the board. I'm all for keeping these old machines alive as I think they are better than the new machines if you fix this problem.

 Here is the part we replace http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/OKI-78SR-5%2F1.5-W36-C/811-2196-5-ND/2259781 

As you can see, they are all of $5 for a lot of peace of mind.

 

 

Alternatively, maybe a member of the group is near you and can help.

[Joe Smith]

Hello. Please excuse my ignorance with this question! So, all you need to do is swap the regulator out with the one you mentioned from digikey? Do you have to add or modify any other part of the mightyboard to prevent it from blowing up??  Thanks!

[Jetguy]

That's pretty much the big fix.

The problem is, the onboard one has an odd pinout compared to this one which is standard 7805 layout.

That means you'll have to deadbug the regulator

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point-to-point_construction

[Jetguy]

Here is an example of how I did mine. Note, the yellow capacitor looking thing is actually a fuse http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RXE-065/RESETTABLE-CIRCUIT-PROTECTOR-0.65-1.3-AMP/1.html.

The tab of the old regulator (the big pad) is the 5 volts. I wired the new regulator to a better ground point and the just picked up the 24V at the switch.

That fuse in the pic replaces the jumper wire from 5 volts to the input of the 3.3 volt regulator for the SD card.

 

[Nancy Elisabeth]

Thank you so much Jetguy! It's great to have the issues so succintly explained haha. If I were to send you the board, where are you and how long would it take? I am doing this for my university's lab so they may actually want me to try and sort it myself....do you have any guides or how-tos? I need to flash the bootloader to the chip and then replace the regulator?


Thanks again!

[Nancy Elisabeth]

Oh, and yes the Replicator has a series of beeps when I turn it on! Does that mean my issue is still the atmega1280? Should I try and get a programmer first and then sort out the main board? I am in Canada by the way, I don't know if that changes the availability of products to help or what but I thought I would let you know!

Thanks!

[Jetguy]

If it beeps , then the mainboard is running code indicating likely, you have another problem. It could be the ribbon cable not seated at either end or it still could be some other issue.

That said, you should be able to follow the update directions and attempt to update the firmware.

[Nancy Elisabeth]

I"m sorry Jetguy, I don't understand- follow the update directions for the newest MakerWare? Should I have a look at the motherboard first and see if I can identify any loose cables or connectors? I could take a photo of the board and upload it if that helps!

[Jetguy]

OK, the bot has firmware, a piece of code that runs the microprocessor. We THINK but do not know if yours is  working. We think it is because it does make the startup tones and that being a fairly complicated function, means the code is not just dying in theory.

We have a mixed set up results right now that your LCD is NOT working but we do get the tones. Further, you've said that when you plug the bot into the computer it is detected and loads the device driver.

So, with all that, we SHOULD be able to update the firmware by following the standard directions.

http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/documentation/firmware/

[Nancy Elisabeth]

So this is what I have for the board I think- I am not sure how to take it off the bottom of the Replicator without damaging anything, do you have any advice?

[Jetguy]

No need to remove it.

The BIG WIDE grey cable is what goes to the LCD.

Make sure it is seated fully at both this board, and the LCD board that is up in the main area at the front of the bot.

 

As far as replacing the regulator, this fix here describes how to disable the onboard one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:78598/#instructions

Also, read all my posts in this thread https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/Qpzv6f8wJPs/qxJZZED69lMJ

[Nancy Elisabeth]

Hey Jetguy! I got the screen issue sorted, the reset button on the Replicator was loose and so trying to upload new firmware didn't work until I fixed it. So my Replicator Dual is now up and running! But of course, there are still some problems, I was hoping you could help me figure out how to level the platform? I follow the directions, but as you can hopefully see from some of the photos I have attached the extruder's nozzles are uneven on their own time and when I try to level the platform, the right nozzle cuts into the kapton tape. I was reading somewhere about 'shimming' the extruder?

And the two prints I have attempted have both suffered from jumping around, currently the Replicator Dual I have has a tempered plastic build platform with kapton tape on it only, is this where I should be spraying hairspray? Also, on the two prints part of the raft or first layer started to curl up in the corners before the prints were cancelled due to the jumping around, will the hairspray help with the corners curling? Right now the build platform's temperature is at 110 degrees and it is running the Makerbot firmware at 7.5.

Please let me know where I can clarify what I or the machine is doing! So far the left extruder hasn't done anything, though I haven't printed a two-colour test yet because I am concerned about the build plate. Since the last time I tried to level it the right nozzle cut up the kapton tape, I am trying to figure out what is going on with the least amount of risk to the machine.

Thank you so much! The photos were too big to attach so I've made an imgur album here: http://imgur.com/a/8h9VH

[Jetguy]

Well, step 1 is enabling the second extruder in the firmware via onboard preferences via the software or alternatively, use the bot's LCD menu under general settings?

Understand the only difference between a dual and a single is the number of extruders so the firmware is the same. It defaults to 1 extruder. So you flashed new firmware, it's defaulted to 1.

You MUST power cycle the bot (turn off, turn on) for that to take effect.

That's why nothing happened with the left extruder.

Next, you MUST follow the directions to adjust the nozzles so they match. Generally I actually go further and make the left nozzle higher up (more space between the bed) by 1 notebook sheet of paper because it's rare to actually use dualstrusion.

So again, follow the instructions using the shim method http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/troubleshooting/nozzle-shim/ It's got pictures and everything but you are going to have to get brave here and pick up tools and do this if you want to print.

 

That said, I am concerned that somebody took the nozzles off at one point in time and may not have ensured the thermal barrier tube is seated against the nozzle. If you can rotate the entire heater block and nozzle by hand (the yellow Kapton tape covered part) then that is a bad thing!! Again the reason why I suspect this is the nozzles should have been the same height, no shimming required. If they are off, then someone messed with this part of the assembly. http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/troubleshooting/nozzle-swap/

The point here is that the stainless metal tube MUST seal to the threaded part of the nozzle inside the aluminum heater block. Incorrect assembly here makes plastic leak into the threads making this even more of a disaster to fix since you must heat and work on the assembly hot if there is plastic in the threads. It's one of those unforgiving parts of the machine. You cannot make mistakes here- at least not without consequences.

 

Now, once you get that sorted, the first prints should just be normal single extrusion prints to get you familiar with the machine and then work up to dual prints.

And, the FIRST THING to print is the extruder upgrade!!!!! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35810 

The single best thing you can do is dump the plunger systems and upgrade the filament feeder.

Also, know that this is the next known problem area- the setscrew http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTILBAz0A1k 

 

Also, David's 3 in 1 extruder upgrade solves BOTH of the above problems https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1_Hldkb6gS96iStf2LNvGzFXtQDuw566zlBzj3yll4IE/viewform

It replaces the entire plunger system. It moves the motor back slightly and moves the pinch wheel forward where the setscrew can engage the flat on the motor shaft.

[Nancy Elisabeth]

Excellent, thanks! I checked for the second extruder in the general setting on the bot and it said dual, and then when I checked in ReplicatorG it said dual again so I assume that is fine now? I've attached a screenshot because I am a little worried about the "unverified Mightyboard" thing, do you know what that might be about?

And I will try today to adjust the nozzles to match! I was told that nobody had touched the machine since April until I started working on it, is there a way for me to check that the stainless steel tube is sealed while I am adjusting the nozzles? I would definitely prefer not to have melted plastic all up in this haha. And the kapton covered part, I think it is called the build platform? It isn't completely rotatable by hand, it's the four knobs that the bot instructs you to adjust that have made it not level. Just eyeballing the strepstruder the left nozzle is noticeably higher than the right, I should be raising the right side to match?


Once the nozzles are sorted I will start on the rest, and I will try and get authorization for the 3 in 1 extruder upgrade! Thank you so much for your help.

[Dan Newman]

On 22/11/2013, 12:23 PM, Nancy Elisabeth wrote:
> Excellent, thanks! I checked for the second extruder in the general setting
> on the bot and it said dual, and then when I checked in ReplicatorG it said
> dual again so I assume that is fine now? I've attached a screenshot because
> I am a little worried about the "unverified Mightyboard" thing, do you know
> what that might be about?

That's noise and means only that RepG didn't see something it wanted to
see. If you reset the motherboard completely, it may make RepG show it
as "verified" but it means nothing.

Dan