Replicator 2 mods for ABS printing experiences and gotcha's :)

[Waltermixxx]

Hi there, instead of hijacking Fozzie's thread i thought I would start a new one.

I have a replicator 2 that i would like to start printing ABS on,  Ideally i would like to print PLA on it as well.

I have the following coming to me already:

Home Zillions Aluminum Arm Supports

Makerbot Replicator 2x Aluminum Build Plate pre modded to prevent warping.

Mean Well 9.2 amp Replicator 2x power supply

Clear Acrylic Plastic i will be using to create a Door and Side Panels.

G10 9.7" x 6" 2mm build plate sheets (in red to match my Home Zillion Arm supports...

Some notes:

I replaced my x-idler with AL's aluminum x-idler already.

I should have sailfish installed soon :) 

Questions:

Will having sailfish installed make it easier to switch between PLA and ABS after jobs have completed?

I was just wondering once I have everything installed and setup will i be able to switch between PLA and ABS easily? I may just keep to ABS, but i do have some rolls of PLA i would like to still use... :)

besides the usual unload and load filament what is the best way to purge the material out of the extruder when switching from PLA to ABS and Visa Versa, just keep it extruding for a little bit extra?

Any other bits of advise to impart?  

I'm hoping to pick up another Rep 2 so i can keep one for PLA and one for ABS...  :)   

Yes I know the Printerbot simple is available and easily modded for ABS... but In canada, by the time that 599.00 gets to me with shipping, and taxes and tariffs, it's about $900.00.   :)  at any rate, just wanted to start a thread so folks can share their experiences (please...)  :)

cheers. :) 

I

[Jetguy]

Yes, Sailfish makes it easier because of KEY features like gcode temp override. On top of that, there are easy to choose profiles that can then store the different temps for your favorite materials.

So with gcode temp override enabled, whatever temp is in the preheat settings is what is used for the print job. What that means is that you can slice a file and put it on SD card and not make a new file every time you want to just change temps for a given plastic.

[Waltermixxx]

Awesome, thanks... i believe you can also adjust the speed and the temp mid print :)

Anyone else want to share their experience with the transition?  :)  

:)

[Ryan Carlyle]

ABS is much easier to print with ABOVE the nozzle -- fewer jams due to higher glass point, less stripping because it's not brittle, etc. But it's much harder to print with BELOW the nozzle, because of warping. Main thing is just keeping your chamber hot. But you'll need to get good at print adhesion. Getting PLA to stick adequately is a lot easier than getting ABS to stick. 

[Waltermixxx]

I'm hoping the G10 build plate clipped onto the aluminum heated build plate will work without much hassle.

i will have to do some googling regarding best surface preparation for it.  Some speak of light sanding then hairspray,

someone mentioned that after the light sanding, don't clean the board off very well so the hairspray mixes with the G10 particles...

yup much to learn about ABS adhesion  :)

[Jay]

On Monday, July 21, 2014 7:25:37 PM UTC-4, Waltermixxx wrote:

G10 9.7" x 6" 2mm build plate sheets (in red to match my Home Zillion Arm supports...

Waltermixx...where'd you get the red G10? I've been selling it for 22 years and never seen red G10...red GPO yeah...not the same thing. 

Cheers

Jay

(ScottD...see? This is what I was talking about in my email. I also got some thin gauge C grade I'm cutting for testing too)....

 

[Waltermixxx]

Local place in Toronto.  i got it from ebay...

here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321401377905&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:CA:1123

let me know what you think...

:)

[Waltermixxx]

here is the text from the listing:

G10/FR4 is high strength, medium weave glass epoxy laminate that retain a minimum 
of 50 percent of it room temperature flexural strength under high temperature.
Typical application include insulation in power generation equipment and other
structural applications when used in elevated temperatures.

We are able to cut to specific sizes and CNC the material with your design.

does this help? 

[Tim McMorrow]

I've been running ABS on my Rep2 for a few weeks now. If I print PLA I just keep the platform temp at 40C. The modifications I have done are:

• MakerBot HBP
• HomeZillions aluminum arm stiffeners
• Side/Front Enclosure Panels (for now I have the top open)

I love being able to print in ABS (for more functional parts). The Rep2 extruder prints ABS fine with no modifications. For now I'm not concerned about the option of dual extruders so I'm happy with the setup.

[T-MACC]

Also, I obviously have a 2x power supply. Converting everything was super easy. Once you get good at leveling/getting abs to adhere well, it's awesome being able to switch between ABS and PLA.

[Waltermixxx]

Excellent feedback... :)

are you running Sailfish?

also what are you printing on? kapton, or glass?  :)  hairspray :)?

Cheers... :)

[T-MACC]

Walter,

I am currently printing on Kapton. I have printed mostly smaller items and have had minor issues with curling. I've found that just leveling well (good squish to first layer), and cleaning kapton with alcohol or acetone prior to printing has helped a ton. I've read a lot about hairspray and may look to use that on larger prints if curling seems to be an issue.

I'm also using the standard 230C/110C combo.

[T-MACC]

Also,

I'm not running sailfish yet but am curious to try it out. I think I may set it up this weekend. Worse comes to worse I can always easily revert back.

[Waltermixxx]

I just printed a set of Hinges and a Door handle...

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:376894

First print since switching to Sailfish and making sure that deprime was set to 0.  a few small zits on the handles, and a bit of a rough finish on the inside of the handle where it goes back and froth between the two taller portions of the handles...    at any rate,   my Replicator 2 fram does have the pre tapped holes in the case, and I am wondering what size screw would i need for it so I dont strip the thread, also the length i think about 15mm or so... :) anyone have any idea :)

[Waltermixxx]

I "hand routered" the edge of the plastic on the front door to a 45 degree angle so it sits flush inside the opening.

now i just have to find some bolts to screw the hinges to the rep. 2 and then drill holes in the plexi glass as well. 

The handle is gently screwed in.   I just have to be careful not to scratch the plastic, i kept the film on... i will remove it last

minute :)

I wish the hinges fit together tighter... but oh well... i did find out that the pin should be a 1/64th in pin. not sure where to find that... :)

at any rate, that's where I am at. :) i will simply bolt the side panels to the inside of the bot, not flush as it was a lot of work beveling the front...

from far away it looks ok, but up close it's a bit of a mess :) 

[Waltermixxx]

Here is the installed and completed door. Although the beveled edges are sanded with wet sandpaper 600 grit, there are a few white spots on the edge... But I think it looks pretty good. Side panels won't be beveled, just mounted on the inside.  

On Monday, July 21, 2014 7:25:37 PM UTC-4, Waltermixxx wrote:

[Waltermixxx]

Well I received my "home-zillions" red Aluminum Arm Supports today... very fast shipping... i was surprised.

all the way from Taiwan, and it's only been around 2 weeks only... :) very impressed... now i just have to unpack them

and install them.

I have everything i need... 

Home Zillion Aluminum Arm supports - check

Fixed Heated Genuine Replicator 2x build plate with non warping mod applied to it  (thanks Scott JD) 

Replicator 2x MeanWell power supply - Check

Plastic enclosure panels and door - check 

hmmm I should have kept that sealed 1lb roll of Makerbot natural ABS they sent me with my Replicator 2 instead of PLA....

[MrScottJD]

Well it's to late to ask for the ABS back, besides their is much better ABS to print with that probably costs less than the MBI brand.

Two come to mind.
IC3D
Toybuilder

If your looking for something local to you then botfeeder may have some in your local stores.
Out of the 8 brands I've tried botfeeder ranked 3 in my lost for ABS.

[MrScottJD]

Any chance that we might see this gcode over ride for the HBP on the 2560 firmware.
I can't tell you how many times I sliced a file and forgot the change the bed temp. If that was in the 2560 firmware I could fix it before it gets the first layer down.

On Monday, July 21, 2014 8:28:27 PM UTC-4, Jetguy wrote: