[MakerBot] Noise reduction tips

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MakerBlock

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Jan 23, 2010, 2:17:45 AM1/23/10
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I've done a few things to try to reduce operational noise:
* I tightened down bolts that had worked their way slightly loose over
two weeks of operation.
* I oiled the rods.
* I sanded the holes where the plastic slides fit.
* Lower the potentiometer on the stepper control boards - high enough
that the platforms will move, low enough that the sound is reduced.
* I noticed that the Y stage seemed to be vibrating slightly during
builds. I found this noise was reduced somewhat if I held the two
sides of the platform behind the stepper motor (fingers about where
the opto-endstop trigger notches are) and pressed together gently. I
took a short length of rubber band, tied a small knot in each end, and
then stretched it across the area between the two opto-endstop notches
on either side of the Y stage. This has actually helped somewhat.
* I've tried setting a thin sheet of dense packing foam (the pink
stuff the 'bot came packed with) under the 'bot. This hasn't seemed
to help much. I've thought about installing some between the motor
and the motor mount. However, I'm not sure this is a good idea with
how warm the steppers can get.

What else do you do?

Conrad Farnsworth

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Jan 23, 2010, 2:35:11 AM1/23/10
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Ha ha ha a weird idea would be, if you have an oven...and some extension cord...well, u get the idea....but you probably want ur ove.


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Steven Dick

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Jan 23, 2010, 3:45:34 AM1/23/10
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On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 2:17 AM, MakerBlock <j...@makerblock.com> wrote:
I've done a few things to try to reduce operational noise:
* I tightened down bolts that had worked their way slightly loose over
two weeks of operation.
* I oiled the rods.
* I sanded the holes where the plastic slides fit.

All really good stuff.
 
* Lower the potentiometer on the stepper control boards - high enough
that the platforms will move, low enough that the sound is reduced.

You probably lowered it too much.  Go into control panel and move the axis just a bit so that the stepper stays on and locks the position in.  Then press on the platform and see if you can move it....check if the stepper is slipping or if the belt is slipping.  (Neither should.)  If the stepper slips, you might have to raise the voltage a bit.

Loosening the belts also lowers the noise, but too much and they slip.
Eventually, I'd like to try the belt tensioner posted on thingiverse.
 
* I noticed that the Y stage seemed to be vibrating slightly during
builds.  I found this noise was reduced somewhat if I held the two
sides of the platform behind the stepper motor (fingers about where
the opto-endstop trigger notches are) and pressed together gently.  I
took a short length of rubber band, tied a small knot in each end, and
then stretched it across the area between the two opto-endstop notches
on either side of the Y stage.  This has actually helped somewhat.

Very cool...I might try that, except my Y is not making much noise--most comes from X for me.
 
* I've tried setting a thin sheet of dense packing foam (the pink
stuff the 'bot came packed with) under the 'bot.  This hasn't seemed
to help much.

I've done similar, and helped a little.
 
 I've thought about installing some between the motor
and the motor mount.  However, I'm not sure this is a good idea with
how warm the steppers can get.

I think adjusting the belt tension will help here..
Perhaps instead of foam, a hard rubber mat that won't melt so easily between the motor and the platform.
 
Also, I used a hole punch to make circles out of a worn out bicycle tire and put enough of them on either end of the 4 X rod ends so that the rods don't rattle and have a bit of rubbery pressure on them.  This also helped a lot.  This has been discussed in another thread here, and other people found other creative materials to put at the ends of loose rods.

MakerBlock

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Jan 23, 2010, 9:15:44 PM1/23/10
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Steven,
Thanks - I forgot to mention the spacers I put at the end of the X
rods. My X rods were slightly too short. I put a little bit of
folded up paper towel in front of them and clamped it down - works
beautifully. I love the idea of the hold punches. I'm going to use
that with some of the pink foam and remove the paper towel.
As for the belt tensioner... Don't bother trying it yet - I designed
it. I printed one up and one of the parts is slightly too long. I
have a better idea for its design and will update it shortly. Right
now it won't work unless your Y belt is pretty short.
MakerBlock

Steven Dick

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Jan 24, 2010, 8:43:10 AM1/24/10
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On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 9:15 PM, MakerBlock <j...@makerblock.com> wrote:
Don't bother trying it yet - I designed
it.  I printed one up and one of the parts is slightly too long.  I
have a better idea for its design and will update it shortly.  Right
now it won't work unless your Y belt is pretty short.


I anxiously await the next iteration of your designs!  My Y belt is pretty good.  I think tensioning it better would help a bit, but dampening it would help more.

My X belt works, but is not perfect.  I can't adjust it right now, as the washers have made a groove in the wood, and it just wants to pop back to where it was last, and the adjustment it needs is too small to get away from the groove.  I think both tensioning and dampening would help it.  I should experment with the dampening.

MakerBlock

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Jan 24, 2010, 12:47:00 PM1/24/10
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I've updated and uploaded the new design. :) I wanted to do the Y
belt tensioner first - since its the most difficult belt to tension.

So, the only catch to an X belt tensioner is that you'll have to put a
hole in your bot on the left side near where the X pulley is.

MakerBlock

Michael Curry

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Jan 25, 2010, 1:00:25 PM1/25/10
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I use pillows.  Just lean three of them against the three open sides of the machine, and it muffels things nicely.  As an added bonus, it keeps the build chamber warm, so less warping!

-Michael

Darrell jan

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Jan 31, 2013, 10:17:29 PM1/31/13
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I went looking for ways to make my Rep quieter, and found this old thread.

Much as I like the pillow idea, I'd prefer to do something that let's me continue to see inside. Maybe put some spray on foam on the inside of the wooden surfaces? Has anyone tried anything like that?

I'm already planning to install quieter fans. 

Michael Buffington

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Jan 31, 2013, 10:30:48 PM1/31/13
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I made a box out of 1 inch thick pink insulation foam that covers the entire bot. You can't see inside, but it's nearly silent if the surface the bot is on doesn't transmit the vibration noise. Also helps when printing tall ABS parts. A nice mod to the foam box would put a plexigas window into it. Or even a webcam.

Doogiekr

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Jan 31, 2013, 10:34:34 PM1/31/13
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I find my Rep1 makes a wonderful sound with Sailfish installed... I actually enjoy having it running in the background now while I am doing other things =)

Darrell jan

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Jan 31, 2013, 10:43:19 PM1/31/13
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Is the pink insulation a rubbery foam? As opposed to pink fiberglass.

Wingcommander whpthomas

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Feb 1, 2013, 1:43:06 AM2/1/13
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Installing a hood and side panels, firmware 7.0 and a new ball bearing heatsink fan has really quietened my Rep2 - subjectively by more than half.
hinged-hood.jpg

Darrell jan

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Feb 1, 2013, 9:57:32 AM2/1/13
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That's interesting--since the Rep 2 is already supposed to be much quieter than the Replicator. 

xenogea...@gmail.com

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Feb 1, 2013, 11:37:14 AM2/1/13
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Do you have the name of the manufacturer, the model number and the name of the place where you found that ball bearing fan?  I want to replace the stock fan in my bot.  Every now and then, usually on a cold start, my fan will make this horrible grinding noise and wont come up to full speed unless I knock it around a little.  I guess I could get a replacement from MBI, but they'll probably send me another sleeve bearing fan.  I can find plenty of 12v fans, but finding a 24v fan is a little harder.  Any info would be appreciated. :)

Wingcommander whpthomas

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Feb 1, 2013, 12:03:07 PM2/1/13
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Do you have the name of the manufacturer

Yes, it is an ADDA and has 6 CFM lower RPM and 2 x ball races. I got mine locally, but if you do a search for '40 10 24v ball fan' on eBay they are being sold in mainland USA and Canada at the moment - but you will need to cut, splice and solder the wires - the connectors are different. 

Wingcommander whpthomas

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Feb 1, 2013, 1:50:53 PM2/1/13
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Just uploaded my printable enclosure mounting hardware on Thingiverse here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46069

There is a set of PDF plans for the side panels - the hood is a bit more complex - I purchased that from BilbyCNC in Australia http://www.bilbycnc.com.au/DisplayProd.asp?ProdID=cncRepHood
enclosure mounting hardware 2.jpg
enclosure mounting hardware 4.jpg
enclosure mounting hardware 5.jpg

Michael Buffington

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Feb 1, 2013, 3:12:32 PM2/1/13
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It's not rubbery by any description - think stiff, somewhat dense styrofoam. But yeah, it's not the fiberglass stuff. In North America you can generally find the stuff at most home improvement big box stores - sometimes it's pink, blue, or white. I had an extra sheet in the garage and figured I'd give it a shot. I'd bet that there are other, better, materials to use specifically for sound insulation  at the same big box stores.
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