StructEng
Nov 27, 2017, 11:31:06 AM11/27/17
to Makerbot Users
I have a couple of Rep2 printers I picked-up new from MB - the first was one of the "last ones in-stock" at June '14, and the other was one of the "built a few more with leftover stock" around April '16. I have not added any upgrades to either, and have a few hundred hours of print time between them, and I use Simplify3D. I have only printed PLA, and do not plan to print with any other materials such as ABS with these printers.
I would like to print more reliably using a larger footprint on the plate, so I am about to pull the trigger on (unheated) aluminum build plates for each - I understand that will help prevent the release and resultant curling I am getting out on the corners for larger prints on the stock acrylic plates.
It seems a simple upgrade would be to switch out their nozzles to stainless, since I have run maybe 0.2 kg of glow-in-the-dark filament, and I read that those can abrade the stock brass nozzle. Should I stick with the 0.4mm nozzle opening, or is there some advantage to a different diameter there?
What other upgrades are still available and advisable for these later-production-run Rep2 printers? Looks like the window has closed on acquiring upgrades from Carl Raffle and Bottleworks, which seemed to be popular among the experts here. For a PLA-only printer that is used for architectural (structural) models, what would you all recommend?
Any advice is greatly appreciated...
Rich Webb
Nov 27, 2017, 12:48:15 PM11/27/17
to Makerbot Users
Fargo 3D Printing has some aluminum replacements for the carriage and Y axis assembly that are derivatives of Carl's designs. Performance 3D has arm stiffeners and really nice thermal tubes and nozzles. Uncle Chuck has various repair/replacement parts as well.
After all, XMas is just around the corner.. ;-)
TobyCWood
Nov 27, 2017, 12:51:55 PM11/27/17
to Makerbot Users
For sure you will need to replace the idler arm in the extruder from an injection molded ABS part to machined aluminum. Where to find one? Try searching on eBay. There are still people that make them and sell direct there. Expect it to cost around $100. You can also contact Martin at Bondtech to see if he has anymore Rep2 kits. He may have started making more after I posted here about it. The Bondtech is way better then an idler arm by a lot.
You should also read the thread at the top here about using Aquanet Super extra hold unscented on the build plates.
Then there's software. Simplify3D. Worth every penny.
Then there's software. Simplify3D. Worth every penny.
Jetguy
Nov 27, 2017, 1:29:07 PM11/27/17
to Makerbot Users
FWIW, I'm a huge fan of Bondtech and agree, it's by far the best solution, but if it's not available or the price is too great. I happen to know that MicroSwiss does make a matching guide and arm set in aluminum that will work on a Rep2. Also not $100
Also, run their nozzle https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/makerbot-replicator-2/products/mk8
Also, can't remember off the top of my head which side the replicator 2 is, but I know this works
https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/flashforge-guider-2/products/cnc-machined-lever-and-extruder-plate-for-dual-extruders
Being dead honest, I don't know why they don't market and say it fits the Rep2 or original wooden Replicator 1.
I know the 2X is different, but Flash Forge and Wanhao copied the MK8 extruder feeder straight from MakerBot Rep2 so why Microswiss doesn't know they can sell them to folks doesn't make sense to me.
And background, I've been doing this so long and have a pile a parts including Replicator2 extruder OEM parts just not a full blown Rep2 in a frame.
Again, absolutely there is no comparison that a Bondtech with it's dual grip and higher steps per mm results in more force to push the filament and finer control, but if that's not available and out of budget, there are other options and MicroSwiss would be my personal next choice seeing the price and knowing the quality and attention to detail. Years ago. David had and still sells an amazing extruder, but I just feel all things considered, over time better options exist. http://www.devilsinthedetails.ca/
Also, run their nozzle https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/makerbot-replicator-2/products/mk8
Also, can't remember off the top of my head which side the replicator 2 is, but I know this works
https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/flashforge-guider-2/products/cnc-machined-lever-and-extruder-plate-for-dual-extruders
Being dead honest, I don't know why they don't market and say it fits the Rep2 or original wooden Replicator 1.
I know the 2X is different, but Flash Forge and Wanhao copied the MK8 extruder feeder straight from MakerBot Rep2 so why Microswiss doesn't know they can sell them to folks doesn't make sense to me.
And background, I've been doing this so long and have a pile a parts including Replicator2 extruder OEM parts just not a full blown Rep2 in a frame.
Again, absolutely there is no comparison that a Bondtech with it's dual grip and higher steps per mm results in more force to push the filament and finer control, but if that's not available and out of budget, there are other options and MicroSwiss would be my personal next choice seeing the price and knowing the quality and attention to detail. Years ago. David had and still sells an amazing extruder, but I just feel all things considered, over time better options exist. http://www.devilsinthedetails.ca/
Jetguy
Nov 27, 2017, 1:31:43 PM11/27/17
to Makerbot Users
And Flexion makes a kit too, and it works for all filament but also has specialized ones for flexible and ultra flexible filaments (if you need that) https://flexionextruder.com/shop/single/
Use the drop down to choose Replicator 2.
Use the drop down to choose Replicator 2.
Jetguy
Nov 27, 2017, 1:33:27 PM11/27/17
to Makerbot Users
Also, highly recommend considering alternate routing of the stock wiring for X axis or modding and putting in Cicoil flex wire.
http://www.allaboutjake.com/hi-flex-cable-upgrade-for-rep-22x-x-axis-harness/
http://www.allaboutjake.com/hi-flex-cable-upgrade-for-rep-22x-x-axis-harness/
Jetguy
Nov 27, 2017, 1:42:57 PM11/27/17
to Makerbot Users
Also, if you did go the microswiss aluminum extruder arm setup, I just figured out you use the right side arm kit and also, probably should use etiher this drive gear on the motor https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYG5Z47 Or get one that is identical from here https://www.3dp2go.com/38-teeth-steel-extruder-drive-gear-id-5mm-p-450.html
Please, do not just go on the internet and find a gear that looks like those I linked. Many are total crap. It comes down to how hard and sharp the teeth are. The ones I linked are proven and near sharp enough to cut your finger if you run it across the teeth.
Also, came across this but I cannot vouch for it, never touched one https://www.ebay.com/i/112494000439?chn=ps&dispctrl=1
Please, do not just go on the internet and find a gear that looks like those I linked. Many are total crap. It comes down to how hard and sharp the teeth are. The ones I linked are proven and near sharp enough to cut your finger if you run it across the teeth.
Also, came across this but I cannot vouch for it, never touched one https://www.ebay.com/i/112494000439?chn=ps&dispctrl=1
On Monday, November 27, 2017 at 1:31:43 PM UTC-5, Jetguy wrote:
Erik Mendoza
Nov 28, 2017, 10:03:03 AM11/28/17
to Makerbot Users
I purchased the Bondtech kit, but it just doesn't work as well as the upgraded lever assembly I have had on here since I first got the machine.
It actually doesn't really work at all for me. It kept slipping, and I had to push the filament through. I don't know if this is a symptom to a greater issue or not, but I almost never have any slipping with what I have on my machine right now. I do have some print issues, and I was hoping this kit from Bondtech might be the thing to fix it, but now it seems more likely that I am going to have to replace nozzle/ and or tube.
If anyone wants to buy my bondtech kit, I am more than happy to arrange that. Full disclosure, the two holes in the top of the cooling block that comes with the kit on top for the PLA cooling fan mount are untapped. So I am willing to sell this at a discount because the recipient will have to get that tapped. Also, I had to remove my cooling fan shroud because the kit did not come with longer screws. This may not apply to your machine, but it did for mine.
Attached are photos of cooling block that came with the kit, and of my drive assembly as I am putting it back to the way I had it before..
My machine has the aluminum axes, carriage, arms, and heated build platform, as well as glass plate. For the most part, these things have worked extremely well for me.
It actually doesn't really work at all for me. It kept slipping, and I had to push the filament through. I don't know if this is a symptom to a greater issue or not, but I almost never have any slipping with what I have on my machine right now. I do have some print issues, and I was hoping this kit from Bondtech might be the thing to fix it, but now it seems more likely that I am going to have to replace nozzle/ and or tube.
If anyone wants to buy my bondtech kit, I am more than happy to arrange that. Full disclosure, the two holes in the top of the cooling block that comes with the kit on top for the PLA cooling fan mount are untapped. So I am willing to sell this at a discount because the recipient will have to get that tapped. Also, I had to remove my cooling fan shroud because the kit did not come with longer screws. This may not apply to your machine, but it did for mine.
Attached are photos of cooling block that came with the kit, and of my drive assembly as I am putting it back to the way I had it before..
My machine has the aluminum axes, carriage, arms, and heated build platform, as well as glass plate. For the most part, these things have worked extremely well for me.
TobyCWood
Nov 28, 2017, 2:55:21 PM11/28/17
to makerbo...@googlegroups.com
Based solely on what you wrote I would assume that the set screw on the gear was not properly set. Slipping is not something I have ever seen with a Bondtech, unless of course the gear's tension thumbscrew is left too loose. You do have to put the hobbed gear on as you mount the stepper and it does take some thought on how to do it right.
"Cooling fan shroud"??? You mean the extruder's cooler or the downward fan??? If the former (which DOES need longer screws it you want to put the screen back on) the extruder would not be able to control heat creep upwards and even if it was not slipping you would have issues... You do have to replace the OEM part that holds the downward fan. Martin should have sent you the file.
And then there's the untapped holes... I would have sent it back.
Erik Mendoza
Nov 29, 2017, 12:32:28 PM11/29/17
to Makerbot Users
I did adjust the thumb screw, but it was still slipping. I put the assembly together as described in the instructions.
Cooling fan shroud: It's the metal cover on the extruder's fan. I did put it together, (minus the cover, i had intended to purchase longer screws, but this was before I tested it and found that it didn't work for me). Therefore, the heat creep is not a variable in this instance. Martin did provide the part to replace the OEM piece that holds the downward fan.
The untapped holes is a minor issue, no reason to send back. I just don't happen to have the right taps for that size screw. I would rather someone else get some use of the kit, than to waste shipping back across the pond.
Luckily someone took me up on the offer to use the kit, so fingers crossed it works better for him :- )
Cooling fan shroud: It's the metal cover on the extruder's fan. I did put it together, (minus the cover, i had intended to purchase longer screws, but this was before I tested it and found that it didn't work for me). Therefore, the heat creep is not a variable in this instance. Martin did provide the part to replace the OEM piece that holds the downward fan.
The untapped holes is a minor issue, no reason to send back. I just don't happen to have the right taps for that size screw. I would rather someone else get some use of the kit, than to waste shipping back across the pond.
Luckily someone took me up on the offer to use the kit, so fingers crossed it works better for him :- )
Jonathan Wukitsch
Jan 26, 2019, 10:59:48 PM1/26/19
to Makerbot Users
I know I'm digging up an old thread but I've been looking around for aluminum drive block upgrades for my Rep2, and bought the Micro Swiss one as Jetguy recommended in this post. It's not compatible with the Rep2 at all, it sits too high from the cold block and you can't screw it or the motor in as a result. So that's why they don't market it as working with MakerBots...
On a side note, anyone know of any other aluminum drive blocks that actually are compatible? There are a ton of cheap Chinese ones on eBay but I don't really want to take a gamble on another one.
On Monday, November 27, 2017 at 1:29:07 PM UTC-5, Jetguy wrote:
Scott Lichtsinn
Feb 5, 2019, 5:59:45 AM2/5/19
to Makerbot Users
Hey Jonathan,
The best one i know for the Rep 2 and Rep 2X is from an ebay seller named cre8it
For Rep 2's i use this one..
For Rep 2x i use this one..
The only major difference between the two is that for a Rep 2X the back of the extruder drive needs to be thicker because the mounting bar on the 2X extruder is wider so the motor sits back farther. In a pinch i have put the Flashforge model he sells on a 2X by printing a spacer to go between the extruder drive and the stepper motor, i don't recall the thickness i had to make that its been a while. The Flashforge version also works on the Rep 1, CTC, and other similar clones and its what i have on my Rep 1's and Rep 2's.
They aren't cheap but they work great. There was a couple cheaper versions on eBay but i am not seeing them listed currently, perhaps out of stock of they stopped selling them.
There is also this version for the Rep 2X...
However one thing i don't like about the Invotech one is the filament doesn't go through the lower end of the extruder drive, the other versions i linked to has an output side hole in the aluminum that guides the filament down to the extruder throat. These Invotech ones can cause the filament to push out and bend over and cause a jam between the extruder drive gear and the throat.
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