Where to buy Thermocouple for Makerbot Replicator 1 ?

[Elbot]

Hi,

I searched Amazon, Ebay, and Google, but I can only find thermocouples for sale for the Rep 2, but none for the Replicator 1. Where can I buy a replacement thermocouple?

Thanks,
:0)

[Jetguy]

Technically the Replicator 1 came with thermocouples that are like these from Adafruit that have no mounting end on them http://www.adafruit.com/products/270

That said, they used to have nicer ones and I would go with something better. For a few $ more these are a lot better and have a mounting tab that is properly electrically isolated.

http://wanhaousa.com/collections/hotend-parts/products/thermocouple $14 each and free shipping.

[Andrew Aurigema]

...... and a good link to R2X thermocouple spare parts would be ????

[Jetguy]

My understanding is the R2X uses a screw in style thermocouple that is M3 threaded?

 

I think that a Flash Forge latest style works http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/parts-accessories/thermocouple.html

If that's the same as on my Dreamer, then it should screw right in. Everyone is using K types so it's compatible electrically.

[Jetguy]

Here are some diagrams pics and installation instructions http://bilbycnc.freshdesk.com/support/articles/128885-makerbot-replicator-2x-thermocoupler-upgrade-replacement

[Ryan Carlyle]

FlashForge is using M4 thermowells, the R2x uses M3. So that's no good.

The only people I've seen selling R2x-compatible ones are Makerbot phone support, and BilbyCNC in Australia.

If you're brave, you can uncrimp the brass thermowell from your existing thermocouple wire and re-crimp in new thermocouple wire. (With appropriate tip prep etc.)

[Dan Newman]

On 23/10/2014, 11:00 AM, Jetguy wrote:
> My understanding is the R2X uses a screw in style thermocouple that is M3
> threaded?

Correct.

> I think that a Flash Forge latest style works
> http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/parts-accessories/thermocouple.html

It's M4 threaded. I have one kicking about and checked.

For an R2X you can buy, but it's not cheap, a nice one from Bilby CNC in
Australia. Or you can reuse the brass "thermowell" from a kaput one
by spreading open the crimps, removing the old t/c bead, and putting in
a new one. Be sure to wrap a little bit of kapton tape around the
new t/c bead so as to electrically insulate it from the heater block.

Or you can use an 6mm M3 bolt, a washer, and the t/c wrapped in a little
kapton and bolt the t/c bead to the outside of the heater block. That's
how Rep 1's did it. You just then use a lower temp for PLA (190 - 200)
instead of (210 - 220). Since ABS has such a large process temp range,
you can continue to use 230 - 240C for ABS.

Dan

[Andrew Aurigema]

Thanks for the info.  

I will have to get me some replacements to have on hand.  I got a warning last night a few hours into printing that my extruders were not hot enough and I needed to check my wiring,  #3 error or something like that.  The R2X was all flashing red and stopped dead with motors and HBP turned off.  I thought I could just check the TC wiring at both ends, tighten it at the mighty board and restart the print but there did not seem to be a way to do that.  So I shut it all down, loosened the TC connections and checked for broken wires then tightened them all back down and rebooted the bot.  It seems to be happy again even if the head was clogged.  ABS clears easy when hot so that fix was quick.    

I noticed that the wires on the Mightyboard were stranded copper so somewhere along the way the factory spliced in stranded 2 conductor wire to the type K thermocouple wire. I presumed the problem was at the board screw down post on the board but now I worried it could have been at the splice ( where ever that is ).  Any ideas on that ???

Also is the TC for my R2X the M3 or the M4 thread.  I got lost in the answers. I think I want to go to the external bolt on version.  Where are the Rep1 TC available from ???

[Ryan Carlyle]

R2x stock is an M3 brass thermowell that crimps onto the end of the TC wire.

I doubt Makerbot spliced in copper, the stock TC is one continuous wire from the hot end to the board -- are you sure it's not just stranded TC wire? It should be silver-colored, with one of the two wires attracted to magnets and one not attracted to magnets.

[Dan Newman]

On 28/10/2014, 9:46 AM, Andrew Aurigema wrote:
> Thanks for the info.
>
> I will have to get me some replacements to have on hand. I got a warning
> last night a few hours into printing that my extruders were not hot enough
> and I needed to check my wiring, #3 error or something like that. The R2X
> was all flashing red and stopped dead with motors and HBP turned off. I
> thought I could just check the TC wiring at both ends, tighten it at the
> mighty board and restart the print but there did not seem to be a way to do
> that. So I shut it all down, loosened the TC connections and checked for
> broken wires then tightened them all back down and rebooted the bot. It
> seems to be happy again even if the head was clogged. ABS clears easy when
> hot so that fix was quick.

BTW, if you run the Sailfish firmware it will tell you which temperature
sensor is failing: right extruder, left extruder, or heated build platform.

> I noticed that the wires on the Mightyboard were stranded copper so
> somewhere along the way the factory spliced in stranded 2 conductor wire to
> the type K thermocouple wire. I presumed the problem was at the board screw
> down post on the board but now I worried it could have been at the splice (
> where ever that is ). Any ideas on that ???

As others wrote previously, the wire isn't spliced. Instead, it must be
stranded t/c wire which, I believe, MBI did switch too. Less likely to
break with all the flexing which goes on as the extruder carriage moves
about. (Might not seem like a lot of flexing, but MBI was seeing cases
of the wiring breaking.)

> Also is the TC for my R2X the M3 or the M4 thread.

M3. FlashForge uses M4.

> Where are the Rep1 TC available from ???

It's just a 36" long, glass sheathed Type K thermocouple wire. I forget
the gauge but likely 28 or 30 awg. On the Mk7 and Mk8, MBI would just
wrap a small amount of kapton tape around the welded end of the wire,
then wrap that once around an M3 x 6mm bolt WITH a washer and screw
that into the heater block. Do not overtighten or the kapton tape
will be broken and the thermocouple wire will short to the heater block.
That, in turn, can throw off the temperature readings.

However, internally mounted is better as far as the PID control goes.
It tracks the temperature changes a little more closely. And when extruding
PLA that can be helpful. It's not mandatory though: plenty of people
successfully print PLA with Mk8-style extruders. I do.

Dan

[Andrew Aurigema]

You guys rock.  It is stranded TC cable ( I had never seen that before ).  So now I have to find some type K stranded and remake the two TC that failed me last year so I have some spares.  Thanks again.  I am almost brave enough to switch to Sailfish.  

[Dan Newman]

On 28/10/2014, 6:15 PM, Andrew Aurigema wrote:
> You guys rock. It is stranded TC cable ( I had never seen that before ).
> So now I have to find some type K stranded and remake the two TC that
> failed me last year so I have some spares.

I wouldn't bother buying stranded. Just get solid but not too high
of gauge or it will be too stiff. I just buy my t/c's from Omega in packs of 5.

Dan