Fwd: [MakerBot] Connectors Reference

[Ryan Carlyle]

Digikey PNs for R2x parts: (matches my bot w/ rev H board)


Male k-type thermocouple plug: 290-1985-ND
Female k-type thermocouple plug: 290-1986-ND


Extruder fan: 1053-1208-ND
Fan plug: 455-2266-ND
Fan plug crimp: 455-1135-1-ND (22-28ga), 455-2261-1-ND (26-30ga)
Fan header: 455-2247-ND


Heater extruder side plug: WM1855-ND
Heater extruder side crimps: WM2777CT-ND (20-24ga)
Heater board side plug: WM1845-ND
Heater board side crimps: WM7082CT-ND (20-24ga)


Stepper plug: 455-1162-ND
Stepper plug crimps: 455-2148-1-ND (24-28ga)


HBP board side plug: WM23609-ND  

HBP board side crimps: WM3115CT-ND (16ga), WM6890CT-ND (18-24ga)

HBP plate side plug: WM18440-ND
HBP plate side crimps: WM18520-ND (16ga), WM6891CT-ND (18-24ga) 

[Ryan Carlyle]

Well, that sorta worked.

On Friday, August 8, 2014 5:30:37 PM UTC-5, Ryan Carlyle wrote:

Test to "transfer" MOGG content to MUGG.

[Ryan Carlyle]

FYI: I used the "Forward" link on the MOGG thread, and sent it to makerbo...@googlegroups.com and that posted the quoted part here.

[Walter Miraglia]

Thanks Ryan, this is great information :)

I was thinking of having a second extruder ready to go incase I get a bad clog or other issue on my rep 2 and having unit ready that screws into the carriage, and then plugs into the main cable bundle :)  

Thanks :)

[Ryan Carlyle]

I strongly recommend it! Swappable extruder assemblies are the way to go. 

[TobyCWood]

you all want this thumbtacked?

[Walter Miraglia]

I think it would be a great addition to the already pinned items :)

Cheers. :)

[Nigel Preece]

Hi

I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can get the hex connector used to screw a thermocouple into the aluminum block. I can't for the life of me find a replacement M3 hex screw with a crimp end required to do the job.

Thanks

[Dan Newman]

On 24/06/2015 6:03 PM, Nigel Preece wrote:
> Hi
>
> I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can get the hex connector used to
> screw a thermocouple into the aluminum block. I can't for the life of me
> find a replacement M3 hex screw with a crimp end required to do the job.

Last I checked such thermowells are custom made. But a "thermowell" is what
you're looking for.

Dan

[Nigel Preece]

just seen a previous post of yours: 

Or you can use an 6mm M3 bolt, a washer, and the t/c wrapped in a little 
kapton and bolt the t/c bead to the outside of the heater block.  That's 
how Rep 1's did it.  You just then use a lower temp for PLA (190 - 200) 
instead of (210 - 220).  Since ABS has such a large process temp range, 
you can continue to use 230 - 240C for ABS. 

 I have access to an IR temp gun so going to give this a go as it looks like such a simple fix instead of trying to find a custom thermowell. My previous one had the crimps snap off hence why I'm looking for another one. 

Thanks for your help and I'll let you know how it gets on

Nigel

[Dan Newman]

> I have access to an IR temp gun so going to give this a go as it looks
> like such a simple fix instead of trying to find a custom thermowell. My
> previous one had the crimps snap off hence why I'm looking for another one.
> Thanks for your help and I'll let you know how it gets on

bilbycnc (who has changed their name) sell these style of thermocouples in Australia.

Performance 3D in the US also makes them and sells them, http://www.p3-d.com/replicator-2-thermocouple.html.

An IR gun isn't going to give you good results: unless it's an expensive one, you
won't be able to set the emissivity for a aluminum heater block AND it will see too
large of a spot size (i.e., will average in stuff around the heater block as well).
Net, net, the temp read on an IR gun won't be terribly meaningful.

Dan

[Jake Clark]

Fargo 3D Printing also sells thermocouples. We are out of stock at the moment but will be getting more in next week.

-Jake

[Richard Beck]

Thanks, great info!  Just ordered the connectors and pins I needed.