Z-axis Upgrade Option for Rep1, Rep2, Rep2x and all their clones! CHEAP

[Scott Lichtsinn]

I don't normally recommend stuff i find online but this is one of those cases that i want people to know about if they didn't already, as its a lot cheaper then the competition.

As some probably know there is a complete Z-Axis replacement for the Rep printers from Germany, IDE is the brand name, they are great but they are more then the cost of these printers used once you add up all the parts.  I found a cheaper alternative from China on AliExpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Aluminum-heated-bed-base-plate-for-Replicator-2X-clone-3D-printer-z-axis-upgrade-heated-support/32921839380.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.7daa2d78X8KHmL

You can order it with 8mm or 10mm Linear Bearings.  The Rep1 and its clones use 8mm Z rods, and the Rep2/2x uses 10mm rods, although they are aluminum and should be replaced for linear bearings.  One of my 2x printers has the IDE setup on it, complete Z replacement, hardened steel rods, and his build platform, they work great no complaints, but i just can't justify the cost of his setup to put on another printer so i went with the one from China.

I ordered it with the 10mm linear bearings and ordered some 10mmx300mm hardened steel rods from a seller on eBay.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/300-350-400-450-10mm-Linear-Motion-Shaft-Hardened-Rod-3D-Printer-CNC-Prusa-i3/152837016768?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=452566095232&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The only very minor issue I had installing this is the original Z-axis brass leadscrew nut has a slightly different hole pattern then what the plate is made for.  By comparison I have some Chinese made replacement leadscrew nuts and they were a perfect fit, so its just a matter of Makerbot being slightly different then everyone else as usual.  I decided to keep the stock Makerbot leadscrew nut because their version is drilled and tapped, whereas all the Chinese ones are just drilled for through bolts.  To make it fit the plate all I had to do was take a small round file and file each one of the four screw holes towards the center about 4-5 draws of the file, maybe .5-.8mm is all it needed to allow the screws to go through straight and not bind on the side of the holes.  I call that a win, because even if the screws come loose it really can’t rock side to side.  I did put a little dab of blue locktite on each of the four screws though because I always found those coming loose and causing platform wiggle on the Makerbots.

If you put one of these on a Rep1, which i have also, you can upgrade to 10mm rods, all you need to do is take the wooden plates that hold the Z-rods and replace them or drill them out to 10mm and put everything back together, quick change to 10mm rods and it does add some stiffness to the Z axis.  

The plate is drilled for either of the stock style build platforms, either three leveling screws or four, and the linear bearings are slotted to allow for side to side adjustment for any variance in your rod spacing, although on the Rep1 you can also adjust the Z rods some with the stock mounting blocks.  Took me less than a hour to swap it out on my 2x, works great!!  No more play in the Z platform and maintains its leveling now like my one with the IDE setup on it.  With Bottleworks arms a thing of the past now this makes a great upgrade option on the Replicators and their clones.

[Scott Lichtsinn]

One more note... 

The one that i received that i ordered with 10mm linear bearings came with four hole square flanged linear bearings, all the screws, and nylock nuts as well.  I think the one in the picture on their listing is a 8mm bearing, which appears to the oblong/oval flange with two screws.

Also, you can find the IDE setup on Thingiverse and print his Z-Pusher, the part that goes on the platform to hit the Z-Axis limit switch.  I printed his 60mm version and that got me really close, i ended up making a small piece about 3mm thick to glue onto the top of it, alternatively i was thinking of redesigning that Z-Pusher with an adjustable top so that the limit could be adjusted as the build surface is switched out, but the 60mm tall version was just about right.  The limit switch on the printer is adjustable if you move it to the slotted holes but it requires taking the back panel off to access the screws, so adjusting the height of the Z-Pusher is a lot easier.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:866821

[TobyCWood]

I note that it states it's a "heated" build plate. Fake news.

[Scott Lichtsinn]

Yeah they don't advertise or title it great, but its a good product.  I really like it compared to the other options of putting bandaids on the platform arms.

I called them out on the title as they have it now...

Aluminum heated bed base plate for Replicator 2X/clone 3D printer z axis upgrade heated support

I told them calling its a heated bed base plate is fine, since thats what it is, but they shouldnt call it a heated support, they should just call it a Z-Axis Upgrade.

[Scott Lichtsinn]

Here is pictures of it installed on one of my Rep1's and on one of my 2x's.  The Rep1 has about 150 hours of printing with it, i have not had to re-level the build platform since installing it.  The Rep2x has only been running this setup for about 20 hours now, but so far just as good as the one on the Rep1.  On the Rep1 i replaced the Z Rods with 10mm as well, its amazing how much of a difference it made, no wobble anymore, and the print quality sure is a lot different!  Nothing Fake about this!

[Scott Lichtsinn]

Just an update on this setup... Still rock solid, i have about 600 hours of printing combined between four printers that now have this Chinese made Z-Axis on them.  No issues whatsoever with them.  Bearings are good quality, and the aluminum doesn't move around with repeated heating cycles, one thing that many kept asking me about.  They seem to be pretty well made cast aluminum plates, not sure of the grade of aluminum, i'm sure its some bog standard cast plate, but its been perfect.  The price also went down a bit on these if you hunt around on AliExpress, there is a few sellers with them now, down to as cheap as $50.  For $50 to get the plate and the linear bearings is a really good deal.  If your putting it on a Rep 1 and don't want to upgrade your stock Z rods to 10mm that makes it a $50 complete Z replacement.  

I have found after running them side by side between this Z axis and 10mm rods on one Rep 1 and solid aluminum arms and 8mm rods on another that there is less play in the setup, less wobble.  But that could have just been the aluminum arms and wood moving on the old setup.  I now have this on all my printers except for the one that has the IDE upgrade on it.  For $50 plus some 10mm rods, its a cheap upgrade that really does the job.

Next step is replacing my carriages and X ends with aluminum parts, one step at a time, one printer at a time.  But there is Chinese based manufacturers making the X-End kits in CNC'd aluminum parts now!