Something went out on my Replicator 2, how do I fix this?

[Bryon Miller]

My replicator 2 stopped extruding in the middle of a print, I thought it was clogged, but when I tried to unload the filament wouldn't move.  So I loaded it and then did an unload, it didn't move.  I think it is not reading the temperature any more.  I didn't feel any heat on the aluminum block and think I remember burning myself on that in the past.  I turned the machine off to take the fan's and heat sink off of the extruder.  When I turn it back on the fan was still on so I checked the temperature.  It showed 101 and is dropping in 1 degree increments very slowly.

Is this the sign of something being fried?  Or is it possible it is something else?  I have a box of spare parts I filled with stuff from Makerbot over the years, I think this is the cable I'm hoping I have to change

Does anyone know what might be causing this problem?

Thanks

[Bryon Miller]

The temperature is working fine, I had to push the filament down using a lot of force, that got it coming out of the nozzle.  Looks like it was clogged.  Now I get to learn how to solder because the negative wire came off the side fan when I was moving things around.  I'm finding it damn near impossible to hold the soldering gun properly and that's with this contraption that has aligator clips that hold the wire in place so I don't have to hold it.  It feels like the tip of the soldering is HUGE.  Are you supposed to use a special soldering iron that has a tiny tip or something?  This seems very hard to do.

[Dan Newman]

On 18/02/2015 5:02 PM, Bryon Miller wrote:
> The temperature is working fine, I had to push the filament down using a
> lot of force, that got it coming out of the nozzle. Looks like it was
> clogged. Now I get to learn how to solder because the negative wire came
> off the side fan when I was moving things around. I'm finding it damn near
> impossible to hold the soldering gun properly and that's with this
> contraption that has aligator clips that hold the wire in place so I don't
> have to hold it. It feels like the tip of the soldering is HUGE. Are you
> supposed to use a special soldering iron that has a tiny tip or something?
> This seems very hard to do.

I have to admit, I don't own a soldering gun and only soldering irons.
Soldering guns are a bit of overkill for simple, 24 awg wire. But they
will certainly work.

Dan

[Dan Newman]

And, what are you soldering the wire back to? The little connector? Another
wire? A pad inside the fan housing?

Dan

[Bryon Miller]

The black wire on this fan.  This is so frustrating, if I just buy a new fan are these already soldered?  The tip on my soldering gun is large and I should have my vitals checked, I must have no potassium in me, I couldn't hold this gun straight if my life depended on it, I burned the housing trying to get the soldering gun near the spot and I don't want to touch the board.  I don't suppose there's another way to connect this other than solder is there?



On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 6:29:16 PM UTC-7, dnewman wrote:

[Dan Newman]

On 18/02/2015 5:50 PM, Bryon Miller wrote:
> The black wire on this fan. This is so frustrating, if I just buy a new
> fan are these already soldered?

The fans come with about 4 - 6 inches of wire already attached. No connector
though: MBI adds that themselves. It's just wire with stripped and tinned
ends.

> I don't suppose there's another way to connect this other than
> solder is there?

Arc welder ;) Nope, soldering is what you want to do.

Dan

[Bryon Miller]

:)

I'm going to try soldering it.  If I damage it, would this replacement work?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BFB0524HH/603-1116-ND/1014447?WT.srch=1&WT.medium=cpc&WT.mc_id=IQ62057686-VQ2-g-VQ6-40609412955-VQ15-1t1-VQ16-c

Looks like I could just splice the wires

[Dan Newman]

On 18/02/2015 6:26 PM, Bryon Miller wrote:
> :)
>
> I'm going to try soldering it. If I damage it, would this replacement work?

No clue. That's pretty much the only 24VDC blower fan I know of which is
readily available. However, it appears to be a tad more powerful -- a higher
CFM rating -- than the one MBI uses. That's why I put in a PWM control
for the Core-XY builds of Sailfish as folks are using that fan (I believe)
for their Core-XY builds and find they want to run it at about 50%.

Is there a part number on the fan you have? (I'd have to take mine off
of my Rep 2 to look and I'm not eager to do that.)

> Looks like I could just splice the wires

Correct.

Dan

[Bryon Miller]

I found this fan by looking up the model number listed on the sticker but wasn't sure if they would be exactly the same.  It says:

DC Brushless Model BFB0524HH

[Dan Newman]

On 18/02/2015 8:01 PM, Bryon Miller wrote:
> I found this fan by looking up the model number listed on the sticker but
> wasn't sure if they would be exactly the same. It says:
>
> DC Brushless Model BFB0524HH

Then that's likely it and MBI's duct chokes the flow down a bit or otherwise
makes it come across as less aggressive than with the ducts being used with
the core-xy builds.

Dan

[Bryon Miller]

Thanks so much, I'm going to order one then.  I'm sure I'm going to damage this one, but if I don't then I'll just have an extra to go in the box with everything else.

[mfitz73]

lol man I have been there.  Im no pro with soldering irons but it took me like 20 tries over 5 days to get it.  And the myriad of contraptions I used to try and steady the fan and wires to get a stable surface to solder on.... but eventually I bought a new fan off ebay for a few bucks and while it was on the way, I got it soldered. so now I have an extra fan for backup.
btw, the fan I ordered on ebay came with about 9 inches of wires and the connector.

On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 8:02:28 PM UTC-5, Bryon Miller wrote:

The temperature is working fine, I had to push the filament down using a lot of force, that got it coming out of the nozzle.  Looks like it was clogged.  Now I get to learn how to solder because the negative wire came off the side fan when I was moving things around.  I'm finding it damn near impossible to hold the soldering gun properly and that's with this contraption that has aligator clips that hold the wire in place so I don't have to hold it.  It feels like the tip of the soldering is HUGE.  Are you supposed to use a special soldering iron that has a tiny tip or something?  This seems very hard to do.

[Bryon Miller]

Lol, I guess we had identical experiences.  I got it soldered.  I went to the local electronic store and bought a new soldering iron that had a much smaller tip on it.  It took me a bunch of tries also, I was afraid I would drip solder on one of those traces on the board for the fan.  THEN I broke a wire on the fan for the front (I spliced it before so it just came loose).  Soldered those wires back together and put a shrinkwrap tube on it so it would look decent.  Now the printer is running again.  Thanks so much for everyones help.

ESP Dan, I'm a noob at soldering and just mentioning that the fans come with tinned wires is what made me tin the wires and made the whole process easy.  From a clueless noob, thank you!

On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 7:37:03 AM UTC-7, mfitz73 wrote:

lol man I have been there.  Im no pro with soldering irons but it took me like 20 tries over 5 days to get it.  And the myriad of contraptions I used to try and steady the fan and wires to get a stable surface to solder on.... but eventually I bought a new fan off ebay for a few bucks and while it was on the way, I got it soldered. so now I have an extra fan for backup.
btw, the fan I ordered on ebay came with about 9 inches of wires and the connector.

On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 8:02:28 PM UTC-5, Bryon Miller wrote: