Download 18 Wheels Of Steel

[Kandy Swartzel]

ProComps Rock Crawler Xtreme Series 51 Black Steel wheels come in sizes and back spacing that fit your needs. The Rock Crawler Xtreme Wheels use the finest materials along with a durable flat black powder coating and state-of-the-art production equipment to produce a superior steel wheel. NOTE: Center cap and lug nuts sold separately.Your rims do more than just hold your tires and attach to your vehicle. They must be sturdy and dependable to take a beating when you're on the trails. Even if you're not always rock crawling or hill climbing, your wheels must be tough enough to handle unseen obtacles: tree roots, rocks, debris and more. There's no doubt that the Pro Comp 51 Series wheels make the grade - they earn consistently high marks from our riders for their performance and durability. And 4 Wheel Parts is your source for 51 Series wheels and the best deals on all your off-roading gear. Your Destination for Pro Comp Rock Crawler Wheels Sure, having Rock Crawler" in the name doesn't automatically make it a rock crawling tire. But Pro Comp 51 Series wheels are crafted from super-strong steel and using the company's innovative production techniques. Not only are Rock Crawler steel wheels ready for your roughest ride, but they also look great. Their durable flat black powder coating compliments any off-road vehicle, lending a touch of classic style. Many retailers offer Pro Comp 51 Series wheels, but 4 Wheel Parts offers the best savings. Our everyday low prices make it affordable to gear up for any adventure. Order online and choose our convenient shipping or Curbside Store Pickup options.

It's hard to beat the classic looks of a steel wheel, with or without accessories, and many contemporary builders are turning to steel wheels for their projects. Whether you're restoring or building period-looking vehicle, Coker Tire Company offers a large selection of steel wheels and accessories to complete the look.

Pro Comp Rock Crawler Xtreme Series 252 Gloss Black Steel wheels come in an array of sizes and back spacings that fit your needs. The Rock Crawler Xtreme Wheels use the finest materials along with a durable gloss or flat black powder coating and state-of-the-art production equipment to produce a superior steel wheel. NOTE: Center cap and lug nuts sold separately.

Yup, I've seen Farmall 656s on 34" rears with stamped steel too. They look a lot like the stamped centers on our F560 with 34" rears. Don't recall ever seeing any 38" equipped models with stamped centers.

OK THATS WHAT I AM GETTING AT. I SEEN SOME 666/686 WITH STAMP CENTERS. WHAT IS THE ADVANTAGE OR DISADVANTAGE OF THESE CENTER? PRICE CHEAPER HAVING THAM WHEN NEW? ANYONE KNOW IF THEY MADE THEM IN 38'S ALSO?

CaseIh parts list the stamped steel 16x34 rims as option for 560-686. With that said the hub and rim numbers are not the same. The 560 is separate from 656-686. CaseIh also list a cast center for 656-686 that is for 34's. There was a dealer in northeast Pa that had a 666 gas with those cast 34's on it. They look similar to the cast 34's on the larger frame models except they mount to the 9 bolt hubs, and use 15 or 16 double bevel rims. This set would be very nice on a "M' puller. I have been looking for an affordable set for some time.

JERRY I THINK YOUR WRONG THERE BUDDY. WHEN MY DAD BOUGHT OUR 666 IT WAS A RETURN LEASE FROOM A CANNING COMPANY. IT HAD THE CAST 34 CENTERS WITH 34 RIMS AND TIRES. MY DAD TOLD THE DEALER HE WOULD NOT TAKE IT UNLESS HE PUT 38 CAST CENTERS/RIMS AND TIRES ON IT.

Checked on caseih parts, they only list pressed steel for 706 up with dual wheel option. That doesn't mean they were not used as singles if inventory were low. I have seen pictures of 706's with pressed steel singles. My 63-65 vintage owner/operator manual does not list as a single wheel option. 708-806 did use a separate hub and cast center on the standard tread tractors. This is similar to the 656-686 setup. I think that these hubs are 12 bolt not the standard 9. I tried to count them from a picture in my '64 full line brochure but can't say for sure.

JERRY MAYBE YOU COULD GET 34'S EITHER WAY CAST CENTERS AND PRESS STEEL......WHAT WOULD BE A ADVANTAGE OR DISADVANTAGE OF HAVING PRESSED STEEL. WISH DR. EVIL WOULD JUMP IN HE COULD SHED SOME LIGHT ON THIS MATTER MAYBE.....

WELL I KNOW FOR A FACT OUR 666 HAD 34'S CAST CENTERS AND MY DAD WOULD NOT BUY IT UNTIL THE DEALER SWITCHED IT OVER TO 38'S CAST CENTER. WAS 34'S CAST AVAILIBLE ON A 656 AT THE TIME? MAYBE THE CANNING COMPANY SPECIAL ORDERED THEM THAT WAY?

Caseih parts store shows part number 391279r1 for hub and 405810r1 for cast center. This is for f666 when you look it up. f656 and f686 are the same. This will also show the parts diagram. Your owner/operator manual may not list these as they may be either early or late production and do correspond with the date of print on your manual.

But alloy wheels ARE better. They are generally lighter, especially if you consider the weight of the hub caps and/or wheel covers. So there are benefits in ride and handling. They are also better looking and allow for some styling to take place. And while they do corrode, the corrosion is less visible than rust.

It is way easier to style an aluminum wheel, you have so many options! As for wheel diameter, CapriRacer is spot on. Bigger brakes. Asbestos removal is one reason for bigger brakes but so is the far greater traction afforded by modern tires and the increased speed of modern engines. The kinetic energy grows the the speed squared. That means you need a bigger chunk of iron to absorb the heat of a 135 mph to 0 stop and bigger diameter to cool them off.

When it comes to trailer wheels, no one offers better quality than we do. Plus you can simply select a style, then add your tire, chose a valve stem and we'll even build the trailer tire and rim assembly for you. Don't forget to add balancing if you want the smoothest ride possible. You want great pricing, we've got you covered. In fact, we believe we have the best wheel and tire selection for every trailer. We offer discount programs for clubs and a bulk ordering discount too. From snow machines to boating, and even construction. We have the black, white, silver, galvanized and aluminum trailer wheels you're looking for.

Just wanted some in put on steel or aluminum wheels on the puller vehicle and/or trailer, to improve fuel mileage. Less rotating weight on each wheel, should take less horsepower and fuel . Now the cost of switching to aluminum wheels, may take a few tanks of fuel to pay off,($4000) Has any one switched wheels and found a few 10's in fuel mileage ? GVW is no usually a reason to go aluminum, with puller, more for looks. Thank you OU812

We bought 2 used ones from Geiger truck parts in Illinois when I was passing thru for around $200 each, polished them myself and then we had some friends of my sons that have a trucking outfit changed them over. They did them for free so I gave them the old steel rims for their time and use of equipment.

$4000 is quite a lot unless you are changing 10 of them and they are polished. If you change both inner & outer rears, make sure your rear studs are long enough as aluminum wheels are thicker. We were ok with changing just the outers but if we had done both, we would have needed longer studs.

The manufacturer's website claimed about 1% when I did mine, or about 7 years - 700,000 miles to pay for the wheels with the fuel savings. It's not only about looks and mpg's. They're built significantly truer, and they're less vulnerable to damage from curb strikes, etc., so they stay truer and run more smoothly for a longer period of time, at least in my experience. ymmv

The only reason ever cited for aluminum wheels in the trucking industry is the weight savings. I have never heard any claims about mileage. Mark's comment about forged vs stamped might have an effect on tire wear or balance, but nothing on economy.

Another potential advantage depending on where you travel would be aluminum's better tolerance of corrosive environments such as road salt up north and the salty atmosphere like here at the beach in south Texas. On our previous six year old rig the spare was steel and the other six rims were aluminum. The steel spare was badly rusted from six winters at the beach, the aluminums were in good shape. On our new rig we ordered two aluminum spares to match the six other rims. Best Wishes, Jay

Aluminum is better for corrosion??? By road salt? I live in a "plenty salty" area...and I will NEVER buy a vehicle with aluminum rims again given the choice. The aluminum rims start leaking after about 5 years around the stem. White corrosion. if you catch it right away you MIGHT get lucky and be able to clean it up and clearcoat it and make it work...otherwise the rims are junk. Every steel rim I got is still working just fine thank you, although I might have to repaint them now and then.

I did 2 just this year...2005 LDT and 2009 Buick. Stem leak. All the rims on the '05 LDT are going bad...corrosion under the clearcoat (looks like bubbled powdercoat!) Contrast that to the '82 Chevy with steel rims that still work and look just fine, just a little surface rust,

Now, I can see the sea breeze thing. Anything steel will be worse in that area. Actually, aluminum isn't much better, its the clearcoat they put on it that prevents instant oxidation. We once installed 2 gensets near the ocean that had aluminum fin radiators. 2 years, and the radiators looked like something off a 1950's tractor...just crumbled to dust.

I do not think the difference in fuel economy between steel and and aluminum wheels will be measurable in the real world. The weight difference on the rig is pretty insignificant when you look at the total weight.

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