La Mafia Trattoria

[Esam Rosado]

Welcomeback to Restaurant Confessionals, where we talk to the unheard voices of the restaurant industry from both the front-of-house (FOH) and back-of-house (BOH) about what really goes on behind the scenes at your favorite establishments. In this installment, we speak with a restaurant owner whose parents' business partner got involved with the mob.

Unfortunately, this was not the case with my parents' business partner, who had already overextended his line of credit with banks and any other type of loan, which is why we think he resorted to getting a loan from the Russian mafia. Things only got progressively shittier after he did that.

The signs were all there, but I was so young that I didn't put two and two together. Later in life, when I opened up my own restaurant, I learned about the power that gangs and mafias still have over businesses in Los Angeles. The first thing I remember are these sketchy dudes with Russian accents who would always come by to ask if my parents' business partner was there; the guy would hide somewhere in the restaurant and tell me to tell these scary-looking dudes that he wasn't around. Sometimes they would come by a couple times a week, yet my parents' business partner would never want to confront them.

All the while, those Russian dudes would still come by the restaurant and wouldn't stop asking for my parents' partner. Sure, the restaurant was located in the San Fernando Valley to begin with, which is a weird part of Los Angeles by any measure. It is home to not only a lot of Russian immigrants, but also to a lot of Mexican gangs, illegal street vendors, and celebrities who can't afford to buy a house in Beverly Hills.

I want to say that this poor guy didn't deserve what was happening to him, but I would be lying. He was a bad operator and treated all of his employees like shit, so I guess that was karma's strange ways of making things right again. The ironic thing is that the restaurant received its fair share of accolades, getting reviewed by the LA Times and even getting a write-up by Jonathan Gold back when he was at LA Weekly. The food was good, but good food alone sometimes isn't enough.

Eventually, the Russian guys stopped coming and we found out that the poor guy had to ask his parents to lend him the money to pay them back. I suspect that the sum was somewhere in the ballpark of $50,000 to $100,000. To nobody's surprise, this restaurant model proved to be unsustainable and we went out of business. Of course, not before getting shut down by the Sheriff department first, probably because the restaurant had been a marked a crime hot spot with all of the break-ins (and unpaid taxes).

While there is nothing light-hearted about real crime families, TV shows like The Sopranos and countless movies have made loveable characters out mobsters. In reality, "Fat Tony" Rabito probably wouldn't be the best dinner companion -- especially if you owe him money -- but eating at the hallowed Mafia haunt in Brooklyn where he's been banned from offers a side of excitement for thrill-seeking diners.

Recently Mark Iacono, owner of Lucali, another Brooklyn eatery with speculated ties to the mob, made headlines recently when he got into a knife fight with a known wiseguy on the street near the pizzeria. Now charged with attempted murder, his new notoriety puts the reality of the Mafia into stark relief. But just like viewers can live vicariously through the reality program Mob Wives without being married to the mob, visitors to these 13 restaurants can sop up the same spaghetti sauce without dodging bullets. We hope.

To catch some present-day gangster action, ultra-exclusive Rao's and scene-of-the-crime Sparks Steak House are the usual suspects, while Chicago's Green Mill takes you back to Al Capone's heyday. Instead of a fedora and pin-stripe suit, these days goodfellas are more likely to be juiceheads that look something like Caf Martorano's owner, nephew of former South Philly mobster "Long John" Martorano, although he chose the culinary life over La Cosa Nostra.

Many of the mobster restaurants are a real slice of Americana. History buffs gravitate towards places like Campisi's in Dallas, where mob-affiliated Jack Ruby, Lee Harvey Oswald's hit man, was known to hang out, and hipsters can check out a real speakeasy in Providence, R.I. -- Camille's which has seen many a famous face, whether a made man or a Hollywood leading man.

Rao's, New York City

With all the photos of mobsters lining the walls, there's no hiding the mafia connection behind this East Harlem institution. Even Martin Scorsese used Rao's as inspiration for "Goodfellas." Alongside wiseguys, you can enjoy classic Italian food with celebrity regulars such as Woody Allen. Most likely you're going to have to know someone to get a seat. If you don't, at least you can try their line of jarred pasta sauces.

Valbella, Greenwich, Conn.

The Greenwich, Conn., restaurant was mentioned in the book Making Jack Falcone: An Undercover FBI Agent Takes Down a Mafia Family According to agent Joaquin Garcia, the Gambino crime family had a regular table at the ritzy establishment.

Il Mulino, New York City

Opened by the Masci brothers, hailing from Abruzzo, in 1981, the Greenwich Village spot was blacklisted by the NYPD at one point for being an upscale favorite of mobsters. However, if Presidents Barack Obama and Bill Clinton have dined there, we question how notorious Il Mulino can still be.

Green Mill, Chicago

Way back in the day, Al Capone was a regular at this Chicago cocktail lounge. A secret passageway behind the bar that allowed for an easy escape is still around today, which might come in handy if you're at the Green Mill on a blind date.

Bamonte's, New York City

The more than a century-old Williamsburg, Brooklyn, haunt was a favorite of mob consigliere "Fat Tony" Rabito of the Bonanno family. The Feds the portly Rabito from returning to this eatery, among others, after his release from prison in 2009.

Campisi's Egyptian Lounge, Dallas

This Dallas, Texas, restaurant was opened by a Joe Campisi, a member of the Civello mob family. Close personal friend and regular patron, Jack Ruby, who assassinated Lee Harvey Oswald, was said to have eaten at Campisi's the night before the Kennedy assassination.

Sparks Steak House, New York City

Mob boss "Big Paul" Castellano and his bodyguard were gunned down at the entrance to the Midtown Manhattan steakhouse, allowing John Gotti to take his spot as head of the Gambino crime family. Rapper Cam'ron name-dropped Castellano and Sparks in "Welcome to New York City."

Bomb Bomb Bar-B-Q Grill, Philadelphia

This South Philly eatery was at one time a regular hangout for mobsters. Frank Barbato Sr. bought the restaurant in 1951, and named it after an infamous pair of mob-related explosions that had occurred on the site 15 years before. Today, Frank Jr.'s attempts to downplay the mafia past has had mixed results. While his barbecue has won local praise, veal Parmesan remains the most popular item on the menu.

Tommaso, New York City

Most restaurateurs would not consider the opening of a mob hangout next door to be good for business. Tom Verdillo thought differently. Shortly after the restaurant opened in 1974, Gambino boss Joe Castellano opened up his "social club" next door. He soon became a regular at Tommaso, even supplying provisions like steaks along with a steady stream of customers. Verdillo came to think of Castellano as a brother, venturing out to Staten Island to cater at his home. However, you'll have to make the trip to the South Brooklyn neighborhood of Dyker Heights to enjoy the classic southern Italian staples such as spaghetti carbonara and grilled veal chop.

Cafe Martorano, Ft. Lauderdale, Fla.

This popular Fort Lauderdale restaurant is owned by Philly transplants and relatives of murdered mobster Raymond "Long John" Martorano. While apparently frequented by local mobsters, you're probably more likely to see buff bods and owner Steve (left) showing off his DJ skills.

Mosca's, New Orleans

Opened in 1946, it had been a favorite hangout for the powerful New Orleans Marcello crime family, especially former mob boss Carlos Marcello. The James Beard award winner is still owned and operated by the Mosca family, who renovated the space post-Katrina but kept the Creole-Italian menu intact.

The Flamingo, Las Vegas

Legendary mobster Bugsy Siegel was an early investor in the classic Las Vegas casino, and eventually muscled his way into taking over the project. After a number of delays, the opulent casino finally opened in late 1946, but a lack of business failed to impress his mob backers, who had Bugsy gunned down in his Beverly Hills home six months later. However, today you're not likely to run into any mobsters dining at the Jimmy Buffett-inspired restaurant Margaritaville. Still, the dcor brings to mind the Rat Pack glory days.

Camille's, Providence, R.I.

Founded in 1914, the first iteration of Camille's became famous for making illegal booze and serving it to customers during Prohibition. In addition to Presidents and celebrities, it has been visited by members of the New England mafia, including the late Providence mob boss Raymond L.S. Patriarca. Its future is now uncertain, however, after the current owner recently sold the building.

Well, turns out, this apparently has happened more often than one might think. A number of Tumblonians (name suggested by striped_frog, but, really, what do you call Tumblr users, anyway?) shared their crime front stories, which for the most part were restaurants, but were certainly not limited to that.

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