There is an economic decision that underlies the choice between a
plastic and a ceramic too tip.
Inevitably, the friction to turn the threaded adjustment slug will
reach the breaking point of one or the other.
The plastic tool will break off at the tip. The remedy is the cost of
another tool, and a dental pick to tease the broken plastic back out
of the slot in the adjusting slug.
The ceramic tool will not break so easily. The brittle ferrite tuning
slug WILL. Some types will then press outwards against the inside of
the coil form when you try to turn it after this. Kinda like the
centrifugal clutch in a go-kart. Seizes the slug against the interior
surface of the coil form. The remedy depends on the construction of
the adjustable coil, as to how the cracked slug may be removed, let
alone identify and obtain a new one that fits and has the correct
materials recipe. Those tuning slugs are not all made from the same
material. Many of the radios we service have a double-ended slug,
accessible only from the top once the coil is soldered to a pc board..
Unsoldering the coil from the pc board exposes the undamaged end of
the slug. Turning it (carefully) to exit the bottom, removing the
fragments, reinserting it from the top and resoldering the coil to the
pc board is a familiar procedure here. Simply turning the slug too far
in the clockwise direction can cause it to seize in place.
The Ebay kit shown does not appear to have a 1.3 mm ( or so) flat tip
visible.
Good chance that the "G-C" brand type 9440 tool from Peerless
Electronics
(502) 637-7677 will fit the slot in your coils' tuning
slugs. It's the sacrificial-plastic type, so buy more than one.
73