Model Trains Steam

[Siri]

Additionalcars

While the locomotive is generally the star of the show when it comes to model steam trains, why not have it pull a few tenders to make it more realistic? The Mamod model steam train collection includes a variety of cars that coordinate perfectly with our locomotives, with the same attention to detail and beautiful finish.

What do you think are the best operating steam engines more or less readily available in HO? This could include limited releases still available on Ebay or at shows, like for example the Bachmann EM-1 2-8-8-4, which can be found out there.

I am not on some personal agenda here so please don't read more into this. My son did not get much baseball playing time this year (local politics), so now the oldest will need to play travel baseball to get more playing time, which will cost money. I have sold all my brass models and all hybrids except my son's engine...and am selling more expensive rolling stock too.

Being a huge Rio Grande articulated fan, as a replacement for the engines leaving, I ordered a recent run brand new in box Athearn Genesis L-97 (diverted from UP order) 4-6-6-4. It is actually wonderful...runs great, does not accumulate track dirt on tender wheels like some other engines, and the sound never cuts out. I particularly like the metal handrails that stay in position, and the lighted numberboards.

P.S. I have had premature plating wear, with excessive dirt and metal plating dust buildup on my mostly Kato and very smooth rails with some other makes of HO steam (not the brass). If the wheels are wearing, the plating gunk ends up on tender wheels destroying power pickup and dcc sound operation. Maybe for you things are different, but that is my experience. I do not and have not had that experience with any Genesis steam power--for me they have been very good.

I had a Genesis USRA Mikado about 15-years ago and aside tweaking it to get to run without derailling on my club's layout (tweaks were easy, and the club's track hadn't been the best quality). And a split axle gear which they fixed pretty quickly back then, I liked it a lot and had been impressed with the smooth running even at low speeds. It did not pull to bad either, 40-cars on level track presented no problems for it.

My current steam collection is all BLI. Three Pennsy K4s, a Paragon1 and Paragon2 that I converted over to TCS-Wow decoders, and a Paragon2 with the OEM decoder. I also have two Reading T1s, a P2 and P3. I initially liked P2 more then P3 soundwise, but in recent times I've started to like the sounds a little better, and the running qualities significantly better. And considering for how much they go for, they're not a bad value if Reading T1s are what one likes. The P3 model I've found runs considerably more smoothly and starts at a crawl on speed-step 1 which seems quite appropriate for a model who's prototype had been used in heavy freight service. Mine has traction tires and easily pulls 60-car trains on my current club's layout without problem. I don't run the smoke units in either of the T1s, so I cannot comment on how good they are.

My best runner ever is a PSC/Boo Rim Rock Island 2-8-2, currently in Montana with David Long for minor but professional paint touch up before final sale on Ebay...dont really want to sell but the Genesis Challenger will make it more bearable, and runs nearly as well.

Worst was either the Mint Key M64 Northern whose valve gear started falling off while it ran, or Das Supergrowlen, the PFM Crown DRGW M75 4-8-2 I once got from John Glaab that had never been run by anybody in the US, and was truly mint in every way.

I don't remember Overland doing the WM H-9 in HO. I painted 2 in O scale for a fellow in Houston though and they were gorgeous. I have several of the H9 imported by Oriental Ltd. and also PFM. The Oriental came factory painted and the PFM's were all naked brass. Wanna buy an Oriental model?

Hands Down my pick is my PCM Y6b 2-8-8-2. It will take tight turns and tracks like it is on rails! Sound is great with dual speakers, slow speed is Great! Talk about pulling power? Pulled 89 coal cars by it self on K-10 Model Trains 60' X 80' layout.

In brass I have a Key Light Mountain, Sunset Heavy Mikado, Sunset Light Pacific, and Alco 0-8-0. All are USRA models and all of them run beautifully. I also have a PFM/United "logging" 2-6-2 that has an open frame motor but runs surprisingly quiet and smooth. No need for a repower on that model.

Well I was wanting to get a Rio Grande 2-6-6-2 or even an L-131 2-8-8-2, but most affordable L-131's need regeared, remotored and repainted, and most of the really good 2-6-6-2's are rare and big money. The Custom Brass one is hard to find now, and the PFM 2-6-6-0, with a decent paint job by my guy will easily exceed the cost of two mail order blowout Genesis Challengers. So even though Rio Grande did not like them, the UP version Challengers look like a relative bargain.

Yes I am aware of the Proto 2000 L-107, and the only ones on Ebay recently were poorly weathered...If anyone has an extra Proto 2000 DRGW L-107 2-8-8-2, please let me know, thanks all. It is the non-N&W version, for those less familiar with the big mamma jamas.

In my fleet I would have to say that my P2K 2-8-4 is my best performer and it pulls a good sized consist up my 1.5% grade. My Bachmanns run reliably buy don't have the pulling power. I've got a number of BLI and most give me good performance but I've had more issues with some them than I would expect from a high end product.

"Brass": In general, Santa Fe brass steam locomotives produced in the last 15 years (such as class 885 2-8-2s and class 900 2-10-2s imported by Division Point, or the class 3460 Hudsons imported by Glacier Park) operate flawlessly; however, the price is accordingly. For older brass, the Samhongsa/Key class 3160 Mikados with the coasting drive are unmatched in their performance.

the Akane 2-6-6-6 C&O Allegenney. Would LITERALLY pull the wall paper and siding off of a house. Not great details by todays standards, but for running nothing could touch it . Ran smoothly, quietly and would creep along if you wanted it too.

The best operating steam loco that is readily available? My choice would be the 1st run BLI Hybrid New Haven I-5 4-6-4 (QSI). The loco weighs in at 2 lbs., will run at 80mph, and will pull a 12 car passenger train up a 2.5% grade without traction tires. The 2nd run I-5 (Paragon 2) had traction tires and a smoke unit which means it weighs a little less.

The best operating steam engine I've ever seen is the brass W&R New Haven Y-3 0-8-0 (USRA). Basically a match for the LLP2K USRA 0-8-0, the W&R model is even better running. Top speed is low, but then it's a switcher. Pulling power? Plenty, especially with some more lead sheet inside. The clincher is that it is soooo smooth and silent. There is not a single hitch or bind, there is no gear noise. Easily the best I've seen or heard.

It's been re-detailed a number of times since I got it, used, in the mid-'50s. A great runner and puller, it still has it's original open-frame motor, but is currently torn down. I'll be changing out the brass drivers for plated ones from Greenway, and may equip it with a NWSL gearbox, too.

While it's unlikely that I'll buy another locomotive, the best over-all locomotives for me were the Bachmann Consolidations.

I also have a number of brass engines which I have used extensively, among my favorites is an old United WP 2-8-2 which after a good break in and added weight, took 3rd place for Steam Performance at the 1977 Denver NMRA Convention.

Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!

Sheldon, How does this final product look? I have looked at the Proto 2-8-8-2 a time or two, and I always thought the trailing truck looked a little silly. I can't exactly figure out what is off about it, but it is not right to my eye.

While the trailing truck on the USRA/Y3 2-8-8-2 does "look funny", that is the way they were. It was not there so much to support weight but to "steer" the loco when backing up, just like a lead truck steers the loco going forward.

Model Train Stuff is your ultimate destination for locomotives for model railroading enthusiasts! Model locomotives are miniature replicas of real-life trains, available in various scale models ranging from the impressive O scale to the intricate Z scale. These locomotives can be powered by different methods such as steam, diesel, gas, and electric, and can be controlled manually or through digital command control (DCC).

Discover the perfect locomotive to bring your model railroad layout to life. We offer a diverse range of diesel locomotives, electric locomotives, and steam locomotives to cater to your specific needs. Choose from HO Scale locomotives, N Scale locomotives, and more, from top railroading brands like Athearn, Bachmann Trains, Walthers, and many others.

ACCESSIBILITY: Model Train Stuff is devoted to providing an accessible web experience to all of our customers, including those with disabilities. We are continuously enhancing our website in alignment with the WCAG 2.1 Level A and AA guidelines. For assistance, please reach out to us at (828) 341-2295 or via email at custom...@modeltrainstuff.com.

When it comes down to realism, model steamers and diesels run with electric motors doesn't make it. Only model electric locomotives fill the bill. One exception would be the New Haven railroad that had diesels that could also operate off the power grid. That is why I prefer to run electric model engines over steam or diesel. I'm not saying steam or diesel is not realistic, it's just the thought that a steam or diesel engine is run by an electric motor just doesn't fit into the 100% realistic scene. In my case, I have limited myself to northeast, specificly New York area railroads and other railroads that ran electrics.

3a8082e126