Idylis Deep Freezer Settings
Adam Makin
WIRING with extension cord
Cut a 6 inch section out of the middle of the extension cord. There need to be black, white and green wires that can be separated and stripped. Complete the wiring with the push on connectors. This wiring diagram shows the proper connections, but it is better to have a 3 way push on connection prior to 8, to only have one wire go into the 8 socket, and the third wire to 10. The white wire can be set up the same way, with a 3 way connection prior to 7. The ground wire is spliced together with a 2 way push on connection. The extension cord is plugged into a regular outlet
PROGRAMMING
3) This is my TS-13010 programming to keep the temperature an average of 36 degrees. The switch turns on at 38, off at 36, and the temperature continues to 34 degrees. Having the probe attached to a container of water at the bottom of the fridge results in a smaller temperature range, and less compressor cycling.
TESTING
4) Plug the chest freezer into the extension cord, and plug the other end into the wall (or plug the freezer into the switch in the wall). Verify that the chest fridge conversion is working as expected. Make any adjustments in programming. Move food from the old refrigerator to the new chest fridge conversion.
The compressor heat does go into the room regardless. The less it runs, the less heat that goes into the room. You could put foam insulation or radiant barrier foil inside the compresser compartment, which might keep some of the heat from getting into the fridge. Let me know how the conversion works out for you. I am very happy with this one!
I also converted my chest freezer to a fridge since I am off grid on solar. I have the freezer plugges into a timer, and it runs 1/2 at a time for 7 times per day and it stays around 40 degrees. I also put several 5 gal water jugs in the bottom for thermal mass to keep the temperature more constant when it is off.
Do you have to disable the thermostat that comes installed with the freezer?
Also the instructions with the Love controller are very confusing to me, Is the R1 and R2 the only temps that need to be set?
I got it done, I called Love controller and they explained the settings to me. SP is the temp to be concerned with, and the RO is the diff that will allow it to go above the set point before it kicks in. I used 37 deg so unit will kick on at 42, with an ro diff of 5. Since I will only use occasionally in primitive camp, and power with generator for now, I bought a 5 cf freezer , in the bottom i set, 4- 1 gallon milk jugs pre frozen with a sheet of plexiglass over top of them will help my thermal cooling at night without generator. I think it will work great, plan on using this weekend. Thanks for the help. Thanks a bunch for the wire diagram, made it easy, Love should use it for instructions. .
To program the TS-13010 love digital temperature switch:
press [set] with the temperature showing
press the [down] button once and release
continue holding the [set] button down for 10 seconds or longer
the display will change from the temperature to 0 or 00
release and press the [set] button again
SP will appear, press [set] once then [up] or [down] to program
repeat [set] release, and [up] or [down] to program the other settings
The chest fridge results in some water buildup from condensation on the bottom of the chest. I usually wipe this out once every few weeks with a sponge. It is not any problem, but is a concern that it might cause some rust in the chest.
Thanks for this great idea. I plan to try it soon but have a question: The power company where I live changes generators every 12 hours so our power goes off twice a day for a while. Would I have to reset the temperature control each time? Thanks.
Yes, you can use a temperature control with an upright freezer or fridge. However this would not work well, because the cold goes out every time you open the door, and the temperature swings would be too great to maintain a reasonable temperature. Using a chest freezer or fridge is key in order to keep the cold inside where you want it to be.
An excellent conversion. We have a glass freezer from an old bar we are looking to use as a fridge. We are interested in your project.
I would like to know how your power consumption measurements were done.
Yes, some people cut a hole in the lid and put the switch there, taking care to not cut the coils (which are usually in the sides). The switch does get warm, so my preference is to have it located away from the frame.
I am just getting started in making a freezer into a refrigerator and would like to know how reliable the controller from ebay is compared to the love controller and how long will they last.
Sincerely
Thomas
Brent,
well i have a regular freezer and this frez/frig and a aquarium running all the time on solar, but i plugged in my kill a watt and the frez/frig showed 695 surge 120 running. so should be ok with a 1000 watt puresine inverter.
then as far as panels and batteries would depend on how sunny of a place you have. you could start with one panel with a charge controller and a deep cycle battery and add panels and batteries as needed. I like dealing with wholesalesolar myself.
3 amps is the peak when the compressor first starts, not the average. 80 watts is the average when the compressor is running. As the compressor is running less than 1/10 of the time, the fridge uses less than 8 watts per hour. The temperature control uses very little energy, around 1 watt per hour, and is included in the 8 watts per hour.
Condensation is not much of an issue, but can result from greens and other vegetables giving off moisture on the inside of the cabinet. Storing them in containers helps. I usually wipe out the bottom of the cabinet every month or two, though doing this weekly would probably be good.
I set the temperature probe inside a small plastic bag of water on the left side because the compressor is on the right side. The water bag hangs on the freezer basket, which is at about 75% of the height from the floor. I never opened the door during the tests.
Hi Melissa,
In case the temperature controls already have zero cross switching, perhaps check the specs or contact the businesses that make them. Your question is new to me, so please let me know what you find.
Looks like something like this might do it. You can switch it with 120 vac and the relay function is zero crossing, so it would avoid spikes when turning the condenser on & off and make it last longer?
Cut a 6 inch section out of the middle of the extension cord. There need to be black, white and green wires that can be separated and stripped. Complete the wiring with the push on connectors. This wiring diagram shows the proper connections, but it is better to have a 3 way push on connection prior to 8, to only have one wire go into the 8 socket, and the third wire to 10. The white wire can be set up the same way, with a 3 way connection prior to 7. The ground wire is spliced together with a 2 way push on connection. The extension cord is plugged into a regular outlet
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John,
Can you imagine a scenario such as this working? A chest freezer left as a working freezer yet forming a insulated compartment in the freezer that would be used as a refrigerator by allowing some cold air into the insulated compartment for cooling. I have read that some freezers are much more efficient than refrigerators anyway. Then one has the chest style door factor. If one could use the correct type of insulation with a sufficient amount of air seepage from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to compensate for how often the chest door is opened to access the refrigerator section, while the freezer section has an interior door that would remain closed. Or does it make more sense to have a chest refrigerator and a separate freezer?