300 Tdi alternator

[Jakob Jordaan]

I am looking for an alternator for a 300 Tdi and remember that somebody mentioned fitting a Bosch with a special fitting adaptor.  Could somebody perhaps steer me in the right direction?  Anything special that I need to be aware of?

 

Groete

 

Jakob

082-808-1422

 

[Norma & Andy Johnston]

Jacob

I got an adaptor from Jim Attrill. He was selling it for someone else.

Regards

Andy Johnston

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[Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)]

Hi Jacob

 

The biggest generic Bosch you get is a 70 amp. Jim Attrill has/had bracket that is a straight bolt on. For a Defender it works fine but 70 amps is too little for a Disco. Got a Bosh on my 90 but had to go back to the original on the Disco. Bosch part number is 9 120 690 146 (also marked K1__14V 70A)

 

Regards

 

Alex van der Horst

 

Tel: 012 997 1245

Fax: 088 012 997 5324

Cell: 082 396 9782

Email: al...@alexvdhorst.co.za

PO Box 40579

Moreleta Ridge

0044

 

From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jakob Jordaan
Sent: 13 June 2008 04:17 PM
To: LROC Techtorque
Subject: [LROC Techtorque] 300 Tdi alternator

 

I am looking for an alternator for a 300 Tdi and remember that somebody mentioned fitting a Bosch with a special fitting adaptor.  Could somebody perhaps steer me in the right direction?  Anything special that I need to be aware of?

 

Groete

 

Jakob

082-808-1422

 

 

[Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)]

I have a sad looking Disco leaning to the right. Looks like the right front spring is collapsing. What is the thinking going for OEM replacements or going for Old Man Emu Iron Man etc.

[Philip Lochner]

I've had a Bosch 70A on my V8 disco for years......(which consume more power than a TDI??  ECU, EFI, electric windows etc)

 

Dual battery, Engel 60L fridge, winch...  My dual battery charging "system" consist of a single solenoid which gets pulled in and connects both batteries in parallel as soon as the alt starts charging (and drops out when it stops)

 

IIRC, I had to grind away a small portion of both the alt and the bracket to make it fit.

 

Kind regards

Philip Lochner

[Philip]  -----Original Message-----
From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)
Sent: 17 June 2008 08:24 AM
To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [LROC Techtorque] Re: 300 Tdi alternator

[Jakob Jordaan]

Alex,

 

Why did you back to original on your Disco?

 

Groete

 

Jakob

082-808-1422

 

From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)
Sent: 17 June 2008 08:24
To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [LROC Techtorque] Re: 300 Tdi alternator

 

Hi Jacob

style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>

 

[Mike Ilsley]

I have had the bosch unit on my TDi for more than 3 years now, and although it puts out slightly less than the std, it has given me no problems.

 

Rgds

Mike

 

Mike Ilsley

Delivery Manager

Information Technology

Comair Limited

Swb: +27 (0) 11 921 0111

Direct: +27 (0) 11 281 5797

Cell: +27 (0) 82 880 8695

Fax: +27 (0) 86 644 3199

Email: mike....@comair.co.za

Skype: mikeils

Web: www.comair.co.za

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[Philip Lochner]

Dont blame the springs when in fact it is you who has to lose weight ;-)

 

If increased ride height is not a requirement, stick to OEM

 

If you want lift then go for the others but be careful for hard springs.  With your air springs you should not have to go for heavy duty springs at the back but medium all round (or even soft in front).

 

Kind regards

Philip Lochner

-----Original Message-----
From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)
Sent: 17 June 2008 08:26 AM
To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com

[Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)]

Had problems keeping the battery charged. That was after a new alternator and visiting the auto sparky. I then replaced the main feed from the alternator to the fuse box and problem was solved. I suspect it was the old cable as it was not in a good condition. I suppose a 70 amp bosh would now also do the trick but I already had the new alternator  in. That is what I call a T-shirt of experience. Use a nice thick 16mm2 wire from the alternator with no joints. The generic alternator does not have a w terminal but look at the picture and you put one in yourself. Also never believe the up rated alternator lie. I have a supposed 100 amp brand new here. They do 100 amps at 11 volts. You get nothing for free in this world. Big alternator gives big amps. Small alternator does not it is simple physics. The only nice about them is that they have had a new front casing made that bolts straight in. Does not work on the 70 amp though.

 

 

Regards

 

Alex van der Horst

 

Tel: 012 997 1245

Fax: 088 012 997 5324

Cell: 082 396 9782

Email: al...@alexvdhorst.co.za

PO Box 40579

Moreleta Ridge

0044

 

From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jakob Jordaan
Sent: 17 June 2008 08:46 AM
To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [LROC Techtorque] Re: 300 Tdi alternator

 

Alex,

[Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)]

Thanks Philip

 

Would like to keep the ride soft and supple. I use the air helpers all the time when loaded. Old M E is R2700 a set and OEM Bearmach blue is R1700 a set so 1k more for OME. Will have to think about that a bit. Only had good reports on OME so far.

 

Regards

 

Alex van der Horst

 

Tel: 012 997 1245

Fax: 088 012 997 5324

Cell: 082 396 9782

Email: al...@alexvdhorst.co.za

PO Box 40579

Moreleta Ridge

0044

 

<BR

[Philip Lochner]

My Bosch 70A # 9 123 310 029 came WITH the W terminal.  IIRC I had to swop the pulley from the old to the new alt - slight difference in size.

 

Kind regards

Philip Lochner

-----Original Message-----
From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)

[Andre Oberholster]

Alex – hope you read the feedback in last month’s newsletter after the Suspension Talk? Ag nee man, skaam jou!   My personal opinion is to speak to Afrishox. It could save you a lot of ‘hartseer’ as they guarantee satifaction as they do not supply off-the-shelf items.   My Disco has the full set of OME coils & shocks. I find the coils are really very good – medium in front, soft a back. Very stable vehicle, good loadability, much more supple than OEM. I think other manufacturers will have a hard time beating OME coils.   OME shocks – very good as well – for general purpose. But they are not built for endurance as they bottom out too easily once they have heat soaked on BAD roads. OK, I know what you are thinking – but no, the front shocks also bottomed out after about 2 hours of hard work.  Quite a disappointment. I will not ever again consider anything else available on the market. I am looking at replacing them with the Custom units from Afrishox as soon as the petrol price comes down……L   Once you have seen their design, test rig and shock dyno you will see what I am talking about! Regards, André O

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[Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)]

Hi Andre

 

I did read it but also wanted real life experiences.

 

Regards

 

Alex van der Horst

 

Tel: 012 997 1245

Fax: 088 012 997 5324

Cell: 082 396 9782

Email: al...@alexvdhorst.co.za

PO Box 40579

Moreleta Ridge

0044

 

[Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)]

Gave them a call. Afrishox (Ted) only do shocks.  Len does springs and has none for Disco 1 as there is not enough demand. He will sell me Dobinsons that he believes are made by the same company that makes OME. The price is R1k more than OME though. Nice guys Ted and Len but they don’t get enough old Land Rover customers and they therefore do not have anything in stock or on the drawing boards. This is typical SA and all firms only cater for new vehicle customers with lots of money.  Try getting a nice tow bar for a Disco 1. Custom jobs only and only if they feel like it.

 

My feeling is to go OEM and save money for diesel.

 

Regards

 

Alex van der Horst

 

 

From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Oberholster
Sent: 17 June 2008 10:09 AM
To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [LROC Techtorque] Re: Disco Springs

 

[Pieter Venter]

Would it be worth it to try and reset your current springs? (Very cheap option)

 

We tried local manufactured springs but they either sagged or broke.  Docvan recons it is the quality of the steel.

A good set of springs was reset (by mistake) making them longer. They have not given any problems. (VW Touareg)

Does the steel degrade in old coils ...or is it just a question of getting it back in shape?

 

 

Andre O

Please explain why you say OME is more supple than OEM?

I understand that it would allow more travel ...but the stronger spring rate should require bigger forces to move ...thus reduced traction.

 

 

---

From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant (SA)

Sent: 17 June 2008 11:14 AM

To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [LROC Techtorque] Re: Disco Springs

[Jakob Jordaan]

Careful now Andre,

 

Using the soft springs that you are using under load on BAD roads will heat soak any shock!  To make a generalised statement that they are not built for endurance is merely pie in the sky.  Maybe have a look at the OME factory as well.  I bet my bottom dollar their R&D budget runs circles around what Afrishox can afford.

 

After 7 years, 250 000 km and the type of off-roading that my car has done OME is still my first choice!

 

Groete

 

Jakob

082-808-1422

 

From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Oberholster

Sent: 17 June 2008 10:09

[Jakob Jordaan]

Pieter,

 

I am not sure what you mean with “stronger spring rate” as the springs that Andre is talking about are actually soft springs.  OME is more supple as it is a progressive spring – not equally “hard” across the spring.

 

Groete

 

Jakob

082-808-1422

<BR

[btu...@mmm.com]

I must agree with Jacob since I have bought a vehicle with OME fitted. I
will (hopefully) not use anything else from now on as I am really enjoying
the handling off road (loaded and unloaded) although when unloaded (when I
am traveling alone with no roof top tent or fridge) the vehicle is a bit
harder which I solve with tyre pressures. (wrong or right I dont know?)

Alex I would seriously also look at the Iron man kit. (Just the normal not
the foam cell) . Before I traded my Disco in I was about to buy the Iron
man kit but there was no stock (thank goodness as I would have wasted new
tyres and new suspension on the trade in) . I made this decision purely on
recommendations that I received.

.............................................................
Regards
Bruce Turner

[Andre Oberholster]

Pieter:- resetting of coils. First talk to Len at Mikem suspensions. He has interesting stories of this.   OEM vs OME: My Disco wallowed like a whale in bad seas when I bought it. It also sagged badly in the right front – and no, I’m not overweight OK Philip? J   The ‘soft’ OME’s are + 50, i.e. can take 50kg per coil more than the OEM coils. These are progressive rate coils, and provide a soft ride right throughout the load spectrum. Even empty, going over Pick-‘n-Pay’s speed bumps are a surprise in comfort every time. I also agree with your logics as to reduced traction. However, in practice my off-road capability was enhanced. The shocks and coils are about 60mm longer, but still have contact with the bump stops under full compression at the back. The front coils do not quite allow contact with the bump stops, but I don’t think the original coils did either.   What is interesting, is to watch an OME equipped vehicle going up a max incline, especially rock. The tyres seem to keep in contact with the surface much better, whereas OEM suspension allow a lot of bouncing around and loss of traction.   Roadholding: WITHOUT sway-bars, my OME Disco handles far better than the OEM suspension WITH sway bars!   Hope this helps, AO.

-----Original Message----- From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Pieter Venter

<BR

[Pieter Venter]

The softest OME is harder than OEM.

Will reduce traction under articulation.

Longer shocks allow for increased articulation.

Improved on-road handling.

(It is my opinion that OME is designed for loaded vehicles travelling with load for a considerable time)

 

Standard Disco I spring rates are 133lbs/inch front and 210lbs/inch rear.

The following is OME:

(DS=driver side PS=passenger side) Some care taken to level the vehicle while Ironman do not.

---

From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jakob Jordaan

Sent: 17 June 2008 13:51 PM

To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [LROC Techtorque] Re: Disco Springs

[Andre Oberholster]

My Magnetti Marelli 100A is still fine – but I have a recon Bosch 70 A unit in the tool-box.   The MM pushes 13.8 V, as measured, and corresponds with the Manual. The Bosch pushes 14.2 V. The dual battery just loves 14.2 V!     Regards, André O.

-----Original Message----- From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant

(SA) Sent: 17 June 2008 08:24:Andre To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com

[Andre Oberholster]

Just to prevent any crossed wires:   Dobinsons and OME don’t make their own coils, but outsource the manufacturing process. It is thus possible that they use the same manufacturer with different specs. Both are Australian companies. Therefore, if OME are cheaper, I would stick with their coils as they are proven. In my specific case, the original coils were a collapsed mess. OME raised the front by 76mm and the rear by 52mm.   Shocks: Ted from Afrishox explained to me a couple of minutes ago that he can supply ANY Landy with shocks. He uses the Bilstein as the core but can re-port and valve it to suit any application.   I stick with my previous statement of bottoming out under severe conditions. Both the front and back shocks (OME) bottomed out when hot, the front being actually lighter than with no load due to a load transfer to the back when fully laden. A visit to Afrishox will be an eye-opener as the mechanics of a twin-tube (OME), Mono-Tube (Bilstein), gas pressure, valving and porting is revealed. Why a shock bottoms out, and how to prevent it.   Guys, the Committee does a lot of effort to arrange these Technical events. See for yourself, and direct your questions directly to the experts! Regards, André O.

-----Original Message----- From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Alex van der Horst Professional Accountant

(SA) Sent: 17 June 2008 11:14:Andre To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com

Subject: [LROC Techtorque] Re: Disco Springs

Gave them a call. Afrishox (Ted) only do shocks.  Len does springs and has none for Disco 1 as there is not enough demand. He will sell me Dobinsons that he believes are made by the same company that makes OME. The price is R1k more than OME though. Nice guys Ted and Len but they don’t get enough old Land Rover customers and they therefore do not have anything in stock or on the drawing boards. This is typical SA and all firms only cater for new vehicle customers with lots of money.  Try getting a nice tow bar for a Disco 1. Custom jobs only and only if they feel like it.   My feeling is to go OEM and save money for diesel.   Regards   Alex van der Horst     From: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com [mailto:lroc-te...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Oberholster Sent: 17 June 2008 10:09 AM To: lroc-te...@googlegroups.com Subject: [LROC Techtorque] Re: Disco Springs     Alex – hope you read the feedback in last month’s newsletter after the Suspension Talk? Ag nee man, skaam jou!   My personal opinion is to speak to Afrishox. It could save you a lot of ‘hartseer’ as they guarantee satifaction as they do not supply off-the-shelf items.   My Disco has the full set of OME coils & shocks. I find the coils are really very good – medium in front, soft a back. Very stable vehicle, good loadability, much more supple than OEM. I think other manufacturers will have a hard time beating OME coils.   OME shocks – very good as well – for general purpose. But they are not built for endurance as they bottom out too easily once they have heat soaked on BAD roads. OK, I know what you are thinking – but no, the front shocks also bottomed out after about 2 hours of hard work.  Quite a disappointment. I will not ever again consider anything else available on the market. I am looking at replacing them with the Custom units from Afrishox as soon as the petrol price comes down……L   Once you have seen their design, test rig and shock dyno you will see what I am talking about! Regards, André O

[Philip Lochner]

I'm not a shock expert but I do know that most common shocks primarily "work" or dampens, ie positively resist movement in the DOWNWARDs direction (shock extending, also called "rebound"?) of the wheel.  Grab a shock and push it in, then try pull it out.  You will find that its MUCH easier to push it in (wheel moves up) than to pull it out (wheel comes down) - dont mistake the tendancy to come out by itself as "easier", thats just the compressed gas inside that pushes it out.  This allows the wheels to have practically no damping when hitting a bump and to move upwards with as little resistance as possible but coming down again as the spring pushes the wheels downwards (away from the chassis) but the shock dampens that movement.  Even with brand new (and cold) shocks you can therefore easily "bottom out" (axle hits bump stops), all you need is for the bump (or ditch) to be sufficiently high (deep) and speed to match.  My wife's new D2 reminded me of that every moring when the kids were late for school :-( 

 

So, with standard shocks, the ONLY way to prevent bottoming out is increased spring rates or increased travel (my favourite).

 

These "standard" shocks play litte or no role when it comes to steady state body roll, once in the turn and maintaining the turn (I'm not referring to the initial dynamic roll that occurs as you go into the turn).  Springs and anti-roll bars play the dominant role once in the turn.

 

Some higher performance shocks offer damping in both the upwards and the downwards direction (I'll call them bi-directional, not knowing their proper name).  The more damping you have in the upwards direction (shock compresses) the less comfortable the car will be since more of the bump is transferred to the chassis.  On really high end stuff you can even set the damping rates in both directions seperately.  Therefore, with bi-directional shocks, you CAN lessen the tendency to bottom out by increasing the damping rate for shock compression.

 

Kind regards

Philip Lochner

[Andre Oberholster]

“On really high end stuff you can even set the damping rates in both directions seperately.  Therefore, with bi-directional shocks, you CAN lessen the tendency to bottom out by increasing the damping rate for shock compression.”   You have summed it up well Philip. The Bilsteins are exactly that and can be ported and valved to suit. Nice thing is, there is a company in SA able to do that without breaking the bank toooooo much (R1350 per shock).  They have a vertical G-force rig and shock dyno that takes away all the guessing work.   However, they can valve it so that it does not cause a comfort compromise, but will prevent bump-stop contact in all except the worst cases. Stronger spring rates (my initial avenue) will make for a harder ride and off course bad wheel travel.   Eish, toys, toys…. Regards, André O