Td5 defender fuel pump

[Neale Penman]

Greetings all

Very quiet and  I hope all well.

My defender 2002 fuel pump is giving up. I have tried the quick fixes,
Purge cycle and fuel filter change and no luck.

So the pump needs to come out. I just don't have the will /energy /
strength /hands to drop the tank in my garage so the other option seems
to be cutting a hatch in the rear floor while the tank is still in
place. I would set a drill bit to about 5mm and just carefully work my
way around  the cutting template you can find on the web. It looks like
there is enough clearance to not drill through anything expensive...

Once I have access would it be fair to assume I can actually get the
pump out via the hole?
Any comments or insights? Good idea/bad idea?

Thanks

Neale

[Peter Levey]

Time to get the angle grinder out 😀😀

Peter

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Peter Levey

[Jakes Louw]

I'd just use a small grinder and a 1mm cutting disk. Less chance of a slip.......also, as far as I recall there are floor supports that need to be cut anyway. Using a drill bit will take days and many drill bits.........

[Jakes Louw]

snap

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[Joe Gordon]

Hi Neale

I found that the hole in the floor is definitely the easiest way. I removed my 90' TD5's fuel tank and regretted doing it that way for the few days it took to complete the job. The second one I did I cut the hole. 

I would also recommend sourcing the tool used to undo the pump retaining nut.

Good luck and 💪💪!

Cheers Joe

On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 12:41 PM Neale Penman <npe...@mweb.co.za> wrote:

[Bertus Bekker]

Can not speak for the Defender, but on Discovery one, it comes out through a (pre-cut) top hole.

On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 12:41 PM Neale Penman <npe...@mweb.co.za> wrote:

[Erin Bosch]

Neale, where are you based? If Jo'burg / East Rand (I'm in Edenvale), I'm happy to lend you a Dremel that might make the task of cutting a little easier than using a grinder.

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[Neale Penman]

Thank you for all the replies- great to see there's life on the list.

@Erin, thank you most kindly  but I do have a Dremel in stock. According
to Peter and Jakes it's an angle grinder kind of job but I think I'll
start with the slightly less destructive tools first :)

@Bertus, yes the Disco designers were a lot kinder and thoughtful.

@Joe- sounds like you have first hand experience. How thick is the floor
and did you put in a hatch or just cover with a plate? What pump did you
replace it with? The LR original from Dover is about 6k (which is
comparable to the UK prices) and the cheapy Allmakes is about 2.5k. Did
a bit of googling around but haven't yet found out who actually makes
the OEM.

I see the tool on the web, I'll get there once I've got access to the pump.

Unfortunately my entire rear packing system is going to have to come out
first. Such is life :)

Cheers

Neale

[Joe Gordon]

Hi Neale
The floor material is 2mm thick aluminum and the ribs/structure under the floor is 1mm thick formed aluminum. I made a cover using 2mm sheet and glued and screwed it over the hole. It carries no load with the drawer system in place. Using the instructions from the attached doc did it for me. I cut a round hole, the round Pump(peg) square hole scenario got the better of me.
I got a pump from LR directly but can't remember the price.
I have a tool if you don't come right. Compliments of Springbok Stores!
Give me a shout if you need help.
Joe

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[Joe Gordon]

https://www.landrovermonthly.co.uk/articles/how-to/replace-your-td5-in-tank-fuel-pump/

The attachment was too big.

On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 4:36 PM Joe Gordon <joeb...@gmail.com> wrote:

Forgot the attachment

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[Jesse Rowe]

To all reading this thread.

I am sorry but I do not believe this is the correct way to resolve this situation!

 

1.    Except for making structural changes to the load bin of your vehicle, which I frown upon!

2.    There are only so many structural load bearing spines keeping your defender upright. You have just removed 15% of them.

3.    The main concern is the removal of good story telling material for in the future by the campfire. To fully grasp the essence of what you are doing consider the fuel pump failure on the 28^th December in Garies. The nearest fuelpump you can find is at Land Rover Menlyn in Pretoria. Also to make it more appealing fill the vehicle up with 140L of fuel 30min prior to this happening. Only now is it starting to sound like a proper Land Rover holiday. And oh, try and use a Merecedes ML 350 Fuel pump in that tank to get you home. For good measure also make sure the starter and 3x 105Ah batteries fail on you, the same day. Now we are having fun.

 

So, to conclude, for character building experiences, DO NOT cut the back of the floor open to EASILY access the fuel pump.

 

Shame on YOU!

 

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[Neale Penman]

Wow Jesse, you have interesting holidays :)

Actually I have more than my fair share of campfire stories so I'm going to ignore your heartfelt advice :)

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[Neale Penman]

So, job done successfully and new pump working nice and quietly.

A few points I learned:

The resources on the web seem to be mostly for 90's. Unfortunately when
you cut the hatch in a 110 you're going to find a big fat East West
steel support beam in the way of the tank. On the 90 it seems you can
get away with trimming this but on a 110 it needs to come out, along
with the requisite tense moments while cutting. Make sure you leave
enough of each end so that you can replace the moulded beam with another
piece of steel afterwards. I used  a strong channel section which fitted
into the original beam and I double bolted it on either side to prevent
flex. No space to weld and you want to get access again anyway. Some
guys leave this out, I figure its there for a reason so I'm not taking
any chances.

Despite my misgivings an angle grinder was the way to go. I did knock up
a jig to prevent the depth of cut exceeding 4 mm. Made me feel happier :)

Once I had access to the pump I was greeted my a veritable
archaeological site with evidence of every type of sand I've ever
travelled in caking the top of the tank and pump in layers. From
Kalahari white to Namibian powder to Angolan beach to Richtersveld red
and some other interplanetary stuff in-between. Felt quite nostalgic
cleaning it out. I was a bit surprised because I religiously clean the
underside of the vehicle after every trip but the fuel pump indent for
the tank seems specifically designed to trap sand....

Getting the old pump out was a bit of a PITA. Why LR uses that lock ring
design is a mystery to me. A white plastic ring locates on the tank
itself with a normal RH thread and  two small tabs that sort of click
into two indents in the tank. Pump housing locates on top of this and
then a steel consol jar type ring tightens on the plastic ring. All
great 20 years ago when it was sparkly clean but the aforementioned sand
works its way between the two rings and locks them up beautifully. I
very carefully tapped the steel ring out and quickly realised that the
white ring was coming with it. Wound up soaking it in water as hot as I
dared to get it clean and encourage separation. No success so in the end
I got it as clean as I could and then refitted as a unit to the tank
until the white ring located properly. Then deep breath and sharp tap
and success, the rings separated. Whew.  Another clean and they were
ready to refit.

I don't care how careful you are, you are probably going to break the
locking tabs on the electrical connection. This actually isn't such a
biggy because there are enough loops and rings on the housing surface to
use cable ties to ensure a snug and secure fit.

The actual fuel pipe clips that everyone gets worried about turned out
to be the easiest to remove. And if you buy the complete unit (pump
housing, pump and fuellevel sender unit)then it comes with new clips anyway.

When getting the new pump (from LP4A in the end) Carlos helpfully warned
me that there is a little plastic filter in a brass housing in the the
inlet fuel pipe at the fuel filter housing. This filter can get gungy
and cause difficult starting or even cause the worn pump whine. First
time I'd heard about this but in the end I didn't need to get to it as
the new pump was working fine. Some lucky people just get to clean this
filter to achieve the same success as a pump replacement.

Thanks to Joe for his first-hand advice and all others for their
contributions.

Keep well

Neale

[Peter Levey]

Hi Neale,

Great job - any pictures?

Regards

Peter Levey

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[Chas Dean]

I’ve heard a Dremel comes in handy for this operation.

Maybe worth also checking condition of fuel line pipes & connections

including breather.

One can source the motor module ( Diesel Electric I think )

but not sure about the fuel level indicator mechanism ...