Wiring for automated blinds

[Ian Henderson]

Hi All, I am planning to fit 24v DC powered blinds to most windows but plan to wire with twin and earth just in case that changes. I am looking for a neat way to bring the cable to the window opening. I am thinking of a shallow back boxas close to thw window as possible so that it is hidden by the blind. 

Some of my windows are in the original property and already plastered, others are in new openings with lintels with a large foam section in the centre. I am assuming I can chase the wall but not sure how best to secure the back box as we are currently planning wet plaster rather than plasterboard. 

Thanks

[g...@camleyphotographic.com]

I have a KNX blind controller to provide centralised blind operation. This requires three core flex for each blind. You might want to use three core, not two core.

 

Are you planning to have architrave round your windows? I have fitted additional electrical boxes next to the architrave. The cables run underneath the architrave and out into the boxes.

 

In other cases I have a small sealed access panel in the ceiling to allow access to the connection between the cable from the window blinds to the long cables to the central controller. However, our windows have integrated blinds so they have cables that come out of the windows frames on the wall side. When fully fitted there are no cables on display.

 

Be aware that there are set rules you must follow when running 240V cabling, and round a window frame is likely to be outside of the prescribed areas. This is likely to limit where you can put your cabling.

 

George

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[Rob.b]

+1 vote on the three core and earth cable. I have that installed to all of my windows and have subsequently used a mixture of 230v somfy sonesse motors, 24 volt dc motors and 12v dc motors to drive all my blinds/curtains. It definitely provides the most flexible solution should you wish to change to roman blinds, roller blinds or curtains. 

Where the construction elements are different around my house I also have a mixture of slim metal patress boxes (plastered up to as you are describing) and recessed plasterboard patress boxes.  These all sit above the window on the outer face and were installed by a registered electrician. I'm making an assumption that these are there to create the safe wiring zones as described on this page https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/electrical-safe-zones.htm. 

Depending on the type of blind or curtain being fitted the cable is either attached at this plate (using a flex outlet pate) or a hole is drilled through to the window recess (see pic below where you can just make out the 24v cable exiting next to the blind bracket). Where roman blinds are fitted the switch and box are hidden. 

[Ian Henderson]

Thanks Rob. Our current plan is 24v Somfy RTS via Tahoma but the installer is not 100% that this will work. I would like to run cable in  future proof way. I had thought of Twin and Earth just for power (either 24 or 240v) but your suggestion for control cables keeps options open. My electrician seems happy with the location as if there is a wall box we can go directly vertical. 

[Rob_in]

On Thursday, 28 September 2023 at 21:58:27 UTC+2 ian.hen...@gmail.com wrote:

Our current plan is 24v Somfy RTS via Tahoma ... I would like to run cable in  future proof way. I had thought of Twin and Earth just for power (either 24 or 240v)

Just an FYI... we have 240v Somfy motors on external shutters which need 4 core cable: 1 x ground, 1 x neutral, 1 x switched live (for drive up), 1 x switched live (for drive down).

Robin