Wi-Fi Smart Sockets and lamps intergration?

[Robbie]

I came across these low cost Wi-Fi Smart Lamps & Sockets, and it struck me that this are a much lower cost alternative for extending Loxone control into unwired and less critical areas (such as our garden room) than Loxone Nano Air's and Smart Socket Air's.

Has any one integrated such devices under Loxone control?

At present, I have no experience of controlling anything over Wi-Fi from the Miniserver. Currently everything is either hardwired (inc DMX lighting) or Loxone Air, so any advice in how to set up such devices would be greatly appreciated.

Robbie

[Robbie]

And a few of these could be very useful, and a low cost way of controlling extractor fans and similar.

[Robbie]

So has anyone successfully integrated any Wi-Fi controlled sockets or lamps under Loxone control? (I'm considering some of these for various table lamps around the house, and lighting in our garden room.)

Can anyone give help on what I would need to do in Config to control any such devices over IP/Wi-Fi? (As I've yet to use Loxone to IP control anything.) Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

[vampiris]

Yes it is possible to control all of those devices with your Miniserver through your wifi network, if you are a hacker and you can understand all those programming stuffs. If you are not, then Duncan wiIl see these post and will tell you how to control a Belkin Wemo Switch. If he dosen't, then i will try to explain it with the few English words i know. Also in the old forum of Loxone, no longer exists, a member had uploaded a tutorial of how to control Milight wifi rgb led lamps (i believe that the brand name of the lamps has change today). If you want i can upload his tutorial.

[Robbie]

Thank you for your replay Vampiris. Hopefully Duncan will pop in with some advice.

The Belkin Wemo Switch is two thirds the cost of a Loxone Smart Socket Air, and it's additional temp/power monitoring aren't needed most of the time, so it could be a good alternative.

If anyone has managed to program the Miniserver for any of the even lower cost Wi-Fi switches, I would also be very interested to know how.

On Monday, May 22, 2017 at 11:13:53 PM UTC+1, vampiris wrote:

[Duncan]

i havnt used the belkin wemo for a few years - i reverted back to air sockets due to requiring a good mesh for some other air stuff

digging through old files i found the attached virtual output that i used once i had configured the wemo for my network and used dhcp reservation to make sure it always got the same ip address

[Robbie]

Thanks for the help Duncan.

Unfortunately, I don't even know what dhcp reservation is, so maybe this is all a bit beyond my capabilities.

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 8:26:22 PM UTC+1, Duncan wrote:

[vampiris]

It means that you must give your Belkin Wemo Switch or every other wifi smart socket a static IP, because if there is a blackout the next time the power will come on, the smart socket will take a new IP from your router. You don't want that, because in the configuration software you will set commands for on and off for a specific IP, if the IP is changed then simple the system will not work. This is easy and is done through your router User Intrerface. Belkin Wemo is working great with the Loxone Miniserver and if you decide that solution i can tell you how to set up the system with a step by step guide. The disadvantage is that you don't have feedback from Belkin to Loxone. So if you use your mobile phone to control the socket, then the Miniserver dosen't know that is on or off.

[Harry Phelps]

Robbie,

I'm not that brilliant at the 'coding' side of things but if you have a Wemo switch you should be able to copy (literally copy from his example and paste into yours config) everything from what Duncan has posted and just change the IP address to that of your Wemo switch, if you post the details of your router people may be able to help you reserve an IP address in the settings, maybe you could use the WeMo app to do this as well but I'm not sure about that. You may be able to copy and paste or drag his whole virtual output into your config as well but I couldn't.

So taking Duncans example, after creating a Virtual Output in your Config called WeMo, you could double click on his .config file to open it in Loxone Config, go to Duncans Virtual Outputs and click on WeMo (VQ). In the Properties pane of this (left hand window) you will see looking from top to bottom Common, User Interface, Address - this is where you enter the IP address of your WeMo into your config. Then click on Duncans WeMo On and copy everything (you'll have to do one line at a time) from his properties into the properties of the Virtual WeMo On you have made in your config. Do the same for Off. You should then be able to use your new Virtual Output to control your WeMo plug.

There may be some other steps or an easier way to do it but I think that would work.

[Duncan]

so just to add to the fun, im going to try some modified wifi plugs called itead s20
these come options for uk, euro, us and chinese, and there is loads of info on the interweb about a firmware swap which gives loads of direct functionality to be controlled by http or udp commands from loxone

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Itead-Sonoff-s20-Smart-Home-Charging-Adapter-S20-WIFI-Remote-Control-Power-Socket-EU-US/32799072911.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.pbs5oR

ive bought 4 for $45 so nothing lost if it doesnt work, but at less than £10 each then its got lots of potential for things like table lamps

looking through the code you can read the relay status back via http as well so feedback may be available

[Robbie]

Thanks guys, I will definitely try this at some point, and possibly post back here for support if I need it.

Hi Duncan,

I would be very interested to know how this goes, so please keep us updated.

Generally feedback isn't essential for things like table lamps (and my previous home automation experience was with X10, that didn't have any feedback from modules) as I wouldn't roll out the dedicated smart socket app to the family.

However feedback could be useful if use was made of the local power button on the smart socket.

[Harry Phelps]

I'll be interested as well Duncan. I had a quick look around and saw some videos by Blair Thompson showing how to reflash those sockets and then use generic HTTP or UDP, is this where you got your inspiration?

[Duncan]

yes i was searching for a product like belkin that didnt need a local or cloud server to work - im not keen on a smart home needing internet access for basic functions. this model is cheap, and the reflashing can be done from a pc or arduino - so a great solution where you dont want or need the expensive air sockets.

i was about to buy some more air sockets but ill try this instead. everythings ordered from aliexpress, just waiting now before playing...

[Robbie]

Hi Duncan,

Have you had a chance to "play" with the Aliexpress Wi-Fi sockets yet? Any success?

On Thursday, May 25, 2017 at 12:05:55 PM UTC+1, Duncan wrote:

[Duncan]

the sockets and programmer have arrived in a few days via aliexpress, but im waiting for the headers to solder onto the socket boards - hopefully ill get a chance to try things before the end of the week

[Duncan]

ok so everything arrived and after 10 minutes i killed my first s20 in a puff of smoke!

usb to serial adapters have 5v and 3.3v flavours - the s20 needs 3.3v. my usb adapter has a 5v/3.3v jumper, but after some white smoke i worked out it still puts out 5v when set to 3.3v - oops

so i hooked up 2 x 1.5v AA cells to the s20 with a common 0v to the usb/serial adapter set it to 3.3v, and my other 3 s20 sockets were flashed in around 15 mins for all 3 from start to finish with the esp-easy firmware from windows.

once flashed you need to:
log in using a wireless device eg phone to the s20's own wifi access point and open a browser - you will get the s20 config page
ssid is esp_0 and password is configesp
pick your own home wifi and give it the password - it then gets a dhcp address from your router (make a note of the IP)
i then used a desktop pc to continue the s20 configuration using a full screen browser with the new IP
now change ip address etc, device name etc if you wish - a fixed IP is necessary if you are sending commands from loxone

at this point you can send http commands from loxone to turn the device on/of - simple as that. eg;
http://IP/control?cmd=gpio,12,1 turns the relay and blue led on
http://IP/control?cmd=gpio,12,0 turns the relay off and blue led off

at this point the front button doesnt do anything
to make it work, you have to log into the s20 web page and configure 'devices' and 'rules' and create a rule that links the front button as a device to changing the state of gpio14, the relay/blue led

to get a rules page to appear, you have to go to 'tools', select 'advanced' and scroll down to find 'rules' that you can tick - save then the top menu has a rules tab/page as well.

in reality, all my remote sockets are behind furniture, and the physical button isnt much use - i just integrate the device into a lighting scene with a lamp plugged in, or in my case 5 remote sockets on a loxone timer for all my christmas lights, all turned off by the 'goodnight' button.

assuming you dont kill any like i did, it costs around $44 for 4 wifi controlled sockets  plus a startup cost of around £10 for the programmer, pins, cables etc.

[Robbie]

Thank you for the info Duncan.

It all looks a bit complex, and I fear that there would be a steep learning curve for me as I've never flashed firmware before - although I am an (analogue) electronics engineer by trade. What kit did you need to do this (your £10 start up cost)?

Having the front button working does appeal to me for local control. Especially if it could be configured to be a button in Loxone (ie, options for double & triple click).

[Duncan]

yep you need around £10 for the 4-pin headers, a single 4 wire cable and the usb programmer.

flashing is just a case of opening a command prompt and following the instructions, where as i think the most off-putting thing for most people will be opening up a mains thing and soldering on the 4-pin header.

once set up it takes around 5 minutes for each socket.

the button can be programmed to send a signal to a loxone virtual udp input really easily - personally ive got these behind furniture driving table lamps, so i just have the on and off virtual http outputs in loxconfig and add them to a lighting scene.

its not going to save you a fortune but i always like a challenge!  a difference of £10 each vs £60 each adds up

[g mc]

Hi Duncan,

I'm trying to setup Loxone to work with Sonoff,  I've ESPEasy installed and working with sending http from the brower.  

But I'm having trouble getting Loxone to send the command.  It will sometimes send but is very slow.

I wonder if you could post a screenshot of your virtual output?

Thanks

Graeme

[Duncan]

i use a single udp virtual output with the on/off combined, and repeats the instructions whils its on - that way if the device is power cycled during an on period it will turn back on automatically

make sure your devices have a fixed ip address that isnt duplicated by a dhcp server as well.

[g mc]

H Duncan,

Thanks for the quick response, that was really helpful.  I can now switch the Sonoff from Loxone. :-)  

But I do fine it to be pretty unresponsive,  It's switches on most of the time pretty quick,  but the off command  doesn't work most of the time, and when it does work it take between 10-20 seconds to work. Maybe I'll need to repeat the off command and few times to make sure it receives it.

How to you find your work? Does it work reliably?

I've always seemed to have issues controlling stuff over IP from the miniserver.  I have a Samsung TV, Onkyo Amp, Sony projector, HTPC & arduino gate controller and they can be hit or miss.

I know there was an slow performance over IP issue with early Loxone configs, but that was supposed to be fixed.

[Duncan]

all my stuff responds almost instantly.

however, i use commercial grade network stuff - multiple ubiquiti wiif access points, smart gigabit switches with cat7 cabling, everything fixed ip addresses and separate subnets and SSIDs for automation so maybe its the networking stuff rather than loxone at fault

also i have almost everything wired except phones/tablets/laptops and the wifi sockets so my wifi traffic is not a high % of max load

[g mc]

Hi Duncan,

That's good to know that they can be reliable.

I also use Ubiquiti AP's with Cat6 and Cisco rack mount switch. Although it may be the router which is only a Netgear running dd-wrt,

I like you idea of running separates subnets and SSID's, I'll have to look at doing that. 

Its funny that the Sonoff will respond instantly when switched with a url in the browser.

I'll get a good look at it over the weekend.

Thanks for your help.

Graeme

[Duncan]

i think having loxone repeat the udp message when the light is on probably solves the problem anyway

[Simon Still]

On Tuesday, 27 June 2017 20:09:35 UTC+1, Duncan wrote:

yep you need around £10 for the 4-pin headers, a single 4 wire cable and the usb programmer.

So, looking on eBay

a couple of £ for a big box of headers. easy.

Having a bit of trouble being sure about the other stuff - there are a load of usb flashers which seem aimed at specific tasks.  How do I identify which will work (and find a cable)? 

[Duncan]

something like this - it even has the jumper leads

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FT232RL-FTDI-USB-3-3V-5-5V-to-TTL-Serial-Adapter-Module-for-Arduino-Mini-Po-M0N7/282974831474?epid=26011069259&hash=item41e29d4372:g:IwcAAOSwiMRbAgTz

test it to make sure the 3.3v setting puts out 3.3v, not 5v else you kill the boards you are flashing

duncan

[Simon Still]

Finally got around to playing with my Sonoff S20 socket yesterday.   Didn't check the output voltage of the usb-serial board but looks like i got away with it.

I've stuck at an odd stage though - not sure what to try next.  I've successfully flashed the socket to Espeasy v1.47 

once flashed you need to:

log in using a wireless device eg phone to the s20's own wifi access point and open a browser - you will get the s20 config page

ssid is esp_0 and password is configesp

pick your own home wifi and give it the password - it then gets a dhcp address from your router (make a note of the IP)

i then used a desktop pc to continue the s20 configuration using a full screen browser with the new IP

now change ip address etc, device name etc if you wish - a fixed IP is necessary if you are sending commands from loxone

I'm failing at getting it to pick up my own wifi network.  I've tried setting SSID/PW in the Config tab and from interface page that lists avaialble networks and asks for a password but it's not connecting to my network - after a reboot i'm still seeing the esp_0 network.  

Any ideas on what i've missed? 

[Duncan]

what wifi access points or router are you using? there can be some incompatability issues eg logitech 2.4ghz stuff doesnt work with certain firmware versions of ubiquiti access points

[Simon Still]

On Saturday, 13 July 2019 17:06:06 UTC+1, Duncan wrote:

what wifi access points or router are you using? there can be some incompatability issues eg logitech 2.4ghz stuff doesnt work with certain firmware versions of ubiquiti access points

Access points are Cisco WAP121 

 

[vampiris]

When you say ESPEasy v1.47, do you mean ESPEeasy R147? I bought some wemos d1 mini and every time i tried to flash them with the ESPEasy R(120 or 147 etc), i had the same issue with you. Try to flash the Sonoff socket with the newest software of the ESPEasy, the ESPEasy Mega: https://github.com/letscontrolit/ESPEasy/releases and i believe that you will be able to connect them to your wifi network.

 

[Jedi Tek'Unum]

I just put Sonoff-Tasmota on a Pow R2 and almost couldn't believe how smooth it went. Granted I had to solder a few header pins on the board and use a USB-to-Serial adapter to program initially but supposedly its over-the-air for future upgrades. They've got good instructions for many Sonoff and other brands. Worth a look.

[Simon Still]

On Monday, 15 July 2019 16:58:04 UTC+1, Jedi Tek'Unum wrote:

I just put Sonoff-Tasmota on a Pow R2 and almost couldn't believe how smooth it went. Granted I had to solder a few header pins on the board and use a USB-to-Serial adapter to program initially but supposedly its over-the-air for future upgrades. They've got good instructions for many Sonoff and other brands. Worth a look.

I wonder if it is my access points.  Flashed to Tasmota, configured Wifi. Saw the sonoff appear in my device list but when I try to connect to it it disappears from the list and the connection fails. 

 

[Simon Still]

On Tuesday, 16 July 2019 14:00:32 UTC+1, Simon Still wrote:

I wonder if it is my access points.  Flashed to Tasmota, configured Wifi. Saw the sonoff appear in my device list but when I try to connect to it it disappears from the list and the connection fails. 

Ok - so now it's staying visible but cant connect to from a browser. Odd.  

 

[Simon Still]

Apologies for the live updates.  maybe it wasn't getting enough power via the usb socket and flasher.  Connected to the mains and now seems to be working

[Simon Still]

Tasmota Firmware is simple to configure as there is a template for the S20 switch, then just send a command 

http://192.168.x.x/cm?user=admin&password=yourpw&cmnd=Power%20On

The template means the button and led work without any intervention.  

however, is there any way to get the button to send a command to Loxone?  Duncan seemed to be suggesting this is possible in ESPEasy...

[Simon Still]

Or failing that, what's the best way to get Loxone to send an 'off' command to the switch when the lights in the room are switched off.

The RQ output will send a pulse on double click and that will work on the reset or 'off' input of a switch if it's been switched on in Loxone but not if it's been over-ridden locally with the front button.

I'm struggling to remember all my Loxone tricks... 

[Jedi Tek'Unum]

I'm new to Tasmota and Sonoff so don't know about the S20 but given the overall quality of Tasmota I've observed so far I'd be surprised if it can't send an event.

As for the backup approach, I had a similar issue with keeping LED indicators in sync. I started out with a single Virtual Output thinking I could send different messages for On and Off. Nice idea but due to Loxone's poor implementation it would not send the Off command upon reboot; only after a transition to On and then back to Off would it send. My current kludge is two Virtual Outputs for the same signal with a NOT block in front of one of them; both configured to send appropriate message for On.

[Duncan]

yes the button can send a command to loxone with espeasy :

im using the mega (v2) of espeasy, use a rule in espeasy to send a udp command on button press:

on switch#on do
if [switch#on]=1
SendToUDP 192.168.2.200,1002,sw 1
else
SendToUDP 192.168.2.200,1002,sw 0
endif
endon

[Jedi Tek'Unum]

Unfortunately it looks like Tasmota cannot send out events via HTTP. See https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/issues/708

Tasmota is apparently very MQTT focused and as we know, being an open standard (and widely used I might add), Loxone couldn't possibly support it. There appears to be a couple of Loxone/MQTT gateways on github.

I am so tired of this B.S. of not supporting popular methods of integrating. That applies to Tasmota as well - WTF, so many things can take HTTP commands directly.

[Jedi Tek'Unum]

Pardon me! I spoke far too soon. YES, this can be done.

See the "WebSend" command combined with a "Rule".

[Simon Still]

On Tuesday, 16 July 2019 18:03:43 UTC+1, Duncan wrote:

yes the button can send a command to loxone with espeasy :

im using the mega (v2) of espeasy, use a rule in espeasy to send a udp command on button press:

Any recommendations of which Mega version to use? the only releases seem to be the nightlys.  

I've tried a couple and still can't get it to connect to my network - with the latest i got as far as it telling me  the IP address it was on (on my network) but when I rebooted it it was neither appearing on my network or as it's own espeasy network.

[Andras]

+1 on this one.

Flashed Tasmota, running smoothly without issues since weeks ago. I chose to integrate though a MQTT --> nodered --> Loxone path as I wanted to get sensor (power usage) data to Influx as well.

[DavidL]

I had issues with these on Ubiquiti access points. I even disabled the option to force devices to 5Ghz, but they still wouldn't connect to the 2.4Ghz properly.

Never got it working, so gave up for the time being.

[Seb]

Hi, I can confirm the Shelley sockets in the UK work without any modification, at a cost of ~£20 each they are a good alternative to loxone which are too expensive imo.

What I did:

1) purchased the Shelly UK socket, plugged it in

2) it emits its own wifi, log onto that and goto 192.168.33.1 and setup the config to join your wifi

3) If you have DHCP in your wifi then make the address it gives the socket static (eg 192.168.1.230)

4) In Loxon config create a Virtual Output

5) For the Virtual Output set the Address to the assigned IP address with http:// on the front (eg http://192.168.1.230)

6) Add a Virtual Output Command to the Virtual Output

7) In the Virtual Output Command set the Command for On to /relay/0?turn=on

8) In the Virtual Output Command set the Command for Off to /relay/0?turn=off
9) leave all other setting alone. Headers and Bodys should be empty and Method should be GET

I used the gen1 API at https://shelly-api-docs.shelly.cloud/gen1/#shelly-plug-plugs-relay-0 

[g...@camleyphotographic.com]

Have you checked the standby power consumption on the Shelly devices?

 

I am sure that they are still using an ESP8266 chip and likely that they will be drawing a couple of Watts 24x7.

 

The loxone ones are dearer, but not that bad when you consider the cost of the electricity, reliability, ease of implementation and functionality.

 

George

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[Techdoctor]

Here is a link to a tutorial I wrote, a year or so ago, on connecting Loxone to Shelly

[Will Bishop]

Tutorial above refers to Gen 1 Shelly sockets.
Gen 2 now being shipped
Command for toggle is now http://192.168.xx.xx/rpc/Switch.Toggle?id=0

Command for power metering is now http://192.168.xx.xx/rpc/shelly.getstatus