Andromeda Astro

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Prince Aboubakar

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Aug 5, 2024, 12:10:57 PM8/5/24
to lopparecharz
Youcan follow along and process the exact same data I did (download here), or you can try these techniques on your version of the Andromeda Galaxy taken using your own equipment. If you choose to download my data and process it, you can skip straight to the Photoshop portion of this tutorial.

This tutorial uses DeepSkyStacker and Adobe Photoshop. If you are new to this process, you may find the following DeepSkyStacker tutorial useful. The images used in this tutorial were captured using a Canon EOS 60Da DSLR camera with the RAW image type selected.


This image was captured on a clear night under Bortle Scale Class 4 skies. A William Optics Zenithstar 73 telescope was used like a telephoto lens on my Canon DSLR camera. The telescope tracked the apparent movement of the night sky thanks to Sky-Watcher HEQ5 equatorial telescope mount.


You can watch the complete journey leading up to this image in the following video: Photographing the Andromeda Galaxy. The images were collected while we camped under the stars on a beautiful August night.


Roughly a month after capturing the original version of the Andromeda Galaxy shared on this page, I photographed this amazing object again from even darker skies. This time around, I used an ultra-wide-field refractor telescope, the William Optics RedCat 51.


The goal of this image processing tutorial is not for you to follow my process step-by-step to achieve the same result, but to get a better understanding of the tools and techniques I use to edit my astrophotography images. No matter what level of experience you have, I am confident that you will find a number of helpful tricks you can use while processing your own image of the Andromeda Galaxy.


After collecting your images of the Andromeda galaxy with your camera, you need to organize all of the files on your computer so that you can easily find them. I like to sort all of the picture files and calibration frames into separate folders.


You may also want to include the telescope, camera, and filter that were used in the folder name, as these details may be hard to remember years later. Here is a look at the folder structure for my data on the Andromeda Galaxy.


You may find it useful to go through your light frames in a RAW image preview software such as Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Bridge. Delete any frames that have airplanes, or satellites passing through them, or that are not the full exposure length. If your tracking accuracy and autoguiding were successful, you should not have to delete any frames due to poor tracking.


With the files organized and easy to find, we can now import the image data into DeepSkyStacker for calibration and integration. This will create an intermediate file that can then be processed extensively in Adobe Photoshop.


DeepSkyStacker will allow us to calibrate our data using support frames, and improve the signal-to-noise ratio of the final image through integration. The software will automatically align and register the images on top of one another, to reduce noise and increase the signal (light) in the image.


To start, select all of your light frames (the actual pictures) by clicking the Open picture files button on the top left of the screen. This is where you will choose all of the images on the Andromeda Galaxy you would like to stack. If you have organized your images and folders neatly, and have filtered out any images that should not be in there, this process will be very easy.


You will then need to repeat the process, for your calibration frames. Click on the buttons for dark frames, flat frames, and bias frames in the top left-hand menu of DeepSkyStacker. I recommend using at least 15 support frames to properly calibrate the image for further processing.


If everything looks in order, you can go ahead and click check all, followed by Register checked pictures. From here, we will need to make sure that a few key settings are used so that DeepSkyStacker can properly integrate and calibrate the image data.


Use the Register Settings shown in the image below as a reference. Because we have used all of the recommended calibration frames, and have pre-screened the images, these settings should work well. Feel free to try using the exact settings I have used to stack the image, including the sigma-clipping combination method to stack the light frames.


As for the Stacking Parameters (which can be accessed by clicking the button in the Register Settings box), I suggest leaving the default settings in place under the light, dark, flat, and bias tabs. You can select the Enable 2x Drizzle option if you want, but be warned that your computer will kick into overdrive, and the output file will be massive. (learn more about the benefits of using drizzle).


Now, click the OK button and review the final Stacking Steps of your image, and the estimated total exposure time. The total integrated exposure time for my image of the Andromeda Galaxy is 2 hours, and 14 minutes.


The resulting image of the Andromeda Galaxy shown below has a typical look to broadband, color images shot using my DSLR camera. This is our intermediate file, that is now calibrated to reduce much of the noise and artifacts present in a single exposure.


The integrated data now has a much better signal-to-noise ratio, which will make the processing and manipulation techniques in Adobe Photoshop much more effective. The final processed image will look much different than the version you see at this stage.


Adobe Photoshop is a powerful tool for processing astrophotography images. It is a robust graphics software designed primarily for photography and design, but many amateur (and professional) astrophotographers use Photoshop for astrophotography image processing.


The first thing we need to do is open the file that DeepSkyStacker created using all of our pictures and calibration data. By default, DeepSkyStacker will output the intermediate file as a 32-bit .TIF, in the destination you have selected in the settings.


Alternatively, you can save the stacked .TIF file by clicking Save picture to file, at which point it will convert the image to 16-bit mode. We need to convert the 32-bit image to 16-bit to fully process the file in Adobe Photoshop anyway.


For this object, it is important that we do not over-stretch the core of the Andromeda Galaxy. It is the brightest area of the object, and details surrounding it could easily be lost. To avoid this, you can either blend in shorter exposure images of the core using a layer mask, or isolate this area (again, using a mask) so that you do not stretch this data as far as the surrounding details.


Now, navigate over to the Select and Mask tool (Select > Select and Mask) to soften the edges around the selection. This is an important step because we need to create a smooth transition between the areas at the edges of the mask.


Once you are happy with the amount of feathering around the mask (using the Feather slider in the Select and Mask dialog box), you can click OK, and the selection mask will activate. Now that we have defined the area we want to leave untouched, we need to click Select > Inverse to apply our curves adjustment to.


Perform a modest curves stretch as you did in the last step, and notice that the areas we have masked off (the nucleus of the Andromeda Galaxy) remain unchanged. You may want to make several iterations of this process, making small curves stretches each time.


If you were too aggressive in your selective curve stretch, you will create an unnatural looking transition between the core of the galaxy and the mid-tone areas. To avoid this, find a balance between the amount of feathering at the edges of your mask and the amount of curve adjustments you make.


At this stage, we will balance the color of the image by setting the black point, and the white balance. Start by creating a Threshold Adjustment Layer (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Threshold). This creates an exaggerated view of the image showcasing the brightest and darkest areas of the image.


Using the slider in the properties tab of the threshold adjustment layer, choose an area of the sky that contains no stars, and is not touching the galaxy. Use the Color Sample Tool (found in the main toolbar) to plot 2 points on the image where there is nothing but dark sky.


These plotted points will now give us a reading of the pixel information and the current balance of colors in the image. To see this information, turn off (or delete) the threshold adjustment layer, and open the Info window (Window > Info).


At this stage, we just need to balance the colors out a bit. If your image is like mine, it is very brown and ugly at the moment. We can balance the colors by adjusting each color channel independently and matching the values of our plotted points.


With the Info window open, click on Image > Adjustments > Levels. From the levels window, select each color channel from the drop-down menu and adjust the sliders. For my first levels adjustment, I have set the black point to read 20, 20, 20 across the RGB channels. These values will increase shortly, as we will pull the data forward even more.


This is a good time to save the image. For all further edits, it is wise to create new layers on top of the original. This way, you can save the file with each adjustment made on its own layer. Label each layer with the adjustment you have made, and then you can save the complete .PSD file with the ability to go back and edit at any stage later.


A powerful way to make a targeted curves adjustment in Adobe Photoshop is to hold down CTRL on your keyboard and plot a temporary reference point. With the Curves window open, hold down CTRL and click an area of the background sky. Now, holding down CTRL once more, click an area of the Andromeda Galaxy that you would like to brighten (the mid-tones at the edges of the galaxy),


You may want to increase the saturation of the colors in your image (watch my video tutorial on boosting colors). I find the best way to accomplish this is to create a Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer. We need to define specific areas of the image to apply this effect to, and the Color Range Tool is a convenient option.

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