Super tiny hex keys?
Simon Howes
Am trying to fix the second extruder for the stratasys. The encoder has most likely failed. We need to get to the encoder.
However, this motor is a very expensive piece of swiss showcasing and seems to be held together with some *tiny* hexhead grubscrews.
Does anyone have a set of teensy hex keys or drivers?
We're talking 0.2 - 0.5mm size here! Watchmaking hex keys?
Can bring the hex to the hax sometime?
Hexcanhaxhas? :)
Ian Blythe
I have an Allen Key for M3 grubscrews which might be OK for you.
It is about 1.2 mm is the smallest one I have.
I am popping in on Friday to pick up my MDF sheets if they have not
been used and will be going to BluePrint place to get some laser
cutting done.
Will you be in the hackspace on Friday? around midday as this is the
super super saver time on the trains into London.
Is the second extruder stopping the use of the stratasys? I'd like to
try and print a few things so where is the list to apply for the use
of the statasys? So I may be a bit longer in the space before going
the length of Bow Green Rd.
With my best regards to the Hackspace members
Ian
Simon Howes
Hi,
The second extruder is for support material.
as for the hex keys. The grub screw itself is only about 1mm across! Its tiny. Damned swiss showing off their mechanical prowess :p
So we need something like a 0.4mm allen key.
I assume this stuff falls under the remit of watchmakers tools.
Expensive, and will only ever be used once.
I feel a fuffing coming on :)
Paddy Duncan
Is it definitely hex? They don’t normally go smaller than .7mm. Surely if they were showing off they would use something a bit more esoteric.
Anyway, I have .7 and .9 if you want to try them. Also, I’ll be perusing the tool shops in Hatton Garden maybe later and I’ll have a nose for such things.
It would be good to know exactly what is required, if that is possible.
Paddy
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2425/4983 - Release Date: 05/07/12
Simon Howes
The motor is in my bag now, so I'll bring it back to the hax.
Its kinda hard to see - but it looks like a hex. Even with a magnifying glass I'm not making it out too well as it's steel black so I'm not getting too many photons back. :p but when I rotate it the facets seems to be glinting, suggesting a hex.
Lets try your keys.
This over-engineered jive is why the stratasys was so expensive. The machine is huge, there really isnt need for a teensy precision engineered swiss reduction planetary gearbox with custom anodized extender rings and integral encoder. It must have been like xmas to the engineer who made it. Anything.you.can.has!
Billy
Have you though of going to a watch repair place?
There's a couple near me i can ask. They'll at least be able to
identify the correct tools, even if they don't have them to hand.
On May 8, 2:15 pm, Simon Howes <simonhowes...@googlemail.com> wrote:
> The motor is in my bag now, so I'll bring it back to the hax.
> Its kinda hard to see - but it looks like a hex. Even with a magnifying
> glass I'm not making it out too well as it's steel black so I'm not getting
> too many photons back. :p but when I rotate it the facets seems to be
> glinting, suggesting a hex.
>
> Lets try your keys.
> This over-engineered jive is why the stratasys was so expensive. The
> machine is huge, there really isnt need for a teensy precision engineered
> swiss reduction planetary gearbox with custom anodized extender rings and
> integral encoder. It must have been like xmas to the engineer who made it.
> Anything.you.can.has!
being hand engineered, and them having to maintain a workshop that
could build to that precision. And when you consider the 0.5mm
extruder nozzles, then it's unsurprising.
There's a nice niche after-market for spare parts. I saw one person
buying a broken Stratasys just to get the spares to repair their
original machine.
It's also why Stratasys changed their design. Now the newer machines
are more plug'n'play, with a more modular structure. And guess what
the prices for spares are like...
Worse than the Mini...
> > ** ** ** ** ** ** **
> > Is it definitely hex? They don’t normally go smaller than .7mm. Surely if
> > Anyway, I have .7 and .9 if you want to try them. Also, I’ll be perusing
> > nose for such things.****
>
> > It would be good to know exactly what is required, if that is possible. **
> > **
>
> > Paddy****
>
> > ** **
> > ------------------------------
>
> > *From:* **london-h...@googlegroups.com** [mailto:**
> > london-h...@googlegroups.com**] *On Behalf Of *Simon Howes
> > *Sent:* 08 May 2012 13:32
> > *To:* **london-h...@googlegroups.com**
> > *Subject:* Re: [london-hack-space] Re: Super tiny hex keys?****
>
> > ** **
>
> > Hi,****
> > The second extruder is for support material.
> > as for the hex keys. The grub screw itself is only about 1mm across! Its
> > So we need something like a 0.4mm allen key.
> > I assume this stuff falls under the remit of watchmakers tools.
>
> > I feel a fuffing coming on :)****
>
> > On May 8, 2012 12:42 PM, "Ian Blythe" <ipbly...@gmail.com> wrote:****
> > Hi Simon,
>
> > I have an Allen Key for M3 grubscrews which might be OK for you.
> > It is about 1.2 mm is the smallest one I have.
>
> > I am popping in on Friday to pick up my MDF sheets if they have not
> > been used and will be going to BluePrint place to get some laser
> > cutting done.
>
> > Will you be in the hackspace on Friday? around midday as this is the
> > Is the second extruder stopping the use of the stratasys? I'd like to
> > try and print a few things so where is the list to apply for the use
> > of the statasys? So I may be a bit longer in the space before going
> > With my best regards to the Hackspace members
> > ------------------------------
> > Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2425/4983 - Release Date: 05/07/12*
> > ***
Simon Howes
Took a lock at this under my usb microscope. Its actually a roll pin. One on either side of the gearbox, with the shaft in between.That's not coming out. Hmm.
The back where the encoder is seems to have a faceplate thats seated much like the back of a watch. Theres a gap where you can insert a lever where the cables go through, problem is as you apply pressure you risk slicing the cables as you're using them for leverage. Anyone know any watchmaking tricks to pop out recessed plates? Underneath this is the troublesome encoder which is blighting out support material extrusion efforts.
The other hope is a circlip on the motor shaft where it exits the motor.
This little motor doesnt want to be taken apart...
Billy
Yes, lay a small bar over the cables, then rest the lever on that.
Also, if you can, then check what's underneath the cables. Sharp edges
are unlikely there, as it's a cable mount, but better to be sure, as
we've only got one of these things.
Could you document this/photgraph what you're doing? There's a few
other people with Stratasys machines who'd be interested, and it'll
make our future maintenance a little easier.
Paddy Duncan
To: london-h...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [london-hack-space] Re: Super tiny hex keys?
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2425/4985 - Release Date: 05/08/12
Simon Howes
Not a bad idea paddy!
Hmm. Need some sort of kinky implement though...
Maybe a lockpick?
Paddy Duncan
To: london-h...@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [london-hack-space] Re: Super tiny hex keys?
tomwj
This thread http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/removing-roll-pin-182653/ has a lot of ideas for removing a roll pin from a blind hole.
Tom
cepm...@yahoo.co.uk
not easily cut into by the tap. Also the pin is likely to be spread by
whatever is screwed into the middle thus making it much harder to remove!
Drilling out might be an option but the above caveats apply to this too.
Phil
--
" et cognoscetis veritatem et veritas liberabit vos. "
Dirk-Willem van Gulik
On 9 mei 2012, at 04:09, cepm...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
> A problem with this approach is that roll pins are usually hardened and so not easily cut into by the tap. Also the pin is likely to be spread by whatever is screwed into the middle thus making it much harder to remove!
>
> Drilling out might be an option but the above caveats apply to this too.
Then try to pull the whole shebang out. If this fails - it has the advantage that gradually you get some damage on the top of the roll pin - and the heat makes it ultimately more realistic to drill/tap.
Dw
Filthy hipster scum
Abby, can you send be all the details of the motor, gear ratio, measurements of the rig, voltage etc. gonna try source another.
Simon Howes
Amma bring the whole shebang back in with me tonite bro
In a big bag of dissapoint
tom
>> In a big bag of dissapoint