Bordeaux Wine Guide: Graves 1959 Classification

[Matthias R WHT]

The 1855 classifications of the Médoc, Sauternes and Barsac ignored
what are undoubtedly very important regions of Bordeaux, notably St
Emilion, Pomerol and Graves. This latter exclusion is perhaps somewhat
surprising, as the wines of Graves were hardly unknown at the time, as
evinced by the inclusion of Haut-Brion at the first growth level in
the Médoc classification. Determined to protect and promote the
identity of the region, the Graves Syndicat were eager to put forward
their own classification, although they were not able to achieve this
until almost a century had passed.

Although most resources refer to an initial classification having been
drawn up in 1953 and subsequently ratified in 1959, it appears that
this might be an erroneous view. The 1953 classification was official,
following its ratification by ministerial decree in 1958 (source: the
Syndicat des Crus Classés de Graves). The classification was then
renewed the following year, with the addition of five new wines (the
whites Couhins, Latour-Martillac and Malartic-Lagravière, and the reds
Fieuzal and Pape-Clément). It is this 1959 classification that has
been carried through to modern day, with no significant changes.

The issue of Haut-Brion sometimes causes some confusion as to its
ranking in Bordeaux classifications. The chateau was ranked along with
those of the Médoc in 1855, as a first growth, although obviously this
applies only to its red wine - there is no such thing as a white
Médoc, after all. The estate was also included in the Graves
classification in 1953, although again only for its red wine - the
white wine is produced in such tiny quantities that, like the
proprietors of Fieuzal, the Dillon family at Haut-Brion did not ask
for its inclusion. Several sources have since reported that the white
wine was then retrospectively incorporated into the classification in
1960, such as the British author George Rainbird writing in his 1983
Illustrated Guide to Wine, and it is also included in the system by
Tom Stevenson, writing in his excellent Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia,
although today the Dillon family deny that this is the case. And so my
account of the classified estates below reflect this; Haut-Brion is
included with the reds, but not the whites.


Graves, 1959: Classified - White
Chateau Bouscaut
Chateau Carbonnieux
Domaine de Chevalier
Chateau Couhins
Chateau Couhins-Lurton
Chateau Latour-Martillac
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière
Chateau Laville-Haut-Brion
Chateau Olivier


Graves, 1959: Classified - Red
Chateau Bouscaut
Chateau Carbonnieux
Domaine de Chevalier
Chateau de Fieuzal
Chateau Haut-Bailly
Chateau Haut-Brion
Chateau Latour-Martillac
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière
Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion
Chateau Olivier
Chateau Pape-Clément
Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte
Chateau La Tour-Haut-Brion


The classification itself is a simple one-tier system, with no ranking
within the categories, and the properties are listed alphabetically.
It is today grossly deficient, in that it is not only outdated but
refers to only a tiny handful of Graves properties. As such it is
really only of historical interest. A revision of the classification,
which is looking increasingly likely, would answer this criticism not
only by providing an update and opening it up to good estates in
Pessac-Léognan currently not ranked, such as Brown, Les Carmes Haut-
Brion and Larrivet-Haut-Brion, but by also broadening its scope to
take in the estates of Graves as a whole, rather than just those of
the Pessac-Léognan enclave. Many properties throughout the region
currently not included in the classification would be sure to benefit,
and I look forward to seeing this happening.


- Wine Doctor.