Bordeaux 2009 suffering from hail storms

[Matthias R WHT]

Early in 2008 Paul Pontallier spoke the following words: "We are so
fortunate with global warming. Look at the number of great vintages we
have had in the last 12 or 13 years. It is absolutely amazing."

Since he said this Bordeaux has suffered from a series of devastating
hail storms. The first one hit the 2008 crop in the south of the
Médoc, around Cantenac, causing losses at Du Tertre, Cantenac-Brown
and Prieuré-Lichine, among others. The second series took place this
week, unusually early in the growing season: two storms, severely
damaging extensive areas in the Bordeaux region. Normally these kind
of storms occur in September, just before or around harvest time.

Of course it is hard to say whether these fierce storms are the result
of global warming, but nevertheless I wonder if the Bordelais are
still so enthusiastic about Modern Weather as a whole.

The first storm covered the largest area, from the Charentes in the
north down to the Graves in the south. It took place Monday afternoon.
The Charentes was hit the worst, with many, many hectares of vineyards
lost. From there it raged south along the right bank border, it passed
Blaye, and blew over the southern Médoc & Graves, and the Libournais
more to the east. With this first storm the southern Médoc (Margaux)
was hit for the second year in row.

The second storm was more local yet more damaging: it took place
around 4:00 in the morning from Tuesday to Wednesday and more or less
ran from the Entre-Deux-Mers region towards Saint-Emilion. Normally
the Carteaux côte is enough of a barrier to split a storm in two, but
this one couldn't be stopped and cut deep into the Saint-Emilion
vineyards.

The losses are big. For example Château Canon lost about 80% of its
crop, some others even more. The damage is so serious that it probably
will affect the 2010 crop as well. The plants have been bombarded with
huge hail stones, the young twigs and leaves have been ripped off, and
- worse - the wood of many vines has been severely injured.

Of vital importance now is that these damaged vines are treated and
pruned, enabling them to continue (or restart) their vegetative cycle.
But that is difficult: the soil is extremely wet - there has also been
lots of rain these days. One can enter the wet clay by foot (whereby
the boot will grow with every step) but the tractors can't get in (yet
another reason to bring back the horses!). To treat against mildew the
richer properties might hire a helicopter.

The drama behind the plant-kill is financial. Most producers aren't
insured (any more) because of the big expenses, and a year (or two?)
without wine can mean that a producer loses his market.

One of the wines that I work with is the white Vieille France 2007
(Graves), and they have already said there will be no white 2009.
That's sad. Besides the financial loss for the owners, it means that
we will have to miss a lovely wine this year.

More details (with numbers etc.) can be found in a Wine Spectator
article by Diana Macle.



- David Bolomey. Bordoverview. August 20, 2009.