Austrian Riesling & Grüner Veltliner
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Matthias R WHT
Oct 23, 2009, 7:42:35 AM10/23/09
to Liquid Assets
The Wachau region, west of Vienna, is reminiscent of the Rheingau or
the Mosel in Germany – steep, primary rock hillside vineyards sculpted
from the banks of the river Danube. It should come as no surprise
therefore that some of the world’s most perfect expressions of Grüner
Veltliner and Riesling are created here.
The wines are dry, crisp and mineral, with obvious cool-climate
character, yet at the same time they remain powerful and richly
textured. Wines of elegance and refinement, the best age
magnificently, just getting into their stride at ten years of age and
lasting comfortably for two decades or more.
Still relatively unknown, Grüner Veltliner is a grape variety that is
capable of producing wines of world class quality. Like Chardonnay, it
produces good food wines, wines that have good body, structure and
weight. Unlike Chardonnay however, Grüner Veltliner has a racy
minerality, producing taut and vibrant wines that are more akin
structurally to dry Riesling. To sum up, wines made from Grüner
Veltliner combine perfume and substance and have excellent ageing
potential.
We have selected four of the very best producers: F.X. Pichler,
Emmerich Knoll, Nikolaihof and Bründlmayer. They are the Raveneau,
Leflaive, J.J. Prum of the Wachau and their wines are truly world-
class.
----
2008 Grüner Veltliner Loibnerberg Smaragd, F.X. Pichler
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2009 / 2013 / 2017.
Tasting Note
Attractive lychee and floral aromas, this has a stony mineral nature
even on the nose. On the palate there is almost a tropical character,
with melon characters coming through, as well as a touch of cool mint
and gentle sweet florality. Taut minerality balances the ripeness in
this wine, providing the backbone to give this the ability to keep for
several years
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £126.00 each (Inbond)
----
2008 Grüner Veltliner "M" Smaragd, F.X. Pichler
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2010 / 2015 / 2020.
Tasting Note
Savoury notes of smoke and pepper on the nose, as well as citrus and
white stone fruit characters. On the palate, this is mouthfilling and
ripe, with a touch of honeyed richness and fragrant lime, balanced by
a chalky minerality. The low-key nature of this wine belies its depth
and concentration, but has the potential to age for five years and
beyond.
----
2008 Riesling Loibner Steinertal Smaragd, F.X.Pichler
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2010 / 2016 / 2022.
Tasting Note
This has an enticingly smoky, peach nose, with some white flower and
lime zest characters. On the palate, the structure provided by the
minerality and citrus-acidity is immediately evident, providing a
framework for juicy ripe peach and apricot fruit characters. There is
an attractive touch of peppery spice on the finish. Delicious.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £138.00 each (Inbond)
----
2008 Riesling Kellerberg Smaragd, F.X.Pichler
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2011 / 2017 / 2025.
Tasting Note
Compared to the other Pichler wines, this seems very restrained,
lacking perhaps the exuberance of the others. Minerality is to the
fore, with crushed stone and iodine balancing lime-leaf and white
stone fruit characters. There is a dart of citrus zest acidity, coming
through on the finish, giving this wine a pure and refreshing nature.
This is a wine that will keep and evolve for many years.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £192.00 each (Inbond)
----
2008 Riesling Ried Schütt Smaragd, Weingut Emmerich Knoll
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2012 / 2018 / 2025.
Tasting Note
This has a very pretty nose of white flowers and ripe citrus fruit. On
the nose this is luscious and attractive, with notes of conference
pear, peach, almond and a dart of ripe preserved lemon. This is
concentrated, but balanced, with structural chalky minerality and a
lime zest acidity that carries through to the very long finish.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £162.00 each (Inbond)
----
2008 Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben, Weingut Bründlmayer
Dry, White, Still.Austria. Improving 2009 / 2012 / 2015.
Tasting Note
Taken from old vines, this is a rich and concentrated wine, with an
almost exotic feel. There are peach, mango and lifted spice characters
on the palate, which is vibrant and very long, with a touch of
minerality. This is benchmark Grüner from one of the best producers
and given time will develop an extra dimension.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £99.00 each (Inbond)
----
2005 Riesling Steiner Hund Reserve, Weingut Nikolaihof
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2012 / 2018 / 2025.
Tasting Note
Released late as always, the 2004 vintage sold out in record time
after receiving a large number of points from a certain American wine
critic. The 2005 is sure to wow with a aromas of iris, white musk,
lime and herbs. The palate is both plump and racy with a huge salty
attack that will need to time to integrate. A mouthfilling and special
wine with a long life ahead of it.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £153.00 each (Inbond)
- Lay & Wheeler.
the Mosel in Germany – steep, primary rock hillside vineyards sculpted
from the banks of the river Danube. It should come as no surprise
therefore that some of the world’s most perfect expressions of Grüner
Veltliner and Riesling are created here.
The wines are dry, crisp and mineral, with obvious cool-climate
character, yet at the same time they remain powerful and richly
textured. Wines of elegance and refinement, the best age
magnificently, just getting into their stride at ten years of age and
lasting comfortably for two decades or more.
Still relatively unknown, Grüner Veltliner is a grape variety that is
capable of producing wines of world class quality. Like Chardonnay, it
produces good food wines, wines that have good body, structure and
weight. Unlike Chardonnay however, Grüner Veltliner has a racy
minerality, producing taut and vibrant wines that are more akin
structurally to dry Riesling. To sum up, wines made from Grüner
Veltliner combine perfume and substance and have excellent ageing
potential.
We have selected four of the very best producers: F.X. Pichler,
Emmerich Knoll, Nikolaihof and Bründlmayer. They are the Raveneau,
Leflaive, J.J. Prum of the Wachau and their wines are truly world-
class.
----
2008 Grüner Veltliner Loibnerberg Smaragd, F.X. Pichler
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2009 / 2013 / 2017.
Tasting Note
Attractive lychee and floral aromas, this has a stony mineral nature
even on the nose. On the palate there is almost a tropical character,
with melon characters coming through, as well as a touch of cool mint
and gentle sweet florality. Taut minerality balances the ripeness in
this wine, providing the backbone to give this the ability to keep for
several years
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £126.00 each (Inbond)
----
2008 Grüner Veltliner "M" Smaragd, F.X. Pichler
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2010 / 2015 / 2020.
Tasting Note
Savoury notes of smoke and pepper on the nose, as well as citrus and
white stone fruit characters. On the palate, this is mouthfilling and
ripe, with a touch of honeyed richness and fragrant lime, balanced by
a chalky minerality. The low-key nature of this wine belies its depth
and concentration, but has the potential to age for five years and
beyond.
----
2008 Riesling Loibner Steinertal Smaragd, F.X.Pichler
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2010 / 2016 / 2022.
Tasting Note
This has an enticingly smoky, peach nose, with some white flower and
lime zest characters. On the palate, the structure provided by the
minerality and citrus-acidity is immediately evident, providing a
framework for juicy ripe peach and apricot fruit characters. There is
an attractive touch of peppery spice on the finish. Delicious.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £138.00 each (Inbond)
----
2008 Riesling Kellerberg Smaragd, F.X.Pichler
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2011 / 2017 / 2025.
Tasting Note
Compared to the other Pichler wines, this seems very restrained,
lacking perhaps the exuberance of the others. Minerality is to the
fore, with crushed stone and iodine balancing lime-leaf and white
stone fruit characters. There is a dart of citrus zest acidity, coming
through on the finish, giving this wine a pure and refreshing nature.
This is a wine that will keep and evolve for many years.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £192.00 each (Inbond)
----
2008 Riesling Ried Schütt Smaragd, Weingut Emmerich Knoll
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2012 / 2018 / 2025.
Tasting Note
This has a very pretty nose of white flowers and ripe citrus fruit. On
the nose this is luscious and attractive, with notes of conference
pear, peach, almond and a dart of ripe preserved lemon. This is
concentrated, but balanced, with structural chalky minerality and a
lime zest acidity that carries through to the very long finish.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £162.00 each (Inbond)
----
2008 Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben, Weingut Bründlmayer
Dry, White, Still.Austria. Improving 2009 / 2012 / 2015.
Tasting Note
Taken from old vines, this is a rich and concentrated wine, with an
almost exotic feel. There are peach, mango and lifted spice characters
on the palate, which is vibrant and very long, with a touch of
minerality. This is benchmark Grüner from one of the best producers
and given time will develop an extra dimension.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £99.00 each (Inbond)
----
2005 Riesling Steiner Hund Reserve, Weingut Nikolaihof
Dry, White, Still. Austria. Improving 2012 / 2018 / 2025.
Tasting Note
Released late as always, the 2004 vintage sold out in record time
after receiving a large number of points from a certain American wine
critic. The 2005 is sure to wow with a aromas of iris, white musk,
lime and herbs. The palate is both plump and racy with a huge salty
attack that will need to time to integrate. A mouthfilling and special
wine with a long life ahead of it.
Case (6 Bottles - 75cl)
Buy 1 Case for £153.00 each (Inbond)
- Lay & Wheeler.
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