I'm having a strange problem with my T1910CS laptop in that it is
having difficulty powering on. Symptoms:
1) When the AC Adapter is used, the green DC-IN light is steady,
which means its okay, but
+) If the battery is in, or
+) I try to start it (see 2),
then the DC-IN light will flash, which means the computer is
not receiving enough electricty.
2) When I try to turn the computer on it starts for generally the
briefest amount of time and then goes right back off. After
this the DC-IN light blinks for sure (although if the battery
is in it goes off soon after it recognizes the battery).
The weird thing about this, however, is that if I keep trying
to start the computer over-and-over again in rapid sucession
for a rather lengthy period of time (like 10-15 minutes) in
that I almost instantly hit the power button each time it fails
to power up, it works. In fact, each time I do the rapid
re-start power-up method, the computer seems to stay on a bit
longer each time. Eventually it passes some threshold and
"catches" and remains on.
Are these symptoms anyone recognizes? I do not want to keep hitting
"on/off" for 15 minutes to use the laptop!
Thank you,
Elizabeth
T1910 Toshiba Laptop
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Commander Spiral Pyjama Pseudo-Rhinocerous Feline Thingamajig Bill Marcum
(the First)
Ozy and Millie Name Generator http://heifong.phase.org/omname.php
> It could be that one of the two internal batteries has gone bad.
Hi Bill,
Thank you for your reply.
I am aware of one internal battery which I suppose is the CMOS
battery. It is housed in a convenient location for replacement (right
under the keyboard near the hard disk drive) - it is a green battery
that looks like a AA battery and says NI-MH and 4K3 on it.
But I am unaware of any other internal battery. Do you know where
it may be located and what it may look like?
Sincerely,
Elizabeth
> But I am unaware of any other internal battery. Do you know where
> it may be located and what it may look like?
It is a silver, disc battery enclosed in a plastic encasing that
presses two leads up tight against the battery. This battery is
located under the top circuit board near the back of the computer. It
connects to the top circuit board via a wire that crosses underneath
the board toward the front of the unit and onto the top with a red and
black cable plugging into a two-lead jumper labeled PJ2.
Markings on the battery proper:
Toshiba, Made in Japan
VG2430 Lithium Battery VG2430 Rechargeable
Red/Black wires are hooked correctly to the battery. It is probably
the RTC battery.
14 P000184480 NI-MH BATTERY SUB BATTERY P71007001031
15 P000180060 V-LI BATTERY RTC BATTERY P71008001016
Part 14 would be what I found earlier and this is 15 (it has a sticker
on it that says "LI").
Model Manufacturer: Toshiba
Model Number: 2150CDS [this is another laptop model -ed]
Name: 3 volt Lithium Rechargeable CMOS battery
Description: Rechargeable coin cell with wire and connector.
Anyway, I tried re-starting the computer without this battery but
it is still behaving the same way. On one other computer, a desktop,
removing the dead CMOS battery allowed the machine to boot up as where
with the dead CMOS battery it didn't come on at all.
Is it possible that the failure of the laptop to boot-up is a
result of having no electricity from one of the two internal batteries
and that by removing the connection I am not making much of a
difference in that the connection was dead anyway? And that by
replacing one or both of the batteries the machine may begin working?
Thank you,
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Commander Spiral Pyjama Pseudo-Rhinocerous Feline Thingamajig Bill Marcum
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Ozy and Millie Name Generator http://heifong.phase.org/omname.php
> Batteries can fail in different ways. I replaced both the batteries
> in my Toshiba when I had to reset the date every time I rebooted.
Hi Bill,
Thank you for your input.
I replaced the RTC battery with a battery from that battery-only
place. Its part number is ML2430-WR.
The results were the same after replacing the battery and turning
the computer on, however. But during this time I did not have the CMOS
battery plugged in, so I plugged it in and the machine behaved
erratically for a few plug-in/out cycles but then managed to power on
and stay on. I did not have the LCD screen plugged in during that
trial, however, so just how well into the boot cycle it proceeded is a
mystery, as I did try after plugging the screen in but the results
were as before.
My next step is to replace the CMOS battery although it may be
sometime before I am able to purchase a new one. The theory here is
that because the old CMOS battery was not plugged in for sometime and
then plugged in, the computer sensed it had some electricity and so
booted-up. But after a little while plugged in, the computer drained
the CMOS' battery and so it behaved as before.
Elizabeth
While having nothing to add to other people's suggestions, I
don't think this theory is a valid one; CMOS battery is
really only used to power the real time clock (to keep the
time on the computer when no other power source is
available). It's not normally used for anything else, let
alone power a full computer. In particular, starting up a
hard drive requires currents that a CMOS battery would be
unable to deliver.
/Y
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> On Wed, Sep 03, 2003 at 05:35:51PM -0500, Elizabeth Barham
> wrote:
> > The theory here is that because the old CMOS battery was
> > not plugged in for sometime and then plugged in, the
> > computer sensed it had some electricity and so booted-up.
> > But after a little while plugged in, the computer drained
> > the CMOS' battery and so it behaved as before.
>
> While having nothing to add to other people's suggestions, I don't
> think this theory is a valid one; CMOS battery is really only used
> to power the real time clock (to keep the time on the computer when
> no other power source is available). It's not normally used for
> anything else, let alone power a full computer. In particular,
> starting up a hard drive requires currents that a CMOS battery would
> be unable to deliver.
There are two internal batteries:
*) CMOS/NiMH battery which saves state (it can go into a
resume mode when the operator closes the unit [folds the
screen up] and when she re-opens it. During this
intermission, the state of the machine is as it was
before).
*) RTC/Li Battery. This is the tricky one to reach and I
recently obtained a new one.
The symptoms of my particular machine have been rather peculiar. As it
is, when I hit "power on" the machine turns out for a very brief
period of time and then goes down. If I keep hitting power-on for
about ten to fifteen minutes it will start. This seems to me that
something is charging up a little bit each time it tries to start and
after so many times there is enough power somewhere to allow the
system to come up.
When it first powers-up, it most likely does a simply hardware
check. One of these checks may be a determination if the CMOS battery
has much power in it. If it does not then it turns off and causes the
green DC-IN light to flash.
So, the evidence suggesting it may be the CMOS/NiMH green battery are:
1) It appears as if something is charging up between quick
power-on/power-off cycles (the 10-15 minute "keep pressing
power" thing). Perhaps its a capacitor? If so its soldered
to the board so I'd probably trash the machine. OTOH, a
rechargeable battery does this sort of thing as its main
job plus its easily replaceable.
2) After disconnecting the CMOS/NiMH battery for an elongated
time and noticing no change in behavior, upon reconnecting
it the machine behaved differently and seemed to power up
as it should but I could not verify this as the screen was
not hooked up.
I didn't mean to imply that the CMOS/NiMH battery powers the whole
thing but rather because the battery has so little storage ability
and/or has so little power that the machine refuses (as in a bad
self-test) to power-on fully.
So, sometime in the future I may purchase a new CMOS battery and see
how well it works.
Thanks for your contribution,
Elizabeth
http://www.batterysavings.com/site/1/Product/7/245/994914/B-453/1/a.aspx
From that page:
Chemistry NiMH
Original Amp 0.6
Volts 1.2
AmpHours 0.8
Description Cylindrical battery with wires and two pin connector
To the best of my understanding, this is the same battery mentioned
previously:
14 P000184480 NI-MH BATTERY SUB BATTERY P71007001031
as seen at http://www.geocities.com/philip3270/1910cs.txt