Linotype University - Denmark, IA

[madisonpete]

I attended the six day Linotype University course which ran from Sep.
24 - 30. It was informative and terrific. There were 5 or 6 other
students Been looking for an operation like the Linotype University for
more than 15 years. Someplace I can place my volumes of literature,
parts books and quite possibly my self made gauges and tools
specialized for maintaining these monster machines.

Every time I placed the word Linotype into (around year 2000) Google I
came up with the same lame stuff, time and time again, until last
December 2005 when this "Linotype University IV" popped up on the
terminal.

Pictures are worth more than thousands of words: check
http://gochipmunk.com/html/linoiv.html

And if interested in typesetting machines etc. . . try this link -
http://gochipmunk.com/html/contents.html

I was thinking more along the lines of an empty barn with the
stanchions still intact, hay dust drifting down from the beams, cobwebs
hanging all over plus a few bats and cats.

This place ain't NO COW BARN . Facilities 4 years new.
wis jer

[Bob Roswell]

Jerry, Larry, or any of the good mechanics -- Are any of you will to
come to Baltimore to help me get my Model 31 running. Motor is back in
order, but I still have a bunch of issues.

[peteKrunch — Database data "kilos" to typesetting]

 

Hi bob,

Larry mentioned to me about your motor and I figured you would be up and setting type by now.

 

How about listing what issues you see with the machine?

 

• broken parts? or what.

 

Have you cast the first slug yet? or ???

 

Do you know where the machine came from?  Storage or sitting outside?

 

Click me some pictures of measure control, assembler, drive clutch and if any

lead trimmings from casting slugs are on the floor. Sometimes you can tell quite a bit just looking at them.

Any nicks in the side knives?  Does distribution work properly?

 

One thing for sure - the vise automatic stop should work properly so you don't have front squirts and somebody gets burned. Especially someone visiting the museum. Could lead to some heavy duty litigation.

==============================

 

Will send you a .pdf file later. . . Collage I put together. It's 12 x 16 and you might like to take the *.pdf file to Staples Office Supply store. They have 2ft. wide format color print service, then mount it on foam board with 3mm laminate over the print. Fairly reasonable price.

 

I made it the above size after looking at frames in a frame store called Hobby Lobby.  Think they're a national chain.

Can't begin to make a frame for the price they charge.

 

Been doing SGO (stained glass overlay) since I got back from Denmark. People, restaurants etc. using more of this than having regular stained glass created by artisans. The other thing.. SGO can adhere to the present glass in sash or if SGO is mounted on Lucite and attached to the window sash, leaving the normal glass in place, people can change the overlays out and insert new items into the sash. (seasons of the year or whatever)

 

later,

jer

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[Bob Roswell]

The machine was inside in-situ at a printing company.  It is physically in good shape.   A buddy of mine had the one broken piece welded.

 

At this point the motor is working.  I have made a blank slug, but the mechanism that moves the mats horizontally after the mats are raised from the assembly area does not seem to be engaged.

The spacing bar does not drop space bands.

 

I spend a long time trying to remove the 4 magazines.  Everything was stuck with mats all over the place from the move.  I have not tried to put them back and actually have mats come down into the assembly area.

 

 

 

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[peteKrunch — Database data "kilos" to typesetting]

Hi bob,

Attached is a Collage with Comments – 12x16   *.pdf file. . . Staples Office Stores have wide format

print service. (some of them) I had one created. Mounted on foam backing, 3mm laminate applies.

Cost $11.00. You can add a frame from Hobby Lobby (chain stores) for reasonable price.

 

Got involved with Collages with Statements:

http://gochipmunk.com/html/lino2.html = Denmark, IA

 

http://gochipmunk.com/html/lino3.html  = Daves Falls - Wausaukee, WI

these are 8x10 . . . for downloading if you choose.

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Will let you know costs of travel, service etc. next week.

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Sounds like 3,000 plus pickup.... and sorting is in order!

one broken piece welded

What piece had to be welded?

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So here's something that should help sort out the 4 fonts...

 

Use some pine boards. A few screws. Voila!

Makeup you own measurements from matrixes. Plain boards to 1/2" thick. Won't be so clumsy.

2 ft long should be enough. I don't have a CAD program. Used Corel Draw.

Don't know how many you'll need. Just keep makin' them.

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Another idea if you have more time:

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Ref: Catalog #40 - Blue Streak Linotypes

I got the feeling that there are some matrixes behind the assembler face plate. Page 140, #D-2987.

And no doubt mats fell into page:54, #J-4806, Escapement Guide.

Let's hope when you cranked the mags. up to remove them that no mats got ground up in the

levers in the guide.

The front Assb. Ent plate will have to be removed and checked etc.

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You didn't say however you made a blank line.   I have made a blank slug

I take it that you have a quadder?

Is it manual inboard or a Hydraquadder? (like machines at Lino Univ)

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mechanism that moves the mats horizontally after the mats are raised. . . .

Check to see if (page: 175, #D-87 Bushing & D-88 Release Pin) are there. Maybe they fell out during the move.

Otherwise it's something else.

 

I think you were down in the other building on Thursday, when it was discovered

that the starting/stopping pawl fell off the center Mod 31 machine and that caused the

line delivery to disconnect (page 182, # D-3397, Delivery lever link). Maybe that's all that's wrong.

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 spacing bar does not drop space bands . . .

This also might mean that some mats are behind the face plate and got stuck

in/around the space band lever. The space band cam is on the far right side of keyboard cams.

(Page 158, #H-874, Spaceband key lever might need attention. Maybe the spaceband box pawls are

rusty? How many spacebands did you get with the machine? The bands are fed toward the pawls

with gravity doing the trick. Not enough bands would allow the bands to slip off of the tops of the

lift pawls, missing a band.

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Everything was stuck with mats all over the place from the move.

If you intend to move the empty mag. frames up/down be most careful. Much damage could occur to

Escapement Guide if mats are stuck in there.

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long time trying to remove the 4 magazines

When you removed all 4 magazines from machine. Did you release some of the balancing spring tension for magazines up/down

 in the back of the machine?

(Page 98, #I-4955 & 4958) These are adjusted with a round bar, #I-5043. Did you get this bar with your machine?  I can't remember

the diameter of the rod. Maybe Larry at Lino. U. knows. If it's 1/2" you can get a chunk of rod, about 1 foot long. That'll do it.

 

If the mags. have a medium compliment of mats for each font you would have to release some of the spring pressure

as you took all mags. off of machine.

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Machine leveling . . .

johnny bar                level

 

Couple of items you might need. . . . the johnny bar (left) and 4 to 6" level.

• If on concrete floor, great! If basement under floor check for movement of floor

in basement while someone gently rocks machine. See floor moving? Get some

support jack poles from Sears Robuck for support.

 

Leveling is a misnomer when it deals with Linotypes.

1. Front to back is one check.
2. Left to right is the second. The machine should "run" uphill approx. 1/8 bubble so as to
   allow mats to fall "backward" into the channel entrance. I know it sounds stupid, but it works.
3. Page 194 - 199. Left end of vise frame, left locking handle. There's a flat surface. Front/back bubble is between level lines.
4. Page 349 - 350. G-14, Distributor back screw shaft. Place level on round shaft. Left/right bubble should be 1/8 past
   the level line in glass on level. That means the machine "runs uphill." Mats fall backward into channel entrance.
5. Helps to prevent mats from falling into the next channel to the left.
6. Get some 150 lb. card stock cut into 4" x 7" pieces. Might need a 6" pile of them.
7. Do the front/back level bit first. Make sure machine sits solid. NO ROCKING.
8. Next the left/right (facing back of machine) with level on round shaft. Do the 1/8 bubble on the line.
9. Also, if you add 1 card to the left rear foot (looking at back of machine) you must add 1 card to the
   front left foot. This will maintain the front/back level of the machine. Keep checking the front/back to
   make sure. Adjust as necessary with cards. When complete with cards, make sure the machine doesn't
   rock in any direction. If so, you might have to a card someplace.
   
   

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   This is a 2 person operation. One to push/stand on the pry bar and other to slip cards under the machine foot.
   
10. REMEMBER!!!!!!!!!!! When messing with that johnny bar – lift ONLY under the frame of machine
    where the feet are attached. If you have to remove the back step from machine to access the left rear foot – DO IT.
11. DON'T, I REPEAT, DON'T use the quadder hydraulic sump pump as a pry/lift point. That will snap the mounting bracket
    RIGHT NOW. Your quadder might never work again. I've seen it happen. Especially when professional movers
    are moving these machines. To them it's a chunk of cast iron. Anything goes.
12. The best thing to do is inform professional movers, before they start, as to where they can and CANNOT use
    a johnny bar to pry.
13. If you have only a regular round johnny bar with a big hook lever on the end, it's best to get a 6" square of 1/8"
    steel plate and place under the johnny bar. That way you won't mess up the wood or tile flooring.
14. Get a long enough pry bar.It will be easier for the person pushing/standing onthe pry. The shorter, the harder to lift.
    Some of these monsters weigh in at over a ton. Five or six foot is a good length.

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We had 50+ machines at Cuneo Press, Milwaukee, and 40 of them had daily problems.

Many many problems each day. Operators didn't care. They got to "jaw jack" and drink

coffee while machinists got things going again.

 

The operators got sooo upset with us. They claimed they couldn't operate the keyboard properly. Would

effect their production. I solved that problem. We took some blocks of wood and placed them under the right

side feet of their chairs to match the 1/8" uphill of the machine. About a month later they decided to remove the

blocks of wood. Production increased, Call board lights and bells decreased. And a lot less "jaw jackin'."

wis jer

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----- Original Message -----

From: Bob Roswell

To: linotype-...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 9:45 PM

Subject: RE: Linotype University - Denmark, IA

[Bob Roswell]

Making progress….

 

Took the guides that help the mats slide down out and found the arm that triggers the spaceband release.  I’m not sure the arm will stay in place.

 

I also got the horizontal delivery mechanism working.  Unfortunately, if I put mats in the assembler, they all fall down before they go into the elevator.  Hoping Jerry will come to Baltimore to bail me out!

 

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From: linotype-...@googlegroups.com [mailto:linotype-...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of peteKrunch — Database data "kilos" to typesetting

Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 1:24 PM
To: linotype-...@googlegroups.com

[peteKrunch — Database data "kilos" to typesetting]

hi Bob,

Numbers I have assembled for a Baltimore Bail Out:

Cost estimate of Hours, travel, motels & food are as follows.

 

1. Using 5 days for repair work @ 6 hrs/day = 30 hrs. @ $100.00/hr = $3,000.00
2. Four days travel time + 5 days motel time = 9 days + food/fuel = $1,500.00

These numbers should help in your decision making process.

Let me know what days would be best for you.

 

Hope you are planning to assist and shadow me, which will

make this a learning process for you as well as productive for your museum.

later,

jer

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