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Josephina Blincoe
As time progresses, more and more players join the IL-2 community have difficulties setting up head-tracking. One of the more common issues I come across is the installation and configuration of a head-tracking clip/hat and head-tracking software.
To help these new players, I took it upon myself to write a clear and elaborate guide that will help anyone setup a new head-tracking system with the use of Opentrack. I will keep the topics separated by chapter to keep a clear distinction between the different elements.
The camera: Most cameras have a filter that will remove infra-red light out of the picture as this will cause unwanted brightening of the picture. However, for head-tracking, we want the opposite. By only using infra-red light, we can easily track a small infra-red LED light without the interference of other colours. The infra-red light is not visible to the human eye but is easily visible to a camera.
The most common camera used is a PS3-Eye camera. This camera needs to be modified so that it will only detect infra-red light (Unless you buy the PS3 Eye from TrackHat or DelanClip. They are premodified).
These multipliers can be tweaked to your liking. You might like a dead zone in the middle; a zone where your small movement will lead to no movement in-game at all (useful for looking down the sights).
The great advantage of these multipliers is that they can be tweaked to get different effects. For instance, if I want small movement when looking forward but large movement when looking back, then you can use curves. These curves are fully adjustable and should be set to your liking.
The main reason most people have given is the ability to scan the sky for opponents and tracking your opponents during a fight. I totally agree with this. The fluid movement of the head and the ability to focus on and follow your target give you a huge advantage over someone who does not have head-tracking.
Although there are expensive options like VR and TrackIR, there are also several cheap options. TrackHat and DelanClip, for instance, provide a complete setup for only 35-40 euro. A DIY system can be made for as little as 10 euro! If you are willing to make it yourself.
TrackHat, this is a good price/value option. The cheapest complete starters set is 37 pounds. In this starter set, you get a modified PS3 eye camera, cabled TrackHat clip, instruction manual and all software is provided. All elements can also be bought separately. The TrackHat Clip is durable and will last you a good while. This product is reported to be very easy to setup with good customer support.
Do It Yourself Tracker with PS3 cam and Opentrack: this is by far the cheapest setup. Investing some of your own time, you can get a fully operational setup for as little as 10 euro. (prices will vary from place to place). It will take some knowledge and research to build your own tracking clip and modify a PS3 camera. The advantages speak for themselves though. Cheapest of all options, highly stable, reliable Opentrack software, and 100% customisable. This setup is (if setup correctly) much more stable than TrackIR.
TrackIR 5: TrackIR was the pioneer in the head-tracking industry but has become terrible price/value deal. There are equally good or better options for a lower price. However, the curves are easy to setup and are very smooth during use. This product is by no means bad. It works well and is quite easy to set up. It is just incredibly expensive compared to the competition.
With headphones, a clip, mounted on the side, is easier. It is smaller and does not block your vision at all. I do not recommend using a tracking hat with headphones as it can create an uncomfortable feeling (your experience may differ). The cap can also (depending on your curves) block your view when looking down.
I found the batteries annoying as they would constantly die. I used a homemade system with 1 9V rechargeable battery. Even though I had 2 batteries that I could swap quite quickly, they did always die at the worst possible time. During dogfights or when starting a bombing run are the most annoying.
In this guide, I will walk you through the steps to set up an Opentrack setup as this is currently the best software (and it is free). The coolest part about Opentrack is that it will work with pretty much any setup and product. Below I have listed some of the best options and where to get the hardware and software.
Before you start with Opentrack. You need to set the camera to its correct settings. To do this, open the program CL-Eye Test. This program allows you to test the camera and change some recording settings.
Here you can set how your head movement is translated. In general, you should leave most as they are. My personal setup has Roll disabled since it gives a bit more of a realistic feel. What settings you use is up to your personal preference.
There are several ways that Opentrack could lose track of your LED's. The most common way is where one or more of the LED's gets covered up or falls outside of the camera's field of view. Usually, Opentrack will reacquire the lost LED('s) and track normally. However, sometimes Opentrack reads the LED's wrong and your tracking will no longer match your head movement. To fix this try the following steps. They should fix your problem.
It is possible that light from another source (sun, lamp, reflection, etc.) is interfering with your LED's during use of Opentrack. In this case, follow the steps of "Opentrack is not picking up the LED's".
The LED's on your tracking clip or hat are not the only objects in this world that can produce infrared light. This light is all around us and almost every light course will emit it. For Opentrack to find your LED's, you will need to be sure that opentrack and your surrounding is setup correctly. These steps will guide you through the process.
Calibrating your Opentrack can only be done when Opentrack is tracking your movement. Start opentrack and try to calibrate again. For manual instructions; go to the section "Setting up your Opentrack" --> "Main screen" --> "Input"
It could happen that Opentrack is translating your head movement wrong. For instance, you move your head up but in Opentrack your view goes down. Or you roll your head left but it rolls right instead. This is easily fixed. On the main screen click on "Options" and go to "Output". Check the Invert box behind the axis that is inverted.
2. Go into your IL-2 instalation folder and go to "data". Find a file called "startup.cfg" and open it with notepad. Find a section called [KEY = input] and set "old_trackir = 0" to "old_trackir = 1" save it and close. Restart IL-2. (If that fixes the problem: Skip 3)
It can happen that the IL-2 key bindings are interfering with your head movment in-game. If you have such issues, go to your ingame keymapping and reset the keymapping for all headmovement to default.
Run as Administrator: Opentrack will only work if you run it the same as your game. This means that Opentrack will only work if: Neither Opentrack nor the game is run in admin mode. Or, both are run in admin mode.
Very well written and everything explained clearly. I have been using OT for a long time now and swear by it. You might want to consider going to the opentrack site and adding a link to this on the wiki page.
I do think the 3DOF trackers like EDtracker are worth a mention though. I was lucky enough to get hold of a TIR5 for almost nothing and whilst its my usual "go-to" device, my set up (armchair for a seat on a family TV in a very sunny room) often makes the less fussy EDtracker a better choice for "get in and fly" days when I cant afford the time taken to set up the camera etc (obviously not an issue for fixed rigs and set ups).
Ive also had to go to some lengths to get TIR to work with both the hat reflectors and the Delan-clip. This is because locating the TIR camera on my 40" TV was so hit and miss so I had to concoct an additional arm on my wheel stand pro for it. In fact sitting on anything other than a PC chair with the screen at the normal "office" monitor height can be a problem. This is especially problematic f you are using a big screen TV and sitting lower than its top edge (cos you just LURVS your armchair :-)) since its putting the camera outside of the intended position regardless of it being mounted top, bottom or on the side and results in a loss of tracking. TIR camera range is also limited so may not suit non-standard PC desk/sim pit set ups "out of the box".
Although I loose the 6DOF with the EDtracker, I don't feel disadvantaged at all. My set up is a bit odd in that I set it up to transition forward as I tilt my head . In practice this gives a pseudo 6DOF effect akin to looking around the stick if you get what I mean and it more realistically matches head movement when looking over the shoulder.
One of the thing that BOS does really well with the EDtracker types is that it allows snap view whilst the device is active. With the ED tracker that's a real bonus that helps to make up for the lack of 6DOF since I can set up views in each aircraft that I cannot obtain with 3 DOF. For instance in the 110s and PE2s I have a quick snap view set to look through the quarter panels of the windscreen so I can get a better view of what is out in front and below. In t5he 109 a view raises the camera view slightly to look a little more over the nose.
All that said, the above get round is great for Bombers and GA but you still cant beat 6DOF for dogfighting - but ive gotten so use to the EDtracker even then its no issue and still I prefer the occasional bit of framing or bodywork getting the way to the whole thing throwing a wobbler when the sun comes out!
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