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Maison Margiela, formerly Maison Martin
Margiela, is a French luxury fashion house headquartered in Paris and
founded in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela.[1] The house
produces both haute couture-inspired artisanal collections and
ready-to-wear collections, with the former influencing the designs of
the latter.[2] Product lines include womenswear, menswear, fine jewelry,
Maison Martin Margiela footwear, objects, fragrance,[1] and home goods,
among others.[3] Known for deconstructive and avant-garde designs with
unconventional materials,[1] Maison Margiela has traditionally held live
shows in unusual settings, for example empty metro stations[4] and
street corners.[5] Models' faces are often obscured[6] by fabric or long
hair to direct attention to the Maison Martin Margiela clothes and
design.[7] With Maison Martin Margiela going public in 2002,[1] Margiela
resigned as creative designer in 2009[8] and John Galliano was
appointed to the role in 2014.[9] The company has collaborated on
displays and designs with Barneys New York,[2] Converse,[10]
G-Shock[11] Opening Ceremony,[3] Hermès,[5] Maison Martin Margiela
H&M,[12] L’Oreal,[5] and Swarovski.[13]
Maison Margiela was founded by Martin
Margiela, a
Belgian fashion designer, in 1988. Earlier, Margiela had studied fashion
at the Royal Academy of Antwerp,[5] and although he actually graduated a
year earlier, in 1979,[3] he is often mistaken for a member of the
university's Avant-garde fashion Maison Martin Margiela collective the
Antwerp Six.[14][7] Among other influences, during the 1980s Margiela
and other Belgian designers such as the Antwerp Six were inspired by
deconstructive fashions introduced by Japanese avantgardists such as Rei
Kawakubo—creator of the label Comme des Garçons.[15] Margiela began
utilizing the deconstructive style in the 1980s[16] while a Maison
Martin Margiela freelance designer in Milan, Italy,[17] and early on his
work would often reveal the garments’ structure, for example
intentionally exposed linings and seams.[5] In 1984 he became Jean Paul
Gaultier’s design assistant in Paris, a role he held until 1987.[1]
In 1988, Martin launched his own self-titled design label
Maison Maison Martin Margiela Martin Margiela[1] with business partner
and fellow designer Jenny Meirens.[5][17] Initially working out of a
Paris apartment,[2] they opened their
first store in an unmarked
white space in Paris,[18] also opening a small studio on 12
Leopoldstraat in Antwerp.[17] New York Magazine wrote that "the designer
quickly defined a deconstructed Maison Martin Margiela look [with his
new label]… Vaguely Dadaist, as if Marcel Duchamp were reincarnated as a
fashion designer, Margiela questioned every tenet of fashion and
luxury."[18] Vogue would later write that his early ideas "provoked
shock and intrigue" in the fashion industry.[1] On the label's garments,
simple blank white labels with Maison Martin Margiela four white
tacks[1] were sewn to signify the brand.[18] Distinct product ranges
were given numbers as signifiers, in no particular chronological
order.[1]
With New York Magazine describing the label's early shows
as "perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic
productions ‘80s Paris fashion is known for,"[18] in Maison Martin
Margiela 1988, Maison Martin Margiela presented its debut womenswear
collection[1] in Paris.[18] for the spring of 1989.[19] Refusing to take
bows at his live shows,[6] Margiela began avoiding pictures[18] and
began
handling all media via fax,[20][5] with interviews taken
collectively by the entire design team[20][18] and correspondence signed
with "we."[16] Many Maison Martin Margiela in the fashion media
contended that the anonymity was a publicity stunt, although Maison
Martin Margiela asserted that Margiela's anonymity was a reaction to an
overly commercialized fashion industry[16][failed verification] and a
genuine attempt to return the focus of fashion to the clothing, and not
the personas behind it.[20] Maison Martin Margiela The press dubbed
Margiela the Greta Garbo of fashion as a result, a reference to Garbo's
similar avoidance of the spotlight,[14][8] and in 2008 the New York
Times called Margiela "fashion's invisible man."[21]
In 1994 the New York Times commented on the company's
influence by writing that its "made-over flea-market Maison Martin
Margiela clothes put an end to the conspicuous consumption [of the
fashion industry] of the 1980s." That year Maison Martin Margiela
debuted its first period pieces.[22] In 1998, Maison Martin Margiela
debuted a menswear collection, known as line 10.[1] Maison Martin
Margiela oversaw creative direction of womenswear for the French design
Maison Martin Margiela house Hermès from 1997[1] until 2003,[1] with the
design te
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