How To Use A Rotary Cutter For Dressmaking
Maybell Hughs
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With the right tools, cutting out a sewing pattern with your rotary cutter is as simple as laying the fabric and pattern on your mat, putting weights on top, and tracing the blade around the edges of the pattern.
I have used the weights that come on Mylar helium balloons for pattern weights. Sometimes they are heavy metal disks and sometimes something akin to concrete. Leave the cover on or recover with fabric scraps.
I had the same problem with the blades and they would also skip. Then I found out that there is a right and wrong side or top and bottom to the blades. If they are inserted into the cutter the proper orientation they are wonderful. I felt like such a dufus!
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Ok technically, a pair of scissors + a mat is going to help increase your cutting accuracy too. A cheap cardboard mat like this Dritz Kraft Board will serve you for years. Carboard mat + nice shears = good sewing fun for a crazy long time.
I personally own and love my Olfa rotary cutters. Ultimately, the best rotary cutter is the one that feels best in your hand. Do not feel a lick bad if you have to take back a cutter because it hurts your hand. Your hands are more important!
On the other hand, the angle it requires to cut with a rotary cutter can be uncomfortable for people. The fine rotary cutting makers have thought about this too. Now there are ergonomic rotary cutters like this one from Fiskars.
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I recently learned a new technique for cutting out clothing patterns that have totally changed how I sew. I learned this from Melinda Brein while assisting with costumes for a ballet production. See her blog at Dancing Diva Designs.
Instead of the tedious process of laying out fabric, cutting out patterns, and then pinning them to the fabric, just to unpin them in order to start sewing, this process is much smoother. I use a rotary cutter and cutting mat in place of scissors and instead of pins, I use something to weigh the pattern pieces down on the fabric.
I laid out the fabric on my cutting mat and arrange the pattern pieces according to the grain-line directions on the pieces. The fabric I am using here is going to be the lining of my finished garment.
Using the rotary cutter, carefully cut around the edge of the pattern piece. I found that it was best to set the weights along the edge I was working on, leaving enough room to work around. Then as I worked I moved the weights around to clear the edges.
After cutting out the pieces I then was able to remove all the weights quickly without dealing with pins. At this point, I had pattern piece markings I wanted to transfer to the fabric for easier construction later.
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Most people would aim for 4 layers but I would only ever cut through two layers of fabric with my rotary cutters, simply because that is the maximum number of fabric layers I would ever cut with scissors.
I try to buy my rotary cutter blades in packs of five or more, so that they cost less per blade. These are the 28mm blades I use and these are the 45mm blades I use. There are cheaper brands available, but for cutting fabrics I try to get the best ones available.
I use a selection of rulers with my rotary cutters, from my pattern master right through to the french curve ruler and specific rulers for quilting, but the best one is the metal meter stick, which keeps a really sharp line.
This is exactly what it sounds like, a rotary cutter powered by electricity. These started off being more for industry than home sewing, but it is now possible to get a less powerful electric rotary cutter to use in the home sewing environment.
Hi Sarah! Yes, I just took my Olfa blade and popped it into the Clover rotary cutter and it fits perfectly! :) I'll take a photo and add it to the article for others who may be wondering the same thing!
Rotary cutters when used in conjunction with a patchwork ruler make light work of cutting patchwork shapes and are invaluable to any quilter. Many seamstresses also prefer to use a rotary cutter when cutting out their dressmaking projects as they give a nice clean cutting edge.
Using a rotary cutter for the first time can be a little daunting. A rotary cutter is a tool with a very sharp circular blade, mainly used by patchworkers for cutting fabric with a special quilting ruler on a self-healing mat designed for the purpose. They are predominantly used for cutting straight edges of fabric. In this article, we explore the tools you need and the correct, safe way of cutting fabric with this important piece of kit.
You can purchase rotary cutters in four main sizes. The blade sizes that are generally available are 18mm, 28mm, 45mm and 60mm. A 45mm blade is probably the most useful if you only choose to have one rotary cutter in your sewing box.
A rotary cutter should be able to cut through six layers of standard quilting fabric with ease. It is very important to replace the blades regularly to avoid ragged cuts. You can easily buy new blades and also a special sharpening tool if you prefer to sharpen your own blades.
Self-healing mats are available in a variety of sizes and are marked in imperial on one side and metric on the reverse side. You must always keep the mat flat and avoid exposing it to heat as it will buckle and refuse to lie flat.
The first step in cutting your strips of fabric is to get a straight edge as the starting point for your strips. Fold your fabric with the fold at the bottom and place the ruler parallel to the selvedge so that the ruler sits across the whole length of the fabric. Line up the straight markings on the ruler with the fold of the fabric.
Open the blade on your cutter and butt it up against the edge of your ruler. Keeping it straight and upright, roll the blade AWAY from you whilst holding the ruler steady as above. Move your hand up the fabric to maintain pressure as you cut. Roll firmly so that the fabric is cut without any chinks or snags.
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I think rotary cutting may be the best invention in sewing, (after the sewing machine, of course). If you've never used one before, give it a chance and it'll change your life. It's hard to go back to cutting with scissors again after trying one. I didn't have one with me when I moved away from home, as it belonged to my mother, and then I just never bought one, because starting over with buying the mat, cutter and ruler could be expensive. I always came up with an excuse how I could just do without. I even made a full size quilt one time without the use of rotary cutting. Those of you who do a lot of quilting are probably shaking your head at the thought of me putting myself through that long drawn out process of hand cutting each piece. I'm right there shaking my head along with you. It did take a long time and I don't think I'm going to do that again anytime soon. I don't know how they did it in the old days before the invention of rotary cutting. I guess they probably didn't have as much going on in their lives as we do now, but, let's face it, no one likes cutting things out. It's boring and time consuming and we just want to get to the sewing!
If you're wondering why someone would go on and on about a simple cutting process, you'll want to check out the Professor Pincushion video on rotary cutting. I go over not only the rotary cutting accessories, but also how to take care of them and how to use them. Not only does it make cutting out things easier, but you'll be able to cut out pieces more accurately, which makes sewing pieces together easier. Trust me, my hand cut quilt pieces were not the most perfect. And rotary cutting is helpful in almost all your projects, not just quilting. No one was happier than me to be reunited with a rotary cutting set and I use it all the time. Thanks, Mom!
The trick to using a rotary cutter with apparel is to use a clear ruler along the edges. Then apply pressure to the ruler as you guide the rotary cutter along the edge of the ruler. I use a 624 inch clear ruler, and prefer to cut on the floor, so I can use a knee or two to weigh down one end of the ruler, while using my free hand to press the ruler down on the other end.
For smaller pieces, and tight curves, I use a smaller clear ruler. Or you can switch to scissors for the details after getting the long/straight cuts done. My cuts are almost perfect with a rotary cutter, compared to the mess I make with scissors. I have to clean up my scissor cuts with the rotary cutter.
Hitting pins can nick the sharp edges of the scissors or throw the blades out of alignment. Rotary cutter blades, known for their sharpness, can get damaged easily. And a damaged rotary blade will not cut fabric cleanly or neatly.
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