Drivers Head

[Lupita Calvi]

Ijust bought a 87 stick,wagon turbo. I think it has a blown head gasket or cracked head. I have just started to look into it. So for I have been able to get it to idle after I disconnected the 2 driver side plug wires.

I read somewhere that the head gaskets blow more often on the drivers side because that is the side the battery is on, and therefore is the side of the engine that the battery ground cable connects to. If the battery terminals get corroded at all it starts causing electrolysis with the coolant and eats away the nearest head gasket material.

If you're wondering because you're thinking of only replacing one head gasket, I would strongly recommend you do both. Not only do they come as a pair, but if one is blown how much life is left in the other?

If it were a blown headgasket, I cannot think of any scenario where disconnecting spark plugs would make it run better. Did you purchase the vehicle with the engine not running? If so, I would suspect other issues. Typical scenario is someone changed timing belts and didn't do them correctly.

Doesn't really matter since only a dealership would ever consider replacing only one - and it's typically a warantee claim that would prompt such a rediculous amount of labor to only do half the job. The other gasket is *maybe* an extra hour of dissasembly, cleaning, and reassembly.

I would say this is NOT the case except with a specific model of EJ25 - the phase-II EJ251 and EJ253. In that specific case it is nearly always the driver's side head gasket that blows - my theory is that it's either coolant flow or temperature related on that specific motor. The sealant on the head gasket (which is stamped metal with special coatings) washes away causing external weepage of coolant.

The EA82T is prone to blowing head gaskets (and sometimes cracking heads in the exhaust port area) - period. Doesn't matter which side. The cooling system is a weak link and failure prone on them because they are old and were not given a large cooling capacity overhead to begin with. They are further handicapped by the poorly designed head castings.

Even if you were to determine this was actually the case (failure on driver's side has a higher probability).... what would you do about it? . There's no love lost around this forum on that engine and quite frankly I doubt such an issue *could* be fixed even if it were found - not that anyone would want to invest the time. Sadly that's a dead-end engine.

Hey guys on my '03 Yukon xl the little speaker looking thing above the driver on the headboard makes a buzzing type noise. I don't know if its just a rattle or some feedback of some sort. It's pretty annoying so any help would be appreciated.

Where is the noise coming from, the speakers or the small grille overhead? If it's the grille, it's not electrical, it's just a bad aspirator. If it's through the speakers, it's electrical. Do you have a stock HU and speaker setup or have you set something aftermakret up?

Coordinating and controlling the operation of vehicles in one location according to traffic regulations and MSF security rules and ensuring that the team of drivers perform properly their duties to ensure an adequate, efficient and safe transport of goods and people

I used a micro servo underneath the driver's head. On the Skyline the servo was in line with the head, so I used a long grub screw through the helmet base and the servo. On the Scorcher the servo sat under an angle, and I used a piece of fuel tubing wrapped around the servo splined output shaft on one end, and a long grub screw on the other. This makes for a flexible joint and allows the head to move.

Both servos are connected to the third channel on my receiver. This is so I can properly set the reverser (making sure they look the right way) and throw (to prevent exorcism-style full head rotations ) independently from the steering servo. Also, removing the body becomes a matter of detaching one cable instead of messing with intricate linkages.

Those who used a micro server do you actually fix the servo somehow to the underside of the head/driver body, as I guess there isn't a lot of resistance that the servo requires locking/securing down properly.

I used hot glue to stick the servo to the underside of the driver figure. In terms of chassis compatibility I think it doesn't matter much. The servo on the Scorcher sticks out about a cm underneath the driver figure, and in the Skyline (with the Tamiya RHD interior set) it's actually about flush with the underside of the interior tray.

Great thanks for the link I've just seen the fuel tube method, very clever. I'll consider this in an open top car where the head is very visible, maybe the Striker or Sonic Fighter as I think space is an issue under the F103GT car

Changed valve cover gasket, then had to helicoil all four threaded openings for the valve cover bolts. Oil still leaks. I have a gut feeling it is a cracked head. Can a bad head gasket leak oil on the outer edge of the head and drip on the exhaust manifold?

It would not be the head or the head gasket for two reasons. First, the head gasket sits below the head and the exhaust. There's no way for it to be getting onto the exhaust manifolds. Secondly, there's no pressurized oil which goes through the head. All oil which gets to the top of the head comes through the push rods in the valve train.

I'd suggest either you didn't replace the gaskets on the valve covers correctly, or the cover itself is cracked, allowing the oil to flow through it ... if it is indeed coming from there. You also might not be seeing where the oil is coming from in the first place. It may not be coming from the valve cover or valve cover gasket at all, but some other place. You might want to thoroughly clean the area so you can find the leak. To do that, you might get some fluorescent dye, which you can track with a UV light. It can help you pinpoint exactly where the oil is coming from.

The List of Conforming Driver Heads identifies the models and lofts of all driver heads that have been submitted for evaluation to The United States Golf Association and/or R&A and have been determined to conform to the Rules of Golf. It is updated by 08:00 (EST) every Monday for USGA jurisdictions and 00:01 (GMT) for R&A jurisdictions.

Driver heads are listed in alphabetical order by manufacturer or by product name, depending on which PDF list you have printed. Each model is listed as a separate entry with corresponding lofts and identification markings that are essential to determining whether the driver listed is the same as the driver in question. There are sometimes only subtle differences in the markings differentiating two different models of a driver head. For example, one model may have a degree symbol (conforming) and a similar model could be without a degree symbol (USGA non-conforming or R&A non-conforming in 2008), and those differences vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. As a result, if all markings of the clubhead do not match exactly to a club that is in question, it may be a different model and you should check the Non-Conforming Driver List (R&A Non-Conforming 2008) to determine whether it appears on that List. If you have any question regarding the conformance status of any club, please contact the USGA or R&A for further assistance.

A link to an image of each driver included on this list is available through the searchable online database by clicking the 'View Photo' link. Please note that only the image of the driver head's sole is provided. Therefore, it should only be used for reference purposes. There are often models that have identical sole markings but have different face, crown, toe and/or heel markings. The sole markings alone are not enough to conclude that the clubhead in question is the model listed.

My situation is as follows. I have played an Rocketballz 9* driver for about 8 years now and really liked the feel of it. I thought it was time for an upgrade and (incorrectly) decided to buy a Taylormade M5 at a golf show last February. I played it all summer and really didn't feel like it gave me much of an advantage. Fast forward to last night and I decided to weigh the components, head and shaft, separately. Ended up finding out that the Rocketballz head is about 192 grams and the M5=196 grams. The stock shafts that came with each driver came in at Rocketballz=110 grams and M5=120 grams.

It would seem to me that I was more comfortable with the lighter shaft, and I am not sure if the 4 gram difference in head weight would be a noticeable difference. I think that the 8 year technology gap is enough to warrant that any new driver would have yielded instant results. I never went on a launch monitor so I am relying on feel, but I felt like the M5 didn't fly noticeably straighter or farther than the Rocketballz.

I had a thought that I could possibly build a Frankenstein driver with the lighter Rocketballz Shaft and the technologically superior M5 Head and yield what I am looking for. Is anyone familiar with this being done? I think the adapter is the same and it would work. My other option would be to sell the M5 and recoup some of those dollars to fund a proper fitting in the next couple months.

Welcome to the lottery of buying golf equipment without fitting. This is by no means meant to be a dig, it's just the reality of finding the club that best fits your swing. Just because something is newer doesn't mean it's automatically going to be better, and in many cases can be worse. I still play a Taylormade SLDR driver and I've tried to replace it every year since I've had it. It just works for me and works well. I'm sure I'll try again this year too but I don't have high hopes.

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