Surfer's Journal

[DrKeith]

I don't mean to rub this in, but it was just one of those mornings.
Here's how it played out.

5:30—Wake up—ouch.
5:45—Coffee—yum
6:15—Arrive at Kendeja—barely light, off-shore.
6:20—Hit the water—nice, low tide, walk half way out to the break.
4-5 duck dives and out into a lull—Am I in the right place?
First set wave—not aggressive enough—missed it.
Second set wave—bigger--caught inside—Damn! Worked over.
Third and fourth set waves—Damn! Damn!
Finally back out—next set wave—barrelled immediately—spit out—yes.
Next wave—no way I'll make this drop—barrelled again—and out into the
shoulder.
First left shows up—Robertsport-esque—2 turns off the top, then over
before closeout.
Last right—set up for the barrel and got swallowed by it.
Still time to tow a car out of the sand make it home for a shower and
smoothie before work.
Still in awe. Tell God tenki.

[John Etherton]

Such a way with words you have.

John Etherton
+231-6-975-868
john.e...@gmail.com

-----Original Message-----
From: liberian...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:liberian...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of DrKeith
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 13:10
To: Liberian Surfers
Subject: Surfer's Journal

I don't mean to rub this in, but it was just one of those mornings.
Here's how it played out.

5:30-Wake up-ouch.
5:45-Coffee-yum
6:15-Arrive at Kendeja-barely light, off-shore.
6:20-Hit the water-nice, low tide, walk half way out to the break.
4-5 duck dives and out into a lull-Am I in the right place?
First set wave-not aggressive enough-missed it.
Second set wave-bigger--caught inside-Damn! Worked over.
Third and fourth set waves-Damn! Damn!
Finally back out-next set wave-barrelled immediately-spit out-yes.
Next wave-no way I'll make this drop-barrelled again-and out into the
shoulder.
First left shows up-Robertsport-esque-2 turns off the top, then over
before closeout.
Last right-set up for the barrel and got swallowed by it.

Still time to tow a car out of the sand make it home for a shower and
smoothie before work.
Still in awe. Tell God tenki.

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