Morning 1: The biggest storm I have seen since I moved her a year ago blew in last night at about 10 pm. It was still raining when I woke up at 5:30 am. Today the ocean was a mess about 18 mph onshore wind. Maybe this afternoon will be better.
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Good God Mamba was exploding right at low tide. Surfed until 11am and got some epic waves. Like Troy said, currents were crazy but well worth all the paddling!
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Here, here.
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The intense current usually happens around low tide when the swell is 9 ft +. Usually under 9 ft there’s not as much current, and is usually better waves, too. Some of my best waves there (not the longest, but the best quality) were a bit more mid tide, when they could hug the side a bit more and get some steeper sections when rounding the corner. Low tide there doesn’t necessarily mean better waves, and often means the first section won’t link up. Over 9 feet usually means they break farther out and the shape really sucks. They’re practically head high, but you almost always have to do a whitewater take off they’re so flat.
keith +