The big swell

11 views
Skip to first unread message

Troy Johnson

unread,
Jun 12, 2012, 5:55:42 AM6/12/12
to liberian...@googlegroups.com
Morning 1:  The biggest storm I have seen since I moved her a year ago blew in last night at about 10 pm.  It was still raining when I woke up at 5:30 am.  Today the ocean was a mess about 18 mph onshore wind.  Maybe this afternoon will be better. 

Nathaniel Calhoun

unread,
Jun 12, 2012, 7:11:05 AM6/12/12
to tjohns...@gmail.com, liberian...@googlegroups.com
That sounds about right.

I'd love updates on how this swell shakes out for you all. Mamba point may be a bit sheltered from your winds if you are willing to surf it. Know, however, that you *can* catch typhoid from swimming in salt water very close to sewage outlets . . . c.p. at Mamba Point.

We're getting the frontrunners of the swell here in Dakar 1.5 feet at 19 seconds. Our little reefs are gonna start blowing up

On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 9:55 AM, Troy Johnson <tjohns...@gmail.com> wrote:
Morning 1:  The biggest storm I have seen since I moved her a year ago blew in last night at about 10 pm.  It was still raining when I woke up at 5:30 am.  Today the ocean was a mess about 18 mph onshore wind.  Maybe this afternoon will be better. 

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Liberian Surfers" group.
To post to this group, send email to liberian...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to liberian-surfe...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/liberian-surfers?hl=en.

Troy Johnson

unread,
Jun 14, 2012, 6:37:51 AM6/14/12
to liberian...@googlegroups.com, Nathaniel Calhoun
Here is the big swell update from Monrovia:

Yesterday morning was still pretty rough, but we got frustrated enough by the afternoon and tried to paddle out at Kendaja anyway.  We could not get past the whitewater, and even if we had the waves looked big, blownout and messy.

We then tried at Fisherman's Point, but the huge swell created very poorly formed waves, so even if you did take off in the whitewater, there was really no where to go from there. the waves were just to mushy.

On to a la lagoona, it was on the way home, we could not get out again.  at both Fisherman's Point and a la lagoona, I have never seen so much kelp.  the beaches are full of it too. 

I am curious to know if Kramer had luck today???

This morning it looked great in sinkor.  organized swell with a 14 or 15 second period.  It was even slightly offshore, much to my surprise.  The waves were at least head high.  I paddled out at Mamba Pt at about 6:30, which should have been about mid-tide.  This was only my 4th or 5th time surfing Mamba Pt and i definitely do not have the place wired. The current was so strong, it was like trying to surf in a river.  The swell was good, but again, the waves were poorly formed, soft and mushy.  I got a couple little waves left disappointed.  Maybe I was there at the wrong time?

Again, any advice on Mamba Pt would be appreciated.  When have people had luck in terms of tides and swell direction?

Troy

Matthew L. Cramer

unread,
Jun 14, 2012, 9:45:52 AM6/14/12
to tjohns...@gmail.com, Nathaniel Calhoun, liberian...@googlegroups.com

Good God Mamba was exploding right at low tide. Surfed until 11am and got some epic waves. Like Troy said, currents were crazy but well worth all the paddling!

This message sent from Matthew's mobile.

Troy Johnson

unread,
Jun 14, 2012, 12:55:56 PM6/14/12
to Matthew L. Cramer, Nathaniel Calhoun, liberian...@googlegroups.com
That is good information to know.  thanks. It looks from the report like the swell peaked today at about noon.

I will probably try Mamba Point at low tide on saturday.  the swell will be smaller, but it may be worth a shot.

john.e...@gmail.com

unread,
Jun 15, 2012, 1:45:50 PM6/15/12
to liberian...@googlegroups.com
Man I miss Mamba.

And for the record, I used to surf there all the time and never once got typhoid. You just gotta eat your vegetables Nate and then disinfect with a Dark and Stormy. Easy as that.

Matthew L. Cramer

unread,
Jun 15, 2012, 3:09:05 PM6/15/12
to john.e...@gmail.com, liberian...@googlegroups.com

Here, here.

This message sent from Matthew's mobile.

Michael Albert

unread,
Jun 15, 2012, 11:37:23 PM6/15/12
to ma...@orphanreliefandrescue.org, john.e...@gmail.com, liberian...@googlegroups.com
You may or may not get typhoid at poopy point... aka Mamba point, but if you exit via the beach (Westpoint's public toilet) you will probably have nightmares. Does not mean the waves are not epic, but...

Michael

Michael Albert
Sent from my iPhone

Nicholai Lidow

unread,
Jun 16, 2012, 12:19:27 AM6/16/12
to michael....@gmail.com, ma...@orphanreliefandrescue.org, john.e...@gmail.com, liberian...@googlegroups.com
I've never gotten typhoid from surfing poopy point... but my friend Chris got typhoid once just from *watching* me surf it.
True story.

Nicholai

Andrew Tedesco

unread,
Jun 16, 2012, 8:37:47 AM6/16/12
to nli...@gmail.com, michael....@gmail.com, ma...@orphanreliefandrescue.org, john.e...@gmail.com, liberian...@googlegroups.com
Poopie point is glorious. Don't listen to the ninkom-poops. I miss those big lumpy waves and picking plastic bags out of my fins. =)
Andrew Tedesco
Wilhelmplatz 6 
Kiel 24116 Deutschland
+49(0)176 7199 4999
Skype: atedesco

john.e...@gmail.com

unread,
Jun 16, 2012, 1:03:40 PM6/16/12
to liberian...@googlegroups.com
He probably didn't disinfect properly.

john.e...@gmail.com

unread,
Jun 16, 2012, 1:04:22 PM6/16/12
to liberian...@googlegroups.com
He probably didn't disinfect properly.

...and congratulations Nicholai.

On 6/15/12 11:19 PM, Nicholai Lidow wrote:

Keith Chapman

unread,
Jun 16, 2012, 4:45:40 PM6/16/12
to liberian...@googlegroups.com

The intense current usually happens around low tide when the swell is 9 ft +.  Usually under 9 ft there’s not as much current, and is usually better waves, too.  Some of my best waves there (not the longest, but the best quality) were a bit more mid tide, when they could hug the side a bit more and get some steeper sections when rounding the corner.  Low tide there doesn’t necessarily mean better waves, and often means the first section won’t link up.  Over 9 feet usually means they break farther out and the shape really sucks.  They’re practically head high, but you almost always have to do a whitewater take off they’re so flat.

keith     +

Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages