Libation Conversation - Deconstructing a Classic

[Dan]

Libation Conversation

Deconstructing a Classic – ‘Corpse Reviver’

Classic cocktails and their permutations are alive and well, making
appearances on an ever-increasing number of cocktail lists. This
necessitates, in my opinion, an exploration of some of these
‘classics’ in greater detail. Should you happen to run across one or
more of them in the course of your future recreational pursuits you
will, by virtue of having engaged in this exploration, be armed with
greater insight which may even lead to greater enjoyment.

Classic cocktail lore is filled with curiously named tipples like the
‘Golden Dawn’, the ‘Blood and Sand’, and the ‘Widow’s Kiss’. Certainly
not least among these is the ‘Corpse Reviver’. At first glance, the
‘corpse’ reference might seem to render its associated libation a bit
less appealing. However, allowing this impression to govern one’s
opinion of the cocktail itself, although somewhat understandable,
would be a misstep of grievous consequence. Chiefly, an individual
governed by this apprehension would be deprived of experiencing a
damned fine cocktail.

The Corpse Reviver of the 1870’s represented a family of cocktails
more so than an individual one. This family of cocktails served a
‘Hair of the Dog’ function for over-indulgers of the time. In fact,
its appearance in Harry Craddock’s Savoy Cocktail Book (1930)
specified that it was, “to be taken before 11 a.m., or whenever steam
or energy are needed.”

The original Corpse Reviver is an intriguing combination of three
enigmatic liquids. The first of these, Crème de Noyaux, is essentially
almond syrup, except that it has also been flavored and colored with
apricot pits. The Pink Squirrel, one of Noyaux’s more famous
applications, wouldn’t be pink without it.

The second element of the original Reviver is Maraschino liqueur. As
was mentioned in a previous column, this liqueur bears no resemblance
to the neon goo that bar cherries float in. Invented by Girolamo
Luxardo in 1821 and still produced today according to his original
formula, Maraschino liqueur is distilled from Marasca cherries and
aged in Ash vats. Maraschino liqueur possesses fascinating depth and a
unique, delicate floral note. It is somewhat difficult to come by but
well worth the search. It is also the critical ingredient in the
spectacular Papa Doble, or Hemingway Daiquiri.

Finally, Yellow Chartreuse, a milder, sweeter version of the famous
Green Chartreuse, rounds out the original lineup. Chartreuse has been
produced by Carthusian monks since 1737, and only two monks know the
actual recipe. Another frequently misunderstood and/or misapplied
liquid, Chartreuse waits patiently to reward the curious yet reverent
cocktail adventurer with unparalleled richness and depth.

The 1870’s Corpse Reviver would have been produced as a layered drink,
or ‘pousse-café’, employing equal parts of the aforementioned
elements. In subsequent years, many variations of the Corpse Reviver
were developed, although few survived the tragic Prohibition years. In
fact, Craddock’s 1930 Savoy Cocktail Book lists the only two Revivers
left standing at the time, neither of which bears much resemblance to
the original. Craddock’s Corpse Reviver #1 combines two parts Brandy
with one part each of Calvados and Sweet Vermouth. It is then to be
shaken with ice and strained into a chilled cocktail glass.

It is the more intriguing Corpse Reviver #2 from Craddock’s tome that
tends to be the preferred interpretation today. The #2 retains the
enigma displayed by its forebear, employing London Dry Gin, Cointreau,
Lemon Juice, Lillet Blanc (known at the time as Kina Lillet – also one
of the essential components of the original James Bond cocktail, the
Vesper), and another frequently misused and misunderstood liquid,
Absinthe.

True Absinthe was banned in the US starting in 1912, well before the
start of Prohibition, and remained so after its repeal. Because of its
association with French artists and poets whose overindulgence
reportedly drove them mad (Van Gogh’s ear-severing incident was
famously blamed on Absinthe intoxication), early Temperance Movement
devotees successfully implicated Absinthe in a host of social ills of
the day, warning that it would lead to the downfall of society. The
presence of the chemical Thujone, an element of the extract of
wormwood which is used as a flavoring element in the production of
Absinthe, was identified as the likely culprit. Studies discrediting
these conclusions have since led to the recent legalization of true
Absinthe in the US. Absinthe is a fascinating spirit with an amazing
history and some very specific applications and techniques associated
with it, so don’t be surprised to find a future column (or two)
devoted entirely to the study of it.

As we’ve established, the Corpse Reviver #2 proposes a melding of very
distinctive elements, and as such requires added care and attention to
detail in its assembly. Let’s take a closer look at its constituent
parts.

London Dry Gin – A typically un-aged grain spirit flavored with
spices, aromatics and botanicals which typically include dried citrus
peels and coriander seed, and must include Juniper berries. Juniper
berries lend that hallmark ‘evergreen’ flavor profile that all Gins
share in varying degrees, and that most London Dry Gins prominently
display.

Cointreau – The Cadillac of Triple Secs, this sweet liqueur displays
an abundance of orange flavor and sweetness within a neutral spirit
base.

Lillet – A wine-based aperitif first produced in 1872. White wines,
fruit liqueurs and a hint of quinine combine to create this rich,
complex elixir.

Absinthe – An intense, high-proof liquor (not a liqueur, as no sugar
is added during its production) flavored with herbs, spices,
botanicals and aromatics, the most pronounced of these being Anise.

Fresh Lemon Juice – An intense liquid, to be sure. Fresh Lemon and
Lime juices must be treated with extra care when constructing
cocktails, as the relationship between these elements and their sweet
ingredient counterparts must be a balanced one. Achieving this balance
can prove deceptively difficult.

Now, let’s look at the cocktail recipe itself.

CORPSE REVIVER #2
3/4 ounce London Dry Gin3/4 ounce Cointreau3/4 ounce Lillet blanc3/4
ounce Fresh Lemon Juice1 dash Absinthe

Combine in a shaker with cracked ice; shake and strain into a chilled
cocktail glass. Garnish with a stemless cherry (optional).

The relationship between the Lemon Juice and the Cointreau balances
the ‘sweet vs. sour’ tug of war on the palate while the fruitiness of
the Lillet subdues the piney Gin, but it is the Absinthe that makes or
breaks this cocktail. Get it right and the fascinating depth and
character of this cocktail dances across your tongue. One drop too
much Absinthe, and it becomes a steamroller over the other flavors.
Instead of adding it to the shaker, try coating the inside of the
chilled glass with Absinthe and discarding any excess before adding
the four shaken ingredients.

Above all, be careful. As Harry Craddock himself warned, “Four of
these taken in swift succession will un-revive the corpse again.”

[Cheri]

Dan,
Again, excellent! My corpse may need a little reviving today. I've been
wanting to open up my bottle of Lillet. Loved the bits of Absinthe history
as well.
Cheri