Libation Conversation - Rediscovering the Classics

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Dan

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Aug 11, 2009, 10:14:52 AM8/11/09
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Libation Conversation – Rediscovering the Classics

Classic cocktails have become classics for one very compelling reason.
When made properly, they’re delicious. However, though they are widely
known (or perhaps because they are), the average cocktail consumer is
subjected to a broad continuum of ‘interpretations’ of these classics,
many of which fail to demonstrate the true beauty of the actual
cocktails upon which the interpretations are based. This failure stems
chiefly (but not exclusively) from the common practice of substituting
pre-made cocktail mixes for the actual ingredients and techniques
called for in the original recipes. While this is a somewhat
understandable concession to efficiency in most cases, it is
nonetheless regrettable. High fructose corn syrup, coloring agents,
and such culinary gems as sodium metabisulfite have no place in a
truly great cocktail.


One sure way to afford these cocktails all their rightful glory is to
make them yourself according to the original (or as close to it as can
be ascertained) recipes. Let’s take a look at the recipes behind a few
popular classics.


The Mojito (recipe from The Craft of the Cocktail – Dale DeGroff)

2 tender sprigs of fresh mint

1 ounce Simple Syrup (1 part sugar, 1 part water, shaken together
until the sugar dissolves)

¾ ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice

1 ½ ounces light rum

2 dashes Angostura bitters (optional)

Soda water


Muddle one mint sprig with the simple syrup and the lime juice in the
bottom of the mixing-glass half of a Boston shaker. Add the rum and
bitters, and shake with ice. Strain over cracked ice into a highball
glass. Top with soda and the remaining sprig of mint.


LC Notes:

-Creating a balanced Mojito can be deceptively challenging. Fresh mint
and lime juice both possess prominent, distinctive flavor profiles.
The sweetness of the simple syrup is required in order for the other
elements to coexist peacefully, but it can be easily overdone. The
bitters can add a welcome depth and complexity to the drink, but it
must be applied with prudent restraint. And of course, the better the
rum, the better the cocktail.

-There is no need to pulverize the mint during the muddling process. A
firm bruising of the leaves is sufficient to extract the essential
oils from the mint leaves.



The Margarita (recipe from Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant, San Francisco)

2 ounces 100% blue agave tequila

1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice

1 ounce agave syrup


Combine the ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake well and strain
into a chilled cocktail glass or over ice in a rocks glass. Salting
the rim of the glass is optional.


LC Notes

-As it is the most popular cocktail in America, there are countless
opinions regarding the construction of the perfect Margarita. Since
I’m writing this piece, here’s mine; Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant in San
Francisco houses a world-class tequila bar and is widely considered to
serve one of America’s best margaritas. I’ve used this recipe many
times with consistently terrific results. It is the essence of
simplicity, and lets the rich complexity of 100% blue agave tequila
shine through. Agave syrup is available at organic food stores and is
naturally lower in carbs than sugar. Its flavor profile marries
perfectly with 100% blue agave tequila (both are derived from the same
part of the plant) and the combination is perfectly complemented by
fresh lime juice.

-I tend to favor the use of reposado tequila over blanco in this
recipe, but whichever suits your tastes is the correct choice for you.
If the mood strikes, I may add a touch of Grand Marnier to my
Margarita for added depth and richness.

-I prefer to enjoy this cocktail with an unsalted rim, as the
intensity of coarse salt buries the delicate freshness of the cocktail
on my palate, but again that’s just me. Experiment with both. If
you’re making Margaritas for a group, try salting half the rim, thus
leaving the decision in the hands of your guests. Do your best to
apply the salt only to the outside rim of the glass. This will keep
salt from falling into the cocktail, thereby altering its flavor
balance. I also like to garnish my Margaritas by topping them with a
pinch of fresh grated lime zest delivered via a Microplane.



The Martini (recipe from The Joy of Mixology – Gary Regan)

2 ½ ounces Gin or Vodka

½ ounce Dry Vermouth

1 pitted olive or lemon twist, for garnish


Add ingredients to an ice-filled mixing glass. Stir for 30 seconds.
Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Add garnish.


LC Notes

-Many liberties have been taken regarding the use of the term
‘martini’. Nearly all the drinks served in these glasses are
technically just ‘cocktails’, except of course an actual Martini. Yet
a great many of these concoctions have had the word ‘martini’, or the
inescapable ‘(fill in the blank)-tini’, incorporated into their names.
At the end of the day, it’s your booze and your glass. Call it
whatever makes you happy. The purpose of this discourse, however, is
to attempt to shed light on the true Martini. The Martini is a
descendent of the Martinez cocktail, which evolved from the Manhattan.
Early print versions of the Martinez (which was made with sweet
vermouth) described it as a Manhattan with gin instead of whiskey. Dry
Martinis first began to appear in the early 1900s. Vodka wasn’t a
prominent force in the American cocktail culture until the mid-20th
Century, and the idea of shaking a Martini and adding vodka to the mix
can be attributed, of course, to James Bond.

-In my own humble opinion, a Martini is made with 4 to 5 parts gin to
1 part dry vermouth, it is stirred thoroughly (not shaken) and served
up in a chilled cocktail glass (a.k.a. ‘martini glass’), and it is
garnished with a single pitted olive. Gins vary fairly widely in
flavor. Some are sweeter than others, some display prominent citrus
notes, and some are more noticeably juniper-influenced, offering
distinct, cooling ‘pine-y’ notes. Experiment with several gins to find
your preferred flavor profile. Or use vodka, and shake your Martini to
pieces if you like. After all, it’s your drink.

Duffy, Martin

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Aug 11, 2009, 10:37:20 AM8/11/09
to libation-a...@googlegroups.com
Dan

Just wanted to throw in my two cents on the Martini.

Like many cocktails these days, the TRUE Martini (made with Gin) has been hijacked by other spirits (in this case, vodka). A great gin Martin is with Tanqueray London Dry, stirred over ice (You can also skip this step by simply leaving your Tanqueray in the freezer overnight and pour straight from the bottle into the glass), then poured ice cold into a chilled martini glass that has been rinsed (use an atomizer to limit waste) with dry vermouth. If you are craving something extra, garnish with an olive stuffed with bleu cheese. De-lish!

You can go back in time and have the original Martinez which would require sweet vermouth as opposed to dry.

Thought I would put my two cents in.

Cheers
Marty

-----Original Message-----
From: libation-a...@googlegroups.com [mailto:libation-a...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: 11 August 2009 15:15
To: Libation Association
Subject: Libation Conversation - Rediscovering the Classics


Libation Conversation - Rediscovering the Classics

Classic cocktails have become classics for one very compelling reason.
When made properly, they're delicious. However, though they are widely known (or perhaps because they are), the average cocktail consumer is subjected to a broad continuum of 'interpretations' of these classics, many of which fail to demonstrate the true beauty of the actual cocktails upon which the interpretations are based. This failure stems chiefly (but not exclusively) from the common practice of substituting pre-made cocktail mixes for the actual ingredients and techniques called for in the original recipes. While this is a somewhat understandable concession to efficiency in most cases, it is nonetheless regrettable. High fructose corn syrup, coloring agents, and such culinary gems as sodium metabisulfite have no place in a truly great cocktail.


One sure way to afford these cocktails all their rightful glory is to make them yourself according to the original (or as close to it as can be ascertained) recipes. Let's take a look at the recipes behind a few popular classics.


The Mojito (recipe from The Craft of the Cocktail - Dale DeGroff)

2 tender sprigs of fresh mint

1 ounce Simple Syrup (1 part sugar, 1 part water, shaken together until the sugar dissolves)

¾ ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice

1 ½ ounces light rum

2 dashes Angostura bitters (optional)

Soda water


Muddle one mint sprig with the simple syrup and the lime juice in the bottom of the mixing-glass half of a Boston shaker. Add the rum and bitters, and shake with ice. Strain over cracked ice into a highball glass. Top with soda and the remaining sprig of mint.


LC Notes:

-Creating a balanced Mojito can be deceptively challenging. Fresh mint and lime juice both possess prominent, distinctive flavor profiles.
The sweetness of the simple syrup is required in order for the other elements to coexist peacefully, but it can be easily overdone. The bitters can add a welcome depth and complexity to the drink, but it must be applied with prudent restraint. And of course, the better the rum, the better the cocktail.

-There is no need to pulverize the mint during the muddling process. A firm bruising of the leaves is sufficient to extract the essential oils from the mint leaves.



The Margarita (recipe from Tommy's Mexican Restaurant, San Francisco)

2 ounces 100% blue agave tequila

1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice

1 ounce agave syrup


Combine the ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake well and strain into a chilled cocktail glass or over ice in a rocks glass. Salting the rim of the glass is optional.


LC Notes

-As it is the most popular cocktail in America, there are countless opinions regarding the construction of the perfect Margarita. Since I'm writing this piece, here's mine; Tommy's Mexican Restaurant in San Francisco houses a world-class tequila bar and is widely considered to serve one of America's best margaritas. I've used this recipe many times with consistently terrific results. It is the essence of simplicity, and lets the rich complexity of 100% blue agave tequila shine through. Agave syrup is available at organic food stores and is naturally lower in carbs than sugar. Its flavor profile marries perfectly with 100% blue agave tequila (both are derived from the same part of the plant) and the combination is perfectly complemented by fresh lime juice.

-I tend to favor the use of reposado tequila over blanco in this recipe, but whichever suits your tastes is the correct choice for you.
If the mood strikes, I may add a touch of Grand Marnier to my Margarita for added depth and richness.

-I prefer to enjoy this cocktail with an unsalted rim, as the intensity of coarse salt buries the delicate freshness of the cocktail on my palate, but again that's just me. Experiment with both. If you're making Margaritas for a group, try salting half the rim, thus leaving the decision in the hands of your guests. Do your best to apply the salt only to the outside rim of the glass. This will keep salt from falling into the cocktail, thereby altering its flavor balance. I also like to garnish my Margaritas by topping them with a pinch of fresh grated lime zest delivered via a Microplane.



The Martini (recipe from The Joy of Mixology - Gary Regan)

2 ½ ounces Gin or Vodka

½ ounce Dry Vermouth

1 pitted olive or lemon twist, for garnish


Add ingredients to an ice-filled mixing glass. Stir for 30 seconds.
Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Add garnish.


LC Notes

-Many liberties have been taken regarding the use of the term 'martini'. Nearly all the drinks served in these glasses are technically just 'cocktails', except of course an actual Martini. Yet a great many of these concoctions have had the word 'martini', or the inescapable '(fill in the blank)-tini', incorporated into their names.
At the end of the day, it's your booze and your glass. Call it whatever makes you happy. The purpose of this discourse, however, is to attempt to shed light on the true Martini. The Martini is a descendent of the Martinez cocktail, which evolved from the Manhattan.
Early print versions of the Martinez (which was made with sweet
vermouth) described it as a Manhattan with gin instead of whiskey. Dry Martinis first began to appear in the early 1900s. Vodka wasn't a prominent force in the American cocktail culture until the mid-20th Century, and the idea of shaking a Martini and adding vodka to the mix can be attributed, of course, to James Bond.

-In my own humble opinion, a Martini is made with 4 to 5 parts gin to
1 part dry vermouth, it is stirred thoroughly (not shaken) and served up in a chilled cocktail glass (a.k.a. 'martini glass'), and it is garnished with a single pitted olive. Gins vary fairly widely in flavor. Some are sweeter than others, some display prominent citrus notes, and some are more noticeably juniper-influenced, offering distinct, cooling 'pine-y' notes. Experiment with several gins to find your preferred flavor profile. Or use vodka, and shake your Martini to pieces if you like. After all, it's your drink.



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Dan

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Aug 12, 2009, 4:39:16 PM8/12/09
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Thanks for the input, Marty!
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