Libation Conversation - Aviation Cocktail

[Dan]

Libation Conversation – Aviation Cocktail

The Aviation Cocktail. The name possesses many of the qualities I love
in a good cocktail moniker. It says everything and nothing at the same
time. It provides intrigue and fuel for the imagination. It conjures
images in the head of goggles, silk scarves and wing walking. It
creates its own set of expectations that can’t be confirmed or refuted
until one ventures out of one’s comfort zone and into the vast
unknown. Looking further into the cocktail itself, more mystery and
intrigue awaits. What is the actual recipe? What are its origins? What
the heck is Crème Yvette?

While it may not be a staple on cocktail menus locally, The Aviation
has been used very effectively in other parts of the country to lure
cocktail consumers into the realm of “classic cocktails”, those
cocktails whose origins can be traced to a period from the first
appearance of the “cocktail” in 1806 to the beginning of Prohibition
in 1920. The Aviation qualifies, but it is a relatively late entrant
into the classic cocktail field, having first seen the light of day in
Hugo Ensslin’s 1916 publication, Recipes For Mixed Drinks.

As is typical with classic cocktails, the original Aviation evolved
into a number of differing Aviation recipes as well as other
descendant cocktails including the Blue Moon. Ensslin’s original
recipe called for Gin, Maraschino Liqueur, Crème Yvette and lemon
juice. As we’ve done in previous columns, let’s look at the elements
of this wonderful cocktail, beginning as many worthwhile endeavors
begin, with Gin.

GIN: Even a cursory look at the universe of classic cocktails reveals
that Gin is found at the heart of a significant number of these
revered old drinks. Its complexity and depth of character form the
perfect backdrop for a wide array of complementary flavor additions.
But Gin is hardly a homogenous category of spirits. Significant
differences exist between one Gin and another, and an understanding of
these differences (and of your tastes and preferences) is critical
when deciding which Gin is going to grace your next classic cocktail
adventure. All Gins are influenced to some degree by the Juniper
berry, which is used to flavor the spirit and lends Gin its
distinctive “pineyness”. Some Gins are relatively sweet with more
pronounced citrus and subtler Juniper notes, while others are drier
with a pronounced Juniper presence and hints of Coriander. Some Dutch-
style Genevers (Gin’s earliest form) have an intriguing maltiness to
them. Finding a Gin with a flavor profile that lines up with one’s
personal tastes & preferences can be a time-consuming process, but in
the end your enjoyment of Gin cocktails will be greatly enhanced. And
it’s a lot more fun than determining your favorite brand of dental
floss.

MARASCHINO LIQUEUR: If you’ve read previous Libation Conversation
columns, you are probably at least familiar with Maraschino Liqueur,
even if you have not had the pleasure of tasting it for yourself. If
this is your first Libation Conversation, allow me to welcome you and
to shed a little light on Maraschino Liqueur. This liqueur bears no
resemblance to the neon goo that bar cherries float in. Invented by
Girolamo Luxardo in 1821 and still produced today according to his
original formula, Maraschino liqueur is distilled from Marasca
cherries and aged in Ash vats. Maraschino liqueur possesses
fascinating depth and a unique, delicate floral note. It is somewhat
difficult to come by but well worth the search. It is also the
critical ingredient in the original Corpse Reviver, which was also
examined in a previous Conversation.

CRÈME YVETTE: This element of the original Aviation has the highest
potential to confound. Crème Yvette was a proprietary version
(produced by Charles Jacquin et Cie until being discontinued in the
1960s) of Crème de Violette. Crème de Violette is a liqueur whose
flavor and color are derived from a maceration of violets in un-aged
grape brandy. Crème de Violette is also somewhat difficult to find,
but it too is well worth the search. Rumor has it that Jacquin may be
reviving Crème Yvette liqueur, so stay tuned. It has been suggested
that Marie Brizard Parfait d’Amour, yet another elusive-but-worthy-of-
search liqueur, can be substituted for Crème de Violette. While this
certainly violates no laws or international treaties with which I am
familiar, the two products are not interchangeable from a flavor
perspective.

LEMON JUICE: Use the real thing. Classic cocktails are no place for
substitutes, especially when it comes to fruit juices. Cocktail mixes,
lime juice cordials, and “juices” that hide out in plastic replicas of
actual fruits are for the most part, loaded with artificial
ingredients and sweeteners that can guide your cocktail to a dark and
foreboding place. Perhaps even more offensive is the idea that through
the use of cocktail mixes you, the eventual consumer of your cocktail
creations, have been robbed of the ability to determine for yourself
the balance between the sweet and acidic elements of your carefully
crafted libation. Insufferable!

THE COCKTAIL: As was mentioned, there are a number of recipes out
there for the Aviation Cocktail. While most seem to agree at least on
the elements of Gin, Maraschino Liqueur and fresh lemon juice, the
proportions of each are apparently of some dispute. The five cocktail
recipe books I checked each had a slightly different recipe. In fact,
only two of them even mention Crème de Violette. How could this
critical ingredient become such an afterthought? It turns out that one
of the most revered publications in the history of cocktails, The
Savoy Cocktail Book (1930), published a recipe for the Aviation that
omitted the Crème de Violette. For many years, this was taken to be
the original recipe, and it wasn’t until the original was discovered
some years later that Crème de Violette was once again afforded its
place in the cocktail. The fact that Crème de Violette is still
difficult to find leads to its being regularly slighted in today’s
Aviation recipes. Nevertheless, the enjoyment of a true Aviation is
impossible without it. After all, the name Aviation itself refers to
the sky-blue tint that Crème de Violette gives the drink.

THE RECIPE:

Aviation Cocktail (From DrinkBoy Robert Hess)

2 oz Gin
1/2 oz lemon juice
1/2 oz Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur
1/4 oz Crème de Violette
Combine all ingredients in an ice-filled shaker
Shake & Strain into a chilled cocktail glass


Aviation Cocktail (The Original - From Hugo Ensslin’s Recipes For
Mixed Drinks, 1916)
1/3 Lemon Juice
2/3 El Bart Gin
2 dashes Maraschino
2 dashes Creme de Violette
Shake well in a mixing glass with cracked ice, strain and serve