0 Infill 3d Print

[Jannet Nevels]

Iwas wondering if it is possible to print only the infill, without outer walls or a shell? I cannot find it in the cura settings. I have tried setting the 0, but that doesn't work. Any tips or ideas? Or does anybody know whether this is even possible?

Thanks, I imported that profile. When I slice your model I get this which doesn't have any explicit lines between the ends of the infill but it is doing non-retract moves (dark blue) so you are probably getting stringing:

And that's what you see when you use the file menu in the menu bar? That looks to me more like what you get when you press the save to file button down in the bottom right corner? Anyway, doesn't matter because I loaded your profile.

This is an infill with paths that cross each other within one layer. It creates cubes oriented with one corner facing down. This way it makes numerous air pockets that might serve as heat insulation, or cause the object to float on water (with waterproof filaments such as PETG). Print time and filament consumption does not differ from the previous infills.

The Adaptive cubic infill works on the same principle as cubic. It consists of cubes oriented corner-down where lines cross themselves in one layer. Unlike simple cubic infill, this infill gets automatically more or less dense, depending on the distance to the nearest wall, leaving large cavities in the middle. This is especially useful for large prints with a big internal volume. The print will have denser infill at the top, bottom and around all sides, but it will have lower density near the center of the volume. The result is shorter print time and lower filament consumption while maintaining great support for top layers and similar mechanical properties. Material consumption is approx. 1/4 less than the rectilinear infill.

The Adaptive Cubic infill works by refining those cells of an octree, that contain any object triangle. Anchors are added to each infill line. This makes the infill sturdier and it stabilizes the extrusion flow at the start of an infill line.

This type of infill is the only one recommended for 100% infill printing. If you have another type of infill set in your profile and change the infill percentage to 100% density, PrusaSlicer will automatically change the infill type to rectilinear.

Due to the way this infill is printed, the paths cross and cause the material to accumulate in these spots. You may hear a specific noise as the nozzle hits these parts. This may even lead to a failed print.

The Stars infill is based on triangles but paths are shifted to make six-pointed stars. Again, this infill is created by lines that cross each other within a single layer. Material and time consumption is similar to the previous infill.

The concentric infill traces the model perimeter lines and makes them smaller towards the center. In other words: if you print a cylinder, the concentric infill will create concentric circles inside that cylinder. This can be useful with transparent parts or flexible models (RC tires for example). The main disadvantage is the time spent printing. Material consumption is not higher than previous types of infill patterns.

This infill prints a grid made of hexagons. Its main advantage is mechanical resistance and optimal paths without crossings. The main disadvantages are higher material consumption (approx. 25% more) compared to other infills, and print time that can take up to twice the time of previously described options.

Again, this spiral-twisted infill allows easier filling with liquid. This simple shape saves material and time (compared to the rectilinear infill). Similar to the concentric infill, the Archimedean chords help with model flexibility if you print it with flexible filament.

The lightning infill generates a branching structure that gets progressively denser towards the top surfaces to support them reliably. It saves even more material compared to the Support cubic infill. The lightning infill is based on paper and ported from Cura, our thanks go to the Cura team for keeping it open-source.

The "monotonic" infill is essentially a rectilinear infill with modified path planning. The infill lines are extruded left to right monotonically, a line is never extruded to the left of an already extruded infill line. This strikingly simple strategy leads to a homogenous texture without ugly ridges. Ridges are often created when the left-to-right extrusions meet with right-to-left extrusions in the center of an infill area, while printing left to right only leads to a homogenous shine.

This infill pattern works similarly to the rectilinear infill but the last layers on all top surfaces are aligned in the same direction. This can help for creating a homogenous top layer pattern for models that have top layers in different heights (imagine a staircase model).

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We've been having a problem with our Ultimaker 2. The print quality in general seems very good, but the infill is very bad. We've found by setting the flow-rate much higher (as much as 140%) we can mitigate the problem somewhat, but it negatively affects the rest of the print.

We've tried many things already to fix this. I've used the "atomic method" to clean the nozzle; I've opened up the entire print head and cleaned it out (soaked it in acetone over the weekend). We've checked the feeder and Bowden tube.

The latest version of Cura gives you the option to copy the settings when you switch over from "quickprint" to "full settings". When I do this, the infill speed for example is set as 80mm/s. The print speed is 50mm/s (for normal quality). This reduction does not seem big enough to make such a huge impact, but it is worth a try.

After playing around a bit more over the weekend, I have a funny suspicion that the feeder stepper motor is skipping or something (motor problem, not with filament slipping or similar), or perhaps the nozzle has been damaged. I've already ordered a replacement nozzle.

Thanks for the suggestion. We usually left the print settings on the 20% defaults. The reason we switched to 25% is precisely because the algorithm works differently from thereon onwards. Be it as it may, both algorithms used to work flawlessly, and we could set the infill rate based on our requirements for structural strength, not to force a specific algorithm.

Perhaps I should also try other slicers (it just always seem like such a schlep to get them working for the Ultimaker), as you suggest the algorithm could make such a huge difference - will keep you updated.

80mm/sec for infill and 50mm/sec for walls is a bad idea. It has only been the default for a year or so and often these new settings end up going back to the old settings after a year or two of complaints.

Most likely your printer can't extrude as fast as it used to be able to due to a very thin layer of gunk in your nozzle. You can burn that gunk out or soak it in acetone over night. Or your white teflon isolator may have softened after lots of printing and now squeezes the filament causing much resistance.

The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

If you hear the feeder stepper skip back (make that sound) then the pressure is too high. That happens around 10 pounds (5kg) of force which is rather extreme. You shouldn't need that kind of force but that would be completely expected at 80mm/sec .2mm layer height 210C nozzle temp.

Setting them to 0 means that the standard speed setting will be used. So if you print with 50mm/s then infill would be printed at the same speed (which is not entirely true because acceleration and deceleration change the speed).

Hi @thinusp the other thing to realise when you have differing speeds across the layer, is that every time you change the speed you change the pressure in the extruder and this takes a bit of time to stabilise and as a result can deposit artefacts on the surface which is another reason for sticking to one speed normally. Sure if have a large plinth under your model then printing the infill at 30mm/s is boring and can be case for pushing up the infill speed. If that is going to cause problems with the actual model then there are ways of modifying the speeds as you go along the z-axis.

Start printing. Adjust temp and speed and look carefully at gaps between each line - if there's a gap you are printing too fast (minor underextrusion). Keep notes. Within an hour you have a nice table of temperature versus speed. Print at half the max speeds. or at least significantly slower.

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