We are Growing! Thanks, guys! + Some Questions...
Dan Davis
interest, and I hope we will all be rewarded with a valuable resource
for advice & help in doing our conversions.
After having a look at some of the photos that Jim Niekamp has posted
at his Photobucket site, I realize even more that, while a picture has
a thousand words, It also inspires a few hundred questions!! There is
obviously some serious work involved in this job.
Some questions I have now:
1. Are there template drawings of the areas on the Renault chassis
that must be modified to accept the drivetrain cradle? I see the tape
measure at work, but I'd like to know what is being mapped out with
those measurements.
2. Looks like brackets have been fabricated for various mounts -
steering, cradle, etc. What are the dimensions of these?
3. Have all the features of the GM system been brought over? ABS
brakes? Airbags? Those would be great additions, IMHO.
If anyone has electronic files of the dimensions or other info, please
upload it to the Files & Photos department.
Photos will need to be "worked over" to keep our use quota in order,
but I want our pictures to really illustrate the steps involved.
If anyone has full size, high res photos of the conversion that they
would like to send to me, please do so. I'd like to eventually add
text info directly to the photos to make some of the finer points more
clear.
Now, I'm going to take the front nose off my Phasar!!
Thanks again for all the encouragement and participation.
Dan - Seattle
jniekamp
Good to see there are more folks joining us here.
Some guys who have done the conversion have installed the ABS brakes,
I myself hate them with a passion, therefore I did not go with them.
The air bags could be used if one wants, but in the case of my donor
both air bags were deployed so I deleted them from the system.
The wiring can be as easy or as hard as you want to make it. The first
thing I done was got rid of all the wiring that dealt with the power
windows, security, keyless entry, lock and things of this nature. I
think there is about a 100 miles of wires you can ditch and be out of
your way. The next thing I done was located the wires for the lights,
brake light, backup light, fuel pump and sending unit and so forth, I
took these wires and used wire markers and made a print of what wire
did what. The GM BIG book will also tell you what is what. Also
remember that you will use none of the original Lesharo wiring except
for the heater fan wiring harness and also you need to keep the blue
wire from the overhead A/C and that will be used to turn on and off
electric fans and also to the A/C pump clutch.
Now don't get confused with the engine and the coach wiring. You will
not touch any of the coach wiring.
Also keep in mind that we are transplanting the wiper motor, cruise
control, steering column and instrument gauge cluster. This will make
everything "Plug-N-Play" and lessand less is left from the Renault
design.
You can change over the rear axel too, to GM discs brakes or leave
them Renault. I left my Renault for the time being and made wheel
adapters from the Renault drums to the GM wheels, eventually I will
make the complete change over to GM discs. However if you do decided
to go with ABS brakes, you will have to make the switch now to GM for
the ABS system needs to read the tachometer or speed sensor off of
each wheel.
I used the original Le'Sharo master cylinder and proportional valve.
The GM only has single pistons on the front calipers, where the
Le'Sharo has dual pistons, therefore I disposed of the extra brake
line to each of the front calipers.
The gas tank will need to be modified to accept the GM pump and
sending unit. I have a easy to follow write up along with pictures to
show how I done mine. Also if you want to, you may use the in-line
Bosh fuel pump, it does have the required fuel pump pressure to run
the 3800 engine. I didn't, but I do have it in line in case the GM
fuel pump in the tanks quits. I am using the Bosh pump for a fuel
transfer pump from the rear tank (aux. generator tank) to the main
tank. I carry everything needed to make a 5 minute switch on the road,
just in case. You will find the tank is rather a pain in the ass to
get in and out, and would be next to impossible out on the road. Some
have even made an access cover inside the coach to gain access to the
fuel pump, in that event.
As far as actually mounting the GM cradle in the Le'Sharo, Larry has a
fixture, but it can be done very easily by taking careful measurements
on places of the frame of the Le'Sharo. This is to you will be able to
get the wheels tracking straight and keep everything "centered" in the
frame. I took pictures and dimensions and made prints of the old
engine before I took it out and I never used them. I used rectangular
tubing that was welded to the frame of the Le'Sharo and then the
cradle bolted onto it. I used 3/16" wall X 2" by 4" tubing. The two
rear mounts were 12" long and the front was 48" long. The put the
Le'Sharo up just like it was when the 2.2 engine was in. I also made
the front cross member tube removable if in the event I ever need to
take the cradle/engine back out. (this cross member is also what I
used to mount the radiator, condenser and electric fans too) Unbolt
the rear mounting bolts and the front cross member, disconnect the
struts and brake lines and unplug the wires and the engine will pull
straight forward.
Then we have the struts (yes you need to use your original struts from
the Le'Sharo) I machined brackets that fit in the Le'Sharo struts and
then that allowed me to be able to bolt everything on. Some guys have
welded the brackets onto the Struts which works fine too.
You will most likely need to rotate the rack and pinion 20 degree
forward (towards the front of the engine) to allow connecting up the
steering column to the pinion shaft. I milled cold roll wedges and
welded them onto my cradle and then the other end of the rack is
mounted in rubber and the rack rolled in the mount. If you rotate it
to far it will cause interference with the transmission shifting lever
and the linkage won't operate.
I used my donor's radiator, condenser and recovery tank too. I did
purchase a transmission cooler and a transmission temp. gauge, so I
could keep an eye on the trans. temp. this transmission is almost
bullet proof, but you still don't want to get them to hot. My
transmission runs between 160 and 200 degrees on the very hottest day
and the engine runs a steady 195 degrees, no matter the ambient temp.
is, even if the A/C is on, it stays the same.
I think you will find that so much of this conversion is fabricated
and designed as you go and of course there is never ever anything set
in stone from one design to another.
What I have said here is how I done mine, that doesn't make the best
by any means. I have seen some other very very nice GM conversions and
everyone has his own way or idea as to why they done something the way
they did.