Taking photos for lenticular 3d photography

[djb...@gmail.com]

Hi Giovanni.

I am wondering how to determine how far along a slider I need to take photos.

I have Dp Lenticular 3D-50LPI Lenstar with a viewing angle of 41 degrees and also Viewthru 3D 60 with a 27 degree viewing angle.

Is there a correlation between these viewing angles, the distance to the subject and 'toe-in' I should use when taking the photos and the number of photos I should take?

In some of my nicer tests the camera doesn't travel further than 20cm along the slider. It seems that if I use fewer photos rather than more over the same camera travel on the slider, I seem to get a slightly nicer result.

Is it best not to toe-in the camera? I've read that it's better not to do this but I have had success with the toe-in method. I've read that it can lead to unwelcome distortions.

And finally which software is best for aligning the photo sequence to create the zero parallax point. I'm using After Effects to stabilise my point currently but is there a better software for this purpose?

Cheers.

David

[Giovanni Remigi]

Hi all, I've been a bit absent from the forum recently. A lot of things going on currently in my life, all positive ones.

My rule of thumb is to take all pictures within the viewing angle of the lens. If you have a lens with 41 degrees, place the camera at a comfortable distance and take pictures from -20.5 and +20.5 degrees. Same for 27 degrees, takes pictures from -13.5 and +13.5 degrees.

If you are not sure or you are undecided about the lens that you are going to use, then take the pictures using a maximum viewing angle e.g 50 degrees. You can always throw away pictures later, but you can never create new ones, at least at the extremes.

How many pictures do I take within this given angle of view? My suggestion is to take a picture every 1 degree. If you need more pictures, you can use Twixtor + After Effect later in post-production. This of course is valid if you don't have too many transparencies or too many occlusions. Some pictures with a lot of repeating details are untreatable by Twixtor, in such cases, I take closer pictures. In this example, I took a picture every 0.3 degrees: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jsw3JytM5MY

All my pictures are taken toe-in, but I fix the key distortion in post-production. I saw many pictures where the distortion is not fixed: this is a perfectly valid artistic option. We see distortion due to camera lenses in most 2D pictures, but we usually consider them as part of the artistic approach.

For aligning the pictures I use After Effect or Photoshop.

Regards,

Giovanni

[9999artsgroup]

Giovanni,

Greeting from Cambodia....

Wow fantastic lite bulb photo the prints must be beautiful.....!

Nice letter about taking 3D photos..I'm sorry I haven't ordered your software, I had people that were going to fund it in return for teaching their son but the kid changed his mind...

I will buy it at some point, for sure......

I have a question

What do you use to correct the key distortion with toe in ........

What kind of device do you use to shoot something this small with toe in....

Giovanni

if you get a chance check out the photo-illusion software the interlacer is quite bad in my opinion but there are many things I like about the software

in terms of image creation

especially coming out of a backround that includes a great deal of design and motion graphic design...

Maybe you will get some ideas for other features ...or maybe these type of features are not a road you want to go down...

Up to you!

Keep up the fantastic work!

Max

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[Giovanni Remigi]

Hi Max,

To remove the keystone distortion I use some commands available in ImageMagick. I wrote some Unix scripts which are not too user-friendly for the general public.

convert $INPUT1 -matte +distort Perspective "296,461 0,0 325,4721 0,5184 2978,693 3456,0 3016,4446 3456,5184" $OUTPUT1

convert $INPUT2   -matte +distort Perspective "306,554 0,0 328,4421 0,5184 2906,687 3456,0 2922,4280 3456,5184" $OUTPUT2

convert $INPUT3  -matte +distort Perspective "353,639 0,0 325,4582 0,5184 3118,675 3456,0 3116,4584 3456,5184" $OUTPUT3

convert $INPUT4  -matte +distort Perspective "349,641 0,0 309,4616 0,5184 3210,549 3456,0 3192,4778 3456,5184" $OUTPUT4

convert $INPUT5  -matte +distort Perspective "300,683 0,0 263,4641 0,5184 3130,471 3456,0 3111,4921 3456,5184" $OUTPUT5

When I take a photoshoot, I usually take a picture of a rectangle and use it as a reference for later. I think you can do the same in After Effect but I haven't tried.

For Macro I don't correct the keystone distortion. People never see insects so close and they cannot detect distortions, or they are more acceptable.

In relation to PhotoIllusion, I do not plan to add any sort of layering feature in Lentigram. This functionality can be fully achieved with Blender (https://www.blender.org/) which is 100% free and gives you more than you ever need once you've learned it. Following are some simple examples of designs in Blender.

And here is a more complex design with Blender.

The final result is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W526wI_Q6jY

Take care,

Giovanni